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#1
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Oil changes
I own an 2007 Saturn Aura XR with about 59,000 miles. I've had the
car since July of last year and so far I've put on about 23,000 miles. I drive on average of about 950 miles per week. I've only had the oil changed twice in the nearly 6 months that I've owned it. Both times that I've had it changed I've waited until the "oil life" reading on the DIC had decremented itself down to 0%. Today, when I was in for my most recent oil change, the oil change tech scolded me for not bringing in the car sooner. I specified that it had been nearly 11,000 miles since my last change but that the oil life reading had only very recently went all the way down to 0%. He told me that I can't use that as an indicator as to when the oil should be changed if I'm using standard oil. He said that I'd need to be using a premium type oil in order to go that long without a change. I double checked my owners manual and reread the portion that talked about oil changes. As I expected, the manual said that the car uses the onboard computer to determine when the oil needs to be changed. As well, the manual didn't say anything at all about only using high grade synthetic oils. My question is this - if I'm using regular grade 10w - 30 oil should I "trust" the car and only get my oil changed when the life meter decrements itself all the way down to, or near, 0% (even if this means that 10 or 11 thousand miles have passed since my last change) or should I religiously change my oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles as has been preached to us since time immeasurable. I think that the oil change tech was probably just regurgitating what he was told when he was hired - "tell everyone that has gone more then 3 months or 3,000 miles since their last change that this is a bad practice and that it should be done every 3 months or 3,000 regardless." Thanks for any help! |
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#2
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Oil changes
I regularly check my oil level. (after all, most saturn's consume some oil)
Don't just look at the level of the oil on the dipstick, look at the color too (and smell). When it is getting dark, it's probably worth changing. The change oil indicator is set by the ECU and is related to engine temperature, RPM and interval since last change. It is good but not infallible. "Shawn" > wrote in message ... > I own an 2007 Saturn Aura XR with about 59,000 miles. I've had the > car since July of last year and so far I've put on about 23,000 > miles. I drive on average of about 950 miles per week. I've only had > the oil changed twice in the nearly 6 months that I've owned it. Both > times that I've had it changed I've waited until the "oil life" > reading on the DIC had decremented itself down to 0%. Today, when I > was in for my most recent oil change, the oil change tech scolded me > for not bringing in the car sooner. I specified that it had been > nearly 11,000 miles since my last change but that the oil life reading > had only very recently went all the way down to 0%. He told me that I > can't use that as an indicator as to when the oil should be changed if > I'm using standard oil. He said that I'd need to be using a premium > type oil in order to go that long without a change. I double checked > my owners manual and reread the portion that talked about oil > changes. As I expected, the manual said that the car uses the onboard > computer to determine when the oil needs to be changed. As well, the > manual didn't say anything at all about only using high grade > synthetic oils. My question is this - if I'm using regular grade 10w > - 30 oil should I "trust" the car and only get my oil changed when the > life meter decrements itself all the way down to, or near, 0% (even if > this means that 10 or 11 thousand miles have passed since my last > change) or should I religiously change my oil every 3 months or 3,000 > miles as has been preached to us since time immeasurable. I think > that the oil change tech was probably just regurgitating what he was > told when he was hired - "tell everyone that has gone more then 3 > months or 3,000 miles since their last change that this is a bad > practice and that it should be done every 3 months or 3,000 > regardless." Thanks for any help! |
#3
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Oil changes
Shawn,
Remember, the mechanic has a goal of you changing your oil more frequently. A biased opinion indeed. I just don't like when a shop gets aggressive at pushing an oil change or other maintenance when I have to take it in for a state inspection. A simple "No thanks" falls on deaf ears. I had an oil change done in December as my state inspection was due. I usually do my own oil change, but thought I was going to have the inspection shop do it as it was too cold and miserable outside to do it myself. They charged $40.00 for the oil change. The last time I had any shop do an oil change was about 15 years ago and it was $25.00. chuck On 1/22/2010 3:49 PM, Shawn wrote: > I own an 2007 Saturn Aura XR with about 59,000 miles. I've had the > car since July of last year and so far I've put on about 23,000 > miles. I drive on average of about 950 miles per week. I've only had > the oil changed twice in the nearly 6 months that I've owned it. Both > times that I've had it changed I've waited until the "oil life" > reading on the DIC had decremented itself down to 0%. Today, when I > was in for my most recent oil change, the oil change tech scolded me > for not bringing in the car sooner. I specified that it had been > nearly 11,000 miles since my last change but that the oil life reading > had only very recently went all the way down to 0%. He told me that I > can't use that as an indicator as to when the oil should be changed if > I'm using standard oil. He said that I'd need to be using a premium > type oil in order to go that long without a change. I double checked > my owners manual and reread the portion that talked about oil > changes. As I expected, the manual said that the car uses the onboard > computer to determine when the oil needs to be changed. As well, the > manual didn't say anything at all about only using high grade > synthetic oils. My question is this - if I'm using regular grade 10w > - 30 oil should I "trust" the car and only get my oil changed when the > life meter decrements itself all the way down to, or near, 0% (even if > this means that 10 or 11 thousand miles have passed since my last > change) or should I religiously change my oil every 3 months or 3,000 > miles as has been preached to us since time immeasurable. I think > that the oil change tech was probably just regurgitating what he was > told when he was hired - "tell everyone that has gone more then 3 > months or 3,000 miles since their last change that this is a bad > practice and that it should be done every 3 months or 3,000 > regardless." Thanks for any help! |
#5
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Oil changes
Thanks to all that provided an informative reply!
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#6
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Oil changes
"Shawn" > wrote in message ... >I own an 2007 Saturn Aura XR with about 59,000 miles. I've had the > car since July of last year and so far I've put on about 23,000 > miles. I drive on average of about 950 miles per week. I've only had > the oil changed twice in the nearly 6 months that I've owned it. Both > times that I've had it changed I've waited until the "oil life" > reading on the DIC had decremented itself down to 0%. Today, when I > was in for my most recent oil change, the oil change tech scolded me > for not bringing in the car sooner. I specified that it had been > nearly 11,000 miles since my last change but that the oil life reading > had only very recently went all the way down to 0%. He told me that I > can't use that as an indicator as to when the oil should be changed if > I'm using standard oil. He said that I'd need to be using a premium > type oil in order to go that long without a change. I double checked > my owners manual and reread the portion that talked about oil > changes. As I expected, the manual said that the car uses the onboard > computer to determine when the oil needs to be changed. As well, the > manual didn't say anything at all about only using high grade > synthetic oils. My question is this - if I'm using regular grade 10w > - 30 oil should I "trust" the car and only get my oil changed when the > life meter decrements itself all the way down to, or near, 0% (even if > this means that 10 or 11 thousand miles have passed since my last > change) or should I religiously change my oil every 3 months or 3,000 > miles as has been preached to us since time immeasurable. I think > that the oil change tech was probably just regurgitating what he was > told when he was hired - "tell everyone that has gone more then 3 > months or 3,000 miles since their last change that this is a bad > practice and that it should be done every 3 months or 3,000 > regardless." Thanks for any help! If your computer is wrong, it will not be paying for your repairs! IMHO, Modern oils are better than older formulations. Modern metallurgy and manufacturing processes and tolerances are better and more consistent than in the past, QC is also better. Most modern machinery IS MUCH BETTER and is capable of a far longer service life. Oil does NOT wear out. But- IMHO, The problem with extending oil change intervals is that the still not worn out? oil will contain high amounts of suspended wear particles as well as chemical impurities that are both harmful to operating and non operating machinery. IMHO the use of expensive premium or synthetic oils makes virtually no difference to the oil contamination levels, and their use is not reason enough to extend drain intervals. IMHO, Synthetic is superior but can be justified only in very cold (artic) use, but that usage also probably qualifies as severe and would also require reduced drain intervals. Oil change intervals are a management problem. Too soon or too long are both inefficient and uneconomic as well as both increasing environmental harm. After break-in, I experimented with extending the drain intervals on my then new S1 series to the recommended maximum of 10,000km (6000mi) but was not happy with either the look of the drained oil or the lab analysis or the burnoff rate which was much higher after about the 6000km (3600mi) mark. I adopted a 6000km drain interval for the first 250,000km then shortened that to the current 5000km (3000mi) interval. Others S series experience and opinion is that the timing chain tensioner is the first part that will gum up and fail from old dirty oil. Keeping this part functioning properly will save MUCH more in repair costs than any savings from extended drain intervals. IMHO economic management suggests that the best time to change oil is when the engine is down to the add mark as a full change only costs 3 ltrs (and a filter) more than a simple add. If you are really frugal you could change the filter every second change, but I prefer to change both at the same time for lots of reasons. I now have 340,000km on the car and get ~1800km to the first ltr oil add, then ~1600km to the second ltr add. It will normally be down to the third add mark after ~1200 more and at that point I think it is a good time to just drain and refill with clean. Once you have the few simple tools and some experience, changing oil is simple and a LOT quicker AND much cheaper than getting poor quality bulk oil and filters from a change $hop. It also gives me a chance to do a good visual inspection for leaks or other problems. I have learned to change the filter OK but have never found a good way to solve the oil spill from the filter problem and just place a rag on the frame under the axle. I use ramps made from 2 thicknesses of 2x8 nailed together and bevelled at the front edge, (I suspect a bigger guy would need three thicknesses). I purchase my filters by the dozen or more whenever I can negotiate a good price from a parts jobber. I use only top quality filters (currently Wix, never Fram). I have tried most quality oils but my current year round favorite is Wally's Super Tech in 5w30, I buy several cases whenever the price is right. I refill ltr size containers from the large 4ltr jugs and carry 2 in the car so I can add when only down a little bit and try to run near the full mark all the time. One ltr fits beside the brake master cylinder and the second on the right lower side of the rad. I think that frequent oil changes are the easiest and cheapest way of minimizing repair co$t$ and of maximizing service life. The only thing worse than not changing your engine (and transmission) oil is not checking the levels regularly (EVERY fuel up, or more) frequently. It is more important to change transmission oil frequently (first one @ ~10,000km then second @50,000km) when the car is new and IMHO intervals can be extended (to 100,000km+) after good (150,000km) break-in. A manual trans change only uses under 3 ltrs and is cheap easy maintenance. I use only extended life coolant and change that every 5 years. This car has 340,000km, and has had no engine or trans problems or repairs, is still on the factory clutch and original water pump. Alternators are reported as problematic so I picked up a used spare but am still on the original. IMHE, 'nothing you have a spare part for ever breaks.' Good luck, YMMV |
#7
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Oil changes
On Jan 23, 11:52*pm, "Private" > wrote:
> "Shawn" > wrote in message > > ... > > > > >I own an 2007 Saturn Aura XR with about 59,000 miles. *I've had the > > car since July of last year and so far I've put on about 23,000 > > miles. *I drive on average of about 950 miles per week. *I've only had > > the oil changed twice in the nearly 6 months that I've owned it. *Both > > times that I've had it changed I've waited until the "oil life" > > reading on the DIC had decremented itself down to 0%. *Today, when I > > was in for my most recent oil change, the oil change tech scolded me > > for not bringing in the car sooner. *I specified that it had been > > nearly 11,000 miles since my last change but that the oil life reading > > had only very recently went all the way down to 0%. *He told me that I > > can't use that as an indicator as to when the oil should be changed if > > I'm using standard oil. *He said that I'd need to be using a premium > > type oil in order to go that long without a change. *I double checked > > my owners manual and reread the portion that talked about oil > > changes. *As I expected, the manual said that the car uses the onboard > > computer to determine when the oil needs to be changed. *As well, the > > manual didn't say anything at all about only using high grade > > synthetic oils. *My question is this - if I'm using regular grade 10w > > - 30 oil should I "trust" the car and only get my oil changed when the > > life meter decrements itself all the way down to, or near, 0% (even if > > this means that 10 or 11 thousand miles have passed since my last > > change) or should I religiously change my oil every 3 months or 3,000 > > miles as has been preached to us since time immeasurable. *I think > > that the oil change tech was probably just regurgitating what he was > > told when he was hired - *"tell everyone that has gone more then 3 > > months or 3,000 miles since their last change that this is a bad > > practice and that it should be done every 3 months or 3,000 > > regardless." *Thanks for any help! > > If your computer is wrong, it will not be paying for your repairs! > > IMHO, > Modern oils are better than older formulations. > Modern metallurgy and manufacturing processes and tolerances are better and > more consistent than in the past, QC is also better. > Most modern machinery IS MUCH BETTER and is capable of a far longer service > life. > Oil does NOT wear out. > > But- > IMHO, The problem with extending oil change intervals is that the still not > worn out? oil will contain high amounts of suspended wear particles as well > as chemical impurities that are both harmful to operating and non operating > machinery. *IMHO the use of expensive premium or synthetic oils makes > virtually no difference to the oil contamination levels, and their use is > not reason enough to extend drain intervals. *IMHO, Synthetic is superior > but can be justified only in very cold (artic) use, but that usage also > probably qualifies as severe and would also require reduced drain intervals. > > Oil change intervals are a management problem. *Too soon or too long are > both inefficient and uneconomic as well as both increasing environmental > harm. > > After break-in, I experimented with extending the drain intervals on my then > new S1 series to the recommended maximum of 10,000km (6000mi) but was not > happy with either the look of the drained oil or the lab analysis or the > burnoff rate which was much higher after about the 6000km (3600mi) mark. *I > adopted a 6000km drain interval for the first 250,000km then shortened that > to the current 5000km (3000mi) interval. > > Others S series experience and opinion is that the timing chain tensioner is > the first part that will gum up and fail from old dirty oil. *Keeping this > part functioning properly will save MUCH more in repair costs than any > savings from extended drain intervals. > > IMHO economic management suggests that the best time to change oil is when > the engine is down to the add mark as a full change only costs 3 ltrs (and a > filter) more than a simple add. *If you are really frugal you could change > the filter every second change, but I prefer to change both at the same time > for lots of reasons. > > I now have 340,000km on the car and get ~1800km to the first ltr oil add, > then ~1600km to the second ltr add. *It will normally be down to the third > add mark after ~1200 more and at that point I think it is a good time to > just drain and refill with clean. > > Once you have the few simple tools and some experience, changing oil is > simple and a LOT quicker AND much cheaper than getting poor quality bulk oil > and filters from a change $hop. *It also gives me a chance to do a good > visual inspection for leaks or other problems. *I have learned to change the > filter OK but have never found a good way to solve the oil spill from the > filter problem and just place a rag on the frame under the axle. *I use > ramps made from 2 thicknesses of 2x8 nailed together and bevelled at the > front edge, (I suspect a bigger guy would need three thicknesses). > > I purchase my filters by the dozen or more whenever I can negotiate a good > price from a parts jobber. *I use only top quality filters (currently Wix, > never Fram). *I have tried most quality oils but my current year round > favorite is Wally's Super Tech in 5w30, I buy several cases whenever the > price is right. > > I refill ltr size containers from the large 4ltr jugs and carry 2 in the car > so I can add when only down a little bit and try to run near the full mark > all the time. *One ltr fits beside the brake master cylinder and the second > on the right lower side of the rad. > > I think that frequent oil changes are the easiest and cheapest way of > minimizing repair co$t$ and of maximizing service life. *The only thing > worse than not changing your engine (and transmission) oil is not checking > the levels regularly (EVERY fuel up, or more) frequently. *It is more > important to change transmission oil frequently (first one @ ~10,000km then > second @50,000km) when the car is new and IMHO intervals can be extended (to > 100,000km+) after good (150,000km) break-in. *A manual trans change only > uses under 3 ltrs and is cheap easy maintenance. *I use only extended life > coolant and change that every 5 years. > > This car has 340,000km, and has had no engine or trans problems or repairs, > is still on the factory clutch and original water pump. *Alternators are > reported as problematic so I picked up a used spare but am still on the > original. *IMHE, 'nothing you have a spare part for ever breaks.' > > Good luck, YMMV Thanks so much for the helpful information. . .!! |
#8
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Oil changes
I used to take my 92 Saturn SL1 to the dealer for oil changes when it
was new, as this is what I was told by their salespeople. Little did I know, I could have taken it to Mr. Lube and paid half of what the dealership charged me (about 60 dollars back in early nineties), but... I was young and stupid back then and didn't know any better. Soon as the warranty expired, I started doing my own changes and at 100,000 km I switched to Synthetic. Almost 18 years later I'm still using the same brand of Synth oil and a el-cheapo filter from Canadian Tire. The car now has 554,000 kms on it (334,000 mi) and about the only MAJOR engine job I had to do on it was timing chain swap about 2 months ago (one of the guides shattered). The compression in each cylinder is 185+ PSI cold and dry. Engine consumes about a quart every 10,000 kms (6000 mi) and that's when I do my changes too - no sooner and no later than that. Alex |
#9
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Oil changes
Congratulations, sounds like you have broke the bank on this one. Your
cumulative miles suggest that you probably do a lot of highway driving. Is that correct? My 97 SL2 has been good to me. Currently have 209,000 miles. The first 7 years was virtually all highway driving, which I think contributed to its longevity. I did dealer oil changes about every 3000 miles, but they only charged $19 - $25 each. I'm now considering dropping it and buying something other than GM. I'm kinda' ****ed off at them. The A/C compressor died this winter, and I'm not looking forward to a summer of sweltering heat. I figure 13 years is pretty good, but now it's time to put Old Yeller down. JimR navaidstech wrote: > I used to take my 92 Saturn SL1 to the dealer for oil changes when it > was new, as this is what I was told by their salespeople. > Little did I know, I could have taken it to Mr. Lube and paid half of > what the dealership charged me (about 60 dollars back in early > nineties), but... I was young and stupid back then and didn't know any > better. > > Soon as the warranty expired, I started doing my own changes and at > 100,000 km I switched to Synthetic. Almost 18 years later I'm still > using the same brand of Synth oil and a el-cheapo filter from Canadian > Tire. > The car now has 554,000 kms on it (334,000 mi) and about the only > MAJOR engine job I had to do on it was timing chain swap about 2 > months ago (one of the guides shattered). > The compression in each cylinder is 185+ PSI cold and dry. Engine > consumes about a quart every 10,000 kms (6000 mi) and that's when I do > my changes too - no sooner and no later than that. > > Alex |
#10
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Oil changes
"navaidstech" > wrote in message ... >I used to take my 92 Saturn SL1 to the dealer for oil changes when it > was new, as this is what I was told by their salespeople. > Little did I know, I could have taken it to Mr. Lube and paid half of > what the dealership charged me (about 60 dollars back in early > nineties), but... I was young and stupid back then and didn't know any > better. > > Soon as the warranty expired, I started doing my own changes and at > 100,000 km I switched to Synthetic. Almost 18 years later I'm still > using the same brand of Synth oil and a el-cheapo filter from Canadian > Tire. > The car now has 554,000 kms on it (334,000 mi) and about the only > MAJOR engine job I had to do on it was timing chain swap about 2 > months ago (one of the guides shattered). > The compression in each cylinder is 185+ PSI cold and dry. Engine > consumes about a quart every 10,000 kms (6000 mi) and that's when I do > my changes too - no sooner and no later than that. > > Alex IMHO, This is excellent service life, and your maintenance program and schedule is obviously working well for your driving conditions and your driving style. I suspect you do mostly highway with few short trips, have a std tranny and keep your revs low. Are you still on your original clutch? Good luck, |
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