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Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 3rd 14, 03:19 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

AIUI, it doesn't matter.

I'm having real trouble getting the inner brake pad to fit all the way
into the appropriate space. It won't go in the last 3/8". I'll use a
brighter flashlight and try harder to see what is interfering with the
thick brake pad, but maybe it is the thickness.

The caliper is open all but one mm. and after I modify the tool I have
which is designed to open it, maybe I can get it open all the way. Or
after I find my really big water pump pliers.

But assuming this doesn't solve he problem, and assuming the old brake
pad will go in all the way, is that okay? The old brake pad was in use
until the accident I've posted about, and it still has plenty of pad on
it. And two pads of the same age are still in use on the left front
wheel.

My understanding of disk brakes is that the caliper slides on the upper
and lower pin and positions itself so the pads are inside the caliper,
and that it closes when the brake pedal is pushed, And when the brake
pedal is released, the caliper barely opens and the pads barely move
back, but somehow this doesn't put drag on the wheels. And nothing
requires the caliper to be centered above the brake rotor, only that it
open wide enough for the rotor and the pads to fit between the jaws of
the caliper.

Sure the new pad will still be good when it's time to replace the old
pads, but that won't be for years yet.


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  #2  
Old October 3rd 14, 10:35 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Steve W.[_6_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,161
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

micky wrote:
> Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?
>
> AIUI, it doesn't matter.
>
> I'm having real trouble getting the inner brake pad to fit all the way
> into the appropriate space. It won't go in the last 3/8". I'll use a
> brighter flashlight and try harder to see what is interfering with the
> thick brake pad, but maybe it is the thickness.
>
> The caliper is open all but one mm. and after I modify the tool I have
> which is designed to open it, maybe I can get it open all the way. Or
> after I find my really big water pump pliers.
>
> But assuming this doesn't solve he problem, and assuming the old brake
> pad will go in all the way, is that okay? The old brake pad was in use
> until the accident I've posted about, and it still has plenty of pad on
> it. And two pads of the same age are still in use on the left front
> wheel.
>
> My understanding of disk brakes is that the caliper slides on the upper
> and lower pin and positions itself so the pads are inside the caliper,
> and that it closes when the brake pedal is pushed, And when the brake
> pedal is released, the caliper barely opens and the pads barely move
> back, but somehow this doesn't put drag on the wheels. And nothing
> requires the caliper to be centered above the brake rotor, only that it
> open wide enough for the rotor and the pads to fit between the jaws of
> the caliper.
>
> Sure the new pad will still be good when it's time to replace the old
> pads, but that won't be for years yet.
>
>


What happened to the outer pad? If it was damaged through physical
impact the caliper may also have been damaged enough to cause problems.
For the cost of a replacement it would be a good investment, then just
swap the pads on the other side as well.

--
Steve W.
  #3  
Old October 4th 14, 03:21 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Kevin Bottorff[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 119
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

micky > wrote in
:

> Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?
>
> AIUI, it doesn't matter.
>
> I'm having real trouble getting the inner brake pad to fit all the way
> into the appropriate space. It won't go in the last 3/8". I'll use

a
> brighter flashlight and try harder to see what is interfering with the
> thick brake pad, but maybe it is the thickness.
>
> The caliper is open all but one mm. and after I modify the tool I have
> which is designed to open it, maybe I can get it open all the way. Or
> after I find my really big water pump pliers.
>
> But assuming this doesn't solve he problem, and assuming the old brake
> pad will go in all the way, is that okay? The old brake pad was in use
> until the accident I've posted about, and it still has plenty of pad on
> it. And two pads of the same age are still in use on the left front
> wheel.
>
> My understanding of disk brakes is that the caliper slides on the upper
> and lower pin and positions itself so the pads are inside the caliper,
> and that it closes when the brake pedal is pushed, And when the brake
> pedal is released, the caliper barely opens and the pads barely move
> back, but somehow this doesn't put drag on the wheels. And nothing
> requires the caliper to be centered above the brake rotor, only that

it
> open wide enough for the rotor and the pads to fit between the jaws of
> the caliper.
>
> Sure the new pad will still be good when it's time to replace the old
> pads, but that won't be for years yet.
>
>


if you don`t find out what is wrong, you will not like the results.
Find the problem. don`t screw with brakes, do it right or don`t do it. KB
  #4  
Old October 5th 14, 03:28 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

On Fri, 03 Oct 2014 17:35:01 -0400, "Steve W." >
wrote:

>micky wrote:
>> Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?
>>
>> AIUI, it doesn't matter.
>>
>> I'm having real trouble getting the inner brake pad to fit all the way
>> into the appropriate space. It won't go in the last 3/8". I'll use a
>> brighter flashlight and try harder to see what is interfering with the
>> thick brake pad, but maybe it is the thickness.
>>
>> The caliper is open all but one mm. and after I modify the tool I have
>> which is designed to open it, maybe I can get it open all the way. Or
>> after I find my really big water pump pliers.
>>
>> But assuming this doesn't solve he problem, and assuming the old brake
>> pad will go in all the way, is that okay? The old brake pad was in use
>> until the accident I've posted about, and it still has plenty of pad on
>> it. And two pads of the same age are still in use on the left front
>> wheel.
>>
>> My understanding of disk brakes is that the caliper slides on the upper
>> and lower pin and positions itself so the pads are inside the caliper,
>> and that it closes when the brake pedal is pushed, And when the brake
>> pedal is released, the caliper barely opens and the pads barely move
>> back, but somehow this doesn't put drag on the wheels. And nothing
>> requires the caliper to be centered above the brake rotor, only that it
>> open wide enough for the rotor and the pads to fit between the jaws of
>> the caliper.
>>
>> Sure the new pad will still be good when it's time to replace the old
>> pads, but that won't be for years yet.
>>
>>

>
>What happened to the outer pad?


The outer pad is new.

> If it was damaged through physical
>impact


Neither the old pad nor of course the new pad was damaged.

>the caliper may also have been damaged enough to cause problems.


It's not damaged either.

>For the cost of a replacement it would be a good investment, then just
>swap the pads on the other side as well.


So, is t here any reason one can't use a pad with some of the braking
material worn off with a new one?


  #5  
Old October 5th 14, 03:33 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

On Fri, 03 Oct 2014 17:35:01 -0400, "Steve W." >
wrote:

>micky wrote:
>> Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?
>>
>> AIUI, it doesn't matter.
>>
>> I'm having real trouble getting the inner brake pad to fit all the way
>> into the appropriate space. It won't go in the last 3/8". I'll use a
>> brighter flashlight and try harder to see what is interfering with the
>> thick brake pad, but maybe it is the thickness.
>>
>> The caliper is open all but one mm. and after I modify the tool I have
>> which is designed to open it, maybe I can get it open all the way. Or
>> after I find my really big water pump pliers.
>>
>> But assuming this doesn't solve he problem, and assuming the old brake
>> pad will go in all the way, is that okay? The old brake pad was in use
>> until the accident I've posted about, and it still has plenty of pad on
>> it. And two pads of the same age are still in use on the left front
>> wheel.
>>
>> My understanding of disk brakes is that the caliper slides on the upper
>> and lower pin and positions itself so the pads are inside the caliper,
>> and that it closes when the brake pedal is pushed, And when the brake
>> pedal is released, the caliper barely opens and the pads barely move
>> back, but somehow this doesn't put drag on the wheels. And nothing
>> requires the caliper to be centered above the brake rotor, only that it
>> open wide enough for the rotor and the pads to fit between the jaws of
>> the caliper.
>>
>> Sure the new pad will still be good when it's time to replace the old
>> pads, but that won't be for years yet.



I should have explained more. My tool for opening calipers will get the
caliper open all but about 1 or 2 mm. This is the reason the I can't
get the new brake pad in place. It has to be open ALL the way. I can
perhaps modify the tool (sand down one side of the handle) so that I can
open the caliper more, but maybe not, and I won't know until the day
Iry.

Idon't want to spend even small parts of separate days on this, so if
the caliper won't open farther, I intend to put the old pad in.

Why would it not be fine to mix a pad with some wear with a new pad?
Both of them are clean.

I don't drive much and the old pad had at least 5 more years in at at
my rate, plus it will have the standard wear indicator to tell me when
it's too worn.

>>

>
>What happened to the outer pad?


The outer pad is new.

> If it was damaged through physical
>impact


Neither the old pad nor of course the new pad was damaged.

>the caliper may also have been damaged enough to cause problems.


It's not damaged either.

>For the cost of a replacement it would be a good investment, then just
>swap the pads on the other side as well.


So, is t here any reason one can't use a pad with some of the braking
material worn off with a new one?


  #6  
Old October 5th 14, 05:38 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
Brent[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,430
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

On 2014-10-05, micky > wrote:

> I should have explained more. My tool for opening calipers will get the
> caliper open all but about 1 or 2 mm. This is the reason the I can't
> get the new brake pad in place. It has to be open ALL the way. I can
> perhaps modify the tool (sand down one side of the handle) so that I can
> open the caliper more, but maybe not, and I won't know until the day
> Iry.


If your tool is out of travel before the caliper is fully open just
stick an old brake pad in there to get the additional travel. Or just
use an old pad and something to push on it.




  #7  
Old October 5th 14, 09:12 AM posted to rec.autos.tech
Steve W.[_6_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,161
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

micky wrote:
> On Fri, 03 Oct 2014 17:35:01 -0400, "Steve W." >
> wrote:
>
>> micky wrote:
>>> Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?
>>>
>>> AIUI, it doesn't matter.
>>>
>>> I'm having real trouble getting the inner brake pad to fit all the way
>>> into the appropriate space. It won't go in the last 3/8". I'll use a
>>> brighter flashlight and try harder to see what is interfering with the
>>> thick brake pad, but maybe it is the thickness.
>>>
>>> The caliper is open all but one mm. and after I modify the tool I have
>>> which is designed to open it, maybe I can get it open all the way. Or
>>> after I find my really big water pump pliers.
>>>
>>> But assuming this doesn't solve he problem, and assuming the old brake
>>> pad will go in all the way, is that okay? The old brake pad was in use
>>> until the accident I've posted about, and it still has plenty of pad on
>>> it. And two pads of the same age are still in use on the left front
>>> wheel.
>>>
>>> My understanding of disk brakes is that the caliper slides on the upper
>>> and lower pin and positions itself so the pads are inside the caliper,
>>> and that it closes when the brake pedal is pushed, And when the brake
>>> pedal is released, the caliper barely opens and the pads barely move
>>> back, but somehow this doesn't put drag on the wheels. And nothing
>>> requires the caliper to be centered above the brake rotor, only that it
>>> open wide enough for the rotor and the pads to fit between the jaws of
>>> the caliper.
>>>
>>> Sure the new pad will still be good when it's time to replace the old
>>> pads, but that won't be for years yet.

>
>
> I should have explained more. My tool for opening calipers will get the
> caliper open all but about 1 or 2 mm. This is the reason the I can't
> get the new brake pad in place. It has to be open ALL the way. I can
> perhaps modify the tool (sand down one side of the handle) so that I can
> open the caliper more, but maybe not, and I won't know until the day
> Iry.
>
> Idon't want to spend even small parts of separate days on this, so if
> the caliper won't open farther, I intend to put the old pad in.
>
> Why would it not be fine to mix a pad with some wear with a new pad?
> Both of them are clean.
>
> I don't drive much and the old pad had at least 5 more years in at at
> my rate, plus it will have the standard wear indicator to tell me when
> it's too worn.
>
>> What happened to the outer pad?

>
> The outer pad is new.
>
>> If it was damaged through physical
>> impact

>
> Neither the old pad nor of course the new pad was damaged.
>
>> the caliper may also have been damaged enough to cause problems.

>
> It's not damaged either.
>
>> For the cost of a replacement it would be a good investment, then just
>> swap the pads on the other side as well.

>
> So, is t here any reason one can't use a pad with some of the braking
> material worn off with a new one?
>
>


OK, As I read what you wrote it seems that
The caliper didn't get hurt.
The pads that were in use when the accident happened are OK as well.
The "old" pads are the same as the ones on the other side of the vehicle.

If that is the case why are you installing new brake pads?
Shouldn't need to if they are OK.

BUT to answer the mixed pads question The answer would be Maybe it's OK.
IF the "old" pads are the exact same material and size as the new ones
and they are OK then you could mix them.

BUT I wouldn't. Brakes are one item you don't play with.
For instance you have a new pad that isn't wore in to the rotor, another
one that is. That will toss the stopping ability off some. It will
likely make the vehicle pull some to the opposite side.

I would replace ALL the pads with new. If you are replacing the rotor I
would also either turn or replace the other side as well.

You do know it will need an alignment to make sure the sub-frame didn't
bend at all. Even a bend as small as 1/4" can throw the alignment out
the window.


--
Steve W.
  #8  
Old October 5th 14, 06:52 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

On Sun, 05 Oct 2014 04:12:19 -0400, "Steve W." >
wrote:

>micky wrote:
>> On Fri, 03 Oct 2014 17:35:01 -0400, "Steve W." >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> micky wrote:
>>>> Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?
>>>>
>>>> AIUI, it doesn't matter.
>>>>
>>>> I'm having real trouble getting the inner brake pad to fit all the way
>>>> into the appropriate space. It won't go in the last 3/8". I'll use a
>>>> brighter flashlight and try harder to see what is interfering with the
>>>> thick brake pad, but maybe it is the thickness.
>>>>
>>>> The caliper is open all but one mm. and after I modify the tool I have
>>>> which is designed to open it, maybe I can get it open all the way. Or
>>>> after I find my really big water pump pliers.
>>>>
>>>> But assuming this doesn't solve he problem, and assuming the old brake
>>>> pad will go in all the way, is that okay? The old brake pad was in use
>>>> until the accident I've posted about, and it still has plenty of pad on
>>>> it. And two pads of the same age are still in use on the left front
>>>> wheel.
>>>>
>>>> My understanding of disk brakes is that the caliper slides on the upper
>>>> and lower pin and positions itself so the pads are inside the caliper,
>>>> and that it closes when the brake pedal is pushed, And when the brake
>>>> pedal is released, the caliper barely opens and the pads barely move
>>>> back, but somehow this doesn't put drag on the wheels. And nothing
>>>> requires the caliper to be centered above the brake rotor, only that it
>>>> open wide enough for the rotor and the pads to fit between the jaws of
>>>> the caliper.
>>>>
>>>> Sure the new pad will still be good when it's time to replace the old
>>>> pads, but that won't be for years yet.

>>
>>
>> I should have explained more. My tool for opening calipers will get the
>> caliper open all but about 1 or 2 mm. This is the reason the I can't
>> get the new brake pad in place. It has to be open ALL the way. I can
>> perhaps modify the tool (sand down one side of the handle) so that I can
>> open the caliper more, but maybe not, and I won't know until the day
>> Iry.
>>
>> Idon't want to spend even small parts of separate days on this, so if
>> the caliper won't open farther, I intend to put the old pad in.
>>
>> Why would it not be fine to mix a pad with some wear with a new pad?
>> Both of them are clean.
>>
>> I don't drive much and the old pad had at least 5 more years in at at
>> my rate, plus it will have the standard wear indicator to tell me when
>> it's too worn.
>>
>>> What happened to the outer pad?

>>
>> The outer pad is new.
>>
>>> If it was damaged through physical
>>> impact

>>
>> Neither the old pad nor of course the new pad was damaged.
>>
>>> the caliper may also have been damaged enough to cause problems.

>>
>> It's not damaged either.
>>
>>> For the cost of a replacement it would be a good investment, then just
>>> swap the pads on the other side as well.

>>
>> So, is t here any reason one can't use a pad with some of the braking
>> material worn off with a new one?
>>
>>

>
>OK, As I read what you wrote it seems that
>The caliper didn't get hurt.
>The pads that were in use when the accident happened are OK as well.
>The "old" pads are the same as the ones on the other side of the vehicle.
>
>If that is the case why are you installing new brake pads?


Sorry. One just disappeared, I think. I found one pad on the
street, away from everything. But now I'm not sure if the other pad was
in the caliper or not. If no, it really did disappear, but if yes, that
means I did have both of them and I lost one. It's been about a month,
but I should remember, but now i realize I don't.

I went back and looked around and all I found was some of that black
stuff which is the opposite** of styrofoam. No other parts, no damage
to the road, or the curb, or the grass.

**Instead of plastic with holes where the air bubbles were (when
styrofoam was foaming), this stuff has little soft plastic beads, all
stuck together, with some empty space between the spheres. Is there a
name for that?

I guess it was there to reinforce my fender, but not too well because
even before the accident, if I leaned against the fender it popped in.
Lucky for me it popped out when I stopped touching it. (That was more
the top of the fender, and I'm guessing this was from the bottom. Some
day I'll look at the other side.)


>Shouldn't need to if they are OK.
>
>BUT to answer the mixed pads question The answer would be Maybe it's OK.
>IF the "old" pads are the exact same material and size as the new ones
>and they are OK then you could mix them.
>
>BUT I wouldn't. Brakes are one item you don't play with.
>For instance you have a new pad that isn't wore in to the rotor, another
>one that is. That will toss the stopping ability off some. It will
>likely make the vehicle pull some to the opposite side.
>
>I would replace ALL the pads with new. If you are replacing the rotor I
>would also either turn or replace the other side as well.
>
>You do know it will need an alignment to make sure the sub-frame didn't
>bend at all. Even a bend as small as 1/4" can throw the alignment out
>the window.


Yes, but thanks for reminding me.
  #9  
Old October 5th 14, 06:55 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

On Sun, 5 Oct 2014 04:38:52 +0000 (UTC), Brent
> wrote:

>On 2014-10-05, micky > wrote:
>
>> I should have explained more. My tool for opening calipers will get the
>> caliper open all but about 1 or 2 mm. This is the reason the I can't
>> get the new brake pad in place. It has to be open ALL the way. I can
>> perhaps modify the tool (sand down one side of the handle) so that I can
>> open the caliper more, but maybe not, and I won't know until the day
>> Iry.

>
>If your tool is out of travel before the caliper is fully open just
>stick an old brake pad in there to get the additional travel. Or just
>use an old pad and something to push on it.


Duh. Why couldn't I think of that?

I'm glad I hadn't ground the handle down yet.

Thanks.


>
>


  #10  
Old October 6th 14, 03:47 PM posted to rec.autos.tech
Ivan Vegvary[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 57
Default Do brake pads have to be the same thickness?

I am an amateur! But I always spread the caliper PRIOR to any disassembly. Large screwdriver wedged against the old pad, a fee ounces of pull and plenty of patience. Takes as long as 10 to 15 seconds for the fluid to flow back.
Ivan Vegvary
 




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