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#1
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Need to replace thermo switch and thermostat in 95 Civic
I believe I've got a bad thermo switch/sensor in my 1995 Honda Civic LX. The
radiator fan does not come on when the AC is switched on (though the compressor fan works okay). I checked the fan relay by putting 12VDC across the coil and I hear a click, plus I get continuity across the contacts. I've bent the pins in case the socket connection is bad. Shorting out the contacts in the fan relay socket causes the fan to come on, so the fan itself is okay. That's the disgnostic work I've done so far. Thanks to Tegger's FAQ, I've been able to locate the thermo switch, but I cannot figure out how to remove the connector for testing purposes. It's rotated in such a way that I can't see do undo the connector, and help here? Aside from the connector, are there any pitfalls I should know about when replace the thermo switch? It's fairly easy to get to, so I should be able to do it myself. Also would like to change the thermostat, but never having done that I need some assistance. First, in locating it. Then in determine what type it is (med temp/high temp) and removal procedure. I've read that on later model Honda's it's on the lower radiator hose but I can't see it. |
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#2
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> > The thermostat is at the TOP of the engine, where the heat goes. The lower > hose is a long, snaky thing that goes from the bottom of the rad to the > thermostat housing. Follow the hose from the rad to the other end and there > it is. > > WORD OF WARNING: > DO NOT INSTALL AN AFTERMARKET THERMOSTAT. Those things are much too likely > to cause you no end of grief. An OEM (and gasket) is less than $20. > > There is only one rating of OEM: 90C/194F. DO NOT install a cooler one! I'm confused. I was thinking that was the thermo switch/sensor, since it labeled such on the FAQ: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/overh...ndex/index.htm (photo next to "Thermo Sensor Check") Are the thermo sensor/thermostat one and the same? Also, tnx for the tip on using an OEM part, I'll be sure to do that. |
#3
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>
> Does the rad fan come on when the engine has been in heavy traffic for 5 > minutes? > > Warm it up all the way, take it to a quiet side street somewhere, and then > simulate heavy stop-and-go "inch forward" traffic for 5 minutes. If your > fan is not coming on, the temp gauge will begin to rise. I forgot to answer this part -- no the rad fan does not come on, whether driving at speed for a while or stop-and-go. The temp guage doesn't rise to much, no more than 1/3 of the way up. |
#4
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Incorrect,
my Acura Vigor price for the thermostat was 86$ sale price, 110$ regular price. Plus 11$ for gasket! 15$ at Canadian Tire... I still bought the OEM. Adrian "TeGGer®" > wrote in message ... > "DesignGuy" > wrote in > news:PH8Qd.70$tl3.28@attbi_s02: > >> I believe I've got a bad thermo switch/sensor in my 1995 Honda Civic >> LX. The radiator fan does not come on when the AC is switched on >> (though the compressor fan works okay). I checked the fan relay by >> putting 12VDC across the coil and I hear a click, plus I get >> continuity across the contacts. I've bent the pins in case the socket >> connection is bad. Shorting out the contacts in the fan relay socket >> causes the fan to come on, so the fan itself is okay. That's the >> disgnostic work I've done so far. > > > > Does the rad fan come on when the engine has been in heavy traffic for 5 > minutes? > > Warm it up all the way, take it to a quiet side street somewhere, and then > simulate heavy stop-and-go "inch forward" traffic for 5 minutes. If your > fan is not coming on, the temp gauge will begin to rise. > > >> >> Thanks to Tegger's FAQ, I've been able to locate the thermo switch, >> but I cannot figure out how to remove the connector for testing >> purposes. It's rotated in such a way that I can't see do undo the >> connector, and help here? >> >> Aside from the connector, are there any pitfalls I should know about >> when replace the thermo switch? It's fairly easy to get to, so I >> should be able to do it myself. >> >> Also would like to change the thermostat, but never having done that I >> need some assistance. First, in locating it. Then in determine what >> type it is (med temp/high temp) and removal procedure. I've read that >> on later model Honda's it's on the lower radiator hose but I can't see >> it. > > > > The thermostat is at the TOP of the engine, where the heat goes. The lower > hose is a long, snaky thing that goes from the bottom of the rad to the > thermostat housing. Follow the hose from the rad to the other end and > there > it is. > > WORD OF WARNING: > DO NOT INSTALL AN AFTERMARKET THERMOSTAT. Those things are much too likely > to cause you no end of grief. An OEM (and gasket) is less than $20. > > There is only one rating of OEM: 90C/194F. DO NOT install a cooler one! > > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#5
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DesignGuy wrote: > I believe I've got a bad thermo switch/sensor in my 1995 Honda Civic LX. The > radiator fan does not come on when the AC is switched on (though the > compressor fan works okay). I checked the fan relay by putting 12VDC across > the coil and I hear a click, plus I get continuity across the contacts. I've > bent the pins in case the socket connection is bad. Shorting out the > contacts in the fan relay socket causes the fan to come on, so the fan > itself is okay. That's the disgnostic work I've done so far. > > Thanks to Tegger's FAQ, I've been able to locate the thermo switch, but I > cannot figure out how to remove the connector for testing purposes. It's > rotated in such a way that I can't see do undo the connector, and help here? > > Aside from the connector, are there any pitfalls I should know about when > replace the thermo switch? It's fairly easy to get to, so I should be able > to do it myself. > > Also would like to change the thermostat, but never having done that I need > some assistance. First, in locating it. Then in determine what type it is > (med temp/high temp) and removal procedure. I've read that on later model > Honda's it's on the lower radiator hose but I can't see it. The connector to the thermo switch has "lock" that must be raised about 1/16 of an inch before it can be unpluged. You may have to back the thermo switch a quarter turn or so to get to this "lock". The thermostat is a couple of inches to the right of the thermo switch an a bit higher. Be aware that there is still antifreeze in this part of the engine even after you drain the radiator. See Tegger's FAQ under radiator does not come on by REMCO for a lot of good data. Ernie |
#6
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DesignGuy wrote: > > > > The thermostat is at the TOP of the engine, where the heat goes. The lower > > hose is a long, snaky thing that goes from the bottom of the rad to the > > thermostat housing. Follow the hose from the rad to the other end and > there > > it is. > > > > WORD OF WARNING: > > DO NOT INSTALL AN AFTERMARKET THERMOSTAT. Those things are much too likely > > to cause you no end of grief. An OEM (and gasket) is less than $20. > > > > There is only one rating of OEM: 90C/194F. DO NOT install a cooler one! > > > I'm confused. I was thinking that was the thermo switch/sensor, since it > labeled such on the FAQ: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/overh...ndex/index.htm > (photo next to "Thermo Sensor Check") > > Are the thermo sensor/thermostat one and the same? > > Also, tnx for the tip on using an OEM part, I'll be sure to do that. DG, in your post refering to the photo in "Thermo Sensor Check" The brass colored Sensor is the Thermo Switch. The wires under the bolt to the right are ground wires. The bolt there holds the cover to the thermostat, the hose on the right side of the picture is the lower radiator hose. Remove this hose and another bolt(or two) and the cover for the thermostat comes off. |
#7
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> > The connector to the thermo switch has "lock" that must be raised about > 1/16 of an inch before it can be unpluged. You may have to back the > thermo > switch a quarter turn or so to get to this "lock". The thermostat is a > couple > of inches to the right of the thermo switch an a bit higher. Be aware > that > there is still antifreeze in this part of the engine even after you > drain > the radiator. See Tegger's FAQ under radiator does not come on by > REMCO > for a lot of good data. > Ernie > Thanks, Ernie. I lifted the tab with a screwdriver and it popped right off. I ended up running a wire from the thermo switch connector to ground, so the radiator fan stays on when the car is running. I've already purchased the replacement thermo switch, but need to go back and get a wrench big enough to put it on. One other thing I noticed was that the radiator was under pressure even after 2-3 hours of sitting. Attempting to remove the rad cap cause coolant to squirt out. I would have though any pressure would have dissipated during that time. |
#8
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Nightdude wrote:
> Incorrect, > > my Acura Vigor price for the thermostat was 86$ sale price, 110$ regular > price. Plus 11$ for gasket! damn. ida taken it out, got a part number off it then cross-referenced online. its almost gotta be shared with something else. then again, thats the wacky 5 cyl, huh? |
#9
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DesignGuy wrote: > > > > The connector to the thermo switch has "lock" that must be raised about > > 1/16 of an inch before it can be unpluged. You may have to back the > > thermo > > switch a quarter turn or so to get to this "lock". The thermostat is a > > couple > > of inches to the right of the thermo switch an a bit higher. Be aware > > that > > there is still antifreeze in this part of the engine even after you > > drain > > the radiator. See Tegger's FAQ under radiator does not come on by > > REMCO > > for a lot of good data. > > Ernie > > > > Thanks, Ernie. I lifted the tab with a screwdriver and it popped right off. > > I ended up running a wire from the thermo switch connector to ground, so the > radiator fan stays on when the car is running. I've already purchased the > replacement thermo switch, but need to go back and get a wrench big enough > to put it on. > > One other thing I noticed was that the radiator was under pressure even > after 2-3 hours of sitting. Attempting to remove the rad cap cause coolant > to squirt out. I would have though any pressure would have dissipated during > that time. Yeah, 2 or 3 hours does seem to be a long time for the radiator to cool. When I was having trouble with mine It would cool in an hour or less. There could be a problem with the radiator cap or the line to the over flow tank. When the coolant gets hot it should expand and flow into the overflow tank and then be drawn back into the radiator as the engine cools. I see a lot of talk about having air in the hoses or the engine on this news group, but I don't know if that could be your problem. I think the rad cap should allow coolant to flow to the overflow tank at about 16 lbs pressure. Ernie |
#10
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DesignGuy wrote: > > > > The connector to the thermo switch has "lock" that must be raised about > > 1/16 of an inch before it can be unpluged. You may have to back the > > thermo > > switch a quarter turn or so to get to this "lock". The thermostat is a > > couple > > of inches to the right of the thermo switch an a bit higher. Be aware > > that > > there is still antifreeze in this part of the engine even after you > > drain > > the radiator. See Tegger's FAQ under radiator does not come on by > > REMCO > > for a lot of good data. > > Ernie > > > > Thanks, Ernie. I lifted the tab with a screwdriver and it popped right off. > > I ended up running a wire from the thermo switch connector to ground, so the > radiator fan stays on when the car is running. I've already purchased the > replacement thermo switch, but need to go back and get a wrench big enough > to put it on. > > One other thing I noticed was that the radiator was under pressure even > after 2-3 hours of sitting. Attempting to remove the rad cap cause coolant > to squirt out. I would have though any pressure would have dissipated during > that time. Yeah, 2 or 3 hours does seem to be a long time for the radiator to cool. When I was having trouble with mine It would cool in an hour or less. There could be a problem with the radiator cap or the line to the over flow tank. When the coolant gets hot it should expand and flow into the overflow tank and then be drawn back into the radiator as the engine cools. I see a lot of talk about having air in the hoses or the engine on this news group, but I don't know if that could be your problem. I think the rad cap should allow coolant to flow to the overflow tank at about 16 lbs pressure. Ernie |
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