Plastic vs. aluminum radiator

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> "Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
> .. .
> > "Earle Horton" > wrote in
> > om:
> >
> > > The radiator in my Jeep is rigidly mounted to the front grille, but
> > > the hoses are about two feet long each.
> > >
> > > Earle
> >
> > Radiators expand and contract with temp changes.
> >
> > and we ain't talking about Jeeps. 8-)
> >
> Everything in the car expands and contracts with temp changes. You can
> either install two foot long radiator hoses, or put up with a floppy
> radiator. ;^)
>
> Earle



The reason for "floppy" radiator installation is to minimize the effects
of torsional stress. All frames/bodies flex which ain't good for any
high pressure vessel...

JT

"Earle Horton" > wrote in
om:

> "Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
> .. .
>> "Earle Horton" > wrote in
>> om:
>>
>> > The radiator in my Jeep is rigidly mounted to the front grille, but
>> > the hoses are about two feet long each.
>> >
>> > Earle
>>
>> Radiators expand and contract with temp changes.
>>
>> and we ain't talking about Jeeps. 8-)
>>
> Everything in the car expands and contracts with temp changes. You can
> either install two foot long radiator hoses, or put up with a floppy
> radiator. ;^)
>
> Earle
>
>
>

The part you miss is that the radiator itself expands and contracts,and the
plastic tanks may not stay sealed to the aluminum core,nor is ordinary road
shock and vibration healthy for the plastic/metal seals.

Stick to Jeeps.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
.. .
> "Earle Horton" > wrote in
> om:
>
> > "Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
> > .. .
> >> "Earle Horton" > wrote in
> >> om:
> >>
> >> > The radiator in my Jeep is rigidly mounted to the front grille, but
> >> > the hoses are about two feet long each.
> >> >
> >> > Earle
> >>
> >> Radiators expand and contract with temp changes.
> >>
> >> and we ain't talking about Jeeps. 8-)
> >>
> > Everything in the car expands and contracts with temp changes. You can
> > either install two foot long radiator hoses, or put up with a floppy
> > radiator. ;^)
> >
> > Earle
> >
> >
> >
>
> The part you miss is that the radiator itself expands and contracts,
> and the plastic tanks may not stay sealed to the aluminum core,
> nor is ordinary road shock and vibration healthy for the plastic/metal
> seals.
>
> Stick to Jeeps.
>
The part that you miss is that the Jeep has a plastic tank radiator in it
too, and I haven't seen this happen. I didn't like the idea of a plastic
radiator twelve years ago when I bought the Jeep, but I am getting used to
it. The Civic I also have seems to be doing OK with a plastic radiator.
I used to see all metal radiators pop solder joints from heat, vibration,
who knows? Maybe the plastic ones are better.

Earle

"Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
.. .
>
> The part you miss is that the radiator itself expands and contracts,and
> the
> plastic tanks may not stay sealed to the aluminum core,nor is ordinary
> road
> shock and vibration healthy for the plastic/metal seals.
>
The only plastic tank radiator I've had apart was on our '85 Volvo. The
tanks were crimped on and sealed with big honkin' O rings. That tank failed
when the hot coolant from the upper radiator hose eroded through the
plastic - the Volvo gurus tell me that is the common way they fail. My
favorite radiator shop replaced the upper tank with a metal one made for a
Chevy radiator.

Mike

Michael Pardee wrote:
> "Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
> .. .
>> The part you miss is that the radiator itself expands and contracts,and
>> the
>> plastic tanks may not stay sealed to the aluminum core,nor is ordinary
>> road
>> shock and vibration healthy for the plastic/metal seals.
>>
> The only plastic tank radiator I've had apart was on our '85 Volvo. The
> tanks were crimped on and sealed with big honkin' O rings. That tank failed
> when the hot coolant from the upper radiator hose eroded through the
> plastic - the Volvo gurus tell me that is the common way they fail. My
> favorite radiator shop replaced the upper tank with a metal one made for a
> Chevy radiator.
>
> Mike
>
>
do they know about corrosion of dissimilar metals? unless the tank is
the same alloy as the rad, there's going to be trouble.

"jim beam" > wrote in message
t...
> Michael Pardee wrote:
> > "Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
> > .. .
> >> The part you miss is that the radiator itself expands and contracts,and
> >> the
> >> plastic tanks may not stay sealed to the aluminum core,nor is ordinary
> >> road
> >> shock and vibration healthy for the plastic/metal seals.
> >>
> > The only plastic tank radiator I've had apart was on our '85 Volvo. The
> > tanks were crimped on and sealed with big honkin' O rings. That tank
> > failed when the hot coolant from the upper radiator hose eroded
> > through the plastic - the Volvo gurus tell me that is the common
> > way they fail. My favorite radiator shop replaced the upper tank
> > with a metal one made for a Chevy radiator.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> do they know about corrosion of dissimilar metals? unless the tank is
> the same alloy as the rad, there's going to be trouble.

This will probably be all right if he follows a reasonable coolant change
schedule. There is a voltmeter test you can do too, to see whether
electrolytes are building up. Basically, that tells you whether it is too
late or not. ;^)

Earle

Earle Horton wrote:
> "jim beam" > wrote in message
> t...
>> Michael Pardee wrote:
>>> "Jim Yanik" > wrote in message
>>> .. .
>>>> The part you miss is that the radiator itself expands and contracts,and
>>>> the
>>>> plastic tanks may not stay sealed to the aluminum core,nor is ordinary
>>>> road
>>>> shock and vibration healthy for the plastic/metal seals.
>>>>
>>> The only plastic tank radiator I've had apart was on our '85 Volvo. The
>>> tanks were crimped on and sealed with big honkin' O rings. That tank
>>> failed when the hot coolant from the upper radiator hose eroded
>>> through the plastic - the Volvo gurus tell me that is the common
>>> way they fail. My favorite radiator shop replaced the upper tank
>>> with a metal one made for a Chevy radiator.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>> do they know about corrosion of dissimilar metals? unless the tank is
>> the same alloy as the rad, there's going to be trouble.
>
> This will probably be all right if he follows a reasonable coolant change
> schedule.

right, for stuff /inside/ the rad, but not the stuff outside!

> There is a voltmeter test you can do too, to see whether
> electrolytes are building up. Basically, that tells you whether it is too
> late or not. ;^)
>
> Earle
>
>