Mod list

I've narrowed my Mod list to this:

Kenny Bell Blowzilla charger
Ford Motorsport 4.10 gears
Borla Cat back exhaust
Pro 5.0 short throw shifter
Eibach sportline kit

My goal is to have approx 400-430 RWHP.

Any comments/suggestions (pos and neg) welcomed.

Jeff
01 GT
FIPK

it sounds like you will have one badass gt, and that kb will def get you
into your desired hp range

from what i have read, and this may or may not be true, but when you install
a roots blower and the torque is so greatly increased down low in the rpm
range, the 4.10 gears may be too deep? unless you have the right tire, wot
in first may be virtually unuseable. i cannot even hook with my factory
3.55's in my 04 cobra without low psi drag radials.

on the other hand alot of guys swear by 4.10's even on the 03/04 cobras, and
even i sometimes feel like the engine would be happier with a lower (higher
numerically) gear, for overall driving.

anyway best of luck with your mods

chris
1 of 72 2004 competition orange cobra convertibles


Jeff wrote in message ...
>I've narrowed my Mod list to this:
>
>Kenny Bell Blowzilla charger
>Ford Motorsport 4.10 gears
>Borla Cat back exhaust
>Pro 5.0 short throw shifter
>Eibach sportline kit
>
>My goal is to have approx 400-430 RWHP.
>
>Any comments/suggestions (pos and neg) welcomed.
>
>Jeff
>01 GT
>FIPK

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 21:19:19 +0000, Chris Shea wrote:

> it sounds like you will have one badass gt, and that kb will def get you
> into your desired hp range
>
> from what i have read, and this may or may not be true, but when you install
> a roots blower and the torque is so greatly increased down low in the rpm
> range, the 4.10 gears may be too deep? unless you have the right tire, wot
> in first may be virtually unuseable. i cannot even hook with my factory
> 3.55's in my 04 cobra without low psi drag radials.
>
> on the other hand alot of guys swear by 4.10's even on the 03/04 cobras, and
> even i sometimes feel like the engine would be happier with a lower (higher
> numerically) gear, for overall driving.
>
> anyway best of luck with your mods
>
> chris
> 1 of 72 2004 competition orange cobra convertibles
>

Funny you should mention that about the 4.10 gears and SC; somewhere I
came across that as well and honestly don't know. Something I'll
have to research more into before committing. I got decent tires IMO;
BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW but not for dragging, which is not my intent
(for now).

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/bfgap...forcetakdw.jsp

Jeff
01 GT
FIPK

This on a stock bottom end? What wheels and tires do you plan to run?
Are you planning any more rear suspension mods?

On an '01 Mustang GT with the stock bottom end and redline, plus
blower, especially a twin-screw, running on street tires, 4.10's are
going to eat up a ton of rubber. You'll need more work on the
suspension and wheels/tires to put that power down. 3.27's, maybe
3.55's are probably better, 3.73's max.

On the stock motor that kind of power is running just over the reliable
limit. The biggest issue is detonation against the hypereutectic
pistons and that amount of power is on the edge. Another issue is that
the twin-screw is going to make peak torque fast and down low. This is
harder on the bottom end than the kind of power production a
centrifugal makes. An intercooler will help and a safe tune is a must.
With a really good tune and proper care you can keep it going for a
long time but you've got to pay proper attention to it 'cause one
hiccup in the fuel supply and it will detonate hard. The downside to
the nice low end on such a blower is that this is true across the
entire power band, and tip in detonation is harder to hear .

Don't get me wrong, this is a great setup. And it will work. You just
gotta be prepared .

Remember, greed kills motors .

Dan wrote:
> This on a stock bottom end? What wheels and tires do you plan to run?
> Are you planning any more rear suspension mods?
>
> On an '01 Mustang GT with the stock bottom end and redline, plus
> blower, especially a twin-screw, running on street tires, 4.10's are
> going to eat up a ton of rubber. You'll need more work on the
> suspension and wheels/tires to put that power down. 3.27's, maybe
> 3.55's are probably better, 3.73's max.
>
> On the stock motor that kind of power is running just over the reliable
> limit. The biggest issue is detonation against the hypereutectic
> pistons and that amount of power is on the edge. Another issue is that
> the twin-screw is going to make peak torque fast and down low. This is
> harder on the bottom end than the kind of power production a
> centrifugal makes. An intercooler will help and a safe tune is a must.
> With a really good tune and proper care you can keep it going for a
> long time but you've got to pay proper attention to it 'cause one
> hiccup in the fuel supply and it will detonate hard. The downside to
> the nice low end on such a blower is that this is true across the
> entire power band, and tip in detonation is harder to hear .
>
> Don't get me wrong, this is a great setup. And it will work. You just
> gotta be prepared .
>
> Remember, greed kills motors .
>

The good thing about the Kenne Bell 4.6L kits are that they are well
thought out and come complete. It includes things like fuel rails,
injectors, BAP, chip etc. As long as the boost is kept to around 9-10
psi he should be fine. IMO, the time when allot of low end torque can
be a problem is when you're launching on slicks. Other than this, the
tires will just spin which relieves the stress on the drive line. Also,
the KB, and Roots, blowers don't require you to rev to 5k-6k rpm to get
into the meat of the powerband like a centrifugal. This is a plus
relative to engine wear and tear and increases the fun factor
exponentially.

Jeff wrote:
> I've narrowed my Mod list to this:
>
> Kenny Bell Blowzilla charger
> Ford Motorsport 4.10 gears
> Borla Cat back exhaust
> Pro 5.0 short throw shifter
> Eibach sportline kit
>
> My goal is to have approx 400-430 RWHP.
>
> Any comments/suggestions (pos and neg) welcomed.
>
> Jeff
> 01 GT
> FIPK

Forget about the gears. You won't need them with a twin screw blower.
In their place install a larger throttle body and a cold air intake.
Then to complete the list add a high flow, after market H-pipe. This
will get you around 430-440 rwhp/rwtq.

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 18:54:28 -0800, Dan wrote:

> This on a stock bottom end? What wheels and tires do you plan to run?
> Are you planning any more rear suspension mods?
>
> On an '01 Mustang GT with the stock bottom end and redline, plus
> blower, especially a twin-screw, running on street tires, 4.10's are
> going to eat up a ton of rubber. You'll need more work on the
> suspension and wheels/tires to put that power down. 3.27's, maybe
> 3.55's are probably better, 3.73's max.
>
> On the stock motor that kind of power is running just over the reliable
> limit. The biggest issue is detonation against the hypereutectic
> pistons and that amount of power is on the edge. Another issue is that
> the twin-screw is going to make peak torque fast and down low. This is
> harder on the bottom end than the kind of power production a
> centrifugal makes. An intercooler will help and a safe tune is a must.
> With a really good tune and proper care you can keep it going for a
> long time but you've got to pay proper attention to it 'cause one
> hiccup in the fuel supply and it will detonate hard. The downside to
> the nice low end on such a blower is that this is true across the
> entire power band, and tip in detonation is harder to hear .
>
> Don't get me wrong, this is a great setup. And it will work. You just
> gotta be prepared .
>
> Remember, greed kills motors .

I think dropping the 4.10's may be a good idea. I can always upgrade
the gears after I've had a chance to sample the KB if I'm not happy or
greed gets the better of me ;-). Initially I was looking at a major
upgrade in one shot, perhaps gradually building up makes more sense :-)

Running under 9 psi should be fine on my motor (crossing fingers). The kb
intercooler can be added to the existing model 1700, which is a plus.

Here is a quote from the KB site:

"Contrary to what you may have heard, the calibration/tune (chip) we
supply with our kits is dead accurate and repeatable from car to car. The
cars DO NOT vary as some would lead you to believe. It is the "other" mix
and match products that create the tuning or driveability issues. Then
there's those air fuel ratio meter variations. How can we be sure? We've
sold hundreds of 9 psi kits that perform flawlessly. We ask for and
receive feedback.We KNOW what causes problems with our kits."


What do I have to mod on the engine to allow more than 450HP? Crawling the
Mustang forums and Piston (heads?)/rods seem to be on the list.

I agree. I think 10 psi with an interooler is about the limit.

My reason for mentioning care with the low end with the TS/Roots type
blowers is that the problems that can occur with something like a
centri at the top end where boost is peaking occurs much sooner. I've
met a couple of '03 Cobra owners now that were tuned without this in
mind. Both popped motors at around 2.5k to 3k when the car tipped in
lean with full timing. Bad tunes for sure (one was a small upper on the
stock tune). Both never heard the detonation either but the motors
changed sound.

As for the suspension, I wasn't thinking specifically about beefing it
up to handle the power, although that's a Good Thing, but more along
the lines of thinking about how to actually make that power usable.
It's fabulous to have 400+ ft-lbs at 2500 rpms. But it's a pretty big
waste if you're only able to use half of it . All that's moot from
most rolling starts so take that for what it's worth .

Yeah, 9 psi should be OK with a good tune. However, while KB's got a
good reputation I wouldn't put my motor completely in their hands. If
you've got a local dyno get it on there and check the tune out where
the car lives. That line you've quoted is their marketing lads and
their tune may be consistent but I can garantee you it's different on
every car and different for every environment that the cars run in.
It's conservative and safe but it's always worth checking it out
yourself.

To get at or above 450 bhp *safely* you'll need pistons and rods. The
block is good and the crank will support quite a bit of power as long
as you don't spin it too much. I've seen a couple of 600+ rwhp 2V 4.6s
on the stock crank but they never spun over 6300 rpm. Most folks swap
out for a forged crank since they are in there for the pistons and rods
anyway, but it's not absolutely necessary for the 450+ bhp range.

Michael Johnson, PE wrote:


> The good thing about the Kenne Bell 4.6L kits are that they are well
> thought out and come complete. It includes things like fuel rails,
> injectors, BAP, chip etc. As long as the boost is kept to around 9-10
> psi he should be fine. IMO, the time when allot of low end torque can
> be a problem is when you're launching on slicks. Other than this, the
> tires will just spin which relieves the stress on the drive line. Also,
> the KB, and Roots, blowers don't require you to rev to 5k-6k rpm to get
> into the meat of the powerband like a centrifugal. This is a plus
> relative to engine wear and tear and increases the fun factor
> exponentially.

Hmmmm I'm not sure I understand that Michael, how does driving around
low RPMs, under boost, cause less wear and tear than NOT driving around
under boost. And I don't drive around town doing 5K RPMs either, but
it's there when I want it. I would like to drive my car with a KB on it
just to get a comparison, may be in the market for something else
someday and I know yours is a 5.0 so they drive a little differently.

p.s. If the fun factor was to go up exponentially I think my head would
explode :-)
--
Tropic Green Y2K 5 Speed Mustang GT
P-1SC & Some MM Stuff
http://tinyurl.com/5d6dy