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What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?



 
 
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  #371  
Old November 6th 17, 04:08 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
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Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

On Mon, 06 Nov 2017 02:36:44 -0800, Vic Smith
> wrote:

>On Mon, 06 Nov 2017 02:57:16 -0500, wrote:
>
>
>> Only the stop-tech article is written by a pro (Can't open the
>>raybestos link so it's useless)

>
>That "pro" says to replace brake fluid once a year.
>I wonder how many people do that.
>I never replace brake fluid unless I've got the system open.

I generally did when doing any major brake work (drums, rotors, pads
or shes) - just s thorough bleed.
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  #372  
Old November 6th 17, 04:16 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
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Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

On Tue, 7 Nov 2017 00:32:45 +1100, Xeno >
wrote:


>>
>> The internet doesn't show EVERYTHING. What you know comes from the
>> web. What I know comes from tears in the trade (including teaching the
>> trade)

>
>Teaching the trade, yes, bound to cause tears at times.


Took tech courses at high school - not typing!! - but you are right.
Tears of frustration
>>>

Snipped
>>> Which is why I wish I had done these half-dozen jobs:
>>> 1. Alignment
>>> 2. Transmission
>>> 3. Engine
>>> 4. Tires
>>> 5. paint

>>
>> Ond I've dome them all at least once.

>
>Done hundreds and hundreds of alignments.


Likewize. Thousands of tires. likely at least a hundred transmissions
of different stripes, and between total rebuilds, head jobs, timing
chains, and other major internal work, several hundred engines.


SNIPP


>> You have references I have experience.

>
>Ditto. Been there, measured that. ;-)


  #373  
Old November 6th 17, 04:17 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
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Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

On Tue, 7 Nov 2017 00:35:45 +1100, Xeno >
wrote:

>On 6/11/2017 7:02 PM, wrote:
>> On Mon, 6 Nov 2017 04:48:30 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>
>>>> Any scoring on a rotor will fail it. As you say, there might be less
>>>> than 50% of the pad surface in contact with the rotor surface. No way
>>>> will that bed in properly. You will get localised overheating both on
>>>> the pad and on the rotor.
>>>
>>> I'm not gonna argue vehemently because, in practice, while I've seen those
>>> "wavy" rotors too, my rotors tend to be smooth so I don't deal with
>>> "scoring".
>>>
>>> However, anyone who says "any scoring of rotors will fail it" has NOT looke
>>> up the manufacturer's spec for scoring tests.
>>>
>>> I have. Long ago.
>>>
>>> The result was shockingly huge.
>>>
>>> I don't remember the actual number but I remember being shocked at how huge
>>> it is. Something like tens of thousanths of an inch in width huge.
>>>
>>> We're talking Grand Canyon in rotors.
>>>
>>> I may be wrong but if someone says "any" scoring, that's just preposterous.
>>> Let's see a manufacturer's spec for anyone who says that.
>>>
>>> Sorry. It's just not logical that 'any' scoring fails a rotor.

>> ANY mechanical damage fails the rotor on DOT test. Some smoth wear is
>> allowed - but you NEVER install new pads on rotors that have an uneven
>> friction surface because it is virtually impossible to properly bed
>> the new pads to the uneven rotor withot localized overheating

>
>Exactly. The new pads will charcoal grill on the high spots and *never*
>properly bed in.
>>
>> At the price of rotors today even on your Bimmer, it just is not
>> worth it. The pads cost more than the rotors on MOST vehicles today.
>> No reputable shop will do it because comebacks are expensive - and
>> real mechanics KNOW the comebacks will happen if they do something
>> stupid like installing new pads on badly worn rotors.
>>

>Brake pulling is most likely as the most grooved disc will have less
>surface contact.

Untill it does finally totally wear in - when it will have more - so
either way you can't win with grooved/worn rotors.
  #374  
Old November 6th 17, 04:19 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
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Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

On Tue, 7 Nov 2017 00:44:59 +1100, Xeno >
wrote:

>On 6/11/2017 8:44 PM, wrote:
>> On Mon, 6 Nov 2017 17:23:01 +1100, Xeno >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 6/11/2017 3:49 PM, RS Wood wrote:
>>>> Xeno wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>> I have Toyotas precisely because they have a chain.
>>>>>> Some do, some don't. (perhaps today they all do - not sure)
>>>>>>
>>>>> The ones I buy sure do! ;-)
>>>>
>>>> Two vehicles that are worthless to me:
>>>> 1. FWD
>>>> 2. Belt
>>>>
>>> The past half dozen cars I've had have been FWD. I don't have a problem
>>> with them. My first FWD car was a Morris Mini back in 74 and I have had
>>> heaps of them since. Had heaps of RWD cars too. Totals in the hundreds.

>> 2 mechanics/trade school instrctors who drove Morris Minis ----
>>

>First car was a Hillman Minx. Had a few before I bought the mini. 850cc
>of raw power, 70 mph with a tail wind and a downhill run.

Thats a GOOD tailwind and a GOOD downhill. My 850 was the only car
I've owned that would go faster in third than in forth - and I owned a
'49 split-window bug. The mini was faster, but the bug could hold it's
own in top gear.
  #375  
Old November 6th 17, 04:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
RS Wood[_2_]
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Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

> Doubt you'll believe it anyway.
>
> https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/what-is-brake-fade/


It's marketing bull**** and it's track related, but it has nuggets inside
it just like all bull**** does.

For example, it's interesting they don't mention the rotor (but of course,
they're selling pads) when they say "Brake fade is caused by overheating of
the brake pad".

It's also interesting they talk about 'green fade' which makes sense since
a more complex look at friction reveals that there is a microlayer of pad
deposition on the rotor which "covalently bonds" in a way that I don't
completely understand, with the hot pad, where *breaking* those chemical
bonds adds to friction but only after a good bedding occurs.

They skip all that, and concentrate on water, surface area, and volatiles,
but I think the early fade is due more to the lack of covalent bonding than
anything else.

I gotta run so I'll get back to this, but it's a typical marketing job
trying to make believe they're being scientific when they don't mention
even once the pad ratings nor the word "warp", but I have to go before I
finished it as I have to pick someone up at the airport.
  #376  
Old November 6th 17, 04:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
RS Wood[_2_]
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Posts: 191
Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

Xeno wrote:

>> I don't disagree that an automatic is a completely different thing to
>> rebuild than a manual would be for a typical rebuild.
>>

> Far more than most people realise. Even more complex now that trans
> operation is integrated with a TCU and the ECU.


When I listed transmission in the original post, I meant manual, and
specifically I meant clutch which, as you know better than I do, means a
few more parts like
a. clutch
b. pressure plate
c. pilot and throwout
d. slave and master
e. flywheel

I'm not sure what else offhand, but had I just done the job once, I'd know.

I think the only "special" tools needed are a transmission jack and the
tools to align the clutch and pull out the old bearings where people jury
rig all sorts of solutions but where I'd likely buy the right tool.

Seems to me the special tools are about $200 to $300 at most, which is
about what the labor costs would be. And the job isn't like an alignment
where you have to do a lot more than normal thinking.

Maybe some day I'll do it but probably never.
I lost my chance, and I regret that.
  #377  
Old November 6th 17, 04:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
RS Wood[_2_]
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Posts: 191
Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

Vic Smith wrote:

>> Only the stop-tech article is written by a pro (Can't open the
>>raybestos link so it's useless)

>
> That "pro" says to replace brake fluid once a year.
> I wonder how many people do that.
> I never replace brake fluid unless I've got the system open.


I agree with you that the so-called "pros" say a lot of things that are
pure horse****, but usually they're just super overly conservative (like
have your tires balanced every 10K miles or something like that).

You can't call them "wrong" but you can say "nobody does that".

I would agree with you on two things related to those articles:
a. I don't agree with everything they say (they don't even agree with each
other).
b. But the net is that what most people call warp isn't warp at all.

There are few technical car topics on the net more filled with bull****
than rotor warp for street cars.

Nobody who says they have seen warp ever proves a single word they say.
That's a fact.

Just try to find a picture or video of someone testing their rotors for
warp (not runout!) and you'll see my point.

I'm done with warp because I provided references and I said it "can" happen
but it's not happening in 99.9999999% of the cases.

Anyone who wants to dispute the references need only provide a reference.
  #378  
Old November 6th 17, 04:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
RS Wood[_2_]
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Posts: 191
Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

wrote:

> ANY mechanical damage fails the rotor on DOT test. Some smoth wear is
> allowed - but you NEVER install new pads on rotors that have an uneven
> friction surface because it is virtually impossible to properly bed
> the new pads to the uneven rotor withot localized overheating
>
> At the price of rotors today even on your Bimmer, it just is not
> worth it. The pads cost more than the rotors on MOST vehicles today.
> No reputable shop will do it because comebacks are expensive - and
> real mechanics KNOW the comebacks will happen if they do something
> stupid like installing new pads on badly worn rotors.


Rotors are cheap. $50 for Brembo or Myle.
I measure runout. I measure thickness. I measure thickness variation.
I look at scoring. I look up the specs when I need them.

In practice, it's pretty simple:
1. Replace the OEM Jurid/Textar pads with $35 Axxis/PBR FF equivalents.
2. Measure the thickness of the existing rotor
3. If it's too thin, replace with Meyle/Brembo for $50/wheel

I don't blame any shop for replacing *everything* they can.
The more they replace, the more they make and the less people come back.

That's just logic.
  #379  
Old November 6th 17, 04:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
RS Wood[_2_]
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Posts: 191
Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

Xeno wrote:

> The pads on my car(s) have both long life and good braking ability. Did
> I mention they don't squeal too. They are the OEM Toyota pads that came
> with the car and that's what they will be replaced with.


The only time you don't have to mention the friction rating is when you
purchase OEM pads. Otherwise, the friction rating is critical to mention.

I have nothing against OEM anything, but in the case of the bimmer, the FF
Jurid pads in the front make a black dust that is objectionable.

For some reason, which I don't believe the marketing of, the PBR/Axxis FF
pads don't have that objectionable dust.

Nobody has ever given a good answer since "dustless" doesn't cut it.

All pads and rotors must dust. So we just assume that the dust from
Axxis/PBR pads is not as objectionable as the dust from the OEM Jurid pads.

Both stop as well as indicated by the FF rating for both.
  #380  
Old November 6th 17, 04:20 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.repair
RS Wood[_2_]
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Posts: 191
Default What are some car-repair jobs you always wished you could do but have never done?

wrote:

> Not hard to understand at all. Uneven friction causes uneven heating,
> and localized overheating causes enhanced friction material transfer -
> which just cascades.


That must be it because you don't feel the effect of the primary pad
imprint. You only feel the effect over time when it builds up to enough of
the teeniest tinyiest amount to make the shuddering occur at speed.

My main point is that if people think their brakes actually 'warped' (ad in
a potato chip), the short term solution always works but their long term
solution can't possibly work.

The long term solution is, most of the time, to change their braking
habits. Until they realize that their brake rotors didn't warp, they won't
realize that the long term solution is what it is.

To me, that's the crime of people thinking their brakes actually warped.

> Short term? Gently re-bed the pads. Works high percentage of the
> time if you don't allow it to get progressively worse to the point you
> get cabide inclusions in the rotors.


I know. I know.
But I was summarizing.

You can scrape the deposit off a bunch of free and easy ways.
1. Easiest is to run the re-bedding procedure
2. Easy but harder than that is to put some scratchy pads on
3. Harder than those two by far is to have them machined or replaced

I do what you do, which is I rebed them which is easily enough done if you
have a long downhill straightaway with no traffic or a highway straightaway
with no traffic.

In summary, the *crime* of people believing that the rotors actually warped
is that they never implement the correct long term solution. So they're
constantly complaining that their rotors warped.
 




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