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Clutch advice



 
 
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  #11  
Old December 2nd 05, 01:07 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
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Default Clutch advice

Lanny Chambers > wrote in
:

> In article >,
> "DucMan" > wrote:
>
>> No, no leaking apparent. I assume this would be something I'd
>> see on the garage floor and not an internal leak.
>>
>> > Leaking rear main seal?

>
> I was thinking a small leak at the rear main seal might
> contaminate your clutch without a visible drip.


Isn't a leak from the transmission front seal much more likely to oil
the clutch?

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  #12  
Old December 2nd 05, 01:13 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
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Default Clutch advice

Thats a possibility that I'll check out this weekend. Going to do the new
clutch anyway, assuming it arrives tomorrow.

"XS11E" > wrote in message
...
> Lanny Chambers > wrote in
> :
>
>> In article >,
>> "DucMan" > wrote:
>>
>>> No, no leaking apparent. I assume this would be something I'd
>>> see on the garage floor and not an internal leak.
>>>
>>> > Leaking rear main seal?

>>
>> I was thinking a small leak at the rear main seal might
>> contaminate your clutch without a visible drip.

>
> Isn't a leak from the transmission front seal much more likely to oil
> the clutch?
>



  #13  
Old December 2nd 05, 01:21 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
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Default Clutch advice

"Lanny Chambers" > wrote
> Leaking rear main seal?


That was my thought when I read this. The rear (side?) main seal on my 1963
997 Mini-Cooper started leaking and would dump oil all over the clutch when
hot, but the clutch would work just fine when the oil was cold or just warm.
That rally in the Norfolk, Virginia area really pointed out the need for a
new clutch AND rear main seal as I attempted passing cars with engine revs
climbing but speed slowing.
--
Ken Lyons '97 Brilliant Black/'90 Classic Red
Inside the Beltway
[Remove the first two digits to reply]


  #14  
Old December 2nd 05, 05:46 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
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Default Clutch advice

In article >,
XS11E > wrote:

> > I was thinking a small leak at the rear main seal might
> > contaminate your clutch without a visible drip.

>
> Isn't a leak from the transmission front seal much more likely to oil
> the clutch?


Yeah, probably so. But Ithink the crank seal is a lot more likely to
leak in the first place than the tranny seal. Whatever. It's SOP to
replace both seals while it's apart, regardless.

--
Lanny Chambers
'94C, St. Louis
http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html
  #15  
Old December 2nd 05, 07:20 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
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Posts: n/a
Default Clutch advice

Lanny Chambers > wrote in
:

> In article >,
> XS11E > wrote:
>
>> > I was thinking a small leak at the rear main seal might
>> > contaminate your clutch without a visible drip.

>>
>> Isn't a leak from the transmission front seal much more likely to
>> oil the clutch?

>
> Yeah, probably so. But Ithink the crank seal is a lot more likely
> to leak in the first place than the tranny seal. Whatever. It's
> SOP to replace both seals while it's apart, regardless.


Maybe, on most cars (don't know about Miata) the flywheel needen't be
removed (unless it needs to be resurfaced), oil from the rear engine
seal will leak onto the flywheel and be thrown off as the flywheel
spins but oil from the front tranny seal will follow the input shaft
and right onto the clutch face.

Personally, I'd just replace the Miata with a white one, Leo says
they're faster* and he wouldn't kid us...... would he? ;-)

*Actually, the fastest Miata I know of is green....

http://www.diamondmotorsport.com/greenmiatas.htm

  #16  
Old December 2nd 05, 11:15 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
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Posts: n/a
Default Clutch advice

If the throwout bearing was lubricated correctly before it was installed on
the shaft, it will tend to sling any leaking tranny fluid out to the
bellhousing. A bad leak or a plugged bellhousing drain might allow tranny
fluid to drip onto the clutch, or build up until the flywheel and clutch
contacts a puddle of fluid. (I've not run across this on a Miata, but there
is always a first time.)

On the other hand, a Miata shop like R Speed in Atlanta would more likely
have run across all the possibilities.
..
"XS11E" > wrote in message
...
> Lanny Chambers > wrote in
> :
>
> > In article >,
> > XS11E > wrote:
> >
> >> > I was thinking a small leak at the rear main seal might
> >> > contaminate your clutch without a visible drip.
> >>
> >> Isn't a leak from the transmission front seal much more likely to
> >> oil the clutch?

> >
> > Yeah, probably so. But Ithink the crank seal is a lot more likely
> > to leak in the first place than the tranny seal. Whatever. It's
> > SOP to replace both seals while it's apart, regardless.

>
> Maybe, on most cars (don't know about Miata) the flywheel needen't be
> removed (unless it needs to be resurfaced), oil from the rear engine
> seal will leak onto the flywheel and be thrown off as the flywheel
> spins but oil from the front tranny seal will follow the input shaft
> and right onto the clutch face.
>
> Personally, I'd just replace the Miata with a white one, Leo says
> they're faster* and he wouldn't kid us...... would he? ;-)
>
> *Actually, the fastest Miata I know of is green....
>
> http://www.diamondmotorsport.com/greenmiatas.htm
>




  #17  
Old December 6th 05, 12:02 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Clutch advice

Well - I'm repainting the car pretty soon, so if it'll get me more speed
I'll go with white! :-)

> Personally, I'd just replace the Miata with a white one, Leo says
> they're faster* and he wouldn't kid us...... would he? ;-)
>



  #18  
Old December 28th 05, 05:07 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.mazda.miata
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Posts: n/a
Default Clutch advice


"Lanny Chambers" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Chris D'Agnolo" > wrote:
>
>> Would it be safe to assume that the more heavy duty clutch would be a
>> 'higher effort' / stiffer clutch? If so, that would be an improvement
>> IMHO

>
> There's a downside to stiffer clutches. They tend to wear the thrust
> bearing excessively when the engine is started with the clutch in,
> before the oil pressure comes up. The general advice for turbo owners,
> etc., with HD pressure plates is to disable the clutch interlock and
> start the car without pushing the pedal down. Once the oil pressure is
> up, the issue goes away.
>
> --

What has oil pressure got to do with load on the thrust bearing? The thrust
bearing is (in most cars at least) not supplied with oil from the engine.
Are you confusing the thrust bearing with the crank bearings?


 




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