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Audi 200 TQ 10V Lights



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 22nd 05, 02:25 AM posted to alt.autos.audi
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Default Audi 200 TQ 10V Lights

I suspect this is an old topic, but I need to find someone I can buy a
set of Euro lights from, either new or used, for my '90 200 TQ. Also
had an interesting problem with the RPM hanging up for several seconds
during gear shifts. Checked the idle speed control valve and it's
working correctly. Eventually I noticed that the rpm only held up when
the car was moving, even when coasting at 5 mph. Went through the
wiring diagram and found that vehicle speed sensor outputs to among
other things, the idle speed control module in the left kick panel.
Jacked up the car on from all four wheels, ran in gear and checked the
signal with a scope and it's a nice square wave. Wound up cutting the
wire to the module now it works fine. Not sure what the module does
with the vehicle speed...anyone know?

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  #2  
Old December 22nd 05, 05:29 PM posted to alt.autos.audi
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Default Audi 200 TQ 10V Lights

oldjag,
The "usual suspects" for euros, like www.blauparts.com , you might also try
Shokan as the good Type 44's are showing up at the wrecking yards in North
America now with some frequency. You could also post a request on the
Audifans quattro newsgroup or in the Classifieds (If it's not still down).
I installed a set of 5000 non-turbo euros in my 5ktq, and it mates well with
a V8 hood (looks kinda sinister, actually, especially when the car was
resprayed in a near-black Ming Blue Metallic). Import Vision Motorsports in
Cali sell the non-turbo euros made by DEPO (not Bosch or Hella) - lesser
quality but, according to some q-listers, way better than the DOT lights and
cheaper. I have clear corners from them with a 30 LED 2-phase amber bulb in
the clear corners (sockets from a junkyard Mercedes) and turn
signals/parking lights in the corners freeing up the bumper space for
driving lights.
Regarding the idle speed, look to:
http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl.../trouble2.html
Cutting the wire is a "hack" or "bodge" (as it is called over the pond) -
you're "fixing" the symptom and not the problem. I'd go through all of the
checks on Scott's site and find out why the module is keeping the revs up.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ "Streamliner"
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)


"oldjag" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>I suspect this is an old topic, but I need to find someone I can buy a
> set of Euro lights from, either new or used, for my '90 200 TQ. Also
> had an interesting problem with the RPM hanging up for several seconds
> during gear shifts. Checked the idle speed control valve and it's
> working correctly. Eventually I noticed that the rpm only held up when
> the car was moving, even when coasting at 5 mph. Went through the
> wiring diagram and found that vehicle speed sensor outputs to among
> other things, the idle speed control module in the left kick panel.
> Jacked up the car on from all four wheels, ran in gear and checked the
> signal with a scope and it's a nice square wave. Wound up cutting the
> wire to the module now it works fine. Not sure what the module does
> with the vehicle speed...anyone know?
>



  #3  
Old December 23rd 05, 05:25 AM posted to alt.autos.audi
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Default Audi 200 TQ 10V Lights

Actually after reading all of Scott's checks and finding everthing
working as per spec's, I called Scott and discussed the problem. He
was going to look into it further, when he could, to see what the
module is really doing with the vehicle speed input. The Audi manual
of course really doesn't go into the operational logic contained in the
module. Also tried two different albeit, used modules with the same
result, and a known good Idle speed control valve. I've monitored the
current to the control valve while driving and the current to the valve
is getting cranked up way up the instant the accel pedel is released.
This has the effect of holding the RPM at whatever the RPM was before
the pedal was released for about 2 seconds. While not long this is
very annoying. After the ~ two second period ith current drops off,
the engine drops to idle and the engine begins closed loop idle control
with the current within the correct range for idle.

 




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