heater blower fault

can anyone put me in the direction for where the heater blower relay is on my
bmw e38 RHD 1995

--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups

jonjo777 wrote:
> can anyone put me in the direction for where the heater blower relay is
> on my
> bmw e38 RHD 1995

It won't be a relay. Google for "E38 hedgehog" (and probably in the
similar location on an E39); it's a PWM controller for the fan motor.

And check realoem.com; that'll give you diagrams that should help.

--
Scott

replying to Scott M , Jonjo777 wrote:
> no_one wrote:
>
> It won't be a relay. Google for "E38 hedgehog" (and probably in the
> similar location on an E39); it's a PWM controller for the fan motor.
> And check realoem.com; that'll give you diagrams that should help.


Hi Scott thanks for info the relay where is this located on my e 36 this
blower stopped working and after it worked for a while just trying to trace
from fuse to motor

--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups

"jonjo777" > wrote in
message roups.com...
> can anyone put me in the direction for where the heater blower relay is on
> my
> bmw e38 RHD 1995
>
> --
> posted from http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm
> using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
> alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups
>

If the blower worked at HIGH speed longer than at other speeds, the most
probable fault is the Final Stage Resistor. This resistor cuts the voltage
to the motor to cause it to run at the various speeds, and the heat it
generates tends to cook it over time. The typical symptom is that LO will
fail first, and HI fails last.

replying to Jonjo777, Jonjo777 wrote:
> Jonjo777 wrote:
>
> Hi Scott thanks for info the relay where is this located on my e 36 this
blower
> stopped working and after it worked for a while just trying to trace from
fuse
> to motor


E38 sorry

--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups

Scott M > wrote:
>jonjo777 wrote:
>> can anyone put me in the direction for where the heater blower relay is
>> on my
>> bmw e38 RHD 1995
>
>It won't be a relay. Google for "E38 hedgehog" (and probably in the
>similar location on an E39); it's a PWM controller for the fan motor.

Actually, it seems to be a linear controller, not a PWM device. Which is
why it's got all those cooling fins and still overheats and fails.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

replying to Scott M , Jonjo777 wrote:
> no_one wrote:
>
> It won't be a relay. Google for "E38 hedgehog" (and probably in the
> similar location on an E39); it's a PWM controller for the fan motor.
> And check realoem.com; that'll give you diagrams that should help.
> --
> Scott


**hi Scott what are these would
These be be anything to do with final stage of the blower .i did make a start
to remove the top dash after removing three 13 mm bolts from side and a few
screws along the front then a standstill all front was loose but doesn't want
to come out have I mist any is to why the dash seems stuck

Jonjo777 wrote:
> replying to Scott M , Jonjo777 wrote:
>> no_one wrote:
>>
>> It won't be a relay. Google for "E38 hedgehog" (and probably in the
>> similar location on an E39); it's a PWM controller for the fan motor.
>> And check realoem.com; that'll give you diagrams that should help. --
>> Scott
>
>
> **hi Scott what are these would
> These be be anything to do with final stage of the blower .i did make a
> start
> to remove the top dash after removing three 13 mm bolts from side and a few
> screws along the front then a standstill all front was loose but doesn't
> want
> to come out have I mist any is to why the dash seems stuck
>
>
>

Those are the direction flap control motors.

Here's a guide to replacing it, although for a LHD car:

http://www.bavariandominator.co.uk/p...tor_137123.cfm

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:
> crwlrjeff wrote:
>
> If the blower worked at HIGH speed longer than at other speeds, the most
> probable fault is the Final Stage Resistor. This resistor cuts the voltage
> to the motor to cause it to run at the various speeds, and the heat it
> generates tends to cook it over time. The typical symptom is that LO will
> fail first, and HI fails last.


Hi mate I now have the dash out and located the final stage resistor can I
test at the plug for power to this with a amp mt thanks john

--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/bmw/heate...ult-38141-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to
alt.autos.bmw and other automotive groups

"Jonjo777" > wrote in
message oups.com...
> replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:
>> crwlrjeff wrote:
>>
>> If the blower worked at HIGH speed longer than at other speeds, the most
>> probable fault is the Final Stage Resistor. This resistor cuts the
>> voltage to the motor to cause it to run at the various speeds, and the
>> heat it generates tends to cook it over time. The typical symptom is
>> that LO will fail first, and HI fails last.
>
>
> Hi mate I now have the dash out and located the final stage resistor can I
> test at the plug for power to this with a amp mt thanks john
>


If the motor failed as described, the FSR is toast. Just buy a new one.

If the motor stopped working at low and medium speeds before it stopped
working at high speed, the FSR went out. I'm sure there should be a test of
the FSR, but I do not know what it is, for example I cannot say to connect
the meter lead to Pin 1 and check for continuity to Pins 2, 3, and 4. I'm
sure the test is something like that, but I can't say for sure it is that.

The blower motor comes out into the engine bay, you do not get to it by
removing the dash board. The FSR lives on the left side of the transmission
hump, on a LHD car, it's just to the right of the gas pedal.

My Bentley manual does not give a test procedure for checking the continuity
through the FSR. If I can read my schematic at all, Pin 4 is the common pin
to all of the speeds, so you want continuity from Pin 4 to each of the other
pins. Pin 4 has a GRN/GRY wire going to it (actually, the flow of
electricity is that the wire comes out). There is a thermal protection
switch (heat fuse) that will open, and this causes all speeds except MAX to
fail. The BLK wire (Pin 3) is Low, GRN (Pin 2) is Med, and BLU (Pin 1) is
High. GRN/GRY (Pin 4) is referred to as Max. Speeds on the control dial are
1 through 4, where 1 is low and 4 is max.

(I am using the schematic for a '94 325, and it is the schematic for all
cars from '93 to '95, except the ti.)