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#1
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My 1991 Chevy cavalier won't start
Two months back I purchased 2 cavaliers without seeing them (big
mistake), even though I didn't pay much, I'm starting to have my doubts. The original idea was to get a car for cheep and fix it up while learning car repair. I think I got in over my head. One had got into an accident and was going to be the parts car, and the other needed an alternator and muffler. One had only " a little rust ". After I got a good look at them it was obvious that it wasn't worth it, my attention went to the banged-up one because, sadly, it was in better shape. Unlike the other one there was no rust and great suspension and all the rubber is good. The problem is that I can't get the car started. The car had been taken apart and everything was disconnected (the AC and alternator were also gone). I think I connected all the parts and wires. The cars lights, radio, wipers and heater fan all work. The battery sits at 12 V and when you crank it makes no sound, except when you listen under the hood you can hear the fuel injection. The starter makes no sound. I tried testing the starter by using a voltmeter - to S wire and + to battery and the voltmeter showed an unsteady voltage of up to 9 V, but no higher than that in the run position. When put into start position there was still no change in the voltage. I know that the voltage at the S wire should be 12 when cranked and zero when not. I think the problem is inconsistent voltage and voltage in run position. Being new to car repair I don't know how to repair the problem and more importantly I don't know what the problem is. I also tried starting the car in drive, reverse, neutral, and having the key in start position while moving the gearshift to test the neutral safety switch. I would greatly appreciate any help. |
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#2
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I'd presume the first thing is to get it to crank. You've taken on a heck of
a project for a beginner. You could remove the starter and get it to 'kick' sitting on a table or on the ground first by jumpering. Know that that much is good before you put the thing on the car the go from there. A local parts store may have a test bench for free since they sell starters, they test them for cutomers becuase you'd most likely buy a new one from them if needed. then to step 2..... |
#3
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What is the voltage AT THE BATTERY when you try to crank?
"KingWalter" > wrote in message oups.com... > Two months back I purchased 2 cavaliers without seeing them (big > mistake), even though I didn't pay much, I'm starting to have my > doubts. > The original idea was to get a car for cheep and fix it up while > learning car repair. I think I got in over my head. One had got into > an accident and was going to be the parts car, and the other needed an > alternator and muffler. One had only " a little rust ". > After I got a good look at them it was obvious that it wasn't worth > it, my attention went to the banged-up one because, sadly, it was in > better shape. Unlike the other one there was no rust and great > suspension and all the rubber is good. > > The problem is that I can't get the car started. The car had been > taken apart and everything was disconnected (the AC and alternator were > also gone). I think I connected all the parts and wires. > The cars lights, radio, wipers and heater fan all work. The battery > sits at 12 V and when you crank it makes no sound, except when you > listen under the hood you can hear the fuel injection. The starter > makes no sound. I tried testing the starter by using a voltmeter - > to S wire and + to battery and the voltmeter showed an unsteady voltage > of up to 9 V, but no higher than that in the run position. When put > into start position there was still no change in the voltage. > I know that the voltage at the S wire should be 12 when cranked and > zero when not. I think the problem is inconsistent voltage and voltage > in run position. Being new to car repair I don't know how to repair > the problem and more importantly I don't know what the problem is. > I also tried starting the car in drive, reverse, neutral, and having > the key in start position while moving the gearshift to test the > neutral safety switch. > > I would greatly appreciate any help. > |
#4
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On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 18:42:22 GMT, "Woody" > wrote:
>What is the voltage AT THE BATTERY when you try to crank? 10 point 2 or greater if the battery is OK Lg > > >"KingWalter" > wrote in message roups.com... >> Two months back I purchased 2 cavaliers without seeing them (big >> mistake), even though I didn't pay much, I'm starting to have my >> doubts. >> The original idea was to get a car for cheep and fix it up while >> learning car repair. I think I got in over my head. One had got into >> an accident and was going to be the parts car, and the other needed an >> alternator and muffler. One had only " a little rust ". >> After I got a good look at them it was obvious that it wasn't worth >> it, my attention went to the banged-up one because, sadly, it was in >> better shape. Unlike the other one there was no rust and great >> suspension and all the rubber is good. >> >> The problem is that I can't get the car started. The car had been >> taken apart and everything was disconnected (the AC and alternator were >> also gone). I think I connected all the parts and wires. >> The cars lights, radio, wipers and heater fan all work. The battery >> sits at 12 V and when you crank it makes no sound, except when you >> listen under the hood you can hear the fuel injection. The starter >> makes no sound. I tried testing the starter by using a voltmeter - >> to S wire and + to battery and the voltmeter showed an unsteady voltage >> of up to 9 V, but no higher than that in the run position. When put >> into start position there was still no change in the voltage. >> I know that the voltage at the S wire should be 12 when cranked and >> zero when not. I think the problem is inconsistent voltage and voltage >> in run position. Being new to car repair I don't know how to repair >> the problem and more importantly I don't know what the problem is. >> I also tried starting the car in drive, reverse, neutral, and having >> the key in start position while moving the gearshift to test the >> neutral safety switch. >> >> I would greatly appreciate any help. >> > |
#5
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this is new, i tried to start the car and see what voltage was at the
battery. when cranked it was 11.9. the thing is while i was there i decided to see if i got voltage at the starter when in off position. there was none at all. i think this means that the starter Solenoid is bad. could this be right? ed said something helpful but I'm not that clear on. to test the starter you basically hook up the starter outside the car only with the jumper cables with same power route. thanks to all and please bare with me. |
#6
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On 2 Feb 2005 13:57:16 -0800, "KingWalter" >
wrote: >this is new, i tried to start the car and see what voltage was at the >battery. when cranked it was 11.9. >the thing is while i was there i decided to see if i got voltage at >the starter when in off position. there was none at all. i think this >means that the starter Solenoid is bad. >could this be right? >ed said something helpful but I'm not that clear on. to test the >starter you basically hook up the starter outside the car only with the >jumper cables with same power route. >thanks to all and please bare with me. Well I'll help with the car buy I'm not gonna "bare" with you unless you buy a heck of a lot of booze. :-) You should have one big cable attached to the starter and one or more smaller ones. The big cable is B+ coming from the battery and should be at 12v always. One of the smaller ones will be the power for the solenoid. That one should only have 12v when the key is in the start position. You can get a remote starter switch and attach to your starter terminals to see if the starter turns while bypassing all the cars wiring and safety devices. Lack of voltage doesn't indicate a bad solenoid if the key was off. If the big wire has no power then remove your battery cables from the battery and clean everything up then put them back and see if anything changes. You can hook up the car using jumper cables outside the car or while it is still attached to the car BUT this really isn't a safe thing to do especially for someone who is new at this stuff. Be safe and use a remoter start switch or pull the starter and have it tested for free at your local discount auto parts place (dont buy a new starter from there if you need one). Make sure you have voltage present before you do anything else though. Steve B. |
#7
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Steve B. wrote:
> On 2 Feb 2005 13:57:16 -0800, "KingWalter" > > wrote: > > >this is new, i tried to start the car and see what voltage was at the > >battery. when cranked it was 11.9. > >the thing is while i was there i decided to see if i got voltage at > >the starter when in off position. there was none at all. i think this > >means that the starter Solenoid is bad. > >could this be right? > >ed said something helpful but I'm not that clear on. to test the > >starter you basically hook up the starter outside the car only with the > >jumper cables with same power route. > >thanks to all and please bare with me. > > Well I'll help with the car buy I'm not gonna "bare" with you unless > you buy a heck of a lot of booze. :-) > > You should have one big cable attached to the starter and one or more > smaller ones. The big cable is B+ coming from the battery and should > be at 12v always. One of the smaller ones will be the power for the > solenoid. That one should only have 12v when the key is in the start > position. You can get a remote starter switch and attach to your > starter terminals to see if the starter turns while bypassing all the > cars wiring and safety devices. > > Lack of voltage doesn't indicate a bad solenoid if the key was off. > If the big wire has no power then remove your battery cables from the > battery and clean everything up then put them back and see if anything > changes. > > You can hook up the car using jumper cables outside the car or while > it is still attached to the car BUT this really isn't a safe thing to > do especially for someone who is new at this stuff. Be safe and use a > remoter start switch or pull the starter and have it tested for free > at your local discount auto parts place (dont buy a new starter from > there if you need one). Make sure you have voltage present before you > do anything else though. > > Steve B. The car is back to normal. I get the same voltage, only a little more erratic, but still no start or sound. I tested the wire from the battery to the starter solenoid battery terminal. My setup may be slightly different from yours. My starter has no direct link to the battery; it's only power supply being from the solenoid, which consists of a battery terminal, a switch terminal, and a motor terminal. I'm planning on doing the starter bypass this weekend and I just want to be clear on how to do it. The idea is to connect jumper cables positive to the battery terminal and the negative to the starter wire. If this is wrong please tell me I'd really rather prefer not being blown up. To review, just in case anyone has gotten confused with all the between correspondences, the car does not start, there is no sound from the starter or anywhere else, except if you listen closely under the hood you can hear something that sounds like the fuel injectors. Testing the starter with the plus to the battery and the minus to the starter wire on solenoid, There is irregular charge of up to 9 volts no matter if the car is in off, run, or start position. The other day, there was no voltage coming from the starter wire at all. P.S. To Steve B. I am sorry to say that I am under legal drinking age. :-( Please help. |
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