How to display error / fault codes 2001 Dodge Ram?

"MoPar Man" > wrote in message
...
> First let me thank maxpower (aka Glenn Measley), miles, FMB, Nosey,
> TBone, Tom Lawrence, and Joe Brophy for the wealth of information and
> the detailed answers to my technical questions about the Chrysler Data
> Bus (tm)(C). My special thanks to Glen for giving me the encouragment
> to continue diagnosing this problem in my own driveway.
>

Gee thanks but I didnt encourage you to work on it!!, but im glad you got it
fixed. I still think it is rain related.

Also I wont to say that I am one of those so called " Monkeys at the dealer"
Let me know when you have another problem!!


> To recap:
>
> 2001 Dodge ram, short cab, 5.2L, 2WD, all options.
>
> Truck ran fine one day, was parked overnight, there was rain that day
> and night, then the next morning engine would turn over but not
> start. After 2 days and some poking around
> (disconnecting/reconnecting various connectors) engine would start and
> briefly the guages worked for about a minute, then went dead, but
> engine could then be started at will after that.
>
> When ignition is switched to on, odometer displays "no buS" and the
> overhead console displays "CCD".
>
> Not having a proper wiring diagram, I focused on the wiring to the
> instrument cluster (MIC). There are 2 connectors (10 pins each) and
> after identifying all the ground and power pins, there were about 6
> pins that were candidates for being "the bus". One of those pins was
> showing 40 ohms to ground, which I thought was strange.
>
> I metered each of those 6 to the 3 connectors at the PCM and found
> that only 2 of them did indeed go to the PCM. As I suspected from
> examining much of the dashboard wiring, those wires are always a
> twisted pair - indicative of some sort of differential signaling, and
> I suspected they were indeed "the bus". One of those wires was the
> one showing 40 ohms to ground, and now I see it's showing 40 ohms to a
> third pin at the PCM (on a different connector).
>
> Ok, so what I do next is this: with the 3 connectors at the PCM
> already off, I disconnect as much of that cable as possible. That
> basically means to disconnect it's opposite end from the main fuse
> module beside the battery (it's a big square connector with a
> hold-down bolt in the middle). Ok, I'm still reading 40 ohms - so
> what's going on? Under the truck, I disconnect a cable going to the
> transmission (it's got maybe 10 wires) and discover that one of those
> wires is the one making a 40-ohm connection to one of the bus wires
> (this is with all connectors still disconnected).
>
> Ok, time to cut the main cable away from the firewall and remove all
> the black tape and physically inspect the twisted-pair bus wires. I
> do this all the way to the connector at the fuse module, and still get
> 40 ohms. The last thing is to take apart the square fuse-module
> connector. I do this, and as I manipulate the outer cover, the 40-ohm
> connection goes away. I manipulate the wires and manage to make the
> 40-ohm connection come and go.
>
> I look closely at where the bus wires go inside this connector, and
> where the mystery wire to the transmission goes, and it turns out
> they're right beside each other. But what's really wierd is that
> there's no indication that they're touching. No corrosion, no
> chafing, no bared insulation. Very strange.
>
> So I re-position the wires and close up and re-tape the connector,
> then re-tape the entire main cable back to the PCM connectors, and
> re-install all connectors and assemblies in the dash that I took
> apart.
>
> Needless to say, the MIC worked fine, and no PCM or MIC codes were
> displayed when I tried the various diagnostic code reporting methods.
>
> I'm thinking that this problem had nothing to do with the rain that
> happened the night before this problem started, but I still don't know
> why the engine wouldn't start during the early phase of this
> situation.
>
> I'm glad I did this, and not simply take it to the dealership and
> maybe those monkeys wiggle something and the problem goes away only to
> come back later. At least now I know where to look if it happens
> again.

anyone looking for a pretty good old farm type truck? 1970 small block 4
spd. 2 ton on purple wave auction.com out of manhattan kansas. so far the
bid is 550.00 looks to be a driver with not much rust. good floors and
rockers. ksgp2
"MoPar Man" > wrote in message
...
>
> What combination of switches or knobs do I push to get a listing of
> any error or fault codes for a 2001 Dodge ram (5.2 L / 318 V-8 with
> overhead information console) ?
>
> It cranks fine but is not starting, is displaying "no bus" in the
> odometer, and is showing "CCD" on the overhead display where the fuel
> DTE and MPG readings should be. Fuel guage reads way below empty.
>
> It's got very low miles (about 20k) and spends most of it's time in a
> garage. Recently it spent a few days outside during very heavy rain.
>
> At first I thought someone stole gas out of the tank, but it seems I'm
> really just having an electrical connection problem.
>
> I want to go through the list on this page:
>
> http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32676
>
> But I need to get an error code first, hence my question about codes.
>
> Thanx.

replying to MoPar Man, thomas herron wrote:
You can jump the ads relay

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