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2000 Civic LX hard to start, no spark at all.



 
 
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  #11  
Old October 30th 04, 04:13 AM
SoCalMike
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k_teppo wrote:
>
> I agree with the response dold gave about the ignition switch.


were '00s in the recall as well? my '98 was.
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  #12  
Old October 31st 04, 01:54 AM
Net-Doctor
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/sarcasm on
Hmmmmm......
Why not divorce it, and send it my way, partner?
'Course....I don't know how well it'll deal with these Ohio winters, being a
South Florida car and all.....

I'd be glad to add it to my collection of 5 "crap" Honda Accords totaling
over 750,000 miles of confident ownership. I happen to love mine.

Sounds like you've rebuilt the thing with new parts already. Keep
trying......you could get lucky.

/sarcasm off
> So far I am convinced that Honda builds crap.
>
> The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and such about 5k ago.
>
> According to the ignition tests I've done, I do not seem to get a
> spark signal from the ECU. I guess it could be the crank angle sensor
> not telling the ECU to send a spark, or the ECU is crap. Maybe it is
> a rely, but my sevice book doesn't seem to delve into them very well.
>
> I hate this damn car. I married into it. Her next car will be a
> Mazda!



  #13  
Old October 31st 04, 07:15 AM
DC
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"SoCalMike" > wrote in message
news:QGxgd.544443
> wasnt the 2000 models the last of the previous generation? aka 96-00?


Oh yeah, forget what I wrote. I meant to say 2001 Civic (I bought mine in
2000, hence the confusion).

Aw $#@*, I just replaced my tires yesterday and told them I had a 2000
Civic, so they mounted the wrong tires on! OK, I have to make a new post
now.


  #14  
Old October 31st 04, 09:16 AM
Ricky Spartacus
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"Alan Russell" > wrote in message m...
> Well I did the testing on the ignition module that I found at:
> http://techauto.tripod.com/s.htm I was not getting a signal
>on the wire from the ECU to the ignitor. I traced the wire to
>the ECU and verified continuity. So the problem at this point,
>near as I could tell, was ECU or Crank Angle Sensor. So I
>went to the junkyard and got a replacement distributor. It cost
>$160. It made everything work, I think. That leads me to belive
>it was the CAS, but I can not find any way to test it other than
>to ohm it out (it ohms fine). Anyway, that's the way it is.


The Crank Angle Sensor generally sends out an AC signal. A
sensitive AC multimeter will do fine. To get a CEL (check engine)
code, you may need to crank of up to 18 seconds. Are you getting
a signal on the wire from the ECU to the ignitor on your new
distributor using that same testing device?

Rick




  #15  
Old October 31st 04, 06:12 PM
Alan Russell
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> The Crank Angle Sensor generally sends out an AC signal. A
> sensitive AC multimeter will do fine. To get a CEL (check engine)
> code, you may need to crank of up to 18 seconds. Are you getting
> a signal on the wire from the ECU to the ignitor on your new
> distributor using that same testing device?


Rick. Everything I read says the CAS is a hall effect, and requires
5v DC to work.. So that's how I tested it, not looking for AC.

I did no testing on the new stuff. Just swap distributors, and start
it up. It seems to work fine, so something in the dist. was hosed.
After resetting the timing it runs as well as it ever did.

I guess she has to keep it a while longer.

Alan
  #16  
Old November 2nd 04, 12:01 PM
Ricky Spartacus
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"Alan Russell" > wrote in message om...
> > The Crank Angle Sensor generally sends out an AC signal. A
> > sensitive AC multimeter will do fine. To get a CEL (check engine)
> > code, you may need to crank of up to 18 seconds. Are you getting
> > a signal on the wire from the ECU to the ignitor on your new
> > distributor using that same testing device?


> Rick. Everything I read says the CAS is a hall effect, and requires
> 5v DC to work.. So that's how I tested it, not looking for AC.
> I did no testing on the new stuff. Just swap distributors, and start
> it up. It seems to work fine, so something in the dist. was hosed.
> After resetting the timing it runs as well as it ever did.
> I guess she has to keep it a while longer.
> Alan


Thanks for the clarification regarding the CAS used in Hondas. I had
the variable relucntance crank sensor in mind. Testing these reliable hall
effect sensors is usually done by back-probe the 2 output 5v signals. The
switching should be a clean 5v on then 0.0v off.

Reason for asking is that if you're getting a signal from the ECU to the
igniter on the new distributor then I would assume a bad CAS or the
like. Since CAS are known to be reliable.

Rick








 




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