71 Ghia battery cables crossed

Had it in for some body work, and the body shop crossed the battery cables.
It was actually driven a few miles with the crossed cables.

A mechanic did have to replace the voltage regulator, and possibly a few
other things.

Question: Could those crossed cables also blow the wiper motor ? It keeps
blowing fuses, and I've been told that it's blowing the fuses because the
wiper motor is defective. Ok, fair enough, but is the bad wiper motor due to
the crossed cables ?

Thanks,

--



Steve Mc

DNA to SBC to respond

What limits current through a motor ( of any description) is the voltage it
generates as it rotates. That "back emf" voltage opposes the applied
voltage and combined with motor resistance limits the current. If the motor
is mechanically jammed there is no rotation , no back emf generated and
there is nothing to limit the current bar the resistance which is quite low.
Thus fuse will blow so make sure the wiper motor is not seized. From memory
( I pulled one to bits about 20 years ago, hope I remember right) they use
a sintered bronze bearing which may need soaking in light oil for 24 hours.
There are also contacts for parking switches which may need cleaning. My gut
feeling is that pulling the wiper motor to bits, cleaning commutator,
soaking bearings, making sure parking switch is ok will resolve problem..
Last thought, check where the wiper arm spindles come through the body.
That also a sleeve bearing which can tighten up and seize motor. Does on T1
and T3,s not sure if KG,s are the same.
Hope that helps
John

On Jan 8, 3:26*am, "John" > wrote:
> What limits current through a motor ( of any description) is the voltage it
> generates as it rotates. *That "back emf" voltage opposes the applied
> voltage and combined with motor resistance limits the current. *If the motor
> is mechanically jammed there is no rotation , no back emf generated and
> there is nothing to limit the current bar the resistance which is quite low.
> Thus fuse will blow so make sure the wiper motor is not seized. From memory
> ( I pulled one to bits about 20 years ago, hope I remember right) *they use
> a sintered bronze bearing which may need soaking in light oil for 24 hours.
> There are also contacts for parking switches which may need cleaning. My gut
> feeling is that pulling the wiper motor to bits, cleaning commutator,
> soaking bearings, making sure parking switch is ok will resolve problem..
> * Last thought, check where the wiper arm spindles come through the body.
> That also a sleeve bearing which can tighten up and seize motor. Does on T1
> and T3,s not sure if KG,s are the same.
> *Hope that helps
> * * * John

If you have an older wiper motor it would behoove you to disconnect/
remove the motor, take it apart, and replace the old caked grease. I
had one that was running slowly and before it fully seized up I
decided to clean it up. I was shocked to realize that the grease
inside had turned to a stiff paste with the consistency of pumice or
partially dried clay. After cleaning the gears and putting in fresh
all temperature lube that works well with nylon gears it ran like a
champ.
KWW
65 Beetle "The Inside Out Cow"
64 Beetle "Blue Wave"

In article
>,
G_Group > wrote:

> On Jan 8, 3:26*am, "John" > wrote:
> > What limits current through a motor ( of any description) is the voltage it
> > generates as it rotates. *That "back emf" voltage opposes the applied
> > voltage and combined with motor resistance limits the current. *If the motor
> > is mechanically jammed there is no rotation , no back emf generated and
> > there is nothing to limit the current bar the resistance which is quite low.
> > Thus fuse will blow so make sure the wiper motor is not seized. From memory
> > ( I pulled one to bits about 20 years ago, hope I remember right) *they use
> > a sintered bronze bearing which may need soaking in light oil for 24 hours.
> > There are also contacts for parking switches which may need cleaning. My gut
> > feeling is that pulling the wiper motor to bits, cleaning commutator,
> > soaking bearings, making sure parking switch is ok will resolve problem..
> > * Last thought, check where the wiper arm spindles come through the body.
> > That also a sleeve bearing which can tighten up and seize motor. Does on T1
> > and T3,s not sure if KG,s are the same.
> > *Hope that helps
> > * * * John
>
> If you have an older wiper motor it would behoove you to disconnect/
> remove the motor, take it apart, and replace the old caked grease. I
> had one that was running slowly and before it fully seized up I
> decided to clean it up. I was shocked to realize that the grease
> inside had turned to a stiff paste with the consistency of pumice or
> partially dried clay. After cleaning the gears and putting in fresh
> all temperature lube that works well with nylon gears it ran like a
> champ.
> KWW
> 65 Beetle "The Inside Out Cow"
> 64 Beetle "Blue Wave"

Yes. it's amazing what happens as time goes by. What surprises does age
bring? How long were these cars designed to last?
--
Karma, What a concept!

G_Group wrote:
> On Jan 8, 3:26 am, "John" > wrote:
>> What limits current through a motor ( of any description) is the voltage it
>> generates as it rotates. That "back emf" voltage opposes the applied
>> voltage and combined with motor resistance limits the current. If the motor
>> is mechanically jammed there is no rotation , no back emf generated and
>> there is nothing to limit the current bar the resistance which is quite low.
>> Thus fuse will blow so make sure the wiper motor is not seized. From memory
>> ( I pulled one to bits about 20 years ago, hope I remember right) they use
>> a sintered bronze bearing which may need soaking in light oil for 24 hours.
>> There are also contacts for parking switches which may need cleaning. My gut
>> feeling is that pulling the wiper motor to bits, cleaning commutator,
>> soaking bearings, making sure parking switch is ok will resolve problem..
>> Last thought, check where the wiper arm spindles come through the body.
>> That also a sleeve bearing which can tighten up and seize motor. Does on T1
>> and T3,s not sure if KG,s are the same.
>> Hope that helps
>> John
>
> If you have an older wiper motor it would behoove you to disconnect/
> remove the motor, take it apart, and replace the old caked grease. I
> had one that was running slowly and before it fully seized up I
> decided to clean it up. I was shocked to realize that the grease
> inside had turned to a stiff paste with the consistency of pumice or
> partially dried clay. After cleaning the gears and putting in fresh
> all temperature lube that works well with nylon gears it ran like a
> champ.
> KWW
> 65 Beetle "The Inside Out Cow"
> 64 Beetle "Blue Wave"


Also disassemble and lube the shafts where they go through the body.
Those bind up with age.

On 09/01/11 03:56, Jan Andersson wrote:
> G_Group wrote:
>> On Jan 8, 3:26 am, "John" > wrote:
>>> Thus fuse will blow so make sure the wiper motor is not seized. From memory
>>> ( I pulled one to bits about 20 years ago, hope I remember right) they use
>>> a sintered bronze bearing which may need soaking in light oil for 24 hours.
>>> There are also contacts for parking switches which may need cleaning. My gut
>>> feeling is that pulling the wiper motor to bits, cleaning commutator,
>>> soaking bearings, making sure parking switch is ok will resolve problem..
>>> Last thought, check where the wiper arm spindles come through the body.
>>> That also a sleeve bearing which can tighten up and seize motor. Does on T1
>>> and T3,s not sure if KG,s are the same.
>>
>> If you have an older wiper motor it would behoove you to disconnect/
>> remove the motor, take it apart, and replace the old caked grease. I
>> had one that was running slowly and before it fully seized up I
>> decided to clean it up. I was shocked to realize that the grease
>> inside had turned to a stiff paste with the consistency of pumice or
>> partially dried clay. After cleaning the gears and putting in fresh
>> all temperature lube that works well with nylon gears it ran like a
>> champ.
>
> Also disassemble and lube the shafts where they go through the body. Those
> bind up with age.

Good advice.

My -63 Ghia had managed to collect all three: Seized bearing, grease was
hardened to almost solid (I had to scrape it away, just wiping wasn't
enough) and both output shafts refused to turn by hand even without wipers
or links, the other wiggled a bit and the other almost unmovable.

Eventually I didn't have to replace anything, non-existent lubrication was
only real reason why the wipers didn't work (and blew the fuse in 10
seconds, every time) and disassembling everything, some sandpapering of the
shafts and motor commutator and lubricating restored it to nicely working order.

Whole operation about three evenings, two for disassembling (shafts taking
the major part of time) and one for cleaning and assembling.

Cost: ~0, just some gas for butane burner, sandpaper and grease
(Beer not included )
Satisfaction: very high, wipers operate like new again
Expected life after repairs: very long, >10 years.

--
Tuomas - VWs:'63 typ14, '65 typ34 & '61 typ2

"VFW," > wrote in message
...
> In article
> >,
> G_Group > wrote:
>
>> On Jan 8, 3:26 am, "John" > wrote:
>> > What limits current through a motor ( of any description) is the
>> > voltage it
>> > generates as it rotates. That "back emf" voltage opposes the applied
>> > voltage and combined with motor resistance limits the current. If the
>> > motor
>> > is mechanically jammed there is no rotation , no back emf generated and
>> > there is nothing to limit the current bar the resistance which is quite
>> > low.
>> > Thus fuse will blow so make sure the wiper motor is not seized. From
>> > memory
>> > ( I pulled one to bits about 20 years ago, hope I remember right) they
>> > use
>> > a sintered bronze bearing which may need soaking in light oil for 24
>> > hours.
>> > There are also contacts for parking switches which may need cleaning.
>> > My gut
>> > feeling is that pulling the wiper motor to bits, cleaning commutator,
>> > soaking bearings, making sure parking switch is ok will resolve
>> > problem..
>> > Last thought, check where the wiper arm spindles come through the body.
>> > That also a sleeve bearing which can tighten up and seize motor. Does
>> > on T1
>> > and T3,s not sure if KG,s are the same.
>> > Hope that helps
>> > John
>>
>> If you have an older wiper motor it would behoove you to disconnect/
>> remove the motor, take it apart, and replace the old caked grease. I
>> had one that was running slowly and before it fully seized up I
>> decided to clean it up. I was shocked to realize that the grease
>> inside had turned to a stiff paste with the consistency of pumice or
>> partially dried clay. After cleaning the gears and putting in fresh
>> all temperature lube that works well with nylon gears it ran like a
>> champ.
>> KWW
>> 65 Beetle "The Inside Out Cow"
>> 64 Beetle "Blue Wave"
>
> Yes. it's amazing what happens as time goes by. What surprises does age
> bring? How long were these cars designed to last?
> --
> Karma, What a concept!

Thanks guys. All the info is very much appreciated.



--



Steve Mc

DNA to SBC to respond