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How hard is it to replace seatbelt?



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 5th 07, 11:32 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
JENNIFER SMITH
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 17
Default How hard is it to replace seatbelt?

I have a 1993 Explorer Sport and I need to take the old seatbelt and replace
it. The stitching rotted out from where it attaches to the bracket in the
floorboard. I found the bolt that holds the bracket in to the floorboard
and saw that I need a set of Torx drivers to take it and the bracket where
the seatbelt goes thru up near the roof. Are there going to be any problems
I will run into while taking the seatbelt out? I plan on a nice used one
from a junkyard in, and figured I would take mine out first, so that I know
what I am doing when I get to the junkyard (I will be removing the
replacement from a junker myself). Thanks in advance...

Jarrod


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  #2  
Old July 6th 07, 01:33 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Bob[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 82
Default How hard is it to replace seatbelt?

Jennifer Smith wrote:
> I have a 1993 Explorer Sport and I need to take the old seatbelt and replace
> it. The stitching rotted out from where it attaches to the bracket in the
> floorboard. I found the bolt that holds the bracket in to the floorboard
> and saw that I need a set of Torx drivers to take it and the bracket where
> the seatbelt goes thru up near the roof. Are there going to be any problems
> I will run into while taking the seatbelt out? I plan on a nice used one
> from a junkyard in, and figured I would take mine out first, so that I know
> what I am doing when I get to the junkyard (I will be removing the
> replacement from a junker myself). Thanks in advance...
>
> Jarrod
>
>

I just replaced the seatbelt on my '94 with a new aftermarket one I
found for $50. It took about 2 hours to remove and replace including
time it took to cut a hole in the plastic trim because the rewind
mechanism is a little thicker than the original. Works great. I'd favor
a new one over a junkyard one for safety.

It's pretty straightforward to replace, you'll have to remove the seat
which is easy - 4 easily accessible bolts. Use the new bolts and washers
that come with the replacement belt.
  #3  
Old July 11th 07, 07:36 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Ulysses[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 112
Default How hard is it to replace seatbelt?


"Jennifer Smith" > wrote in message
news:7keji.35334$Of2.29788@trnddc06...
> I have a 1993 Explorer Sport and I need to take the old seatbelt and

replace
> it. The stitching rotted out from where it attaches to the bracket in the
> floorboard. I found the bolt that holds the bracket in to the floorboard
> and saw that I need a set of Torx drivers to take it and the bracket where
> the seatbelt goes thru up near the roof. Are there going to be any

problems
> I will run into while taking the seatbelt out? I plan on a nice used one
> from a junkyard in, and figured I would take mine out first, so that I

know
> what I am doing when I get to the junkyard (I will be removing the
> replacement from a junker myself). Thanks in advance...
>
> Jarrod
>
>


If I recall correctly you also need the Torx bit just to remove the plastic
insert that covers the bolts. I found mine to be torqued down very tightly
and needed a breaker bar to loosen them.


  #4  
Old July 20th 07, 05:00 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
JENNIFER SMITH
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 17
Default How hard is it to replace seatbelt?

"Ulysses" /> wrote in message
...
>
> "Jennifer Smith" > wrote in message
> news:7keji.35334$Of2.29788@trnddc06...
>> I have a 1993 Explorer Sport and I need to take the old seatbelt and

> replace
>> it. The stitching rotted out from where it attaches to the bracket in
>> the
>> floorboard. I found the bolt that holds the bracket in to the floorboard
>> and saw that I need a set of Torx drivers to take it and the bracket
>> where
>> the seatbelt goes thru up near the roof. Are there going to be any

> problems
>> I will run into while taking the seatbelt out? I plan on a nice used one
>> from a junkyard in, and figured I would take mine out first, so that I

> know
>> what I am doing when I get to the junkyard (I will be removing the
>> replacement from a junker myself). Thanks in advance...
>>
>> Jarrod
>>
>>

>
> If I recall correctly you also need the Torx bit just to remove the
> plastic
> insert that covers the bolts. I found mine to be torqued down very
> tightly
> and needed a breaker bar to loosen them.
>
>

Just a quick update on this. I got a garage to take the bolt out from the
floorboard (rather than scrape any more knuckles). I took the entire
seatbelt to an upholstery repair shop that has a heavy duty (industrial)
sewing machine. Got the seatbelt sewn good as new for $5 and reinstalled it
that night. I decided against going with a belt out of a junker since I had
so much trouble trying to get the bolt out of the floorboard on mine. Also
decided against an aftermarket belt due to previous post regarding different
size and having to modify the trim.

Jarrod


  #5  
Old July 22nd 07, 11:11 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer
Bob[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 82
Default How hard is it to replace seatbelt?

Jennifer Smith wrote:
> "Ulysses" /> wrote in message
> ...
>> "Jennifer Smith" > wrote in message
>> news:7keji.35334$Of2.29788@trnddc06...
>>> I have a 1993 Explorer Sport and I need to take the old seatbelt and

>> replace
>>> it. The stitching rotted out from where it attaches to the bracket in
>>> the
>>> floorboard. I found the bolt that holds the bracket in to the floorboard
>>> and saw that I need a set of Torx drivers to take it and the bracket
>>> where
>>> the seatbelt goes thru up near the roof. Are there going to be any

>> problems
>>> I will run into while taking the seatbelt out? I plan on a nice used one
>>> from a junkyard in, and figured I would take mine out first, so that I

>> know
>>> what I am doing when I get to the junkyard (I will be removing the
>>> replacement from a junker myself). Thanks in advance...
>>>
>>> Jarrod
>>>
>>>

>> If I recall correctly you also need the Torx bit just to remove the
>> plastic
>> insert that covers the bolts. I found mine to be torqued down very
>> tightly
>> and needed a breaker bar to loosen them.
>>
>>

> Just a quick update on this. I got a garage to take the bolt out from the
> floorboard (rather than scrape any more knuckles). I took the entire
> seatbelt to an upholstery repair shop that has a heavy duty (industrial)
> sewing machine. Got the seatbelt sewn good as new for $5 and reinstalled it
> that night. I decided against going with a belt out of a junker since I had
> so much trouble trying to get the bolt out of the floorboard on mine. Also
> decided against an aftermarket belt due to previous post regarding different
> size and having to modify the trim.
>
> Jarrod
>
>

Glad you found an inexpensive fix. The problem with mine was the
retractor mechanism was inop. So I had to replace with a whole new belt.
I didn't have any trouble with any of the bolts, they were tight but a
3/8 drive rachet easily unbolted them. I'm thinking it would be a good
idea to recheck the torque on the replacment's bolts in a few weeks (but
I'll forget...)
 




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