can you change the output on a bosch internaly regulated alternator ?

richard wrote:
> "James Sweet" > wrote in message
> ...
>> TimR wrote:
>>> The advert is a hoot..."your car also must be frictionless"..."you may
>>> have to hire a good mechanic to get rid of frictions in brakes" Ah yes,
>>> that darned friction, always slowin' me down!
>>>
>
>
> First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O)
> generator. Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people
> still buy their product, that amazes me.
>
> Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly
> designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. Do you want Proof? Your
> 10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? Mine can.
>
>
> you sounded like a self-schooling person, is the world black and white??
>
> Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they set their
> voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?
>
> I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than
> all
> your parents combined.
>
>
> BTW -
>
> BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and
> THINK before posting,
>
> Go ahead put an adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your
> alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?
>
>
>


LM317? That's an adjustable series pass regulator, it is *not* the same
as an adjustable regulator for an alternator which regulates the field
current depending on the output voltage.

> LOL.
>
>
> To answer the original question, yes, you can get adjustable regulators.
> iPD www.ipdusa.com used to sell them, I think they still do. Probably
> available from other places as well.

Sorry, there was no original question. It was spam for a fraud product
or a fake storefront to steal credit cards. Maybe both.

www.extra150miles.com is hosted by ThePlanet.com. Forward the spam to
to help get the site nuked.

--
I will not see your reply if you use Google.

richard wrote:
> Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:
>
> http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html
>
> (you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy,
> not from fossil fuel)
>
>
>
> Two is to send your alternator to me and I will fix it for you for $100,
> you pay shipping on both directions. Recommend not to exceed 14.28V to
> avoid destroying sensitive electronics in your vehicle.
> , this method still consume fossil fuel.
>
> Good luck,
>
>
>
> Richard.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> bosch alternators
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> need one or two more volts out of mine would like 14.2 or so only getting
> 13.8 am using to charge deep cycle batteries any ideas thanks oldtime
>
> http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15136
>
>

What is the purpose increasing the voltage? Brighter lamps? More
acoustic power? Faster closing windows? Hoter computer?

--

Roland Franzius

On Jun 12, 9:22*am, "richard" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Jun 11, 11:50 am, "richard" > wrote:
>
> > Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:
>
> >http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html
>
> > (you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy,
> > not from fossil fuel)
> > *What complete rubbish. * Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if
> > not fossil fuel?
>
> First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O)
> generator. * Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people
> still buy their product, that amazes me.
>
> Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly
> designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. * Do you want Proof? *Your
> 10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? *Mine can.

So, now a moving car has no kinetic energy. A new world of physics.
Of course, the rest of us know it does and that kinetic energy in 99%+
of all cars comes from fossil fuels.

It's quite laughable actually. We're supposed to believe that a guy
who can't even write a post that makes sense has figured out how to
remove friction from a car so that it has enough power to triple the
0-60 time.

Last time, wasn't it the water pump bearing that was supposed to be
consuming 20hp?



>
> > Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? * And I'd submit that whether you
> > get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator matters not a wit.
>
> Why you sounded like a self-schooling person, the world is black and
> white!! * *Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they
> set their
> voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?

I have no complaint with Bosch or about my voltage regulator.. Nor
apparently does anyone else here but you.



>
> I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than all
> your parents combined.
>
> BTW -
>
> BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and
> THINK before posting,
>
> Go ahead put adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your
> alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?

You're the one that wants to screw around with voltage regulators.
Mine are working fine.

"John von Colditz" > wrote in message
...
> richard pretended :
>> "James Sweet" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> TimR wrote:
>>>> The advert is a hoot..."your car also must be frictionless"..."you may
>>>> have to hire a good mechanic to get rid of frictions in brakes" Ah
>>>> yes,
>>>> that darned friction, always slowin' me down!
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>> > wrote in message
>>>> ...
>>>> On Jun 11, 11:50 am, "richard" > wrote:
>>>>> Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html
>>>>>
>>>>> (you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic
>>>>> Energy,
>>>>> not from fossil fuel)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> What complete rubbish. Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if
>>>> not fossil fuel? Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? And I'd
>>>> submit that whether you get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator
>>>> matters not a wit.
>>>>
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Two is to send your alternator to me and I will fix it for you for
>>>>> $100,
>>>>> you pay shipping on both directions. Recommend not to exceed 14.28V
>>>>> to
>>>>> avoid destroying sensitive electronics in your vehicle.
>>>>> , this method still consume fossil fuel.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck,
>>>>>
>>>>> Richard.
>>>>>
>>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>> -------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> bosch alternators
>>>>>
>>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>> -----
>>>>>
>>>>> need one or two more volts out of mine would like 14.2 or so only
>>>>> getting
>>>>> 13.8 am using to charge deep cycle batteries any ideas thanks oldtime
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15136
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> LOL.
>>>
>>>
>>> To answer the original question, yes, you can get adjustable
>>> regulators.
>>> iPD www.ipdusa.com used to sell them, I think they still do. Probably
>>> available from other places as well.
>>
>> No link. ?? You assume common electronic regulator is compatible with
>> car
>> regulator? Another low grade expert.
>
> Let me see if I've got this right. James is on this board constantly
> helping folks out. His information is accurate, and to the point. You
> are trying to sell something, and criticizing him for not providing a
> complete link to an alternative product to yours? You are insulting to
> other posters, arrogant and rude.
>
> What's wrong with this picture?
>
>

Let me see here...

For over a year now, over 500 people bought FAKE capacitors without knowing
the truth, and you folks tried to tell me and BOSCH that voltage level is
not important and it's can be easily adjusted with any adjustable
regulator, if it's that easy BOSCH probably won't buy a GB(Great Britain)
regulator. You called my post a garbage, isn't that an insult to the
truth? to BOSCH too?

You don't know that I don't care if you buy my product/service or not,
because I am selling them faster than we can make them. I was only trying
to help you, two days ago, I heard on the radio, the Oil predictor said
next round you will end up paying $10.50/gallon. I hope that won't come
true any time soon. But when it comes, I will refuse to help you, I do not
care for your devalued $$$$.

"James Sweet" > wrote in message
...
> richard wrote:
>> "James Sweet" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> TimR wrote:
>>>> The advert is a hoot..."your car also must be frictionless"..."you may
>>>> have to hire a good mechanic to get rid of frictions in brakes" Ah
>>>> yes,
>>>> that darned friction, always slowin' me down!
>>>>
>>
>>
>> First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O)
>> generator. Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle,
>> people
>> still buy their product, that amazes me.
>>
>> Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly
>> designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. Do you want Proof?
>> Your
>> 10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? Mine can.
>>
>>
>> you sounded like a self-schooling person, is the world black and white??
>>
>> Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they set
>> their
>> voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?
>>
>> I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than
>> all
>> your parents combined.
>>
>>
>> BTW -
>>
>> BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and
>> THINK before posting,
>>
>> Go ahead put an adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on
>> your
>> alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?
>>
>
>
> LM317? That's an adjustable series pass regulator, it is *not* the same
> as an adjustable regulator for an alternator which regulates the field
> current depending on the output voltage.

Then be specific and give your Regulator's part # that you were referring
to, don't be too vague and expect people to read your mind.


It's not the question of " Where does Kinetic Energy come from?"

It's The question of " Why don't you smart people put it to benefit you?"

>
> It's The question of " Why don't you smart people put it to benefit you?"
>
>
because you make a pile out of stupid people .........

Roland Franzius wrote:
> richard wrote:
>> Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:
>>
>> http://www.extra150miles.com/30trial.html
>>
>> (you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic
>> Energy, not from fossil fuel)
>>
>>
>>
>> Two is to send your alternator to me and I will fix it for you for
>> $100, you pay shipping on both directions. Recommend not to exceed
>> 14.28V to avoid destroying sensitive electronics in your vehicle.
>> , this method still consume fossil fuel.
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard.
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> bosch alternators
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>> need one or two more volts out of mine would like 14.2 or so only
>> getting 13.8 am using to charge deep cycle batteries any ideas thanks
>> oldtime
>>
>> http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15136
>>
>>
>
> What is the purpose increasing the voltage? Brighter lamps? More
> acoustic power? Faster closing windows? Hoter computer?
>


I think he is trying to imply that 13.8v will not charge your batteries
properly, which might be slightly true, but my 940 produces over 14.1v.
Also the original web site is gone now but I guess it was saying you
should get more MPG with more voltage.

I don't quite understand what the 'adjustable' ones are doing, The IPD
description don't make any sense. How can you prevent light dimming
when the voltage is dropping after the alternator/regulator, by
increaseing the regulation voltage?? You would want to decrease it, you
cannot regulate 'up' (without using DC-DC converter which is alot more
money at 10A). Perhaps they are just lower drop out regulators or able
to eek out a bit more current from the alternator but obviously this guy
is pretending to answer some query in order to sell stuff.

I do remember my friend as a short cut wired his stereo into the
ignition on/off line to power the 4x50w. His dash lights dimmed along
with the music. When I wired mine up I used a direct 12V supply to the
battery and an ignition on/off line, and got a noticable quality
improvement.

Strangely though the OP has answered some of the criticisms, but his
arguments make no sense atall, while he seems to be involved in the
automotive snake oil industry such a HHO. I guess English is not his
first language.

I am currently waiting the results of a HHO generator test in 'Car
Mechanics' magazine, the makers are claiming 5+mpg improvements by
mixing in locally generated HHO (electrolising water using the
alternator) in real time. But it all looks a bit too Heath Robinson and
actually dangerous to me, they talked about frozen relays lead to
explosions. I can't see how a 5+ improvement in MPG for free has been
missed to this point, but you do hear alot about how the car industry
like to supress this stuff. It is however more believable than 'free'
power from kenetic energy.

--
Tony

> I don't quite understand what the 'adjustable' ones are doing, The IPD
> description don't make any sense. How can you prevent light dimming
> when the voltage is dropping after the alternator/regulator, by
> increaseing the regulation voltage?? You would want to decrease it, you
> cannot regulate 'up' (without using DC-DC converter which is alot more
> money at 10A). Perhaps they are just lower drop out regulators or able
> to eek out a bit more current from the alternator but obviously this guy
> is pretending to answer some query in order to sell stuff.
>
>


The regulator in an automotive alternator does not regulate the output
voltage directly as a linear series pass regulator such as the
ubiquitous 3 terminal regulators used in many small electronic devices does.

What it does do is control the field excitation current in response to
the output voltage of the alternator. As load increases and the voltage
starts to drop, the excitation current increases which increases the
output to compensate, the other effect being it increases the mechanical
load on the engine. The primary advantage of an alternator over an old
fashioned generator is that the brushes that transfer power to the
rotating assembly need only handle the current to the field coil in the
rotor rather than the entire output as is the case with a generator.

A standard automotive alternator can produce well over 100V if you drive
the excitation balls to the wall directly off the 12V battery with no
regulator. Indeed, it's a common trick used to run line voltage
incandescent lights and power tools driven by universal motors in
emergencies. Obviously one must first disconnect the output from the 12V
electrical system before doing this, and it likely does no favors for
the alternator but it does work.

In a nutshell, these adjustable regulators allow one to set the
reference voltage in the regulator against which the output is compared
to control the field current, which allows you to adjust the output. As
for reasons to do this, in many cars, the electrical system is not
really adequate. Older designs that got more and more accessories added
as they matured have more and more load on the system, and when you add
to that aftermarket devices you load things even further. Voltage drop
in the wiring and connectors that would be insignificant in a 120V or
240V household circuit become very significant when you only have ~12V
to work with, so sometimes boosting the stock alternator voltage up a
hair works nicely to compensate for losses elsewhere. Really it would be
better to rewire the entire car with heavier gauge wire and better
connectors throughout, but in most cases that's not really practical.

James Sweet wrote:
>
>> I don't quite understand what the 'adjustable' ones are doing, The IPD
>> description don't make any sense. How can you prevent light dimming
>> when the voltage is dropping after the alternator/regulator, by
>> increaseing the regulation voltage?? You would want to decrease it,
>> you cannot regulate 'up' (without using DC-DC converter which is alot
>> more money at 10A). Perhaps they are just lower drop out regulators
>> or able to eek out a bit more current from the alternator but
>> obviously this guy is pretending to answer some query in order to sell
>> stuff.
>>
>>
>
>
> The regulator in an automotive alternator does not regulate the output
> voltage directly as a linear series pass regulator such as the
> ubiquitous 3 terminal regulators used in many small electronic devices
> does.
>
> What it does do is control the field excitation current in response to
> the output voltage of the alternator. As load increases and the voltage
> starts to drop, the excitation current increases which increases the
> output to compensate, the other effect being it increases the mechanical
> load on the engine. The primary advantage of an alternator over an old
> fashioned generator is that the brushes that transfer power to the
> rotating assembly need only handle the current to the field coil in the
> rotor rather than the entire output as is the case with a generator.
>
> A standard automotive alternator can produce well over 100V if you drive
> the excitation balls to the wall directly off the 12V battery with no
> regulator. Indeed, it's a common trick used to run line voltage
> incandescent lights and power tools driven by universal motors in
> emergencies. Obviously one must first disconnect the output from the 12V
> electrical system before doing this, and it likely does no favors for
> the alternator but it does work.
>
> In a nutshell, these adjustable regulators allow one to set the
> reference voltage in the regulator against which the output is compared
> to control the field current, which allows you to adjust the output. As
> for reasons to do this, in many cars, the electrical system is not
> really adequate. Older designs that got more and more accessories added
> as they matured have more and more load on the system, and when you add
> to that aftermarket devices you load things even further. Voltage drop
> in the wiring and connectors that would be insignificant in a 120V or
> 240V household circuit become very significant when you only have ~12V
> to work with, so sometimes boosting the stock alternator voltage up a
> hair works nicely to compensate for losses elsewhere. Really it would be
> better to rewire the entire car with heavier gauge wire and better
> connectors throughout, but in most cases that's not really practical.

Thanks thats a helpful explanation. Still find it hard to understand
how if the problem is really deficient wiring, that bringing the voltage
up will reduce dimming when varying loads are applied, although I guess
it increases the low level. But I do see how that can help with
charging a battery in a caravan.

Really what you want is to isolate the battery/alternator/starter system
and regulate outside of it, preferably using a high efficiency switch
mode regulator. Then you might have some sort of useful KERS system
with bigger voltages / faster chargng. Although everything inside the
battery system would need redesigned for the higher voltages (Starter
solenoid, alternator, more batteries).

--
Tony