stalls while braking

It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When It
idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I brake
and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this problem.

1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or hit
the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real slow
and it stalls.

2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.

--
Thanks

Eddie

Eddie wrote:

> It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When It
> idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I brake
> and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
> electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this problem.
>
> 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or hit
> the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real slow
> and it stalls.
>
> 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
> neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
>

Put voltmeter on the Coil (+) terminal
(or the Blk wire coming out of Ign sw).

I would expect the voltage to stay near 12V
even with brakes/turn lights on.

If you get a bigger drop, move the meter
to the battery posts and repeat.

You don't say what year/model so anything
further would be speculation.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Sorry, 1965 T1 converted to 12V.

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
. net...
| Eddie wrote:
|
| > It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When
It
| > idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I
brake
| > and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
| > electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this
problem.
| >
| > 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or
hit
| > the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real
slow
| > and it stalls.
| >
| > 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
| > neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
| >
|
| Put voltmeter on the Coil (+) terminal
| (or the Blk wire coming out of Ign sw).
|
| I would expect the voltage to stay near 12V
| even with brakes/turn lights on.
|
| If you get a bigger drop, move the meter
| to the battery posts and repeat.
|
| You don't say what year/model so anything
| further would be speculation.
|
| Speedy Jim
| http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
|

Eddie wrote:

> Sorry, 1965 T1 converted to 12V.


Do the voltmeter tests I outlined.

On a '65 *ALL* power to the front of the car
passes thru the Headlight sw terminals. Yes!
Oftn, these get loose/corroded/overheated,
which will drop the voltage to the rest of the car systems.

But do the tests first.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/




>
> "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
> . net...
> | Eddie wrote:
> |
> | > It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When
> It
> | > idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I
> brake
> | > and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
> | > electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this
> problem.
> | >
> | > 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or
> hit
> | > the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real
> slow
> | > and it stalls.
> | >
> | > 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
> | > neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
> | >
> |
> | Put voltmeter on the Coil (+) terminal
> | (or the Blk wire coming out of Ign sw).
> |
> | I would expect the voltage to stay near 12V
> | even with brakes/turn lights on.
> |
> | If you get a bigger drop, move the meter
> | to the battery posts and repeat.
> |
> | You don't say what year/model so anything
> | further would be speculation.
> |
> | Speedy Jim
> | http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
> |
>
>

Thanks Speedy Jim,
I will test tonight when I get home. I did replaced all of the fuses a
couple of weeks ago.
--
Thanks

Eddie

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
om...
| Eddie wrote:
|
| > Sorry, 1965 T1 converted to 12V.
|
|
| Do the voltmeter tests I outlined.
|
| On a '65 *ALL* power to the front of the car
| passes thru the Headlight sw terminals. Yes!
| Oftn, these get loose/corroded/overheated,
| which will drop the voltage to the rest of the car systems.
|
| But do the tests first.
|
| Speedy Jim
| http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
|
|
|
|
| >
| > "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
| > . net...
| > | Eddie wrote:
| > |
| > | > It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday.
When
| > It
| > | > idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I
| > brake
| > | > and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
| > | > electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this
| > problem.
| > | >
| > | > 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes
or
| > hit
| > | > the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle
real
| > slow
| > | > and it stalls.
| > | >
| > | > 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
| > | > neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
| > | >
| > |
| > | Put voltmeter on the Coil (+) terminal
| > | (or the Blk wire coming out of Ign sw).
| > |
| > | I would expect the voltage to stay near 12V
| > | even with brakes/turn lights on.
| > |
| > | If you get a bigger drop, move the meter
| > | to the battery posts and repeat.
| > |
| > | You don't say what year/model so anything
| > | further would be speculation.
| > |
| > | Speedy Jim
| > | http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
| > |
| >
| >

I did test it last night, the only reading above 12V was when the engine was
at a higher rpm. At idle it was about 11.61V. With the brakes on and then
the signal , it would drop to 10.9 or so.


"Eddie" > wrote in message
...
| It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When It
| idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I brake
| and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
| electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this problem.
|
| 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or
hit
| the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real
slow
| and it stalls.
|
| 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
| neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
|
| --
| Thanks
|
| Eddie
|
|

Eddie wrote:
> I did test it last night, the only reading above 12V was when the engine was
> at a higher rpm. At idle it was about 11.61V. With the brakes on and then
> the signal , it would drop to 10.9 or so.
>


That was measured at the dash?? That's quite low (10.9),
although I would expect the engine to still have enough spark to run.

Do some more measuring to see where the drop occurs.




>
> "Eddie" > wrote in message
> ...
> | It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When It
> | idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I brake
> | and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
> | electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this problem.
> |
> | 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes or
> hit
> | the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real
> slow
> | and it stalls.
> |
> | 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
> | neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
> |
> | --
> | Thanks
> |
> | Eddie
> |
> |
>
>

I'm kinda going by memory. I wrote the measurements down, but I forgot the
paper at home. Even at an idle, the battery didn't even measure 12V. I
measured at the coil, fuse terminal 1, fuse terminal 8, and at the battery.
At an idle none measured 12V, except on the generator.


"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
. net...
| Eddie wrote:
| > I did test it last night, the only reading above 12V was when the engine
was
| > at a higher rpm. At idle it was about 11.61V. With the brakes on and
then
| > the signal , it would drop to 10.9 or so.
| >
|
|
| That was measured at the dash?? That's quite low (10.9),
| although I would expect the engine to still have enough spark to run.
|
| Do some more measuring to see where the drop occurs.
|
|
|
|
| >
| > "Eddie" > wrote in message
| > ...
| > | It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When
It
| > | idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I
brake
| > | and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
| > | electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this
problem.
| > |
| > | 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes
or
| > hit
| > | the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real
| > slow
| > | and it stalls.
| > |
| > | 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
| > | neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
| > |
| > | --
| > | Thanks
| > |
| > | Eddie
| > |
| > |
| >
| >

Eddie wrote:

> I'm kinda going by memory. I wrote the measurements down, but I forgot the
> paper at home. Even at an idle, the battery didn't even measure 12V. I
> measured at the coil, fuse terminal 1, fuse terminal 8, and at the battery.
> At an idle none measured 12V, except on the generator.
>

Ah. Maybe a charging system problem?
Does the battery ever go flat that it has trouble cranking the engine?

At a fast idle (maybe 1000 RPM), the voltage right at the
battery should be a minimum of 13.5V. More typically,
it would be around 14V.




>
> "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
> . net...
> | Eddie wrote:
> | > I did test it last night, the only reading above 12V was when the engine
> was
> | > at a higher rpm. At idle it was about 11.61V. With the brakes on and
> then
> | > the signal , it would drop to 10.9 or so.
> | >
> |
> |
> | That was measured at the dash?? That's quite low (10.9),
> | although I would expect the engine to still have enough spark to run.
> |
> | Do some more measuring to see where the drop occurs.
> |
> |
> |
> |
> | >
> | > "Eddie" > wrote in message
> | > ...
> | > | It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday. When
> It
> | > | idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when I
> brake
> | > | and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably a
> | > | electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this
> problem.
> | > |
> | > | 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the brakes
> or
> | > hit
> | > | the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle real
> | > slow
> | > | and it stalls.
> | > |
> | > | 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put in
> | > | neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
> | > |
> | > | --
> | > | Thanks
> | > |
> | > | Eddie
> | > |
> | > |
> | >
> | >
>
>

Thank for all of the help Speedy Jim.
No trouble cranking or starting. It will start right up. I don't have an
rpm gauge on it, so I don't know what rpm it is at a fast idle. Before last
night, it sat for 5 days. Sunday, I adjusted the valves and took it for a
test drive. No problems starting up after valve adjustment. Then last
night, started right up to test it. I will test to see what volts the
battery is at with the engine off. Maybe the battery is going bad? But I
figured, once its started, the generator should keep a steady voltage going
through the system even without the battery.


"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
et...
| Eddie wrote:
|
| > I'm kinda going by memory. I wrote the measurements down, but I forgot
the
| > paper at home. Even at an idle, the battery didn't even measure 12V. I
| > measured at the coil, fuse terminal 1, fuse terminal 8, and at the
battery.
| > At an idle none measured 12V, except on the generator.
| >
|
| Ah. Maybe a charging system problem?
| Does the battery ever go flat that it has trouble cranking the engine?
|
| At a fast idle (maybe 1000 RPM), the voltage right at the
| battery should be a minimum of 13.5V. More typically,
| it would be around 14V.
|
|
|
|
| >
| > "Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
| > . net...
| > | Eddie wrote:
| > | > I did test it last night, the only reading above 12V was when the
engine
| > was
| > | > at a higher rpm. At idle it was about 11.61V. With the brakes on
and
| > then
| > | > the signal , it would drop to 10.9 or so.
| > | >
| > |
| > |
| > | That was measured at the dash?? That's quite low (10.9),
| > | although I would expect the engine to still have enough spark to run.
| > |
| > | Do some more measuring to see where the drop occurs.
| > |
| > |
| > |
| > |
| > | >
| > | > "Eddie" > wrote in message
| > | > ...
| > | > | It just started a few of days ago. I finally confirmed yesterday.
When
| > It
| > | > | idles, I put the brakes on, it will start to stall. It stalls when
I
| > brake
| > | > | and turn the signal on, but only at an idle. I know it is probably
a
| > | > | electrical problem. I wanted to know if anybody has ever had this
| > problem.
| > | > |
| > | > | 1. not driving - Let it idle for a minute or a while, hit the
brakes
| > or
| > | > hit
| > | > | the brakes and turn signal on at the same time, it starts to idle
real
| > | > slow
| > | > | and it stalls.
| > | > |
| > | > | 2. driving - drives fine until coming to a stop. Downshift or put
in
| > | > | neutral, once rpms get down to an idle, it wants to stall.
| > | > |
| > | > | --
| > | > | Thanks
| > | > |
| > | > | Eddie
| > | > |
| > | > |
| > | >
| > | >
| >
| >