Can you tell me how Torq Sticks Work?

Didn't you recently shell out for a digital Sears torque tester, Lawrence?

Lawrence Glickman wrote:
>
> On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 12:24:34 -0600, "*" > wrote:
>
> >"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
> .. .
> >> On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 09:42:51 -0500, Mike Romain >
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >They work very poorly and are one of the biggest causes of failed
> >brake
> >> >rotors going.
> >>
> >> I guess the bottom line is, do you think I should take them back for a
> >> refund ???
> >>
> >> They've never been used and I still have the box and original
> >> packaging.
> >>
> >> Please reply.
> >>
> >> Lg
> >>
> >
> >If you're not a professional doing flat rate work, it's
> >my personal opinion that they're not cost effective
> >and a standard torque wrench is a better alternative.
> >
>
> Thanks noone !
>
> I was waiting for some professional advice. I'll take them back, get
> my money and go to sears to get a _real_ torque wrench.
>
> Leaving for Indiana now, with New in Box sticks, original packaging
> and receipt. If they give me any *stuff,* I will just tell them that
> my pro-mechanic friend told me to bring em back!
>
> Lg

Just an FYI, I use those $30.00 bar style torque wrenches and find them
great. If they go out of calibration, a slight bend on the arm will 0
them again. I have never seen one go really bad. The click style ones
appear to go out of adjustment regularly and need expensive calibrating
from what I have read mostly in these groups. For that reason I never
trust them much when I see someone hauling one out of an off road rig
where they have been bouncing around for who knows how long in who know
how much water....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

> "Billy dumb ass" is a complete and total moron.

yeah >> agreed!! >> that guy is a total GEEK!!

> Ignore his posts.

For the most part I certainly hope that no one is stupid enough to listen to my
posts -- I surely have no idea as to what it is that I am talking about -- I
just sit in a corner, in the corner of a very dark (that the way I like it) room
and do nothing but spew my BS.... <Grin>



BBA

"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 00:22:28 -0800, "Billy Bad Assr©"
> > wrote:
>
> >LOL >> you got ripped off!!
>
> I don't know that -yet-. They claim to be +/- 4% accurate.
>
> >We had one of those things floating around -- worthless POS >> 2 parts, an
> >extension and a socket! I looked at it -- I saw a plastic/steel socket!
>
> There is no plastic on anything here. Don't know what you had, but
> these are designed to plug directly into impact sockets. Metal to
> metal, no plastic involved.
>
> > Inner
> >part of socket is supposed to break loose at a given torque >> problem is
> >sockets plastic housing wears out rather quickly
>
> see above
>
> >> IMHO not worth the $$$!! <<
> >Warning - may cause a major headaches!!!
>
> >you are aware that the sticks are for your wheel lug nuts!
>
> Yes.
> I've been searching the Internet for the "theory of operation" of
> these torq sticks, and haven't been able to find anything yet,
> although I have come across a lot of other valuable information
> relating to torque extensions and how to calculate what you should set
> your torque for when using extensions, with mathematical formulas (
> simple algebra ).
>
> I am still baffled at the theory of operation of these things.
> You can't explain it to me because you said you had plastic break-away
> parts in yours. These things involve no plastic whatsoever, and are
> popular with many DEALERSHIPS around here. The techs tell me they use
> them extensively, and have no complaints.

The tire store next door uses them -- they flex when they obtain the desired
torque -- I tried one -- have to get me a set to try out!! Not a bad tool IMO!

> But they didn't have time to take me through the *theory*.

Whip out your impact wrench and try one - as it is immediately apparent as to
how they work

> Thanks anyhow.
My pleasure -- what freq. to you work? Me >> 220, 440, 2 meters and 10 meters!
Own/Op 3 repeaters >grin<

vol 89 No.3 qst's W1ZR reviewed a 756PROIII >> guess what I just purchased ><>
sweet!! >grin<



BBA

In article >,
Lawrence Glickman > wrote:


> I want to know if I should return them for a full refund. I've have
> them New in the Box here with the receipt, I just bought them
> yesterday afternoon.

As a mechanic, I like to save time when possible, but there have
been enough horror stories associated with torque sticks that I
have no desire to use them.
If I were you and considering the angst WRT wheel lug torque, I'd
return them.

> I could use that money to buy a REAL torque wrench ( $105.99 tax inc
> ).

Personally, I don't think you can get a real torque wrench for
$105.99.

You should be looking at this;
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...ttp%3A%2F%2Fww
w%2Etoolsource%2Ecom%2Fost1%2Fresults%2Easp%3Fbran d%5Fid%3D%2C+pre
&dept%5Fid=500&pf%5Fid=92769&mscssid=AUES5H5H4HEK9 HEM9XSQXDLLT99N2
W9D

I've had one for over 20 years (Snap-On branded) and it has yet
to go out of calibration. Then again, I don't use it as a hammer
or a breaker bar.

> Please advise.

It's more money than the $100 one you looked at but it is the
best torque wrench on the market short of an electronic or dial
type.

If you decide to keep the torque sticks, you'll still have to
dial them in on your impact gun and that means checking them
against a known good torque wrench.

In article >,
Mike Romain > wrote:

> Just an FYI, I use those $30.00 bar style torque wrenches and find them
> great. If they go out of calibration, a slight bend on the arm will 0
> them again. I have never seen one go really bad. The click style ones
> appear to go out of adjustment regularly and need expensive calibrating
> from what I have read mostly in these groups. For that reason I never
> trust them much when I see someone hauling one out of an off road rig
> where they have been bouncing around for who knows how long in who know
> how much water....

Nothing wrong with a beam style torque wrench, but they really
suck for lug nuts because you have to get your head way down low
to get your eyes in front of the scale to read it.

On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 13:16:26 -0600, "HLS" > wrote:

>Didn't you recently shell out for a digital Sears torque tester, Lawrence?
>

Yes HLS, I did in fact do so. Now today I bought a real torque wrench
and am mounting the strain gauge and associated torque meter to my
workbench so I can know how far off my *real* torque wrench is
calibration wise. The New torque wrench I bought today.

I used the gauge on the car once, it went flawlessly, but, it is
_expensive_ and a relatively sensitive piece of equipment, so I'll use
it for calibration in the house and leave the down and dirty stuff to
my new clicker.

Lg

On Sat, 05 Mar 2005 01:07:06 GMT, aarcuda69062
> wrote:

>In article >,
> Lawrence Glickman > wrote:
>
>
>> I want to know if I should return them for a full refund. I've have
>> them New in the Box here with the receipt, I just bought them
>> yesterday afternoon.
>
>As a mechanic, I like to save time when possible, but there have
>been enough horror stories associated with torque sticks that I
>have no desire to use them.
>If I were you and considering the angst WRT wheel lug torque, I'd
>return them.
>
>> I could use that money to buy a REAL torque wrench ( $105.99 tax inc
>> ).
>
>Personally, I don't think you can get a real torque wrench for
>$105.99.
>
>You should be looking at this;
>http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...ttp%3A%2F%2Fww
>w%2Etoolsource%2Ecom%2Fost1%2Fresults%2Easp%3Fbra nd%5Fid%3D%2C+pre
>&dept%5Fid=500&pf%5Fid=92769&mscssid=AUES5H5H4HEK 9HEM9XSQXDLLT99N2
>W9D

GAAAAK !!!!


>I've had one for over 20 years (Snap-On branded) and it has yet
>to go out of calibration. Then again, I don't use it as a hammer
>or a breaker bar.
>
>> Please advise.
>
>It's more money than the $100 one you looked at but it is the
>best torque wrench on the market short of an electronic or dial
>type.
>
>If you decide to keep the torque sticks, you'll still have to
>dial them in on your impact gun and that means checking them
>against a known good torque wrench.

I returned the torque sticks. Got my money back, and have a short
story to tell in another thread I'm starting ;0

Lg

"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 13:16:26 -0600, "HLS" > wrote:
>
> >Didn't you recently shell out for a digital Sears torque tester,
Lawrence?
> >
>
> Yes HLS, I did in fact do so. Now today I bought a real torque wrench
> and am mounting the strain gauge and associated torque meter to my
> workbench so I can know how far off my *real* torque wrench is
> calibration wise. The New torque wrench I bought today.
>
> I used the gauge on the car once, it went flawlessly, but, it is
> _expensive_ and a relatively sensitive piece of equipment, so I'll use
> it for calibration in the house and leave the down and dirty stuff to
> my new clicker.
>
> Lg
>

"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 4 Mar 2005 13:16:26 -0600, "HLS" > wrote:
>
> >Didn't you recently shell out for a digital Sears torque tester,
Lawrence?
> >
>
> Yes HLS, I did in fact do so. Now today I bought a real torque wrench
> and am mounting the strain gauge and associated torque meter to my
> workbench so I can know how far off my *real* torque wrench is
> calibration wise. The New torque wrench I bought today.
>
> I used the gauge on the car once, it went flawlessly, but, it is
> _expensive_ and a relatively sensitive piece of equipment, so I'll use
> it for calibration in the house and leave the down and dirty stuff to
> my new clicker.
>
> Lg

Have you used it to calibrate the TorkStix?
Personally, I don't worry about it too much. I keep my torque wrench well
protected, and assume that if I get everything pretty much balanced and near
the spec value, that I will be okay. Has worked out ok up to now....

Now, it is important that one know the torque specs...several years ago a
professional mechanic and I were replacing head gaskets on a 429 Ford.. In
this
case, he told me to torque the bolts at about 85-90 ft-lbs. He hadn't
checked the specs.

The next day or two, the car came back. Another blown gasket. Upon
checking, the head bolt torque specs were 140 ft-lbs. Took all my glutei to
get there, but it was the magic number.

In general, you don't have to be exact, but you have to be near, and you
have to
be consistent.

Best regards