'01 lw300 thermostat change - 8 hours!

Changed the thermostat on the '01 LW300 today. Getting ready for state
inspection and the engine has been running too cold, which throws a code.
Gone are the days when this was a 10 minute job. Couldn't believe it when
the service manual said to remove the entire intake manifold right down to
the engine block. Was able to remove only part of the intake and got the
bolts loose on the thermostat... but then found there was absolutely no way
to remove it short of beaming it up. Wound up going by the book - which
neglected to give instructions to remove power steering pump line to make
clearance for removing the water neck extension tube.
After three hours of disassembly, was getting to the point where I was
having serious concerns about whether I could get it back together. took a
break at that point to walk the dogs and clear my head a bit. Checked the
manual again and went back to work. Neighbor next door came over to see what
I was cursing so vehemently about (he's a Psychologist and wound up giving
me quite a bit of emotional support). Used sealant on everything. Did not
want to have to take it all apart because something was leaking. Replaced a
few cracked hoses too.
Eight hours later, all back together, nothing broken, no leftover parts
and a few band aids later, engine runs and actually gets to 195F.

I really should have changed the spark plugs while I had it all apart. Was
just in shock about taking it apart as much as I did. Now that I know the
procedure, will be a bit easier. With every thing you take apart, the
probability of breaking something increases. Just getting to the spark plugs
is only part of the problem. Soaking them down with penetrating fluid to
make sure that the threads don't strip out when removing is a big deal. I
stripped a cylinder head once and had a joyous time re-tapping to install an
insert.

Engine uses these reusable stainless steel clamps on all the rubber tubes
connecting the parts of the intake runners. Needs a special tool to install
them, removing them takes only a pry with a screwdriver. Couldn't find the
tool anywhere so just left the clamps off and used bailing wire wrapped
twice around the tube and twisted tight. At some point I'll get a cheap slip
joint pliers and modify them to work with the OEM clamps.

And now that the engine is getting to temperature, am getting potential
failures for tests that run only when the engine is warmed up. On the way to
work this morning the traction control light went out. This happens when the
engine controller is not happy and is thinking about turning on the check
engine light. Put the AutoTAP on it and found Evap test was not completed.
Reset the controller by pulling the 'Controls B+' fuse for 20 seconds.
Couldn't reset it from Autotap as there was nothing yet to reset. Will see
what reappears in the next day or so. For now the traction control light is
back on and working properly. There is some rust on the fuel filler neck and
there might be an air leak.

Check engine light was cycling on and off a couple times per week (I drive
about 50 miles a day).
Possibly from the fact that I've been driving for some time with the engine
too cold and it just had to find a "new normal"... Don't you love adaptive
controls? Guess it finally hit its stride and SE$ light's been off for
several days. Took it in for inspection and hoped for the best. Got gigged
on a license plate light that was out but I promised to fix it (will
probably have to drill out the screw that's stuck).

"Oppie" > wrote in message
...
> And now that the engine is getting to temperature, am getting potential
> failures for tests that run only when the engine is warmed up. On the way
> to work this morning the traction control light went out. This happens
> when the engine controller is not happy and is thinking about turning on
> the check engine light. Put the AutoTAP on it and found Evap test was not
> completed. Reset the controller by pulling the 'Controls B+' fuse for 20
> seconds. Couldn't reset it from Autotap as there was nothing yet to reset.
> Will see what reappears in the next day or so. For now the traction
> control light is back on and working properly. There is some rust on the
> fuel filler neck and there might be an air leak.
>