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Bolt Removal Problems
Update:
Unfastening the bolt connecting the rear lower control arm and trailing arm was as ugly as others in the archives reported. I never actually got it free from the bushing or its nut. I never tried a torch, but that would be my next suggestion. I eventually drilled and cut (by hand) the outside-most control arm bushing/bolt. Then I ground down the female bolt receptacle (it's not actually a nut, unfortunately, or I would have snapped it off, the way I did with the strut fork bolt) welded to the trailing arm. I used a cheap-o electric hand drill and grinding stone attachment. Grinding it down was no fun but at least I could see some kind of steady progress. Cobalt drill bits are essential but still very, very slow, even with the best cutting oil. I installed the "new" (= 8k miles used) control arm last night, attaching it with a separate nut at the trailing arm, as I think Eric and/or others suggested. The new strut and control arm did not fix the tilt, but I wasn't expecting it too. The ride seems a bit smoother, but I may have talked myself into this. I took apart the old strut in my suspension course today, borrowing the school's spring compressor. The shock absorber seemed in excellent shape at 157k miles old. The spring is a tougher call. I reckon I spent around $35 just on cutting tools for this job. About half the tools are broken or now severely worn. I'm worn, too! :-) I am contemplating doing the other side but not for another week or so. Meanwhile, the other side's bolts get sprayed with PB Blaster regularly. Not that I have much hope this will help. Moral of the story: The classic, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"? I dunno. I learned a lot: -) |
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