A Cars forum. AutoBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » AutoBanter forum » Auto makers » Chrysler
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Suspension parts for 300M with Performance Handling Package



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old December 27th 14, 05:23 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
MoPar Man
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 660
Default Hey Perce - what did you do Suspension parts for 300M withPerformance Handling Package?

You might find this interesting:

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthr...=186735&page=7

Starting around post 99.

I think I have the clunking problem - probably don't need a new mount.

I can't figure out from reading that (and the thread on 300mclub) if the
washer fix is for the shock absorber rod/nut, or for one (or more) of
the upper strut mounting studs.

http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic...807&start=1350

And then there's this:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...que-issue.html

The shock rod needs to be seated - is it square?

I'm going to have to check this rod nut tommorrow.
Ads
  #22  
Old December 27th 14, 06:13 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
Percival P. Cassidy[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 241
Default Hey Perce - what did you do Suspension parts for 300M withPerformance Handling Package?

On 12/26/2014 11:23 PM, MoPar Man wrote:
> You might find this interesting:
>
> http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthr...=186735&page=7
>
> Starting around post 99.
>
> I think I have the clunking problem - probably don't need a new mount.
>
> I can't figure out from reading that (and the thread on 300mclub) if the
> washer fix is for the shock absorber rod/nut, or for one (or more) of
> the upper strut mounting studs.
>
> http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic...807&start=1350


I think they're referring to the shock absorber rod.

> And then there's this:
>
> http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...que-issue.html
>
> The shock rod needs to be seated - is it square?
>
> I'm going to have to check this rod nut tommorrow.


If I understood correctly, the reports on the 300Mclub forum were not
just concerning noise but claimed that the whole assembly was shot after
a comparatively short time.

And if the OEM LH and RH mounts are different (and presumably for some
good reason), why do the after-market quick-strut assemblies use
identical ones left and right?

Perce

  #23  
Old December 27th 14, 06:25 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
Percival P. Cassidy[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 241
Default Hey Perce - what did you do Suspension parts for 300M withPerformance Handling Package?

On 12/26/2014 10:32 PM, MoPar Man wrote:

>>> Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?

>>
>> I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.

>
> OK.
>
> So now that I've taken apart the original left strut, I can list the
> part numbers for all parts. The dust boot is in great shape (no cuts or
> scratches).
>
>>> If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?

>>
>> Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots
>> are separate.

>
> The only thing that looks like a P/N on the seat (the big black plastic
> part) is 04782016.
>
> Throwing that into google gives many pages like this one:
>
> http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...8140264AA.html
>
> Where they specifically give this:
>
> ----------------------------------
> Stock Code 68140264AA;04782016
> ----------------------------------
>
> So I have no idea what "68140264AA" is for, or if it's interchangeable
> for 04782016.


I didn't look at number(s) on the seats. Presumably the seats and
bearing assemblies do have their own individual part numbers but are
sold only together as a set.

>> If you enter the VIN at wermopar.com, it should show you the
>> correct part numbers for everything.

>
> I'll give that a try.
>
> Just for the record, here's what my P/N's a
>
> Refering to Figure 64 on page 2-35 of the service manual, from top to
> bottom:
>
> Part 9 (Upper mount) - 04782019AB Black
> - 04782018AB White 99201
> Part 1 (seat and bearing)
> - FAG RG 559342 SAE PASS GF33 2-2
> - 04782016 Time-stamp wheel (see below)
> Part 8 (upper spring isolator) - 4782233AA (foam)
> Part 2 (dust shield) - 04782235AA SAE TEEE
> Part 3 (cup) - 04782238AB 11 SAE PASS FAG 559374 CANADA
> - plastic cup with large metal washer in bottom
> Part 6 (jounce bumper) - 4782017 77484 BASF 31 (foam)
>
> Time stamp wheel: looks like clock face with 99 in the center surrounded
> by 12 sectors, with 6 of the sectors having a dimple (or 2 dimples)
> stamped into them. Possibly indicating the part was made in June 1999?
>
> I am really impressed with the durability of the high-density foam upper
> spring isolator. I wouldn't have thought that a material like that
> would have stood up over time to the forces applied to it without
> eventually crumbling. I could clean away the grease and dig out some of
> the rusted crust that came off the spring, and it would look almost new.


I don't recall how the upper spring isolators looked, but the lower ones
were definitely shot.

> And this is something I don't get: Correct me if I'm wrong, but the
> foam spring isolators and the plastic seat and the rather skimpy-looking
> bearing races (and the tiny bearings!) - all those parts are basically
> holding half the weight of the front of the car - and god knows how much
> additional force when the car is manouvering, breaking or hitting pot
> holes?
>
> I can't believe that the skimpy-looking bearing races (and the tiny
> bearings - about 2 or 3 dozen of them, maybe a tad larger than 1/8"
> diameter) are durable enough to be exposed to what - a thousand pounds
> of force at rest?


So each ball supports a comparatively small load.

> Did you get a new seat/bearing assembly? What holds the upper and lower
> bearing races together? (mine can just be separated by hand with nothing
> to hold them together).


I replaced both seat/bearing assemblies. Mine came apart too. I never
really thought about what keeps them together once they're installed.

>>> Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other
>>> words, will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by
>>> a wire?

>>
>> On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the
>> body of the strut.

>
> Hmmm.
>
> With my original, with a light amount of force I can push the shaft into
> the strut body all the way by hand, but when I let go it will naturally
> extend out slowly about 6-8 inches over about a minute.


So maybe there's a difference between the OEM and the Monroe ones.

Perce

  #24  
Old December 27th 14, 07:18 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
MoPar Man
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 660
Default Hey Perce - what did you do Suspension parts for 300M withPerformance Handling Package?

"Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:

> >>> Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other
> >>> words, will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by
> >>> a wire?
> >>
> >> On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into
> >> the body of the strut.

> >
> > Hmmm.
> >
> > With my original, with a light amount of force I can push the
> > shaft into the strut body all the way by hand, but when I let
> > go it will naturally extend out slowly about 6-8 inches over
> > about a minute.

>
> So maybe there's a difference between the OEM and the Monroe ones.


Ok, so what I've done today:

Took a 13/16" Craftsman sparkplug socket and drilled out the internal
3/8" hole to 1/2". The hole is formed by a short internal shoulder, but
still it was a real bear on my drill press and I had to take it in 1/32"
drill-size steps. This allowed a 3/8" extension to pass through the
socket. A 10 mm 6-sided 3/8" drive socket fits on the shock-rod, the
13/16" sparkplug socket on the rod nut, a short 3/8" drive extension
through the sparkplug socket, and a wrench on the sparkplug socket.

Even though I put the left Monroe quickstrut on exactly 2 years ago, I
was surprised by the amount of corrosion on the shock-rod threads. But
with penetrating oil and some effort I managed to free the strut nut and
work the threads with the nut to clean them. All this with the wheels
on the ground.

I didn't want to take the nut off completely - because of fear that the
rod might withdraw itself down into the strut and I'd be really
screwed. But looking at the height of the rod with the nut almost off
vs fully tight, the rod height doesn't change - so it doesn't have any
tendency to get pulled down. If true, then both the Monroe shock and
the factory original shock have some sort of gas-charge (or a weak
internal spring?) that gives them a natural tendency to extend the rod.

With the nut fully tight (as tight as I can make it, with no regard to a
torque wrench), I can turn the rod/nut pretty easily with the 10 mm
socket/wrench on the rod. Can turn it 360 degrees, multiple times. So
if the rod has any seating flats on it (like the Toyota problem) then
they're not making contact with anything. But nobody on the
chrysler/intrepid forums mentioned anything about the monroe strut rod
needing to be rotated into a seated position.

But still, the fact that I can rotate the tightened rod without much
effort - should I be able to? Is that where the extra washer comes in -
because they didn't put enough threads on the rod?

Looking down into the upper strut mount on the monroe I can see the 2
ears or flanges as mentioned in the service manual.

Regarding the early failure of the Monroe quick struts as mentioned in
the forums - those seem to have happened in 2010, and Monroe seems to
have known or learned about the failure and made some correction to
them. I installed my left quick strut in Dec 2012, and the right in Dec
2013.

So presumably my struts will not have the same issue that caused the
problems in 2010. Now whether they have this issue with the rod nut /
washer, if that is indeed a systemic issue - I don't know. I'd just
like to know if you're supposed to be able to turn the rod (by grabbing
the rod nut) in a normal situation.

A very small amount of play between the shoulder on the strut and the
lower surface of the strut mount would easily cause the knocking that
I've been feeling from that side since I put the strut on. I think by
tonight I'm gonna have an extra washer under that nut...
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
PICS: NEW Performance Appearance Package 4 Dodge Challenger JLA Dodge 0 January 5th 10 02:51 AM
325xi sport package, suspension? kpb BMW 6 October 20th 07 08:44 PM
Performance Auto Parts at Mach Performance Parts Inc. [email protected] Ford Mustang 0 July 19th 06 11:40 AM
Bad Gas Mileage with 2005 330i BMW with Performance Package Kent Lewis BMW 26 December 10th 04 07:14 PM
Used 330i with Performance Package vs. Sport Package GRL BMW 9 November 21st 04 10:22 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 AutoBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.