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#1
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
Hi, I have five questions (below). Both the blower motor and radiator fan
for my '91 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter no longer work, even though I replaced both motors last week. The 25 amp AC/Heater fuse blows every time as soon as I turn the key to "run" with the heater on. I must have a short. After studying the wiring diagram, it seems the radiator fan and blower motor are on the same circuit. The wiring for this circuit goes as follows: Wire from Ignition Switch to 25 amp Heater/AC Fuse Then from this Fuse, wire to Splice A, with two wires coming out of this splice (wires 1 and 2 below): Splice A Wire 1: From Splice A to Heater Control Switch then to Blower Resistor then through the firewall then to Splice B: one wire to blower motor and the other to the blower relay Also, redundant ground from Blower Motor to Main Ground at Tranny Bolt Splice A Wire 2: From splice A through firewall then to Coolant Fan Relay then to Alternator input sensor [end] QUESTION 1: So does this mean the short must be between Splice A above and the ignition switch? QUESTION 2: If so, why does my alternator still work then, since that is also at the end of this same circuit?? I am at my wits end, as I was forced to purposely break my plastic center console in multiple places, just to access the blower motor switch. I was considering taking a Sawzall to it to get enough access. See, my shift stick knob would not come off, even though I pulled out the U-Pin. So I had no choice but to break the console into pieces to get to the blower switch. QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick know off if it is stuck on? Then, I was not able to perform the Chevy recommended diagnostic procedure with my DMM, since as soon as I turned the key to run, the fuse blew! And it is almost impossible to inspect the wiring, since the clusters are completely wrapped in electrical tape and very hard to access, even with the panels off, due to a metal support frame. It would take my hours just to remove the tape. And there is molten lava-like black gunk covering everything where my wire harness enters through the firewall. I thought is was dirt, but it feels too rubbery. It prevents me from seeing the wires at some points. QUESTION 4: What is this gunk? And now I have to remove the glove box and passenger side trim to access the blower resistor.! QUESTION 5: When will all this insanity end? All this just to find a short?! Thanks for any help! Julie |
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#2
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
"Julie P." > wrote in message news:74Off.5376$BC2.2@trnddc04... > QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick know off if it is stuck on? > Shift Stick KNOB! |
#3
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
"Julie P." > wrote in message news:74Off.5376$BC2.2@trnddc04... > QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick knob off if it is stuck on? Usually there is a horseshoe or staple shaped clip that holds the knob on. It usually goes on the front of the knob, where it is not easily seen.. If yours is of this ilk, just pry it out and the knob should come off. I will try to reconstruct your schematic and make a guess. |
#4
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
> wrote in message . net... > > "Julie P." > wrote in message > news:74Off.5376$BC2.2@trnddc04... > >> QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick knob off if it is stuck on? > > Usually there is a horseshoe or staple shaped clip that holds the knob on. > It usually goes on the front of the knob, where it is not easily seen.. > If > yours > is of this ilk, just pry it out and the knob should come off. > > > I will try to reconstruct your schematic and make a guess. > Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck on the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without trying to hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the stick out fo the tranny if I did this? Julie |
#5
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
"Julie P." > wrote in message news:08Pff.1541$Vu2.190@trnddc06... > Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck on > the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without trying to > hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the stick out > fo the tranny if I did this? > > Julie Although I am not familiar with this Cavalier application, GM normally just uses the U clip retainer, and the knob should come off. I havent noticed before that the park release button gets involved in holding the knob on, but you could try gently pulling and twisting while working that button. If you got really heavy handed, I guess you could always damage the shifter. But I think it is rather unlikely. I have a Chiltons or somesuch which applies to a number of GM cars, and will take a look a little later today to see if GM engineers have come up with some change in the setup. |
#6
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
Try squirting some oil in the key hole in the ignition switch.
Don't ask me why but it cured an intermittenet problem with my heater fan and window wipers. That was after I had removed and inspected the wiper motor and removed the steering column cover and examined the ignition wiring. I'd also try some (penetrating) oil or WD-40 on the stick shift. |
#7
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
Just a thought for you.
On the last heater blower I bought, the power plug was a 'universal' one that could have the negative in either of the two pin positions. If I had of gotten it wrong, I would blow the fuse instantly like you are doing. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) "Julie P." wrote: > > Hi, I have five questions (below). Both the blower motor and radiator fan > for my '91 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter no longer work, even though I replaced > both motors last week. The 25 amp AC/Heater fuse blows every time as soon as > I turn the key to "run" with the heater on. I must have a short. > > After studying the wiring diagram, it seems the radiator fan and blower > motor are on the same circuit. > > The wiring for this circuit goes as follows: > > Wire from Ignition Switch to > 25 amp Heater/AC Fuse > > Then from this Fuse, wire to Splice A, with two wires coming out of this > splice (wires 1 and 2 below): > > Splice A Wire 1: > From Splice A to > Heater Control Switch then to > Blower Resistor then > through the firewall then to > Splice B: one wire to blower motor and the other to the blower relay > > Also, redundant ground from Blower Motor to Main Ground at Tranny Bolt > > Splice A Wire 2: > > From splice A through firewall then > to Coolant Fan Relay then > to Alternator input sensor > > [end] > > QUESTION 1: > So does this mean the short must be between Splice A above and the ignition > switch? > > QUESTION 2: If so, why does my alternator still work then, since that is > also at the end of this same circuit?? > > I am at my wits end, as I was forced to purposely break my plastic center > console in multiple places, just to access the blower motor switch. I was > considering taking a Sawzall to it to get enough access. See, my shift stick > knob would not come off, even though I pulled out the U-Pin. So I had no > choice but to break the console into pieces to get to the blower switch. > > QUESTION 3: How do I get my shift stick know off if it is stuck on? > > Then, I was not able to perform the Chevy recommended diagnostic procedure > with my DMM, since as soon as I turned the key to run, the fuse blew! > > And it is almost impossible to inspect the wiring, since the clusters are > completely wrapped in electrical tape and very hard to access, even with the > panels off, due to a metal support frame. It would take my hours just to > remove the tape. > > And there is molten lava-like black gunk covering everything where my wire > harness enters through the firewall. I thought is was dirt, but it feels too > rubbery. It prevents me from seeing the wires at some points. > > QUESTION 4: What is this gunk? > > And now I have to remove the glove box and passenger side trim to access the > blower resistor.! > > QUESTION 5: When will all this insanity end? All this just to find a short?! > > > Thanks for any help! > > Julie |
#8
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
> wrote in message om... > > "Julie P." > wrote in message > news:08Pff.1541$Vu2.190@trnddc06... > > > Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck on > > the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without trying > to > > hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the stick > out > > fo the tranny if I did this? > > > > Julie Re the stupid Chiltons, it was worthless. Sorry. |
#9
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
> wrote in message
om... > > > wrote in message > om... >> >> "Julie P." > wrote in message >> news:08Pff.1541$Vu2.190@trnddc06... >> >> > Thanks HLS. But I did take the U-clip off. And the knob was still stuck > on >> > the stick. Should I just yank on it with all my strength (without >> > trying >> to >> > hold the stick down)? Will I damage the tranny? Or will I yank the >> > stick >> out >> > fo the tranny if I did this? >> > >> > Julie > > Re the stupid Chiltons, it was worthless. Sorry. > No problem HLS. Thanks for looking! I'll try wiggling around a little, but I can tell you it is stuck on pretty tight. Julie > |
#10
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Is My Electrical Diagnosis Correct?
"William R. Watt" > wrote in message ... > Try squirting some oil in the key hole in the ignition switch. > Don't ask me why but it cured an intermittenet problem with my heater fan > and window wipers. That was after I had removed and inspected the wiper > motor and removed the steering column cover and examined the ignition > wiring. > > I'd also try some (penetrating) oil or WD-40 on the stick shift. > Ok, I'll give these a try William. I know, one time I had an intermittent problem where the radio shut down while driving, and only restarting the car fixed this. The problem was traced to a faulty ignition switch, which I replaced. Julie |
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