WHEEL BEARING

Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾ ton
pickup?

While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the Wheel
bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
socket.

If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I am
very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
obsessively afterward.

Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
etc...)
Remove wheel
Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
(once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the HUB
to the axle
Remove Spring clip.
Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
right?)
clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2" retaining
nut
behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the nut
in place.
this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.

OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the direction
to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
by hand.
Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed in
there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to the
next step and come back later to remove them.

Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
(remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and carefully
sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards you
and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
off before do it now.
turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place and
this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will contact
the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
Bearings pop right out.

At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got ready
to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
things to remember to make it easy and correct.
1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around making
sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the grease
in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing that
worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
(Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the bag
and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like a
cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.

continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you turn
the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me to
tell about it.
"FOR1196D" > wrote in message
...
> Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
ton
> pickup?

While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the Wheel
bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
socket.

If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I am
very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
obsessively afterward.

Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
etc...)
Remove wheel
Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
(once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the HUB
to the axle
Remove Spring clip.
Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
right?)
clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2" retaining
nut
behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the nut
in place.
this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.

OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the direction
to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
by hand.
Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed in
there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to the
next step and come back later to remove them.

Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
(remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and carefully
sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards you
and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
off before do it now.
turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place and
this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will contact
the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
Bearings pop right out.

At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got ready
to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
things to remember to make it easy and correct.
1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around making
sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the grease
in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing that
worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
(Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the bag
and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like a
cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.

continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you turn
the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me to
tell about it.
"FOR1196D" > wrote in message
...
> Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
ton
> pickup?

For the tire wear on one side you need to change King Pin bearings. They are
placed on the upper and lower sides of ball steering knuckle. There are two
bearings on each side of the front axle. They are placed behind pin cap with
four bolts up and down on the knuckle. When you change them than go to front
wheel alignment.


"xyzzy" > wrote in message
...
> While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the
Wheel
> bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
> bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
> not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
> manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
> issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
> that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
> socket.
>
> If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
> following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I
am
> very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
> obsessively afterward.
>
> Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
> etc...)
> Remove wheel
> Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
> Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
> (once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
> after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the
HUB
> to the axle
> Remove Spring clip.
> Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
> right?)
> clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2"
retaining
> nut
> behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the
nut
> in place.
> this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.
>
> OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
> Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
> My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
> much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
> there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
> sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the
direction
> to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
> by hand.
> Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
> another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
> At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed
in
> there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to
the
> next step and come back later to remove them.
>
> Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
> (remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
> involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and
carefully
> sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
> thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
> not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
> out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards
you
> and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
> off before do it now.
> turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place
and
> this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
> bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will
contact
> the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
> Bearings pop right out.
>
> At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got
ready
> to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
> things to remember to make it easy and correct.
> 1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
> palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
> 2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
> for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
> set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around
making
> sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
> 3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
> inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the
grease
> in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing
that
> worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
> (Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the
bag
> and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like
a
> cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.
>
> continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you
turn
> the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
> before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me
to
> tell about it.
> "FOR1196D" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
> ton
> > pickup?
>
>
>

For the tire wear on one side you need to change King Pin bearings. They are
placed on the upper and lower sides of ball steering knuckle. There are two
bearings on each side of the front axle. They are placed behind pin cap with
four bolts up and down on the knuckle. When you change them than go to front
wheel alignment.


"xyzzy" > wrote in message
...
> While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the
Wheel
> bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
> bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
> not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
> manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
> issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
> that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
> socket.
>
> If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
> following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I
am
> very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
> obsessively afterward.
>
> Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
> etc...)
> Remove wheel
> Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
> Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
> (once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
> after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the
HUB
> to the axle
> Remove Spring clip.
> Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
> right?)
> clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2"
retaining
> nut
> behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the
nut
> in place.
> this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.
>
> OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
> Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
> My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
> much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
> there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
> sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the
direction
> to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
> by hand.
> Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
> another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
> At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed
in
> there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to
the
> next step and come back later to remove them.
>
> Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
> (remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
> involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and
carefully
> sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
> thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
> not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
> out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards
you
> and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
> off before do it now.
> turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place
and
> this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
> bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will
contact
> the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
> Bearings pop right out.
>
> At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got
ready
> to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
> things to remember to make it easy and correct.
> 1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
> palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
> 2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
> for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
> set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around
making
> sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
> 3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
> inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the
grease
> in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing
that
> worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
> (Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the
bag
> and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like
a
> cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.
>
> continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you
turn
> the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
> before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me
to
> tell about it.
> "FOR1196D" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
> ton
> > pickup?
>
>
>

hey y'all...........

While the hub nut socket IS a little expensive, rember this: while it may
be a simple procedure to disassemble things using hammer & pin punch, the
re-assembly is where they earn their keep. Every axle assy. has pre-load or
clearance specifications which MUST be followed to ensure a trouble-free
job.I have a collection of those sockets, and will buy another if the need
arises.
Leave this kind of improvising toMcGeyver!






"xyzzy" > wrote in message
...
> While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the
Wheel
> bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
> bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
> not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
> manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
> issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
> that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
> socket.
>
> If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
> following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I
am
> very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
> obsessively afterward.
>
> Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
> etc...)
> Remove wheel
> Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
> Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
> (once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
> after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the
HUB
> to the axle
> Remove Spring clip.
> Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
> right?)
> clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2"
retaining
> nut
> behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the
nut
> in place.
> this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.
>
> OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
> Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
> My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
> much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
> there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
> sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the
direction
> to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
> by hand.
> Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
> another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
> At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed
in
> there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to
the
> next step and come back later to remove them.
>
> Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
> (remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
> involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and
carefully
> sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
> thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
> not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
> out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards
you
> and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
> off before do it now.
> turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place
and
> this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
> bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will
contact
> the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
> Bearings pop right out.
>
> At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got
ready
> to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
> things to remember to make it easy and correct.
> 1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
> palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
> 2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
> for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
> set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around
making
> sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
> 3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
> inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the
grease
> in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing
that
> worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
> (Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the
bag
> and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like
a
> cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.
>
> continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you
turn
> the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
> before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me
to
> tell about it.
> "FOR1196D" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
> ton
> > pickup?
>
>
>

hey y'all...........

While the hub nut socket IS a little expensive, rember this: while it may
be a simple procedure to disassemble things using hammer & pin punch, the
re-assembly is where they earn their keep. Every axle assy. has pre-load or
clearance specifications which MUST be followed to ensure a trouble-free
job.I have a collection of those sockets, and will buy another if the need
arises.
Leave this kind of improvising toMcGeyver!






"xyzzy" > wrote in message
...
> While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the
Wheel
> bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
> bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
> not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
> manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
> issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
> that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
> socket.
>
> If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
> following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I
am
> very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
> obsessively afterward.
>
> Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
> etc...)
> Remove wheel
> Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
> Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
> (once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
> after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the
HUB
> to the axle
> Remove Spring clip.
> Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
> right?)
> clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2"
retaining
> nut
> behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the
nut
> in place.
> this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.
>
> OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
> Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
> My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
> much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
> there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
> sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the
direction
> to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
> by hand.
> Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
> another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
> At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed
in
> there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to
the
> next step and come back later to remove them.
>
> Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
> (remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
> involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and
carefully
> sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
> thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
> not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
> out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards
you
> and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
> off before do it now.
> turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place
and
> this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
> bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will
contact
> the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
> Bearings pop right out.
>
> At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got
ready
> to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
> things to remember to make it easy and correct.
> 1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
> palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
> 2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
> for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
> set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around
making
> sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
> 3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
> inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the
grease
> in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing
that
> worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
> (Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the
bag
> and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like
a
> cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.
>
> continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you
turn
> the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
> before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me
to
> tell about it.
> "FOR1196D" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
> ton
> > pickup?
>
>
>

Your next logical step would be to start pricing out spindles and hubs
after this set you just put in burn up.

You can't do a set of new bearings by hand and expect the job to last
more than a couple weeks if that before the wheel is floppy. If you
don't do it again right as soon as the wheel flops, likely within 100
miles, it will spin the bearing or washboard them only if you are
lucky. Washboarded ones can be replaced, spun ones need the whole thing
replaced.

Bearings need to be pre torqued or pre loaded with a torque wrench to
properly seat them.

Once seated, then you can finish the job by hand while spinning the tire
as you describe below.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

xyzzy wrote:
>
> While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the Wheel
> bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
> bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
> not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
> manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
> issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
> that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
> socket.
>
> If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
> following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I am
> very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
> obsessively afterward.
>
> Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
> etc...)
> Remove wheel
> Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
> Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
> (once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
> after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the HUB
> to the axle
> Remove Spring clip.
> Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
> right?)
> clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2" retaining
> nut
> behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the nut
> in place.
> this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.
>
> OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
> Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
> My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
> much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
> there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
> sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the direction
> to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
> by hand.
> Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
> another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
> At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed in
> there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to the
> next step and come back later to remove them.
>
> Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
> (remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
> involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and carefully
> sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
> thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
> not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
> out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards you
> and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
> off before do it now.
> turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place and
> this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
> bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will contact
> the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
> Bearings pop right out.
>
> At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got ready
> to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
> things to remember to make it easy and correct.
> 1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
> palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
> 2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
> for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
> set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around making
> sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
> 3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
> inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the grease
> in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing that
> worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
> (Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the bag
> and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like a
> cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.
>
> continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you turn
> the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
> before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me to
> tell about it.
> "FOR1196D" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
> ton
> > pickup?

Your next logical step would be to start pricing out spindles and hubs
after this set you just put in burn up.

You can't do a set of new bearings by hand and expect the job to last
more than a couple weeks if that before the wheel is floppy. If you
don't do it again right as soon as the wheel flops, likely within 100
miles, it will spin the bearing or washboard them only if you are
lucky. Washboarded ones can be replaced, spun ones need the whole thing
replaced.

Bearings need to be pre torqued or pre loaded with a torque wrench to
properly seat them.

Once seated, then you can finish the job by hand while spinning the tire
as you describe below.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

xyzzy wrote:
>
> While I don't know what is different in a Dodge pickup, I just did the Wheel
> bearings on my car the other day, Each wheel has an inner and an outer
> bearing. The job was VERY easy, as I am NOT mechanically inclined. and do
> not usually do much auto repair other than easy stuff. I used a Haynes
> manual for my car and found the instructions were pretty good. The only
> issues I have were that I bought a Tool to remove the Large retaining nuts
> that cost me $29 and then found I could have gotten them off without the
> socket.
>
> If you are having a particular problem - give more detail, otherwise the
> following proceedure worked for me, I spent about 2 hours per wheel and I am
> very slow and methodical and this time included Cleaning each of my tools
> obsessively afterward.
>
> Safely - Jack up front side you will work on (Wheel chocks, parking break
> etc...)
> Remove wheel
> Note: mine is a 4x4 so skip this if it doesn't apply
> Remove bolts to 4wd hubs
> (once the outer bolts are removed the cap can be removed)
> after cleaning away some grease you will see the Spring clip holding the HUB
> to the axle
> Remove Spring clip.
> Slide 4wd hub off ( you did already remove the bolts to the outer casing
> right?)
> clean away a bit more grease and you will see a large 2" - 2 1/2" retaining
> nut
> behind this is a Lock washer and one of the tabs is bent up to lock the nut
> in place.
> this tab must be pryed up and then flattened to allow the nut to turn.
>
> OK here is where I diverge from the "correct method"
> Buy and use a 2 - 2 1/2" socket and remove the Nut is the recommended step
> My suggestion first try to loosen by hand - the nut is not torqued down to
> much and with all the grease it comes off pretty easily. If it does not
> there is always the "Unauthorized next thing to try" tap one of the high
> sides of the nut with a screwdriver tapped by a hammer, tap in the direction
> to loosen the nut and it will probably break loose, you can then remove it
> by hand.
> Clean away a bit more grease and there is another washer to remove, then
> another 2 - 2 1/2" nut (see above for removal suggestions
> At this point the outer bearings should come out, only the grease packed in
> there should be holding it. if it gives you a problem you could go on to the
> next step and come back later to remove them.
>
> Now this part sounded tricky but it was really easier than I imagined
> (remember I don't usually work on cars) remove the caliper brakes - this
> involved removing 2 bolts from the back of the brake assemnbly and carefully
> sliding the caliper assembly up and off the disc. (At this time the only
> thing holding the brakes besides your hand is the flexible brake line - DO
> not let it hang or fall, use a coat hanger or wire to tie it up somewhere
> out of the way. At this point you can grab the Disc plate - pull towards you
> and the whole assembly will come off. If you didn't get the outer bearings
> off before do it now.
> turn the disc over - there is a seal holding the inner bearings in place and
> this was difficult to get out until I remembered the guy that sold me the
> bearings said to use a 2x2 - A piece of 2x2 fed from the front will contact
> the bearings - tap it with a hammer from the other side and the Seal and
> Bearings pop right out.
>
> At this point I obsessively cleaned out all of the old grease and got ready
> to reassemble it all. Reassembly is done in the reverse order, with only 3
> things to remember to make it easy and correct.
> 1) Put grease into the palm of your hand and roll the bearings into your
> palm forcing grease into every nook and cranny.
> 2) That seal that was hard to get out is also hard to get in - another use
> for wood - get a short piece of 2x4 set the seal in the opening - level -
> set the 2x4 on top and tap the wood with a hammer , gently all around making
> sure the seal is fitting in evenly, keep tapping till seal is flush
> 3) when you put the disc back on the spindle you want to put grease up
> inside, this is harder than it sounds. the book suggested forcing the grease
> in with your finger while making a dam of grease etc... An easier thing that
> worked great I learned from the Cake decorators - I got a sandwich bag
> (Plastic) bit a small hole in the bottom corner, put some grease in the bag
> and squeezed it down to the corner with the small hole. then using it like a
> cake decorator I Squeezed greaase in the opening filling it.
>
> continue reassembly - torque specs are given for the 2 nuts, but if you turn
> the wheel as you tighten the nut make sure everything is seated completely
> before contiuing on. you will probably finish in half the time it took me to
> tell about it.
> "FOR1196D" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Does anybody have a easy way to remove front wheel bearings on a dodge ¾
> ton
> > pickup?