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#11
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![]() "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message ... > > "Jonjo777" > wrote in > message oups.com... >> replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote: >>> crwlrjeff wrote: >>> >>> If the blower worked at HIGH speed longer than at other speeds, the most >>> probable fault is the Final Stage Resistor. This resistor cuts the >>> voltage to the motor to cause it to run at the various speeds, and the >>> heat it generates tends to cook it over time. The typical symptom is >>> that LO will fail first, and HI fails last. >> >> >> Hi mate I now have the dash out and located the final stage resistor can >> I >> test at the plug for power to this with a amp mt thanks john >> > > > If the motor failed as described, the FSR is toast. Just buy a new one. > > If the motor stopped working at low and medium speeds before it stopped > working at high speed, the FSR went out. I'm sure there should be a test > of the FSR, but I do not know what it is, for example I cannot say to > connect the meter lead to Pin 1 and check for continuity to Pins 2, 3, and > 4. I'm sure the test is something like that, but I can't say for sure it > is that. > > The blower motor comes out into the engine bay, you do not get to it by > removing the dash board. The FSR lives on the left side of the > transmission hump, on a LHD car, it's just to the right of the gas pedal. > > My Bentley manual does not give a test procedure for checking the > continuity through the FSR. If I can read my schematic at all, Pin 4 is > the common pin to all of the speeds, so you want continuity from Pin 4 to > each of the other pins. Pin 4 has a GRN/GRY wire going to it (actually, > the flow of electricity is that the wire comes out). There is a thermal > protection switch (heat fuse) that will open, and this causes all speeds > except MAX to fail. The BLK wire (Pin 3) is Low, GRN (Pin 2) is Med, and > BLU (Pin 1) is High. GRN/GRY (Pin 4) is referred to as Max. Speeds on the > control dial are 1 through 4, where 1 is low and 4 is max. > > (I am using the schematic for a '94 325, and it is the schematic for all > cars from '93 to '95, except the ti.) > > > Use www.realoem.com or www.penskeparts.com to find the part for your car. You can then use the Part Number Search to see which other models use the same part as your car. This can help if you want to visit the local junk yard for parts from a wrecked car. |
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#12
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replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:
> crwlrjeff wrote: > > Use www.realoem.com or www.penskeparts.com to find the part for your car. > You can then use the Part Number Search to see which other models use the > same part as your car. This can help if you want to visit the local junk > yard for parts from a wrecked car. Thank you for your time and input with regards to my e38 blower fault after removing the dash my FSR is sat above the blower there is a plug with three wires going into the plastic housing anyways I done a mt test with full blower switch selected and got a reading of. 7.8 ten 2.13 in auto blow and other reading when increased so I'm getting the power there to the FSR so hope a replacement will solve my troubles thanks very much for. Your help guys -- posted from http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups |
#13
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![]() "Jonjo777" > wrote in message roups.com... > replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote: >> crwlrjeff wrote: >> >> Use www.realoem.com or www.penskeparts.com to find the part for your car. >> You can then use the Part Number Search to see which other models use the >> same part as your car. This can help if you want to visit the local junk >> yard for parts from a wrecked car. > > > Thank you for your time and input with regards to my e38 blower fault > after > removing the dash my FSR is sat above the blower there is a plug with > three > wires going into the plastic housing anyways I done a mt test with full > blower > switch selected and got a reading of. 7.8 ten 2.13 in auto blow and other > reading when increased so I'm getting the power there to the FSR so hope a > replacement will solve my troubles thanks very much for. Your help guys I'm sorry, I gave you a bum steer. The FSR is located on the left side of the transmission hump on an E36, I forgot that you have a 5 Series. The FSR should be the same, and you can confirm this by finding it in realoem.com or penskeparts.com and then cross referencing the part number. If your FSR is the same as mine, power comes out of Pin 4 and goes to the motor. In my car (manual control module), power comes out of the controller to the FSR, then comes out of the FSR on Pin 4 and goes to the motor as a variable voltage, where the variance is what changes the motor speed. My FSR has 4 wires, and the motor has 2. I think your car is significantly different and I have not helped you at all. |
#14
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replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:
> I'm sorry, I gave you a bum steer. The FSR is located on the left side of > the transmission hump on an E36, I forgot that you have a 5 Series. The FSR > should be the same, and you can confirm this by finding it in realoem.com or > penskeparts.com and then cross referencing the part number. > If your FSR is the same as mine, power comes out of Pin 4 and goes to the > motor. In my car (manual control module), power comes out of the controller > to the FSR, then comes out of the FSR on Pin 4 and goes to the motor as a > variable voltage, where the variance is what changes the motor speed. My FSR > has 4 wires, and the motor has 2. I think your car is significantly > different and I have not helped you at all. Think we getting confused a bit I have a 740 e38 on a 95 plate -- posted from http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups |
#15
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![]() "Jonjo777" > wrote in message roups.com... > replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote: >> I'm sorry, I gave you a bum steer. The FSR is located on the left side of >> the transmission hump on an E36, I forgot that you have a 5 Series. The >> FSR should be the same, and you can confirm this by finding it in >> realoem.com or > >> penskeparts.com and then cross referencing the part number. If your FSR >> is the same as mine, power comes out of Pin 4 and goes to the motor. In >> my car (manual control module), power comes out of the controller to the >> FSR, then comes out of the FSR on Pin 4 and goes to the motor as a >> variable voltage, where the variance is what changes the motor speed. My >> FSR > >> has 4 wires, and the motor has 2. I think your car is significantly >> different and I have not helped you at all. > > > Think we getting confused a bit I have a 740 e38 on a 95 plate 7 Series, 5 Series, not much different, but not a 3 Series that I used for my attempt at helping you. The fact remains, if the fan speed worked at MAX, but did not work on Low, Med., or High, then the FSR is the primary suspect in all that is wrong. |
#16
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replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:
> crwlrjeff wrote: > > "Jonjo777" > wrote in > message roups.com... > 7 Series, 5 Series, not much different, but not a 3 Series that I used for > my attempt at helping you. > The fact remains, if the fan speed worked at MAX, but did not work on Low, > Med., or High, then the FSR is the primary suspect in all that is wrong. Hello mate thanks for advice I have now got the FSR out now and you are spot on I have power to the FSR but none coming to motor I have test motor and that is fine so thanks it seem a lot of work to get the resistor out from under the dash -- posted from http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups |
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