Battery/alternator light on

Hi all,

The battery/alternator light came on when I was driving my 1991 Accord
today morning. The light goes off when the rpm goes above a certain
level: it was 2500rpm in the morning, but when I checked in the
evening, it was 4000rpm. I replaced the battery a few months ago, so
my first guess was that the alternator is failing, but when I read
related posts on this group, I saw that it could be a bad voltage
regulator, loose connections, slipping belt, etc. The belt and
connections seem fine. How do I determine if it's the alternator or
the voltage regulator?

Thanks much,
Fijoy

On 03/11/2012 06:19 PM, Fijoy wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> The battery/alternator light came on when I was driving my 1991 Accord
> today morning. The light goes off when the rpm goes above a certain
> level: it was 2500rpm in the morning, but when I checked in the
> evening, it was 4000rpm. I replaced the battery a few months ago, so
> my first guess was that the alternator is failing, but when I read
> related posts on this group, I saw that it could be a bad voltage
> regulator, loose connections, slipping belt, etc. The belt and
> connections seem fine. How do I determine if it's the alternator or
> the voltage regulator?
>
> Thanks much,
> Fijoy

voltage reg is effectively the alternator too.

your symptoms are typical of worn brushes. just get a decent reman
alternator and you should be fine. assuming it's not something trivial
like a loose belt.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

Fijoy > wrote in news:634568ae-6662-4b70-93c9-
:

> Hi all,
>
> The battery/alternator light came on when I was driving my 1991 Accord
> today morning. The light goes off when the rpm goes above a certain
> level: it was 2500rpm in the morning, but when I checked in the
> evening, it was 4000rpm. I replaced the battery a few months ago, so
> my first guess was that the alternator is failing, but when I read
> related posts on this group, I saw that it could be a bad voltage
> regulator, loose connections, slipping belt, etc. The belt and
> connections seem fine. How do I determine if it's the alternator or
> the voltage regulator?
>



The voltage regulator is inside the alternator. For most people, the
alternator is a one-piece, replace-the-whole-thing item. Voltage-regulator
replacement is considered an "advanced" repair.

It sounds like you may just have worn brushes, which is a very easy fix
that may be done without removing the alternator from the vehicle.

Is this the original alternator that shipped with the car from the factory?



--
Tegger

On 3/11/12 9:19 PM, Fijoy wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> The battery/alternator light came on when I was driving my 1991 Accord
> today morning. The light goes off when the rpm goes above a certain
> level: it was 2500rpm in the morning, but when I checked in the
> evening, it was 4000rpm. I replaced the battery a few months ago, so
> my first guess was that the alternator is failing, but when I read
> related posts on this group, I saw that it could be a bad voltage
> regulator, loose connections, slipping belt, etc. The belt and
> connections seem fine. How do I determine if it's the alternator or
> the voltage regulator?
>
> Thanks much,
> Fijoy

It sounds like you're in over your head here. So to answer the question
in your last sentence-- drive on down to your local Honda dealer, pull
into the service reception bay, and ask the nice man to fix your car for
you...

--
You're all worthless and weak. Now drop and give me 20.

On Mar 12, 9:22*am, Tegger > wrote:
> Fijoy > wrote in news:634568ae-6662-4b70-93c9-
> :
>
> > Hi all,
>
> > The battery/alternator light came on when I was driving my 1991 Accord
> > today morning. The light goes off when the rpm goes above a certain
> > level: it was 2500rpm in the morning, but when I checked in the
> > evening, it was 4000rpm. I replaced the battery a few months ago, so
> > my first guess was that the alternator is failing, but when I read
> > related posts on this group, I saw that it could be a bad voltage
> > regulator, loose connections, slipping belt, etc. The belt and
> > connections seem fine. How do I determine if it's the alternator or
> > the voltage regulator?
>
> The voltage regulator is inside the alternator. For most people, the
> alternator is a one-piece, replace-the-whole-thing item. Voltage-regulator
> replacement is considered an "advanced" repair.
>
> It sounds like you may just have worn brushes, which is a very easy fix
> that may be done without removing the alternator from the vehicle.
>
> Is this the original alternator that shipped with the car from the factory?
>
> --
> Tegger

Thanks much. It is probably the original alternator that shipped with
the vehicle, but I'm not sure. I've had the car only for the past 6
years.

Fijoy

On Mar 12, 9:22*am, Tegger > wrote:
> Fijoy > wrote in news:634568ae-6662-4b70-93c9-
> :
>
> > Hi all,
>
> > The battery/alternator light came on when I was driving my 1991 Accord
> > today morning. The light goes off when the rpm goes above a certain
> > level: it was 2500rpm in the morning, but when I checked in the
> > evening, it was 4000rpm. I replaced the battery a few months ago, so
> > my first guess was that the alternator is failing, but when I read
> > related posts on this group, I saw that it could be a bad voltage
> > regulator, loose connections, slipping belt, etc. The belt and
> > connections seem fine. How do I determine if it's the alternator or
> > the voltage regulator?
>
> The voltage regulator is inside the alternator. For most people, the
> alternator is a one-piece, replace-the-whole-thing item. Voltage-regulator
> replacement is considered an "advanced" repair.
>
> It sounds like you may just have worn brushes, which is a very easy fix
> that may be done without removing the alternator from the vehicle.
>
> Is this the original alternator that shipped with the car from the factory?
>
> --
> Tegger

My mechanic is checking to find out what the problem is. I asked him
about the brushes, and he said that replacing the brushes will require
rebuilding the alternator, which will cost almost the same as getting
a new alternator, given the labor charges. Is he being reasonable?

Thanks,
Fijoy

Fijoy > wrote in
:


>
> My mechanic is checking to find out what the problem is. I asked him
> about the brushes, and he said that replacing the brushes will require
> rebuilding the alternator, which will cost almost the same as getting
> a new alternator, given the labor charges. Is he being reasonable?
>



That's not correct at all. You guy must not be familiar with Hondas.

The brushes come from the dealer in a holder that costs about $25, and
takes maybe 10 minutes to install on your car.

It's so quick to remove the brush assembly that it would make the most
sense to simply do that before anything else.

Now, if this is an /aftermarket rebuilt/ alternator, there's a chance that
it's actually bad. But you'll know once you pull the brush holder.

A typical symptom of worn brushes is flickering of the battery light. This
eventually goes solid given enough time. You can sometimes force the
brushes to re-seat by tapping the rear of the alternator with a wrench or
other tool. If the light comes on, and tapping the rear of the alternator
makes it go off, then it's likely just the brushes.


--
Tegger

Tegger > wrote in
:


>
> Now, if this is an /aftermarket rebuilt/ alternator, there's a chance
> that it's actually bad. But you'll know once you pull the brush
> holder.
>



If you've gone 6-years with this alternator, it's probably original
Aftermarket alternators don't last anywhere near that long.

Any mechanic worth his salt will be able to tell at a glance if the
alternator is aftermarket or not.


--
Tegger

On 03/12/2012 08:41 AM, Tegger wrote:
> > wrote in
> :
>
>
>>
>> My mechanic is checking to find out what the problem is. I asked him
>> about the brushes, and he said that replacing the brushes will require
>> rebuilding the alternator, which will cost almost the same as getting
>> a new alternator, given the labor charges. Is he being reasonable?
>>
>
>
>
> That's not correct at all. You guy must not be familiar with Hondas.
>
> The brushes come from the dealer in a holder that costs about $25, and
> takes maybe 10 minutes to install on your car.
>
> It's so quick to remove the brush assembly that it would make the most
> sense to simply do that before anything else.

not always true tegger. as you should know, there are many different
types of alternator used on hondas. denso are indeed easy for brush
replacement. but some of the others require complete break-down and
special tools. for them, brush replacement is not viable, even for an
averagely competent mechanic, so it is wrong and misleading to suggest
otherwise.


>
> Now, if this is an /aftermarket rebuilt/ alternator, there's a chance that
> it's actually bad. But you'll know once you pull the brush holder.
>
> A typical symptom of worn brushes is flickering of the battery light. This
> eventually goes solid given enough time. You can sometimes force the
> brushes to re-seat by tapping the rear of the alternator with a wrench or
> other tool. If the light comes on, and tapping the rear of the alternator
> makes it go off, then it's likely just the brushes.
>
>


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On 03/12/2012 08:44 AM, Tegger wrote:
> > wrote in
> :
>
>
>>
>> Now, if this is an /aftermarket rebuilt/ alternator, there's a chance
>> that it's actually bad. But you'll know once you pull the brush
>> holder.
>>
>
>
>
> If you've gone 6-years with this alternator, it's probably original
> Aftermarket alternators don't last anywhere near that long.

you're just bull****ting. example: a bosch rebuild of a denso
alternator is "aftermarket". but it's competent and reliable. and they
can easily last as long as other oem.


>
> Any mechanic worth his salt will be able to tell at a glance if the
> alternator is aftermarket or not.

anyone worth their salt putting themselves forward as a honda "expert"
should know that denso are not the only oem supplier of honda
alternators, and that they're not all easily brush accessible.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum