this is what happens when you let a stoner service your car

wrote in
:

> A new idea for a tin foil hat, with a spark plug on it.
> cuhulin
>
>
Eliminate the problem and make him feel secure in one easy step.

On Aug 11, 4:44*am, APLer > wrote:
> wrote :
>
> > A new idea for a tin foil hat, with a spark plug on it.
> > cuhulin
>
> Eliminate the problem and make him feel secure in one easy step.

So if the guy watched him get high,,, why did he let him work on his
car?

" > wrote in
:

> On Aug 11, 4:44*am, APLer > wrote:
>> wrote
>>
> tv.net:
>>
>> > A new idea for a tin foil hat, with a spark plug on it.
>> > cuhulin
>>
>> Eliminate the problem and make him feel secure in one easy step.
>
> So if the guy watched him get high,,, why did he let him work on his
> car?
>
God only knows. I don't do youtube. Possibly rigged *for* youtube?


Sorry for yet *another* nymshift guys.


--
(setq (chuck nil) car(chuck) )

On Aug 10, 7:48*pm, jim beam > wrote:
> On 08/10/2010 03:57 PM, M.A. Stewart wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > jim beam ) writes:
> >> On 08/10/2010 02:04 AM, m6onz5a wrote:
> >>> On Aug 9, 9:19 pm, jim > * wrote:
> >>>> on the one hand, i should commend whoever did this for replacing the
> >>>> boot and not wastefully replacing the whole shaft. on the other, they
> >>>> shouldn't smoke too much weed while doing it.
>
> >>>>http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/4877171985/
>
> >>>> they forgot to remove the hose clamp. needless to say, the joint didn't
> >>>> last long.
>
> >>>> --
> >>>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>
> >>> If the boot was split before that stoner put a new one on it's still a
> >>> waste of time. The whole joint or axle needs replacing..
>
> >> once it starts making its clacking noise in turns, yes. *but if you
> >> catch it before then, and clean it properly [which isn't easy], you can
> >> indeed replace the boot and successfully repair the driveshaft.
>
> >> ideally though, you should replace the boot before it breaks - regular
> >> inspection allows you to see cracking and how serious it is before it
> >> breaks on the road and allows joint-killing grit to intrude.
>
> > Don't forget water and road salt.
>
> >>> What's a hose clamp doing there anyways????
>
> >> it's not supposed to remain there - it's to compress the retaining ring
> >> and hold it closed so you can reassemble the joint. *[then it's supposed
> >> to be removed!] *the retaining ring is sprung out and is too large to
> >> pop into place otherwise. *and the rzeppa joint carrier doesn't have
> >> ramps on it that would allow insertion without a ring compressor - an
> >> oversight in my opinion.
>
> > Was the clamp making noise?
>
> if you mean that notchy "clunk" each time it was getting caught in the
> joint, yes it was.
>
>
>
> >>http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122861/
> >>http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122865/
>
> > Those balls in the joint were junk, right? Or is it just the photo?
>
> > A couple of the balls looked like a black and white photo of the
> > planet Jupiter.
>
> junk. *that is a dead joint i cleaned up for the photo.
>
> it's a pet peeve of mine that people don't pay attention to joint boots
> and just keep driving them till the joint is unrepairable. *if you have
> the tools, which really aren't very expensive and which pay for
> themselves in just one use, boot replacement is quick, simple, and cheap
> on a shaft like this. *and a damned sight better than cheapo chinese
> aftermarket replacement shafts that last barely 30k before their soft
> poorly fitting innards start to tear themselves apart. *provided they're
> not gritted, the joints on oem honda driveshafts can last hundreds of
> thousands of miles - just keep an eye on the boots and replace those
> boots when they've started to crack. *correctly prepared, it takes an
> hour from wheel off to wheel back on.

I don't take the wheels off on VWs unless they are alloys and they are
such that you can't access the hub nut just by popping off a hub cap.

Of course, I haven't had to service a CV joint in ages. Last time I
had one go bad must have been around 2004-ish.

nate

"N8N" > wrote in message
...
On Aug 10, 7:48 pm, jim beam > wrote:

> I don't take the wheels off on VWs unless they are alloys and they are
> such that you can't access the hub nut just by popping off a hub cap.

That works on a VW because they bolt the front half shafts to a stub axle
coming out of the tranmsission. Most Japanese and US cars "plug" the half
shafts directly into the transmission. For these you can't get the axle out
of the transmisison unless you release the front upright from the lower
suspension arm so that you can get enough clearance to pull the axle out of
the transmission. You can't release the upright from the lower suspension
member unless you take off the wheel. I like the VW system better.

Ironically, the last time I had to replace a CV joint boot it was on a VW
and that was around 1995 (when my Sister sold her VW and bought a Honda).

Ed

On 08/13/2010 01:28 PM, N8N wrote:
> On Aug 10, 7:48�pm, jim > wrote:
>> On 08/10/2010 03:57 PM, M.A. Stewart wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> jim beam ) writes:
>>>> On 08/10/2010 02:04 AM, m6onz5a wrote:
>>>>> On Aug 9, 9:19 pm, jim > � wrote:
>>>>>> on the one hand, i should commend whoever did this for replacing the
>>>>>> boot and not wastefully replacing the whole shaft. on the other, they
>>>>>> shouldn't smoke too much weed while doing it.
>>
>>>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/4877171985/
>>
>>>>>> they forgot to remove the hose clamp. needless to say, the joint didn't
>>>>>> last long.
>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>>
>>>>> If the boot was split before that stoner put a new one on it's still a
>>>>> waste of time. The whole joint or axle needs replacing..
>>
>>>> once it starts making its clacking noise in turns, yes. �but if you
>>>> catch it before then, and clean it properly [which isn't easy], you can
>>>> indeed replace the boot and successfully repair the driveshaft.
>>
>>>> ideally though, you should replace the boot before it breaks - regular
>>>> inspection allows you to see cracking and how serious it is before it
>>>> breaks on the road and allows joint-killing grit to intrude.
>>
>>> Don't forget water and road salt.
>>
>>>>> What's a hose clamp doing there anyways????
>>
>>>> it's not supposed to remain there - it's to compress the retaining ring
>>>> and hold it closed so you can reassemble the joint. �[then it's supposed
>>>> to be removed!] �the retaining ring is sprung out and is too large to
>>>> pop into place otherwise. �and the rzeppa joint carrier doesn't have
>>>> ramps on it that would allow insertion without a ring compressor - an
>>>> oversight in my opinion.
>>
>>> Was the clamp making noise?
>>
>> if you mean that notchy "clunk" each time it was getting caught in the
>> joint, yes it was.
>>
>>
>>
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122861/
>>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/2500122865/
>>
>>> Those balls in the joint were junk, right? Or is it just the photo?
>>
>>> A couple of the balls looked like a black and white photo of the
>>> planet Jupiter.
>>
>> junk. �that is a dead joint i cleaned up for the photo.
>>
>> it's a pet peeve of mine that people don't pay attention to joint boots
>> and just keep driving them till the joint is unrepairable. �if you have
>> the tools, which really aren't very expensive and which pay for
>> themselves in just one use, boot replacement is quick, simple, and cheap
>> on a shaft like this. �and a damned sight better than cheapo chinese
>> aftermarket replacement shafts that last barely 30k before their soft
>> poorly fitting innards start to tear themselves apart. �provided they're
>> not gritted, the joints on oem honda driveshafts can last hundreds of
>> thousands of miles - just keep an eye on the boots and replace those
>> boots when they've started to crack. �correctly prepared, it takes an
>> hour from wheel off to wheel back on.
>
> I don't take the wheels off on VWs unless they are alloys and they are
> such that you can't access the hub nut just by popping off a hub cap.

if it's fwd, you don't need to take the wheels off. just set the
steering on lock, look at the now exposed boot, then reverse and check
the other side. couldn't be easier.


>
> Of course, I haven't had to service a CV joint in ages. Last time I
> had one go bad must have been around 2004-ish.

the whole point is that you shouldn't "wait for them to go". if you do
the boot when it's evidencing cracking, but before it tears, you don't
have to replace the joints. tools to do the job are cheaper than a new
cv joint, and boots are cheap too.


>
> nate
>


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

C. E. White wrote:
> > wrote in message
> ...
> On Aug 10, 7:48 pm, jim > wrote:
>
>> I don't take the wheels off on VWs unless they are alloys and they are
>> such that you can't access the hub nut just by popping off a hub cap.
>
> That works on a VW because they bolt the front half shafts to a stub axle
> coming out of the tranmsission. Most Japanese and US cars "plug" the half
> shafts directly into the transmission. For these you can't get the axle out
> of the transmisison unless you release the front upright from the lower
> suspension arm so that you can get enough clearance to pull the axle out of
> the transmission. You can't release the upright from the lower suspension
> member unless you take off the wheel. I like the VW system better.

You're welcome to the VW system with its internal star bolts that freeze
solid and strip the star wrenches. I'll take the Hondas every time. It
might take longer on a Honda than on a VW whose bolts have not yet
frozen but the Hondas can be *reliably* disassembled irrespective of age
and you won't need to replace any tools trying to do just one side.

(On the other hand, the VW brake proportioning system--at least on early
90's Jettas--is both breathtakingly simple and simply brilliant. Go
figure.)

<snip>