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#11
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76 problem - advice requested.
On Jul 16, 9:58*am, " > wrote:
> On Jul 10, 9:04*pm, "Dad" > wrote: > > > > > "PDDeen" > wrote in message > > .... > > On Jul 10, 9:06 am, "Dad" > wrote: > > > > "PDDeen" > wrote in message > > > .... > > > That many miles has in the past caused the fuel pump pushrod to wear > > > and cause the type noise you are hearing. Try getting something > > > (golf > > > club, hose, whatever) on the fuel pump and you will probably hear > > > the > > > slap, knock of the rod. Not too hard to repair nor too expensive. > > > There is a bolt in the front of the block that can be removed that > > > normally holds nothing but, if you screw a longer bolt just snug it > > > holds the rod in place while you remove and then to replace the > > > pump. > > > Before the bolt hole was cast into the block it was a real pain to > > > do. > > > Get a new rod, gaskets for pump and mounting plate and some gasket > > > cement and go for it. > > > > Good luck > > > PDDeen > > > > Now there's a good one I forgot, been with the electric fuel pumps > > > to > > > long.http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala...vy_fuel_pump.s... > > > Good picture direction although it looks like an old front mounted > > > SBC > > > so the hole to retain it wasn't/couldn't be used. A new fuel pump > > > and > > > rod may be in order at this age, yours will have a bigger canister. > > > Also the hose should be replaced. Fitting wrenches are a must. Both > > > the fuel pump and the rod fromhttps://www.rockauto.com/canbeless > > > than $50. > > > Good example of not knowing what all the bolts on an engine are for. > > The '64 Impala would have the bolt I referred to as well as the 305 > > small block. The only one I can not remember seeing it on was a '56 > > Vette and it may have been because of the engine mount plate.All of > > the later mechanical pump engines should have the bolt. It is around > > the corner to the front of the block and looks like it has a large > > flat washer on it. As I remember it is't a flat washer but is a fiber > > washer. Bolt is @ 1/2" and I used a 1" tightened finger tight only. I > > just needs to hold the bolt during assembly. > > > YMMV > > > Paul > > > That's what intrigued me about the pictures in the repair site. As far > > as I know the only front mount SBC was '55, '56, and '57. The Impala > > didn't exist then. Strange pictures with the wood frame and all. I > > never had to use that bolt to retain the push rod but only changed 4 > > or 5, the last being on a '73 Chevy van while on vacation. > > Sorry it took me awhile to find time to get to it, but .... > > Well, well, well - here's the skinny! > > I disconnected all the belts and fired it up and it makes normal > noises for a 35 year old engine! > > I hooked them up one by one and the noise was still gone. However, > more closely examining everything, the head of the bottom mounting > bolt for the power steering pump has snapped off. That allows some > degree of movement and hence the clanking noises I hear I think. > > Trying to remove it, it is in a different position so does not seem to > wiggle. I fired it up and sure enough - the noise seems to have gone > away. > > Now to effect a permanent fix, I need to see if that bottom bolt > screws into the mount assembly somehow or whether it can be punched > out. Looks like I may have to disconnect and remove the power steering > pump. > > If I can do that and the noise has disappeared for good, I am a happy > camper, but I will not know until I get there I guess..... Good grief - it never rains but it pours..... The bolt slides thru the steering pump body it seems, but there is a spacer nut on the back - too thin to get a wrench on and it is holding the power steering pump to the bracket. If I try to spin it out, it locks the bracket tighter to the pump body. I have the alternator and steering brackets off, but I cannot get the damned thing loose. If it were loose I could spin the bolt thru and replace it. And of course the head is snapped off so I cannot just break it loose. The power steering hoses are frozen to the assembly under the car so it will be really tough to try to get all that loose and remove it all.. What to do? (Be gentle - I am no expert and admit it) ....... | | PS Pump| ===|[]======= <- Bolt thru pump body | | | | Nut holding bolt on (frozen to it) Power steering Bracket |
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#12
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76 problem - advice requested.
> wrote in message news:666ad6d3-c327-40e4-b9cb- > Wish could post pics on these groups - would make it much easier..... Use this site to make a pic with a link. http://www.pixentral.com/ -W |
#13
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76 problem - advice requested.
"Clams Canino" > wrote in message m... > > > wrote in message news:666ad6d3-c327-40e4-b9cb- > >> Wish could post pics on these groups - would make it much easier..... > > Use this site to make a pic with a link. > > http://www.pixentral.com/ And then link the pic here. Like so........ Ex: This is what your rear ed could look like someday.. http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?pi...cxqN4iNNthz87c |
#14
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76 problem - advice requested.
Thanks - maybe this will make things more clear...
http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?pi...jc6PvADsiopuw1 |
#15
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76 problem - advice requested.
And the answer is! .....
It looks like The 63-74 pump had a hole thru the pump and a long bolt like in your drawing you posted earlier. the 75-82 had a short bolt in front and a stud in back. Both pumps will fit in the same bracket. The stud on the back side of the pump does have a thin nut on it. The thin nut is part of the stud so it is not going to unscrew. If you look closely that bracket hole next to the thin nut is slotted. That slot is so the pump can slide out of the bracket without removing the stud with the small nut. But you do have to unbolt the bracket from the engine to get the pump out of the bracket. Are you sure the bolt in front is broken? It could be just missing. This is what the stud in back looks like: http://tinyurl.com/3ad5btr =========== Well - Jim - thank you very much! I dug around today and it took me awhile to get it, but it was a bolt missing! I had to take it out of the bracket to make sure it would thread and you have to get it *just so* to start properly, but my car is running again without sounding like a run away garburetor. Best of all, old Betsy lives to ride another day! I was pretty leery the way it sounded with the banging - it really did sound like a major engine issue.... Many thanks to you and others who so freely share their expertise with folks like me who, while not exactly mechanically challenged, certainly don't have the experience base others do. Thanks again everyone!!!! (Now to see why the carb secondaries do not seem to be operating and a tune up, and some front end parts to tighten up the steering, and... and... and ....) |
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