It drives

Granted, it sounded like 8 angry woodpeckers were taking up residence
in the engine bay, but it started, the two warning lights went out,
and I went for a brief drive. It seemed to run okay, and when I stood
on the throttle all 49 and a half ponies sprang to life and I rocketed
to 40 miles an hour in about....10 seconds? Maybe 12. :-) The
important part is that there was no sag, no hesitation, no missing. It
just ran. That was last night, after a throughly crappy day at work.

Tonight I replaced all 8 valve adjuster screws, set the clearance and
started it again. NOW it sounds like a Volkswagen should. No more
loose valves, it just Fweems(tm) like it should, and it idles as
smooth as could be. Thank God. I just hope my workmanship was good
enough to keep the drips away.

Tomorrow a short trip is in order.

Chris

Some times we win.

Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage

http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/TRYKE

On Dec 5, 7:52*pm, " > wrote:
> Granted, it sounded like 8 angry woodpeckers were taking up residence
> in the engine bay, but it started, the two warning lights went out,
> and I went for a brief drive. It seemed to run okay, and when I stood
> on the throttle all 49 and a half ponies sprang to life and I rocketed
> to 40 miles an hour in about....10 seconds? Maybe 12. :-) The
> important part is that there was no sag, no hesitation, no missing. It
> just ran. That was last night, after a throughly crappy day at work.
>
> Tonight I replaced all 8 valve adjuster screws, set the clearance and
> started it again. NOW it sounds like a Volkswagen should. No more
> loose valves, it just Fweems(tm) like it should, and it idles as
> smooth as could be. Thank God. I just hope my workmanship was good
> enough to keep the drips away.
>
> Tomorrow a short trip is in order.
>
> Chris

Forgive my ignorance. But why would you need to replace the adjuster
screws? How can one tell if they go bad? How would they go bad? If
they wear out from contact can't you just simply screw them in some
more?

> wrote ...

> Forgive my ignorance. But why would you need to replace the adjuster
> screws? How can one tell if they go bad? How would they go bad? If
> they wear out from contact can't you just simply screw them in some
> more?


Bob Hoover explains why he
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.a...d7149bcc?hl=en

--
Scott

Make sure that the cylinder head nuts are properly torqued!
I usually check these before the valve adjustments, at least the lower ones.

I might have to try Bob Hoover's information one of these days. ;-)
I used to keep new adjuster screws in stock, but now I would not know where
they are anymore. I just don't see air cooled much anymore. :-(
--
later,
(One out of many daves)


"Scott H" > wrote in message
...
> > wrote ...
>
>> Forgive my ignorance. But why would you need to replace the adjuster
>> screws? How can one tell if they go bad? How would they go bad? If
>> they wear out from contact can't you just simply screw them in some
>> more?
>
>
> Bob Hoover explains why he
> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.a...d7149bcc?hl=en
>
> --
> Scott
>
>
>

>
> Forgive my ignorance. But why would you need to replace the adjuster
> screws? How can one tell if they go bad? How would they go bad? If
> they wear out from contact can't you just simply screw them in some
> more?

If you look at a new one, you'll see that the tip that contacts the
valve stem has a convex surface. Over time that surface gets pounded
down, and of course when you adjust the valves you turn the screw
enough that it probably contacts an unworn part of the screw tip, but
eventually the screw will get pounded flat on the end. Once that
happens you should replace the screw. Mine were flattened and showing
some pitting on the friction surface, so I replaced them.

Chris