What options exist for getting duplicate automobile remotes?

On 1 Aug 2018 20:57:28 GMT, "Retired wrote:

>> Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
>> 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES
>>
>> Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
>> http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
>>
>> It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
>> (I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)
>>
>> Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?
>>
>
> Here is one: http://www.keylessride.com/

That's VERY NICE and useful!
Do we have TWO choices as shown here?
<http://www.keylessride.com/order/chooseremote.asp?make=Mitsubishi&remoteyear=2004&m odel=Lancer>

Certainly the original http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
Looks like the second one here...
http://www.keylessride.com/order/quo...&frid=47286EA4

$105 remote plus programming
PROGRAMMING
Price INCLUDES programming instructions and all required programming tools
for training the vehicle to recognize the remote.

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 2 Aug 2018 05:36:27 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder > wrote:

>On 1 Aug 2018 20:57:28 GMT, "Retired wrote:
>
>>> Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
>>> 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES
>>>
>>> Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
>>> http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
>>>
>>> It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
>>> (I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)
>>>
>>> Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?
>>>
>>
>> Here is one: http://www.keylessride.com/
>
>That's VERY NICE and useful!
>Do we have TWO choices as shown here?
><http://www.keylessride.com/order/chooseremote.asp?make=Mitsubishi&remoteyear=2004&m odel=Lancer>
>
>Certainly the original http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
>Looks like the second one here...
>http://www.keylessride.com/order/quo...&frid=47286EA4
>
>$105 remote plus programming
>PROGRAMMING
>Price INCLUDES programming instructions and all required programming tools
>for training the vehicle to recognize the remote.

You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
about $10. Insturctions are online for free.

You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.


I got keys the same way, for even less money.

And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them

On 3 Aug 2018 00:57:29 GMT, micky wrote:

> You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
> programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
> about $10. Insturctions are online for free.
>
> You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
> was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
> adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.
>
>
> I got keys the same way, for even less money.
>
> And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them

Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor
thread (for obvious reasons of triage) but where this information is
useful.

One question.

How do they prevent theft?

That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?

NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
process.

On 8/3/2018 4:42 AM, Arlen Holder wrote:


> How do they prevent theft?
>
> That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?
>
> NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
> process.
>

Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new
one programmed.
Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.

My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys
inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the
VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us
and did work for the company.

On 3 Aug 2018 06:06:23 GMT, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

> Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new
> one programmed.
> Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.
>
> My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys
> inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the
> VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us
> and did work for the company.

Thanks. I'm not trying to steal a car, but it seems, from Clare's nice
instructions, that all you need to do is buy the fob and get a hold of one
of the other fobs, and you can make keys.

Of course, all the fobs will be no good, so if you did it without the
knowledge of the owner, the owner's own key fobs would stop working.

But, according to what Clare sent, you don't need anything but the fob and
the car and that's it.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 3 Aug 2018 08:42:12 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder > wrote:

>On 3 Aug 2018 00:57:29 GMT, micky wrote:
>
>> You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
>> programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
>> about $10. Insturctions are online for free.
>>
>> You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
>> was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
>> adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.
>>
>>
>> I got keys the same way, for even less money.
>>
>> And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them
>
>Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor

I havent' seen that thread, but I may have problems with my o2 sensor
also. I forget the codes I have but they both point to the o2 sensor.

Yet I get 30MPH on he highway and 26 in town, and it doesnt' overheat,
so I'm thinking there is no big rush to fix it. It does stumble a bit
when I'm stopped and start up again, unless I"m perfect with the gas
pedal.

>thread (for obvious reasons of triage) but where this information is
>useful.
>
>One question.
>
>How do they prevent theft?

The 02 sensor won't admit oxygen unless you have proof you own the car.

>That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?
>
>NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
>process.

For the key and the fob, online they will sell to anyone. It's sort of
like guns. But you need to have one or 2 fobs to make anotehr and 1 or
2 keys to make another key. I forget which it is but it's 1 for one and
2 for the other. Whatever Clare said.

So if you don't have that, I think you have to go to a locksmith (who is
still probalby cheaper than the dealer, though iirc not every locksmith
can do this.)

My used cars both came with 2 keys and 2 fobs, or more, and because I
knew I'd have trouble making more if I got down to one fob (or key, I
forget) I made a bunch more. I have 4 of each now, I think. Even
though I've only lost one key in 50+ years and that was a house key I
dropped into my car's trunk. I was out of town, getting home late, had
to call a friend and have him leave my house key outside my house.

And another time was tubing and changed clothes and had left the key in
the trunk. Had to ask some poor girl who probalby thought I really
liked her to take me home 10 miles and back to the car. That will
teach her to be talking to me when I see that the key is locked in.

On 3 Aug 2018 16:00:03 GMT, micky wrote:

>>Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor
>
> I havent' seen that thread, but I may have problems with my o2 sensor
> also. I forget the codes I have but they both point to the o2 sensor.

This is the thread...
Advice for stripped threads upstream oxygen sensor exhaust manifold
<https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.home.repair/mIcLF2bSnU8>

> Yet I get 30MPH on he highway and 26 in town, and it doesnt' overheat,
> so I'm thinking there is no big rush to fix it. It does stumble a bit
> when I'm stopped and start up again, unless I"m perfect with the gas
> pedal.

AFAIK, oxygen sensors generally get replaced when they fail, and that
usually precipitates one of two clues:
a. You get a related oxygen sensor code, or,
b. You can't set a related readiness monitor.

Usually, AFAIK, it's the upstream sensor.
You can test them, but, you can't really test them (it's one of those
things you just replace).

> For the key and the fob, online they will sell to anyone. It's sort of
> like guns. But you need to have one or 2 fobs to make anotehr and 1 or
> 2 keys to make another key. I forget which it is but it's 1 for one and
> 2 for the other. Whatever Clare said.

Yeah. What Clare said was
a. Gather all the fobs you can (in this case, that's one).
b. Program the handful you have
c. That negates the ones you don't have

Who knew it was that easy.
Now all I have to do is buy the fobs.

My first concern, since the trunk doesn't open with the key, is to buy the
fob that has a trunk button on it, if that will work and try it out.

I wonder if fobs can be programmed more than once?

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 4 Aug 2018 01:19:13 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder > wrote:

>
>My first concern, since the trunk doesn't open with the key, is to buy the
>fob that has a trunk button on it, if that will work and try it out.

I was looking for something else and I found this post, from a month
ago, so you probably won't see my answer, and if you do, I probaably
won't see yours. But my email address is good if you remove NONONO.

I too, with a 2005 Toyotal Solara had a problem that it only opened with
the fob or the lever on the floor.

Now I had 2 good fobs, but because it's a convertible, I had to disable
the lever on the floor. I guess the alarm would have gone off if they
climbed over the door or the back and opened the trunk, but the alarm
stops after a short time.

So if I'm out and the fob battery fails, no way to get into the trunk.

So I put in an electric switch, on the dash, that shoud have been there
in the first place. It wasn't that easy. Couuldn't find the wire --
well maybe I could see it but I couldn't reach it -- without removing
the left kickpanel and cutting into two different sheaths, looking for a
white wire. There were two of them so I had to test which one worked.
And I connected a push-button switch to that one and the cig lighter
that is hot when the ignition is on.

I'm really glad I did this.