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OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower control arm, Toyota?



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 17th 14, 06:57 PM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower control arm, Toyota?


Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
to take it down by 11PM at latest.

Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.

I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.

So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.

And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????

How should I get this bolt off???

(The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )

BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms
Ads
  #2  
Old October 17th 14, 07:01 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
N8N[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 31
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lowercontrol arm, Toyota?

On Friday, October 17, 2014 1:57:33 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
> Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
>
> to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>
>
>
> Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
>
> lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>
>
>
> I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
>
> bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
>
> flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
>
> again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>
>
>
> So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>
>
>
> And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
>
> 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
>
> between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
>
> would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
>
> very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>
>
>
> How should I get this bolt off???
>
>
>
> (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )
>
>
>
> BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms


can you post a pic on photobucket or something? I looked for a minute or two and couldn't even find a good pic of what you're describing, and as they say...
  #3  
Old October 17th 14, 07:21 PM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Gordon Shumway
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 41
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower control arm, Toyota?

On Fri, 17 Oct 2014 13:57:33 -0400, micky >
wrote:

>
>Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
>to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>
>Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
>lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>
>I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
>bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
>flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
>again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>
>So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>
>And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
>3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
>between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
>would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
>very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>
>How should I get this bolt off???
>
>(The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )
>
>BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms


http://www.justanswer.com/car/
  #4  
Old October 17th 14, 07:53 PM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Brent[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,430
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower control arm, Toyota?

On 2014-10-17, micky > wrote:
>
> Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
> to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>
> Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
> lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>
> I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
> bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
> flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
> again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>
> So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>
> And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
> 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
> between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
> would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
> very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>
> How should I get this bolt off???
>
> (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )
>
> BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms



http://parts.bernarditoyota.com/part...iagram=8513645

Describe what you are doing using the numbers on the diagram. I am
guessing you're replacing control arm #8 and #11 is the problem part?
There's not enough detail in these drawings of the fasteners. You'll
neeed to provide photos.


  #5  
Old October 17th 14, 08:12 PM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Steve W.[_6_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,161
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower controlarm, Toyota?

micky wrote:
> Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
> to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>
> Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
> lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>
> I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
> bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
> flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
> again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>
> So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>
> And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
> 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
> between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
> would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
> very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>
> How should I get this bolt off???
>
> (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )
>
> BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms


Sounds like you need a set of through hole sockets. Those are shallow
compared to normal sockets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw-ihOjjF1o

These are ok for those once a year use items.
http://www.harborfreight.com/21-pc-s...set-67974.html


--
Steve W.
  #6  
Old October 17th 14, 10:34 PM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Stormin Mormon[_9_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 41
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower controlarm, Toyota?

On 10/17/2014 1:57 PM, micky wrote:
>
> Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
> to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>
> Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
> lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>
> I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
> bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
> flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
> again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>
> So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>
> And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
> 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
> between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
> would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
> very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>
> How should I get this bolt off???
>
> (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )
>
> BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms
>

Maybe you can put the jacks and stands in different place,
to let the nut and bolt down.

Alternatively, you may need to use a hole saw and cut some
metal from above, and make your own hole. So you can get
at the nut from above.

I changed a fuel pump on my Blazer one time, saw through
the back floor.

No real experience with this, just guessing.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
  #7  
Old October 17th 14, 11:24 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
N8N[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 31
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lowercontrol arm, Toyota?

On Friday, October 17, 2014 2:01:10 PM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
> On Friday, October 17, 2014 1:57:33 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
>
> > Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want

>
> >

>
> > to take it down by 11PM at latest.

>
> >

>
> >

>
> >

>
> > Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right

>
> >

>
> > lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.

>
> >

>
> >

>
> >

>
> > I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two

>
> >

>
> > bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is

>
> >

>
> > flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down

>
> >

>
> > again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.

>
> >

>
> >

>
> >

>
> > So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.

>
> >

>
> >

>
> >

>
> > And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a

>
> >

>
> > 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room

>
> >

>
> > between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I

>
> >

>
> > would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the

>
> >

>
> > very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????

>
> >

>
> >

>
> >

>
> > How should I get this bolt off???

>
> >

>
> >

>
> >

>
> > (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )

>
> >

>
> >

>
> >

>
> > BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms

>
>
>
> can you post a pic on photobucket or something? I looked for a minute or two and couldn't even find a good pic of what you're describing, and as they say...


Also, would a deep offset box wrench work? e.g.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_ID=675008

although obviously for very occasional home use, something from the Freight might be more budget friendly.

nate
  #8  
Old October 18th 14, 05:46 AM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower control arm, Toyota?

On Fri, 17 Oct 2014 15:12:10 -0400, "Steve W." >
wrote:

>micky wrote:
>> Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
>> to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>>
>> Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
>> lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>>
>> I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
>> bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
>> flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
>> again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>>
>> So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>>
>> And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
>> 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
>> between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
>> would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
>> very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>>
>> How should I get this bolt off???


BTW, when I realized I couldn't get the bolt off, I tried hammering on
it with a mini-sledge, in order to bend it back straight. I could
easily hit the right spot and it would have worked if only it had bent.
I gave it a lot of good whacks. Then I tried a full size sledge, at
least 4 times as heavy, maybe 6, but I couldn't swing it as well.
>>
>> (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )


To cut away part of the soup bowl. But see below the problem that
might leave.

>> BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms


And I couldn't find any text instructions on this repair either.

>Sounds like you need a set of through hole sockets. Those are shallow
>compared to normal sockets.


Plus iiuc no space is used by the ratchet handle, right? I've seen
these, I think, but it never occurred to me to use it here. Yet it
might just work. And 19MM is included in the set.

I'm going to go get them tomorrow or Sunday. Maybe I should call to see
if they're in stock. The webpage doesn't say. Maybe I should print out
the webpage to get the sale price (22 from 32).

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw-ihOjjF1o
>
>These are ok for those once a year use items.


Exactly. If I use them so much that they break, I'll know if it's worth
buying a quality version, or not.

>http://www.harborfreight.com/21-pc-s...set-67974.html


...... After my initial enthusiasm, possible reality is setting in. I
reread the shop manual, and it could go either way.

The FSM says, just to remove the the forward lateral control arm, to
first:

Disconnect the O2 sensor on the center exhaust pipe.
Disconnect both ends of the center exhaust pipe, and remove it.
Disconnect both ends of the strut rods (trailing control arms) on both
sides of the car (although possibly one could only disconnect one
end and let it dangle).
Disconnect both ends of the rear control arms (which they call the No. 2
lower Suspension arms.) although here too maybe I could just
disconnect it from the center plate.
Remove the stabilizer bar brackets on both sides (though here they say
nothing about disconnecting the bar from the knuckles, which sort of
implies that above the arms have to be fully removed.)
Support the suspension member with a floor jack. (The susp. member is a
thick plate or a sandwich in the middle of the car that the control
arms and stabilizer bar attach to.
Remove the suspension member (4 nuts, 2 bolts, and 8 stoppers!)
Lower the suspension member.

Only then can one remove the forward control arm.

Acc. to them. (You can see why I didn't want to do all that.)

But I've learned that shop manuals often make things harder than they
should be. (1) One GM car I had, the FSM said to use a press to remove
and replace lug bolts, but the guy at Atlantic Wheel and Rim told me no
one does that. They remove it with a drift and a hammer, and the
install it by putting on a lug nut and tightening it! And I did that
and it took only a few minutes and worked fine. 2) And it said to
remove the rear half axle (RWD, '67 Pontiac Cataline) one should use an
axle puller. Well my bearing started rumbling when I was 2 hours from
home, and even at home I didn't have an axle puller, but I unbolted it
and it came out like a hot knife through butter. I pulled no harder
than if it were lying on a hardwood floor. 3) And one guy on the web
yesterday was led by Toyota manuals or webpages to think he had to
remove the steering wheel and the air bag to change the bushings on a
front contorl arm. In reality he only had to loosen a couple bolts and
move the rack a little bit.)

OTOH, the drawing shows the bolt that attaches the center end of the
control arm I need to replace, shows it to be quite long, meaning maybe
that even if the wrench above loosens it, I won't be able to back it out
far enough to remove it. (Don't worry, I'm going to try anyhow, but
what I think will happen is that I will break the wrench. I know I'll
need a cheater bar, but I may also have to hit it with a mini-sledge.)

Now I suspect that the soup bowl that surrounds the head of the bolt is
there precisely so no one will try to remove the bolt before he lowers
the suspension member in the middle below the obstacle that is now
preventing me from using a simple 1/2" or 1" socket wrench.

And this certainly accounts for why the dealer wants $210 labor. Now
what is strange is that Firestone is so cheap, only 1.1 hours and $121
labor. Can even a good mechanic really disconnect all those things
above, replace the control arm, and then connect them all again in 66
minutes? I guess I'm still thinking of hand tules, but an air wrench
makes things go a lot faster.

So if I can't do this with the wrench above, I could go to Firestone,
but they will insist on buying the part from Toyota. Even if I bought
it from Toyota 2 days earlier and had the receipt for it, they said they
wouldn't use my part. So they certainly won't use the junk yard part.
I'm going to ask them, If I sign away the warranty on the rear end, will
they do it then? What if I buy the 170 dollar lifetime wheel
alignment too? This control arm is as good as new and they should all
be able to see that.

Or I'll try to find an independant shop that won't have such strict
rules, and will let me sign away the warranty on the rear.

Or I could go to Toyota, who want $158 for the part and $210 for labor.
Same decision I had before, except I'll have wasted $50 on a part I'll
never use. But no more than 50.

  #9  
Old October 18th 14, 05:58 AM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Sanity Clause
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower control arm, Toyota?


"micky" wrote:

> Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
> to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>
> Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
> lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>
> I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
> bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
> flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
> again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>
> So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>
> And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
> 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
> between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
> would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
> very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>
> How should I get this bolt off???
>
> (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )
>
> BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c15280092983

3 arms...
One runs front-to-back.
Two run side-to-side.
If it's the front of the two side-to-side arms (#1), then as the page above shows,
you need to remove everything else, then drop the "suspension member", the
subframe thing in the middle that all the side-to-side arms connect to.
Have fun.


  #10  
Old October 18th 14, 06:02 AM posted to alt.autos.toyota.camry,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default OT for home repair -- Urgent -- How to remove rear lower control arm, Toyota?

On Fri, 17 Oct 2014 18:53:54 +0000 (UTC), Brent
> wrote:

>On 2014-10-17, micky > wrote:
>>
>> Respond as soon as possible please. Car up on stands right now. I want
>> to take it down by 11PM at latest.
>>
>> Besides front end damage, that I've repaired, the rear forward right
>> lower control arm, on my 2000 Solara convertible is bent.
>>
>> I have the replacement part, but the bolt near the center (of the two
>> bolts) is in something that looks like a soup bowl. The kind that is
>> flat in the center and then curves up near the edges and curves down
>> again at the very edge. Maybe it's meant to be a washer.
>>
>> So I can't get an end wrench or a box wrench on it.
>>
>> And I can't get a socket wrench on it, not a torque wrench or even a
>> 3/8" plain ratchet or breaker bar, because there isn't enough room
>> between the bolt and what might be the floor pan for the rear seat. I
>> would bend that up and out of the way but there is a screw head in the
>> very spot that needs bending. Maybe I should push it up anyhow????
>>
>> How should I get this bolt off???
>>
>> (The nut is fixed in place, and I don't have a cutting torch. )
>>
>> BTW, so far, all the videos are for front control arms

>
>
>http://parts.bernarditoyota.com/part...iagram=8513645
>
>Describe what you are doing using the numbers on the diagram. I am


What a clever idea, and thanks for finding this page for me.

>guessing you're replacing control arm #8 and #11 is the problem part?


Not a bad guess. But no. I'm replacing #2, which this page (and
probably Toyota in general) calls the Ft. (Front) Lateral Arm**. It
goes from close to the center of the car to the wheel knuckle. It's the
bolt near the center which is the problem, part #4. Which screws into
#25, the suspension cross member.

**Some places call this the "forward" arm, which I think is a better
choice than front, since it's in the rear. There is, as you know and as
the picture shows, also a rear arm. *Lateral* arm is not a bad choice
of words, given its position from middle to side, but the same rod is
often called the locating arm and the control arm. So then it would be
the forward rear control arm.


BTW, part #8 is called the trailing arm, even though Toyota just calls
it the strut rod. I'm not sure why it's called "trailing" since it's in
front of the axle, but maybe when the axle goes down, it follows. Same
thing when the axle goes up. So it's trailing. Maybe.

I found a good page that didn't say how to take this off, and the author
wasn't talking esp. about Toyota, but he did go into the use of the
trailing arm for suspension. It said the pro's were that it was cheap
to make, and didn't handle too badly, but the cons were that it took a
lot of space away from the trunk (does it really?), and it didn't handle
that well either, esp. iirc on curves. One wouldn't want this style on
a performance car he said.

>There's not enough detail in these drawings of the fasteners. You'll
>neeed to provide photos.


I should have taken pictures, but I may be trying again tomorrow or
Sunday. (I sort of gave up today and put the car on the ground about
4PM)

Please read my reply to Steve, to see different aspects of the problem.


 




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