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94 Accord torque converter in and out



 
 
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  #11  
Old November 23rd 04, 08:31 PM
Sean Dinh
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TC lockup doesn't work until the car warms up.

Gregg Gruen wrote:

> Thanks to everyone for all the good info. I did the fluid change this
> weekend with the Honda ATF, and I've already noticed an improvement in
> the 1-2 shift. The outgoing fluid was fairly clean. It didn't smell
> burnt. There was a thin layer of particles on the drain plug, much
> less so this time than the first time I changed it. (bought the car
> at about 133k, first change was directly after that. Nearly 140k
> now.)
>
> One thing I noticed today when I took it out on the highway was that
> darn TC again. This time it wouldn't engage at all. I drove for
> about two miles at about 68mph on flat highway and it wouldn't engage.
> I got off, turned around and tried it again and it seemed to work ok.
> I'm beginning to suspect something, but I don't know what. I've read
> some about the TC solenoid, and I've found two on the transmission. I
> might do a bit more research on those to see if I can determine
> whether one might be sticking.
>
> Thanks again,
> Gregg


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  #12  
Old December 12th 04, 06:33 PM
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I have a similar problem, but in cold weather. I'm certain my
thermostat isn't closing all the way. When the temperature is below 45
the engine doesn't warm up enough for the LTC to engage.

Also, the LTC engaging and disengaging was bugging me shortly after I
purchased the car and was able to fix the problem by adjusting a cable
that runs from the throttle to the transmission by the radiator. It
should be tightened so the slack is taken out of the cable with the
throttle closed, but no more. Play around with it a bit and you'll
probably get what you want.

  #13  
Old December 23rd 04, 09:26 PM
spigot
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It turns out the problem was temperature related.

I did some digging on this newsgroup and spent a few days thinking
about it, and decided that it might be temperature related considering
I noticed the problem the most on a really cold day. I did a little
experimenting doing about 70mph down the highway with the temp control.
On hot (heater core valve open) the TC unlocked every time. If I
flipped it to cold (valve closed) it would usually lock up within 1-2
miles. I did this 5 or 6 times to confirm, and in every case it did
exactly the same thing.

I bought and installed a new thermostat from a dealer, and the problem
seems to have gone away. I've done one road test so far with excellent
results. If anything, it locks up better than ever. The old
thermostat looked different; I couldn't tell if it was aftermarket or
not. Both were 78C thermostats. I know the last owner had most
everything done at a local mechanic, so it's probably safe to assume it
was an aftermarket part.



wrote:
> I have a similar problem, but in cold weather. I'm certain my
> thermostat isn't closing all the way. When the temperature is below

45
> the engine doesn't warm up enough for the LTC to engage.
>
> Also, the LTC engaging and disengaging was bugging me shortly after I
> purchased the car and was able to fix the problem by adjusting a

cable
> that runs from the throttle to the transmission by the radiator. It
> should be tightened so the slack is taken out of the cable with the
> throttle closed, but no more. Play around with it a bit and you'll
> probably get what you want.


  #14  
Old June 2nd 15, 03:57 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
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Posts: 1
Default 94 Accord torque converter in and out

On Saturday, November 20, 2004 at 10:41:44 AM UTC-6, Net-Doctor wrote:
> "motsco_ _" <"motsco_ > wrote in message
> ...
> > Gregg Gruen wrote:
> > > My 1994 Accord seems to do something strange at highway speeds. It
> > > seems that the torque converter is locking up and unlocking
> > > repeatedly. I try to maintain a very steady speed, but I'll feel it
> > > unlock and watch the tach jump up ~250 RPM, then watch it drop it back
> > > down again. This will happen on flat road, but very much more so on a
> > > slight (and I mean slight) incline. If I use cruise control, the
> > > problem it's so bad, but still present. It seems like it's more
> > > sensitive than it should be. It'll just as much as every 5-8 seconds,
> > > especially if the road isn't perfectly flat.
> > >
> > > Otherwise, the trans seems to shift fine. Shifts a little rough,
> > > especially when it's cold, but nothing to really complain about too
> > > much. I did a trans fluid change, but I didn't use Honda fluid
> > > (changing again this weekend w/ Honda fluid after what I've read about
> > > that).
> > >
> > > Can anyone give me a recommended adjustment I can make? Could it be a
> > > bad TC solenoid? Or is this just a standard Honda auto trans? It's
> > > the first one I've owned.
> > >
> > > About 140k miles, no check engine light.
> > >
> > > Also, I've noticed two distinctive clunks when I put the car in drive
> > > from park, especially when it's cold. It's almost as if it's a
> > > two-part shift process. There's a slight delay between the two.
> > >
> > > I'm trying to take it easy on the car. I just bought it, and I'm
> > > afraid of any trans problems coming up already.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Gregg

> > --------------------
> >
> > The non-Honda fluid explains everything you described, probably.
> > Especially the really solid shifts. The short delay is famous on
> > Odyssey, but might get better after drain-n-fill. You'll have to do a
> > second drain-n-fill later, and be sure to do both of them when tranny is
> > warmed up, so you get a higher % of the crud into suspension. Let it
> > drain several minutes, then, if you want to be thorough, start the
> > engine for ten seconds and 'pump' out the converter by putting it into
> > reverse / D4. You'll get almost another quart out.
> >
> > Some won't agree with that last part. . . . 'Curly'
> >
> > P.S. Always mention your mileage :-(

>
> Disclaimer: Much of the information I pass on is speculation, based on my
> experience with Honda transmissions. My experience includes 8 years building
> and rebuilding Honda torque convertors, 6 years of
> building/analyzing/rebuilding Honda automatic transmissions, and 10 years as
> owner of Honda Accords(currently 5). Please use this information for
> reference only.
>
> Hi Gregg:
> I also have a '94 Accord that my daughter drives and I have had that
> same hesitation at initial takeoff for over 100,000 miles. It's annoying and
> unsettling, but I don't expect it's gonna get any worse. I have always used
> genuine Honda ATF, and kept it changed at about 33k miles. No other
> transmission troubles, and that car is approaching 175 k miles.
>
> I don't believe the two symptoms are related. The trouble with your
> lockup function is probably electrical; either PCM or external solenoid. I
> don't remember which solenoid(s) control lockup on that model year, (later
> models use a shift solenoid and linear solenoid to control lockup function)
> and I'm not advocating that you start swapping them out. It seems to me that
> the T/C shifting in and out of lockup wouldn't be caused by defect in the
> T/C though. If the friction disk on the lockup piston were worn the slippage
> would probably be so subtle that you wouldn't see it a s a shift in and out
> of lockup. If it were worn badly you would probably experience a jerk when
> lockup was achieved, but once locked it would stay locked until electrically
> shifted out again.
>
> If you really have concerns about gunk in your fluid, strain it through
> a paint strainer after you drain it. Chances are you would find any
> significant solids in it, especially if you are changing it regularly(30~35k
> miles). Also, check it for a burnt smell; that might indicate that something
> has been excessively hot. If you do find much in the way of particles, then
> you might as well plan ahead for a transmission swap in the distant future.
>
> I wonder if it's worth the effort to completely drain your ATF. The
> solids in the ATF have to be awfully small to pass through the strainer, so
> I wouldn't expect very much to be suspended in the oil. You have at least
> two magnets in there to collect ferrous material(one inside and one in the
> drain plug), a strainer with media that has about a 50 micron mesh(I think),
> and numerous screens in the hydraulic path to capture potentially
> troublesome particles in the oil. Changing the ATF isn't going to remove or
> even disturb these trapped particles anyway. Much of the fluid that does not
> drain is kept in the torque convertor, and the T/C check valve is what keeps
> it in. That fluid has not settled in the T/C; oil flow through the T/C is
> very aggressive and there is no settling going on in there. It even has
> centrifugal filtering built in so it captures solids as it turns.
> I find it hard to support the recommendation to run your
> engine/transmission when you have the drain plug open. ATF is lube oil as
> well as hydraulic fluid, and if your running your transmission through gear
> ranges with no fluid you have clutches(probably 1st, potentially all)
> running dry, gears meshing(oil pump, idle gears, drive gears) and bearings
> (shafts, case bearings)turning without the lubrication that was engineered
> in. Inside the torque convertor there are bearings(on stator assembly) and a
> friction disk(lockup clutch) as well.
> The question is how long can they run while dry, (or at least while not
> immersed in ATF), before damage results, and I do not have that answer. I
> suggest that if you are going to run the transmission without ATF in it, do
> not do it for any length of time beyond what Curly recommends. With all due
> respect to Curly; he may very well have experiences that I don't.
> Doc
> PS: Use genuine Honda ATF. These transmissions were designed around it's
> use.


hello name is dale, i have a 94 honda accord and its having some transmission problems (recently replaced with salvage tranny) but when i start it up it shifts just fine and i can go (forward or reverse) but after about 3 minutes (once it warms up a little it drops its self out of gear (false natural) ive change filter (someone told me may be it) but i also found it could be torque converter or pressure solenoid..... i would just like your input sense you seem to have alot of experience with hondas.... thank you for your time.
  #15  
Old October 24th 15, 11:55 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
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Default 94 Accord torque converter in and out

I know this is an old thread, but I just noticed it. My 1991 Accord (recently sold) started erratic lock-up behavior at around 300k miles. It was worse in the winter. After doing a series of 4or 5 ATF drain-and-fills over almost 2 years, using the Valvoline "high mileage" Dex/Merc fluid from Advance Auto, the transmission gradually returned to normal and stayed that way for several years until I sold it this year at 416k miles. - Joe
 




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