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Front End Shakes After New Pad/Rotor Installation
Hi, I need some suggestions with this problem I encountered today -- I'll
provide as much information as I possibly can! Stats: 1998 Accord V6 4-dr Sedan 162K mi New pads: OEM 45022-S87-A01 New rotors: Wearever YH145232 (used previously on this car with success) Torque/Technical source: Helm Manual I've spend much time looking up past posts in the newsgroups and it looks like usually when a car has front end shaking while braking, it's recommended to check the rotors. But mine are new and didn't appear to arrive damaged in any way. Usually I just use Bendix pads (D503) on my car because of the lifetime replacement, but this time I wanted new shims for the pads (the old ones cracked after multiple reuse) and decided to buy OEM pads from my dealership since they come with the grease and shims already. As I said, I have used the Wearever rotors on both the front and the back previously with success. I prefer to change the rotors with the brake pads since they only run about $35 each here and it has always seemed to greatly improve my stopping distance even though it adds cost. I've done this all before a number of times... Removed the caliper, caliper mounting bracket, and the rotor. Replaced the rotor, using new disk-to-hub screws. Cleaned the caliper mounting bracket quite thoroughly and all copper brackets. Reinstalled the rotor and caliper mounting bracket (torqued to 80 ft-lb as stated in both helm and haynes), cleaned caliper thoroughly (including greasing the pins with grease Honda recommended I buy from Car Quest next door) along with carefully cleaning the exposed piston before pushing it back into the bore. Installed the pads, with grease as specified, and torqued the caliper bolts to 36 ft-lbs. Disks rotated fine, no hangs or anything abnormal. Turning the rotor by hand and applying the brake worked fine to stop rotation. Wheel installed and torqued to 80 ft-lbs. Everything I can think of was fine and exactly the same as I've always done on this car. The only difference that I can think of is that I have not used the wearever rotors in conjunction with OEM pads (always Bendix before). I noticed the OEM were *slightly* thicker and appearing more durable (which is understandable), but not any significant difference. Now details on the vibration. It occurs only over 55-60 MPH when braking with medium force. Stronger force does not seem to cause vibration. There is no pull to the left or right either when braking or cruising. The vibration is similar to a strong ABS feeling. The vibration is mostly felt in the steering wheel rather than the brake pedal, and it is also audible (like ABS chatter). I gave the brakes what I believe to be adequate brake-in driving around town and the freeway, etc. The vibration may have slightly let up in my 50 mile adventure, but not enough by far. I did not brake so hard that glazing might occur, rather, let the brakes heat up to see if they needed to be seated. But no success. In terms of braking power, it seems great and very strong. So I'm looking for any suggestions. I'm out of ideas really. I'll look again tomorrow in the day and see if there is anything amiss. This thought had crossed my mind though... Is it ever possible that ABS would come on if the front brakes were significantly more powerful than the rear? I mean, the speed sensors (which looked clean by the way) would have to get different front/rear readings. But I've never had this happen before with the same identical replacement in the past. The only reason I thought ABS had anything to do with it is because there is no pulling and the chatter sounds familiar. But never this strong in the steering wheel. Thanks in advance. |
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#2
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"SR-71" > wrote
> Hi, I need some suggestions with this problem I encountered today -- I'll > provide as much information as I possibly can! > > Stats: > 1998 Accord V6 4-dr Sedan > 162K mi > New pads: OEM 45022-S87-A01 > New rotors: Wearever YH145232 (used previously on this car with success) > Torque/Technical source: Helm Manual > > I've spend much time looking up past posts in the newsgroups and it looks > like usually when a car has front end shaking while braking, it's > recommended to check the rotors. But mine are new and didn't appear to > arrive damaged in any way. 1. a. Check tire inflation pressure. b. Has the car been over any bumps or had anything happen to it such that it's possible a wheel rim (or maybe another suspension or steering component) became bent? 2. Any chance you can put the old brake pads and shims in place (leaving the new rotor in place) and see what happens then? 3. From Wearever, can you get the specifications for the following? 3a. rotor thickness (for OEM 1995 Accord V6 sedan = 0.91 inch) 3b. allowable rotor thickness variation (probably around 0.0006 inch) 3c. allowable lateral runout (for OEM 1995 Accord V6 sedan = 0.004 inch) Then can you get a micrometer and dial indicator gage to measure rotor thickness and runout? I understand that brand new, yet defective, rotors do appear now and then. In the same vein, an article on runout in this month's issue of "Brake & Front End" (an automotive trade magazine) observes: "Never take for granted that the newly installed or freshly machined rotor is free of runout." 4. Disassemble. Carefully assemble and re-torque everything to spec. Maybe you missed something the first time around? Updates welcome (to help others in the future). Good luck. |
#3
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"Elmo P. Shagnasty" > wrote in message ... > In article >, > "SR-71" > wrote: > > > Hi, I need some suggestions with this problem I encountered today -- I'll > > provide as much information as I possibly can! > > I didn't even read your posting. The title says it all. > > All new rotors should be turned, on the car, per Honda specifications. > Otherwise, you get the shakes. > I think it's fixed... Thanks Elmo. I had seen this comment before in this newsgroup, but I had also seen on a number of occasions that the rotors should not be turned on Hondas as they will warp much, much faster. But I think I see what you mean if they are new, the turning should only be slight enough to bring into spec and not cause warping... At least that's my interpretation of what you mean and I'll be sure to check this out the next go-around. Caroline, thanks for the comments. Yes, it had been on gravel roads here in the DC area on Friday riddled with large potholes (avoiding Friday traffic on the Interstate), so I'll have to keep an eye on the suspension and related parts. I had a four-wheel alignment about 5Kmi ago, and I adjusted the PSI about a week ago. But after 162K mi...things are probably getting a bit worn. Anyway, I think you were both right. The new rotors must have been out of spec/warped. After (1) disassembling and reassembling everything -- no luck; (2) Trying different pads/shims -- no luck; finally (3) placing the old Wearever rotors (sanded to remove glaze) back on and the new OEM pads/shims, it seems to be working fine! I plan to buy a runout gauge and micrometer today to keep handy for the next time and to check current/future readings. Thanks for all the advice. It seems to have solved the problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed in the mean time and be prepared to check these suggestions in the future. Rousseau |
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