ABS and Anti Sked Warnings

While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came on the
DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.

I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I took it
to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it is
called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front wheel
sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did but as
soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The
Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I would
have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the
wheel sensor.

Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder
what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an
expensive repair.

"aRKay" > wrote in message
...
> While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came on
> the
> DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.
>
> I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I took
> it
> to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it is
> called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front wheel
> sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did but
> as
> soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The
> Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I would
> have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the
> wheel sensor.
>
> Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder
> what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an
> expensive repair.

I can't tell you why it would be an expensive repair other than you
have it at a GM dealership. Have you had any tire work done lately? As
far as the code I have found that a big percentage of problems on the
Corvette are from bad grounds. Check and clean those before you do
anything. On top of the frame rail just forward of the front wheels
centerline. One screw, many wires each side, I'd have to look up the
rest of them but I no longer have a C5 FSM.

In article >,
"Dad" > wrote:

> "aRKay" > wrote in message
> ...
> > While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came on
> > the
> > DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.
> >
> > I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I took
> > it
> > to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it is
> > called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front wheel
> > sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did but
> > as
> > soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The
> > Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I would
> > have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the
> > wheel sensor.
> >
> > Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder
> > what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an
> > expensive repair.
>
> I can't tell you why it would be an expensive repair other than you
> have it at a GM dealership. Have you had any tire work done lately? As
> far as the code I have found that a big percentage of problems on the
> Corvette are from bad grounds. Check and clean those before you do
> anything. On top of the frame rail just forward of the front wheels
> centerline. One screw, many wires each side, I'd have to look up the
> rest of them but I no longer have a C5 FSM.

RR on the recent tire work. Just had the two front tires replaced a few
weeks ago.

Sure would like to see an IPB showing the screw with many wires attached.

"aRKay" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Dad" > wrote:
>
>> "aRKay" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came
>> > on
>> > the
>> > DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.
>> >
>> > I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I
>> > took
>> > it
>> > to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it
>> > is
>> > called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front
>> > wheel
>> > sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did
>> > but
>> > as
>> > soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The
>> > Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I
>> > would
>> > have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the
>> > wheel sensor.
>> >
>> > Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder
>> > what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an
>> > expensive repair.
>>
>> I can't tell you why it would be an expensive repair other than you
>> have it at a GM dealership. Have you had any tire work done lately?
>> As
>> far as the code I have found that a big percentage of problems on
>> the
>> Corvette are from bad grounds. Check and clean those before you do
>> anything. On top of the frame rail just forward of the front wheels
>> centerline. One screw, many wires each side, I'd have to look up
>> the
>> rest of them but I no longer have a C5 FSM.
>
> RR on the recent tire work. Just had the two front tires replaced a
> few
> weeks ago.
>
> Sure would like to see an IPB showing the screw with many wires
> attached.

I have a CD (PDF) with all the parts for '97-'00 but not the, '01
which I do think are the same as the '00. You have a safe email I can
send a picture to?

Myself I would go back to the people that did the tire change and ask
them to show you why it was not their fault. First question I would
ask is if they used the jacking points and the pucks.

In article >,
"Dad" > wrote:

> "aRKay" > wrote in message
> ...
> > In article >,
> > "Dad" > wrote:
> >
> >> "aRKay" > wrote in message
> >> ...
> >> > While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came
> >> > on
> >> > the
> >> > DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.
> >> >
> >> > I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I
> >> > took
> >> > it
> >> > to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it
> >> > is
> >> > called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front
> >> > wheel
> >> > sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did
> >> > but
> >> > as
> >> > soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The
> >> > Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I
> >> > would
> >> > have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the
> >> > wheel sensor.
> >> >
> >> > Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder
> >> > what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an
> >> > expensive repair.
> >>
> >> I can't tell you why it would be an expensive repair other than you
> >> have it at a GM dealership. Have you had any tire work done lately?
> >> As
> >> far as the code I have found that a big percentage of problems on
> >> the
> >> Corvette are from bad grounds. Check and clean those before you do
> >> anything. On top of the frame rail just forward of the front wheels
> >> centerline. One screw, many wires each side, I'd have to look up
> >> the
> >> rest of them but I no longer have a C5 FSM.
> >
> > RR on the recent tire work. Just had the two front tires replaced a
> > few
> > weeks ago.
> >
> > Sure would like to see an IPB showing the screw with many wires
> > attached.
>
> I have a CD (PDF) with all the parts for '97-'00 but not the, '01
> which I do think are the same as the '00. You have a safe email I can
> send a picture to?

The pdf should be good. Please email to arkay at qsl.net

>
> Myself I would go back to the people that did the tire change and ask
> them to show you why it was not their fault. First question I would
> ask is if they used the jacking points and the pucks.

I called but tires were changed in March so that probably had nothing to
do with the problem. Called a non dealer and he has seen the problem
before and indicated the sensor is in the wheel bearing assembly and it
failure mode is to say it is open. Replacing the wheel bearing assembly
sounded expensive $500 to $600.

"aRKay" > wrote in message
...
Snip
>
> I called but tires were changed in March so that probably had
> nothing to
> do with the problem. Called a non dealer and he has seen the problem
> before and indicated the sensor is in the wheel bearing assembly and
> it
> failure mode is to say it is open. Replacing the wheel bearing
> assembly
> sounded expensive $500 to $600.

New Timken wheel bearing assembly with sensors $160. Not much harder
than changing 2 tires/wheels. Remove wheel, remove brake caliper,
disconnect sensor wire, remove rotor, save the clips if you can,
remove three socket head cap screws from back of A frame, replace
bearing assembly and reverse above.

You can use a wooden block to keep the brake shoes in position and
then slide it out as you replace the caliper. Good time to check your
brake pads.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...r%2BR OCKAUTO

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1117089

Check your trouble code before you go throwing parts at it.
There is a combination that can get the DIC to show any codes the car
has thrown without autotap, etc.

That combination is as follows:
• Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but do not start the car.
• Clear any pre-set messages by pressing the RESET button.
• Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times.
This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will
automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will
cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a
code that was registered previously but is no longer an issue.
• Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes,
press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a
module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES".
• To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold
RESET until it displays "NO CODES".
• Press OPTIONS button to go to the next module.

"Dad" wrote in message ...


"aRKay" > wrote in message
...
Snip
>
> I called but tires were changed in March so that probably had nothing to
> do with the problem. Called a non dealer and he has seen the problem
> before and indicated the sensor is in the wheel bearing assembly and it
> failure mode is to say it is open. Replacing the wheel bearing assembly
> sounded expensive $500 to $600.

New Timken wheel bearing assembly with sensors $160. Not much harder
than changing 2 tires/wheels. Remove wheel, remove brake caliper,
disconnect sensor wire, remove rotor, save the clips if you can,
remove three socket head cap screws from back of A frame, replace
bearing assembly and reverse above.

You can use a wooden block to keep the brake shoes in position and
then slide it out as you replace the caliper. Good time to check your
brake pads.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...r%2BR OCKAUTO

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1117089

Check your trouble code before you go throwing parts at it.
There is a combination that can get the DIC to show any codes the car
has thrown without autotap, etc.

That combination is as follows:
• Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but do not start the car.
• Clear any pre-set messages by pressing the RESET button.
• Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times.
This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will
automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will
cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a
code that was registered previously but is no longer an issue.
• Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes,
press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a
module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES".
• To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold
RESET until it displays "NO CODES".
• Press OPTIONS button to go to the next module.
_______________________

All of which makes me sort of nostalgic for the days when I could see a
motor instead of a bunch of plastic shrouds and a couple of places to add
some fluids. At least in my 'Vette I can see the heads, the manifolds ,
some wires and a bunch of hoses.

I had to have the sunroof fixed under warranty on the '08 Acura TL and they
gave me new TL for a loaner. I took a look under the hood and wondered
where the engine was.

AJM
'93 40th Anniversary coupe, 6 sp (both tops)

"CardsFan" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> "Dad" wrote in message
> ...
>
>
> "aRKay" > wrote in message
> ...
> Snip
>>
>> I called but tires were changed in March so that probably had
>> nothing to
>> do with the problem. Called a non dealer and he has seen the
>> problem
>> before and indicated the sensor is in the wheel bearing assembly
>> and it
>> failure mode is to say it is open. Replacing the wheel bearing
>> assembly
>> sounded expensive $500 to $600.
>
> New Timken wheel bearing assembly with sensors $160. Not much harder
> than changing 2 tires/wheels. Remove wheel, remove brake caliper,
> disconnect sensor wire, remove rotor, save the clips if you can,
> remove three socket head cap screws from back of A frame, replace
> bearing assembly and reverse above.
>
> You can use a wooden block to keep the brake shoes in position and
> then slide it out as you replace the caliper. Good time to check
> your
> brake pads.
>
> https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...r%2BR OCKAUTO
>
> http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1117089
>
> Check your trouble code before you go throwing parts at it.
> There is a combination that can get the DIC to show any codes the
> car
> has thrown without autotap, etc.
>
> That combination is as follows:
> • Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but do not start the
> car.
> • Clear any pre-set messages by pressing the RESET button.
> • Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times.
> This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer
> will
> automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will
> cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is
> a
> code that was registered previously but is no longer an issue.
> • Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes,
> press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with
> a
> module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES".
> • To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold
> RESET until it displays "NO CODES".
> • Press OPTIONS button to go to the next module.
> _______________________
>
> All of which makes me sort of nostalgic for the days when I could
> see a motor instead of a bunch of plastic shrouds and a couple of
> places to add some fluids. At least in my 'Vette I can see the
> heads, the manifolds , some wires and a bunch of hoses.
>
> I had to have the sunroof fixed under warranty on the '08 Acura TL
> and they gave me new TL for a loaner. I took a look under the hood
> and wondered where the engine was.
>
> AJM
> '93 40th Anniversary coupe, 6 sp (both tops)
>
The really good thing about your '93 is you can check the trouble
codes with a bobby pin, ain't life grand?

As far as being able to see some of your engine I can see the ground
when I open the hood on the '64. It gets even better on the '50 Chevy,
I can throw a cat through there and not hit anything. Trouble codes?
We don't need no stinking trouble codes.

On 8/24/2011 12:37 PM, aRKay wrote:
> While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came on the
> DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.
>
> I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I took it
> to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it is
> called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front wheel
> sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did but as
> soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The
> Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I would
> have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the
> wheel sensor.
>
> Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder
> what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an
> expensive repair.
What code(s) are you getting on the DTC? If you see a 1214, the culprit
may be a faulty relay inside the ABS unit. I had mine fail and I used
absfixer.com and get it completely resolved for $150. Dealer wanted
$1400. Another place to look is the large harness going to the ABS unit
and see if the clip-over handle has come loose and you are getting a
disconnect there. my two cents.
FBNE

In article >,
FBNE > wrote:

> On 8/24/2011 12:37 PM, aRKay wrote:
> > While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came on the
> > DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.
> >
> > I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I took it
> > to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it is
> > called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front wheel
> > sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did but as
> > soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The
> > Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I would
> > have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the
> > wheel sensor.
> >
> > Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder
> > what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an
> > expensive repair.
> What code(s) are you getting on the DTC? If you see a 1214, the culprit
> may be a faulty relay inside the ABS unit. I had mine fail and I used
> absfixer.com and get it completely resolved for $150. Dealer wanted
> $1400. Another place to look is the large harness going to the ABS unit
> and see if the clip-over handle has come loose and you are getting a
> disconnect there. my two cents.
> FBNE


I cleared the codes twice and used two different Tech II tools. They
both say the same thing. Left Front Wheel Sensor Open. Per a good
tip from Dad I have a LF Bearing Assembly (with wheel sensor) ordered
and riding around with FedEX. It may show up on 7-Aug late in the
evening. Stay tuned.