Single Vaccum Sticky

75 SuperBeetle converted to 34 Pict 3 carb, Bosch distributor (JFUR4,
0231167049, 113 905 205 AJ)

Read archive posts about being able to blow into vaccum can attached to
distributor to watch if pull rod moves to turn dizzy's breaker plate.
Blow me down, but I can't move the sucker with my mouth. Can of
compressed air will though. Questions:

- Outlet on front, tapered end of vaccum can hooks up to left side of
carb. Are you supposed to be able to blow in this outlet to move the
vaccum's pull rod? I pulled the can off and it's real tight to move the
pull rod in/out with your fingers even. Though, do'able with compressed
air straw shoved into outlet.

- Outlet on back, opposite tapered end of vaccum hooks up to manifold
'neck'. Blowing/compressed air into this outlet of vaccum can doesn't
do anything (blocked). Is it supposed to? Stuck a shish-kabob skewer
into it and it pushed in a bit, then it sprung back closed.

Suck versus blow? This sounds nasty...

Tom

Bugzai wrote:

> 75 SuperBeetle converted to 34 Pict 3 carb, Bosch distributor (JFUR4,
> 0231167049, 113 905 205 AJ)
>
> Read archive posts about being able to blow into vaccum can attached to
> distributor to watch if pull rod moves to turn dizzy's breaker plate.
> Blow me down, but I can't move the sucker with my mouth. Can of
> compressed air will though. Questions:
>
> - Outlet on front, tapered end of vaccum can hooks up to left side of
> carb. Are you supposed to be able to blow in this outlet to move the
> vaccum's pull rod? I pulled the can off and it's real tight to move the
> pull rod in/out with your fingers even. Though, do'able with compressed
> air straw shoved into outlet.
>
> - Outlet on back, opposite tapered end of vaccum hooks up to manifold
> 'neck'. Blowing/compressed air into this outlet of vaccum can doesn't
> do anything (blocked). Is it supposed to? Stuck a shish-kabob skewer
> into it and it pushed in a bit, then it sprung back closed.
>
> Suck versus blow? This sounds nasty...
>
> Tom
>

YES!!! Suck it!

You should be able to move the advance plate fully to
the stop in each direction.

The "fat" port connects to the back of the carb, not the
manifold. Your 34PICT may not have the port.


Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Best definition *EVER* of "taking a quote out of context" shown below.
:-)


On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 21:46:38 -0400, Speedy Jim > wrote:

<snip>

> YES!!! Suck it!
>Speedy Jim
>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Sorry, Jim. I couldn't resist. You know I'm only kiddin'. :-)

"Stupid people are funny." - me

Shag wrote:

> Best definition *EVER* of "taking a quote out of context" shown below.
> :-)
>
>
> On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 21:46:38 -0400, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
>> YES!!! Suck it!
>>Speedy Jim
>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
>
> Sorry, Jim. I couldn't resist. You know I'm only kiddin'. :-)
>
> "Stupid people are funny." - me

Yep, sometimes my sense of humor shows thru too:-)
Jim

C'mon give me some credit at least. I left the door wide open for
comments!

Jim, my Solex carb doesn't have a port at the back. Would a stiff
vaccum push rod cause my car to lose speed on the highway (was losing
speed at 60 mph and limped to 40 until I stopped)?

Have idle problems as well (stalls after warming up when stopping).
Hope a new carb will fix it. Suspecting air leaks at throttle bushings.

Bugzai wrote:

> C'mon give me some credit at least. I left the door wide open for
> comments!
>
> Jim, my Solex carb doesn't have a port at the back. Would a stiff
> vaccum push rod cause my car to lose speed on the highway (was losing
> speed at 60 mph and limped to 40 until I stopped)?
>
> Have idle problems as well (stalls after warming up when stopping).
> Hope a new carb will fix it. Suspecting air leaks at throttle bushings.
>

I haven't had trouble with a stiff rod in a long time:-)

No, I don't think the vacuum push rod is to blame when
losing speed on the highway. That sounds more like
fuel starvation or overheating. Try another highway run
with the fuel filler cap loosened. If that solves the
losing speed, the tank is not venting properly. Could
also be caused by clogged tank filter screen.

I think you need to run a timing test with a strobe light.
That distrib is designed to provide an initial timing
(at idle) of 5 degrees ***AFTER*** TDC. That's what the
fat hose is for, to retard timing for emission purposes.
The strobe will tell you if that is happening. Then check
the advance at (roughly) 3000 RPM. It should read something
like 30 to 35 degrees BEFORE TDC.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/