general resto questions....outside in or inside out

Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to
do a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask
thee that have tread this path before.

Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.

Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one
project at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once
approach.

experience? suggestions?

Thanks people,

Jeff Davison

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 15:11:58 -0500, Jeffrey Davison
> wrote:

>Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to
>do a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask
>thee that have tread this path before.
>
>Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
>mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
>mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.
>
>Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one
>project at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once
>approach.
>
>experience? suggestions?
>
>Thanks people,
>
>Jeff Davison

First item on my list would be serious rust -- the structural kind.

I'd do the driveline, brakes, suspension next (weakest link first)
.....detail those areas as you go.
Then the body/paint, then the interior.
Detailed areas can be masked during the paint/body work.

I don't like to do those mechanical things around a expensive paint
job or fresh interior.

Enjoy..

DP
http://tinyurl.com/4fcsn

Always start with structual/ rust repair first. Being in the business since
1979 I have seen so many people spend thousands on paint and interior work,
the run out of money and then they have a car that won't pass state
inspections standards (some states still have them) One memorable incident
was a man with a 67 convertible spend over 6 k on paint and interior,
brought the car to me for insurance appraisal, told him the floor and inner
rockers were non existent. He left in a huff, stepped and the gas hit a pot
hole and the frame flexed so bad his windsheild came loose.

"Jeffrey Davison" > wrote in message
...
> Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to do
> a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask thee
> that have tread this path before.
>
> Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
> mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
> mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.
>
> Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one project
> at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once approach.
>
> experience? suggestions?
>
> Thanks people,
>
> Jeff Davison

Or the guy who bought one and when it arrived he parked it and in the
morning the frame had essentially split the car into a front half and
a rear half. Structural failure due to rust. And good luck tracking
down the seller.

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 13:27:08 GMT, "walt peifer"
> wrote:

>Always start with structual/ rust repair first. Being in the business since
>1979 I have seen so many people spend thousands on paint and interior work,
>the run out of money and then they have a car that won't pass state
>inspections standards (some states still have them) One memorable incident
>was a man with a 67 convertible spend over 6 k on paint and interior,
>brought the car to me for insurance appraisal, told him the floor and inner
>rockers were non existent. He left in a huff, stepped and the gas hit a pot
>hole and the frame flexed so bad his windsheild came loose.
>
>"Jeffrey Davison" > wrote in message
...
>> Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to do
>> a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask thee
>> that have tread this path before.
>>
>> Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
>> mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
>> mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.
>>
>> Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one project
>> at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once approach.
>>
>> experience? suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks people,
>>
>> Jeff Davison
>

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

"Jeffrey Davison" > wrote in message
...
> Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to
> do a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask
> thee that have tread this path before.
>
> Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
> mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
> mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.
>
> Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one
> project at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once
> approach.
>
> experience? suggestions?
>
> Thanks people,
>
> Jeff Davison

As others have said, you need to do the structural rust repair first. It
can be real tough to do this kind of work and keep the car a driver. Check
it out thoroughly and if there is serious rot in the rocker panels or the
cowl, I would consider changing to a total teardown restoration, OR find a
car in better shape.
BTW, I applaud your desire to do a "rolling restoration" . Driving your car
and seeing it get better in reasonable sized chunks is a good way to keep
your interest in the car.

The LAST thing you do is Interior.
2nd to last is Paint.

First thing is Brakes. You have to know the car is safe to drive. I would
include a full front suspension rebuild at the same time.
That means Upper/lower control arms bushings, ball joints, Tie rods,
swaybar bushings.
Rebuild Steering box, or a brand new one from Flaming River.
New Brakes through out, New Master cylinder, all new wheel cylinders,
upgrade to front Discs.
New set of Tires.
Now drive the car, Do you like how it handles? Does it make you grin from
ear to ear?
Yes? Great, move on to the next step, No? Sell it and think about a
different hobby car.

Next up is getting the engine compartment in good shape.
Check the engine compression and do a leak down test. If the motor checks
out healthy you are golden. If it needs rebuilding, you have to decide if
you want to keep the original motor or drop in a crate motor from Ford. The
crate is the cheapest way to get your car on the road, but I prefer to stay
with Vintage stuff.

Assuming the engine is in good health, tackle the cooling system.
New radiator, water pump, all new hoses.

Replace all the rubber gasoline lines, including the one from the tank to
the hard line.

Any area you tackle, replace or refurbish EVERY piece in the system. Don't
fix just what is broken, Get new everything. Ignore this, and you will get
to dig into each system multiple times.

After the engine it is bodywork and paint.

Good luck,

Erich

Thanks to all who have given advice. The car is totally rust free and
has no frame damage at all. It's just a bit old. It spent the last 10
years in a warehouse. It drives, steers, handles and brakes like a pig.

Car is a 289 2v with auto, the tag however says it's a 289 4v & 4sp.
a couple of owners ago the trans was swapped out. The clutch pedal is
still there but bolted to the floorboard. The seller of the car said the
last owner changed to a 2v and that he had the 4v manifold if I wanted.

I will be taking care of the steering, suspension and brakes first.
Then a 302/T5 swap. THEN bodywork (panels aren't absolutely straight -
but they are rust free)Paint and new glass and trim. I will attack the
interior the last.

Jeff Davison

Kathy and Erich Coiner wrote:
> "Jeffrey Davison" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to
>>do a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask
>>thee that have tread this path before.
>>
>>Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
>>mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
>>mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.
>>
>>Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one
>>project at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once
>>approach.
>>
>>experience? suggestions?
>>
>>Thanks people,
>>
>>Jeff Davison
>
>
> As others have said, you need to do the structural rust repair first. It
> can be real tough to do this kind of work and keep the car a driver. Check
> it out thoroughly and if there is serious rot in the rocker panels or the
> cowl, I would consider changing to a total teardown restoration, OR find a
> car in better shape.
> BTW, I applaud your desire to do a "rolling restoration" . Driving your car
> and seeing it get better in reasonable sized chunks is a good way to keep
> your interest in the car.
>
> The LAST thing you do is Interior.
> 2nd to last is Paint.
>
> First thing is Brakes. You have to know the car is safe to drive. I would
> include a full front suspension rebuild at the same time.
> That means Upper/lower control arms bushings, ball joints, Tie rods,
> swaybar bushings.
> Rebuild Steering box, or a brand new one from Flaming River.
> New Brakes through out, New Master cylinder, all new wheel cylinders,
> upgrade to front Discs.
> New set of Tires.
> Now drive the car, Do you like how it handles? Does it make you grin from
> ear to ear?
> Yes? Great, move on to the next step, No? Sell it and think about a
> different hobby car.
>
> Next up is getting the engine compartment in good shape.
> Check the engine compression and do a leak down test. If the motor checks
> out healthy you are golden. If it needs rebuilding, you have to decide if
> you want to keep the original motor or drop in a crate motor from Ford. The
> crate is the cheapest way to get your car on the road, but I prefer to stay
> with Vintage stuff.
>
> Assuming the engine is in good health, tackle the cooling system.
> New radiator, water pump, all new hoses.
>
> Replace all the rubber gasoline lines, including the one from the tank to
> the hard line.
>
> Any area you tackle, replace or refurbish EVERY piece in the system. Don't
> fix just what is broken, Get new everything. Ignore this, and you will get
> to dig into each system multiple times.
>
> After the engine it is bodywork and paint.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Erich
>
>

Oh Oh OH!!!!
I know!

Left to right!
*grin*

--
Kate
98 Cobra Drop Top
Please Lord, at the end, just one last ride... with the top down.



"Jeffrey Davison" > wrote in message
...
| Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to
| do a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask
| thee that have tread this path before.
|
| Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
| mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
| mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.
|
| Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one
| project at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once
| approach.
|
| experience? suggestions?
|
| Thanks people,
|
| Jeff Davison

Spike ????
Izzat YOU ???

You changed your nick?

wow.....
--
Kate
98 Cobra Drop Top
Please Lord, at the end, just one last ride... with the top down.



"Spike" > wrote in message
...
| Or the guy who bought one and when it arrived he parked it and in the
| morning the frame had essentially split the car into a front half and
| a rear half. Structural failure due to rust. And good luck tracking
| down the seller.
|
| On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 13:27:08 GMT, "walt peifer"
| > wrote:
|
| >Always start with structual/ rust repair first. Being in the business
since
| >1979 I have seen so many people spend thousands on paint and interior
work,
| >the run out of money and then they have a car that won't pass state
| >inspections standards (some states still have them) One memorable
incident
| >was a man with a 67 convertible spend over 6 k on paint and interior,
| >brought the car to me for insurance appraisal, told him the floor and
inner
| >rockers were non existent. He left in a huff, stepped and the gas hit a
pot
| >hole and the frame flexed so bad his windsheild came loose.
| >
| >"Jeffrey Davison" > wrote in message
| ...
| >> Just got my '66 fb and am now plotting and planning. I don't intend to
do
| >> a full frame off. One reason is very limited space availabilty. I ask
thee
| >> that have tread this path before.
| >>
| >> Is it better to do the body / interior first working to improve the
| >> mechanicals (susp, brakes, driveline) or is it better to do the
| >> mechanicals first then tackle the body and interior.
| >>
| >> Thcar is not a daily driver (yet), but I would like to tackle one
project
| >> at a time and keeper her a driver instead of the all at once approach.
| >>
| >> experience? suggestions?
| >>
| >> Thanks people,
| >>
| >> Jeff Davison
| >
|
| Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
| 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
| Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
| Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
| w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

; ) iz ME! pie yumpin' yimny butt crackie!

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:48:42 GMT, "SVTKate"
> wrote:

>Spike ????
>Izzat YOU ???
>
>You changed your nick?
>
>wow.....

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Ya shore, yew be lookin like de Spikie dat I know!

--
Kate
98 Cobra Drop Top
Please Lord, at the end, just one last ride... with the top down.



"Spike" > wrote in message
...
|; ) iz ME! pie yumpin' yimny butt crackie!
|
| On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:48:42 GMT, "SVTKate"
| > wrote:
|
| >Spike ????
| >Izzat YOU ???
| >
| >You changed your nick?
| >
| >wow.....
|
| Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
| 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
| Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
| Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
| w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16