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specific endplay question



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 26th 05, 10:08 PM
Chronologic
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Default specific endplay question

specific endplay question....

Hello,

I'm a stupid kid who is now a little older and I have pulled my 18 year
old project car out and I want to get it running for my 30 year old
butt to drive. I always wanted the vw for fun and to learn about
something I know nothing about: cars.

So here is the deal, I picked up a '72 super when I was 18 and I got it
with no engine. I got an engine from somewhere else (from a 67 baja
but who knows).

So now I'm a little older and maybe just a tiny bit wiser, but I'm
still clueless. I finally have time in my life to drag the bug back
out of storage and I just pulled the engine, knowing that the problem
is still right there where I left it.

The engine is a 1600 DP, pretty much stock. Back before I went to
college I was trying to cure a "little" oil leak. I just couldn't get
it right, but that was before the internet and I didn't have a lot to
go on. So I pulled the engine 3 times and replaced the rear main seal
-- that WAS definitely where the leak was coming from and I'm still
sure about that. But each time I put it together it seemed to get
worse. I never drove the car much at all, probably only a couple
hundred miles max but I have no idea the history of the engine before
that other than I vaguely recall the guy I bought the baja from saying
it had been rebuilt "recently". My goal is to get the bug street legal
again, and use this engine until I can build up the funds for a good
replacement.

I have been doing a lot of reading (trying to get it right this time)
on the internet and also supplementing with Bently, Haynes, and Muir.
I started wondering if my problem might have been end play all along.
Or at least once I removed the flywheel the first time I maybe didn't
know what I was doing and I screwed it up then. But I know I hardly
drove it at all after attempting to stop the leak, maybe < 5 miles so
if my case is messed up there is a chance it can be saved???? Never
know I guess without looking at it.

Speedy Jim, if you're out there this one is for you.

My real question guys is this: I can tap on the pully crank (gently)
with a mallet and then back on the crank on the other end (flywheel
OFF) and I can see a visible play. I would guess about an 8th of an
inch but I haven't had time to measure yet.

I guess that's supposed to be bad, because 1/8 is way way way bigger
than .005 +- a couple. However, I'm not sure if that's true, since the
flywheel is OFF. That's my question. Should I expect some play with
the flywheel off or should it be pretty tight still? I am really
hoping that it's ok and I can just try to get the endplay good and
tight with new shims and whatnot (~.006 or so) with the flywheel ON. I
am going to attempt to use Muir's "all-thread and a gap feeler" method
unless someone can recommend a better way for the home mechanic aka
poser.

I think my two mistakes were 1 bad endplay and 2 seal flush with the
case (not set in to the back of the groove). that would make the seal
ride up on the flywheel a little. Probably not what is intended. I'm
probably going to get one of those dual lip seals (not really wanting
to do this again) from aircooled.

So please tell me that some play is expected with flywheel off!! If so
I will be sure to get it right when I put it back on and I'll use good
new shims and seals and o-rings and everything. I'll be sure to seat
the new seal in good and tight with the back of the groove. I promise
guys. I really do like my vw really. I'm pretty excited to pull it
out again. I hated putting it away while I got my dumb degree.

Good news????

Thanks,

Chronologic

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  #2  
Old August 26th 05, 10:23 PM
Speedy Jim
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Posts: n/a
Default

Chronologic wrote:
> specific endplay question....
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm a stupid kid who is now a little older


<SNIP>

> "So please tell me that some play is expected with flywheel off!!"



LOL!

Yes, indeedy.

In fact, a LOT of play.

Truth is, you check endplay with the flywheel off.
But too much endplay is the #1 reason for the seal
not working. #2 is not pressing the seal all the way in:-)

Here's what the crank looks like:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/crank.gif

When the flywheel is tightened down (shims not shown),
the crank is held from moving left or right in the bearing.

BUT.....if the bearing is loose in the case, then the
crank AND the bearing can move. This kind of endplay
can NOT be corrected with shims. If the case is worn
where the bearing sits, it *may* be possible to machine
the case and put an oversize bearing in.

Anyway, long story-short, put the flywheel on (hand tight)
and measure the play.

Here is a crude tool you can make:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/ENDPLAY.GIF
Put feeler gauges between the bolt and flywheel to "measure"
the play.

--

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
  #3  
Old August 26th 05, 10:23 PM
Speedy Jim
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Posts: n/a
Default

Vic has a good article on the subject he
http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/crank_end.play.htm


Jim
 




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