'98 Accord EX, Panel Lights

Hi,

I've recently lost a light behind the odometer. Can anyone tell me how
hard it is to change? It is a LCD display, are they electroluminesent?

Al G

Al G wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I've recently lost a light behind the odometer. Can anyone tell me how
> hard it is to change? It is a LCD display, are they electroluminesent?
>
> Al G

----------------------------------------

www.slhondaparts.com has the exploded view diagrams. You should be able
to get some help there. The instrument cluster may not have to come out.
On some Hondas you can reach WAY up there and just steal one that you
don't depend on temporarily. Be sure to remove jewlery if you try that.
:-)

'Curly'

Thanks.

Al G

"'Curly Q. Links'" > wrote in message
...
> Al G wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I've recently lost a light behind the odometer. Can anyone tell me
>> how
>> hard it is to change? It is a LCD display, are they electroluminesent?
>>
>> Al G
>
> ----------------------------------------
>
> www.slhondaparts.com has the exploded view diagrams. You should be able
> to get some help there. The instrument cluster may not have to come out.
> On some Hondas you can reach WAY up there and just steal one that you
> don't depend on temporarily. Be sure to remove jewlery if you try that.
> :-)
>
> 'Curly'

So weird, I just went out to Google to post a few messages, one being
this exact issue on my 98 Accord EX - and BAM - there is the post - the
exact one first in the list. How common is that?

Anyway, if you figure this out, please post you experiences here.

Al G wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've recently lost a light behind the odometer. Can anyone tell me how
> hard it is to change? It is a LCD display, are they electroluminesent?
>
> Al G

Will do.

Al G


"Billy" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> So weird, I just went out to Google to post a few messages, one being
> this exact issue on my 98 Accord EX - and BAM - there is the post - the
> exact one first in the list. How common is that?
>
> Anyway, if you figure this out, please post you experiences here.
>
> Al G wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I've recently lost a light behind the odometer. Can anyone tell me
>> how
>> hard it is to change? It is a LCD display, are they electroluminesent?
>>
>> Al G
>

This is VERY COMMON. I've replaced mine at least twice (98 EX V6).
Clock backlight is another bad one to fail sooner than others.

It's pretty easy to do though. Here ya go:

1) Stubby phillips. Remove two screws up high in bezel/trim ring.
Hard to see until you lower your line-of-sight. Now, here's the part
where I break something (twice now!). That bezel has 2 plastic
protrusions near the lower corners more or less along the lower
horizontal surface. Each one of these has one of those slip-on
spring-loaded clips on it that holds it in. PULL STRAIGHT OUT
(horizontal) to free the corners/clips. Don't worry if you break or
crack one of the plastic pieces that is out-of sight...try not to,
but...it's nothing some plastic epoxy can't fix...twice :-) Now there
are 2 or 4 screws that hold the cluster to the dash. Easy enough. Now
it's free. Slide the whole thing out a hair and tip the top towards
you. There are three wiring harness plugs that plug in at the top
left, right, and center. Release those and you are good to go. Might
have to finesse the cluster out around from behind the wheel. Take it
out from one side or another, not the top. Adjust the tilt as
necessary.

Oh, and follow the airbag/positive battery cable procedure if you have
any doubts at all.
All told it should take 30 minutes even if you've never gone in there
before. Hope that helps.

Kevin

Thanks, I'll try it. I've already been through the clock light, and the
heater control panel light.

Al G



"FunkyKev" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> This is VERY COMMON. I've replaced mine at least twice (98 EX V6).
> Clock backlight is another bad one to fail sooner than others.
>
> It's pretty easy to do though. Here ya go:
>
> 1) Stubby phillips. Remove two screws up high in bezel/trim ring.
> Hard to see until you lower your line-of-sight. Now, here's the part
> where I break something (twice now!). That bezel has 2 plastic
> protrusions near the lower corners more or less along the lower
> horizontal surface. Each one of these has one of those slip-on
> spring-loaded clips on it that holds it in. PULL STRAIGHT OUT
> (horizontal) to free the corners/clips. Don't worry if you break or
> crack one of the plastic pieces that is out-of sight...try not to,
> but...it's nothing some plastic epoxy can't fix...twice :-) Now there
> are 2 or 4 screws that hold the cluster to the dash. Easy enough. Now
> it's free. Slide the whole thing out a hair and tip the top towards
> you. There are three wiring harness plugs that plug in at the top
> left, right, and center. Release those and you are good to go. Might
> have to finesse the cluster out around from behind the wheel. Take it
> out from one side or another, not the top. Adjust the tilt as
> necessary.
>
> Oh, and follow the airbag/positive battery cable procedure if you have
> any doubts at all.
> All told it should take 30 minutes even if you've never gone in there
> before. Hope that helps.
>
> Kevin
>

What is the the airbag/positive battery cable procedure? Will I take a
chance of getting hit with the airbag if I do not follow? Where do I
find these instructions for the airbag/positive battery cable
procedure?

FunkyKev wrote:
> This is VERY COMMON. I've replaced mine at least twice (98 EX V6).
> Clock backlight is another bad one to fail sooner than others.
>
> It's pretty easy to do though. Here ya go:
>
> 1) Stubby phillips. Remove two screws up high in bezel/trim ring.
> Hard to see until you lower your line-of-sight. Now, here's the part
> where I break something (twice now!). That bezel has 2 plastic
> protrusions near the lower corners more or less along the lower
> horizontal surface. Each one of these has one of those slip-on
> spring-loaded clips on it that holds it in. PULL STRAIGHT OUT
> (horizontal) to free the corners/clips. Don't worry if you break or
> crack one of the plastic pieces that is out-of sight...try not to,
> but...it's nothing some plastic epoxy can't fix...twice :-) Now there
> are 2 or 4 screws that hold the cluster to the dash. Easy enough. Now
> it's free. Slide the whole thing out a hair and tip the top towards
> you. There are three wiring harness plugs that plug in at the top
> left, right, and center. Release those and you are good to go. Might
> have to finesse the cluster out around from behind the wheel. Take it
> out from one side or another, not the top. Adjust the tilt as
> necessary.
>
> Oh, and follow the airbag/positive battery cable procedure if you have
> any doubts at all.
> All told it should take 30 minutes even if you've never gone in there
> before. Hope that helps.
>
> Kevin

Just standard procedure to deactivate the SRS system so that if you
bump something behind the dash with the yellow(?) wiring harness the
airbag doesn't deploy. I've never done it for this procedure, but
when/if in doubt....

Basically, it's remove the POS battery cable and wait...what is it
guys?...wait 2 minutes? It's NOT more than 5 miniutes, that much i
know for sure I think that is correct. Anyone?

KL

You forgot to mention that you have to remove the clock and there is a
screw holding the console behind the clock. Not doing this will
definitely cause some damage.

Nick


On 17 Oct 2006 22:16:22 -0700, "FunkyKev" >
wrote:

>This is VERY COMMON. I've replaced mine at least twice (98 EX V6).
>Clock backlight is another bad one to fail sooner than others.
>
>It's pretty easy to do though. Here ya go:
>
>1) Stubby phillips. Remove two screws up high in bezel/trim ring.
>Hard to see until you lower your line-of-sight. Now, here's the part
>where I break something (twice now!). That bezel has 2 plastic
>protrusions near the lower corners more or less along the lower
>horizontal surface. Each one of these has one of those slip-on
>spring-loaded clips on it that holds it in. PULL STRAIGHT OUT
>(horizontal) to free the corners/clips. Don't worry if you break or
>crack one of the plastic pieces that is out-of sight...try not to,
>but...it's nothing some plastic epoxy can't fix...twice :-) Now there
>are 2 or 4 screws that hold the cluster to the dash. Easy enough. Now
>it's free. Slide the whole thing out a hair and tip the top towards
>you. There are three wiring harness plugs that plug in at the top
>left, right, and center. Release those and you are good to go. Might
>have to finesse the cluster out around from behind the wheel. Take it
>out from one side or another, not the top. Adjust the tilt as
>necessary.
>
>Oh, and follow the airbag/positive battery cable procedure if you have
>any doubts at all.
>All told it should take 30 minutes even if you've never gone in there
>before. Hope that helps.
>
>Kevin