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99 Chrysler 300M 3.5L - Cranks, will not start



 
 
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Old October 19th 13, 04:17 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
Combat Missionary
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Default 99 Chrysler 300M 3.5L - Cranks, will not start

replying to hightide610 , Combat Missionary wrote:
If you haven't actually jumped time, then...

Apparently a lot of Chrysler 300M's at one point or another go through a
problem similar to this. The symptoms include (often in this order):

Acting like the rev limiter is turning on at greater than approximately 2,500
RPM

Rough idle followed by engine shutdown and inability to start

The Fuel Shutdown and/or Automatic Shutdown Relay clicking on and off multiple
times per second or every couple of seconds

Intermittent spark when cranking the engine

Trouble codes for crankshaft position sensor fault, camshaft position sensor
fault, or both

People will try replacing the crankshaft position sensor, the camshaft
position sensor, or both, followed by the ECM (Engine Control Module), and the
car may start up, then stop working again. This will make you pull your hair
out.

I just went through this problem myself, and I was finally successful in
correcting the fault. If you follow this procedure, you will be too.

Pull the battery and clean and tighten the terminal clamps. Clean the
negative cable jump terminal on the passenger side fender under the hood.
Clean the terminals connected to the positive jump terminal in front of the
air cleaner assembly. Clean the positive cable terminal feeding power into the
power distribution center (PDC). Test your battery and make sure it is
charged. Lack of power due to a discharged or bad battery or corroded
terminals will prevent adequate spark and will stop cranking. After cleaning
these terminals, try starting the car. If the car still doesn't start, proceed
to step 2.

Test fuel pressure at the fuel rail while having an assistant crank the
engine. Upon startup, the fuel pump will pressurize for approximately 3
seconds, so this test is simply to eliminate a bad fuel pump as the cause of
your non-start. You will probably read in the neighborhood of 50-60 PSI if the
fuel pump is working.

Test for spark at one of the coil packs. If you have no spark, your ASD
relay is probably not getting a ground.

Following the procedure outlined in the Haynes or Chilton's repair manual
for your car, test your camshaft position sensor and your crankshaft position
sensor. One wire feeds approximately 8 VDC to the sensors, one wire grounds
the sensors, and one wire sends a square wave (approximately 5 VDC) to the
ECM. This test involves “backprobing” the connectors, but you can simply
use a voltmeter and push GENTLY through the wire insulation (if you push too
hard, you'll break the copper wires inside and create a high resistance wire
which will be more of a pain to fix) and test for power and/or ground as
specified by the manual.

Test the ASD relay.

Resistance test terminals 85 and 86. You should read about 75 ohms of
resistance.

Resistance test terminals 87 and 30. They should read open (infinite
resistance).

Jumper terminal 86 of the relay to 12 VDC, and jumper 85 to ground.
Resistance test terminals 87 and 30. You should read continuity (roughly 0
ohms of resistance).

If the relay meets these specifications, the relay is good. If not,
replace the relay.

Test the Fuel Pump Relay using the same procedure as with the ASD
relay (the terminal numbers are the same and the relays operate the same, even
thought the Fuel Pump Relay is narrower).

At this point, you'll have established that you have a good battery, good
power distribution, a good fuel pump, a good crankshaft position sensor, a
good camshaft position sensor, and good ASD and Fuel Pump relays. If your car
still won't start, and you're still reading bad crankshaft and camshaft
position sensor codes, and you're still getting “chattering” ASD and Fuel
Pump relays, it's because the relays are getting an intermittent ground
through the ECM. Most likely your problem is that there is a fault in the
engine wiring harness that has shorted and ruined your PCM. The harness must
be repaired and then the ECM must be replaced. If you just replace the ECM
without repairing the harness, odds are you'll just fry the new one.

To remove the harness, first remove the upper intake manifold. Place clean
rags in the intake holes on the lower intake manifold to prevent debris from
entering the manifold. Disconnect the C1 connector from the ECM (this goes to
the engine, the C2 connects to the PDC). Follow the harness and disconnect it
from the PDC connectors, the alternator, fuel injectors, coil packs, upstream
O2 sensors, throttle body, etc. Note the portion of the engine harness that
passes under the upper radiator hose connection at the lower intake manifold.
On my 300M, the insulation on about half of the wires at this point had been
melted due to the heat from the engine coolant passing through the hose.

Repair the harness. Separate the individual wires from each other. Wire by
wire, cut out any parts that have melted or brittle insulation. Solder and
heat shrink replacement wires into place.

After repairing the damaged portions of the wiring in this section of the
harness, inspect the rest of the harness for cracked, brittle insulation,
melted insulation, chafed insulation, etc. Repair the wires as necessary (this
part took me a couple of evenings in my shop). Inspect all of the connector
plugs for damage, missing lock tabs, or any other damage. You can still get
most of the connectors at a dealer, so replace them as necessary (I found
about half a dozen wires that were chafed at the connector plug and were
probably grounding out on my harness; any of these could have fried my ECM),
although if you need a C1 connector, you're going to have to go to a junkyard
and splice it in (I didn't need one). Use solder and heat shrink, or you'll
just end up redoing the job when your crimped splices corrode out.

After repairing all the wires in your engine harness and replacing any
connectors as necessary, chafe wrap your rebuilt harness. Between Auto Zone,
O'Reilly's and Harbor Freight, I got plenty of 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2” and
3/4” plastic anti-chafe corrugated tubing (or whatever it's called). Chafe
wrap every sensor lead right down to the sensor and secure the chafe wrap with
zip ties. After chafe wrapping the entire harness, use plenty of electrical
tape where sections of chafe wrap meet to secure the sections together.

At this point, you have a harness that's probably better than factory.
Reinstall the harness, rerouting it ABOVE the upper radiator hose and pushed
forward more so you don't get melted wiring again anytime soon from radiated
manifold heat. Reconnect the harness to your ECM (you might get lucky and NOT
have a fried ECM). Try to start the car. If you're still getting the
chattering relays, your PCM is shot. I recommend going to Auto Zone for a new
one. Dodge wanted $500 for the part, plus another $100 to flash program the
ECM; they wanted $900 to install and program the ECM themselves. O'Reilly's
wanted $130 for the ECM, $20 to ship it in from out of state (plus a three-day
wait), and then I'd have to take it to Dodge to flash program it. AutoZone had
the part I needed for $130, and when I went in, I brought in my VIN and my
mileage, they got me the part in three days already flash programmed from the
remanufacturer. It works like a charm, plug-n-play. Just install the part and
you're ready to go.


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