97 TJ Hard Starting

I purchased a 97 TJ with 60,000 miles a couple of months ago. When I
first got it, it always started right after I cranked the engine. There
were a few times, however, where the engine would take a couple extra
seconds to start. It probably only happened twice in the first two
months I had it. Then last week it became very difficult to start (cold
or warm). It is to the point where you have to hold the key for a good
5 seconds or more. To get around this problem, I turn the key to "on"
but not "start" for a few seconds. I repeat that about three times and
then try starting the truck. It then starts without a problem. Someone
suggested that I need a new fuel check valve. Since the valve is stuck
open, the gas drains to the engine, and you now have to "prime" it in
order to get it to start. Does this seem like the proper diagnosis? And
can I get a new check valve, or is it part of the fuel pump? Has anyone
replaced this part before, and is it something I can do myself?

Thanks,
Mike

wrote:
> I purchased a 97 TJ with 60,000 miles a couple of months ago. When I
> first got it, it always started right after I cranked the engine.
> There were a few times, however, where the engine would take a couple
> extra seconds to start. It probably only happened twice in the first
> two months I had it. Then last week it became very difficult to start
> (cold or warm). It is to the point where you have to hold the key for
> a good 5 seconds or more. To get around this problem, I turn the key
> to "on" but not "start" for a few seconds. I repeat that about three
> times and then try starting the truck. It then starts without a
> problem. Someone suggested that I need a new fuel check valve. Since
> the valve is stuck open, the gas drains to the engine, and you now
> have to "prime" it in order to get it to start. Does this seem like
> the proper diagnosis? And can I get a new check valve, or is it part
> of the fuel pump? Has anyone replaced this part before, and is it
> something I can do myself?

There are two valves. One is in the fuel rail at the return and has
a vac line hanging off of it. The other is part of the fuel pump.

Testing pump pressure and valve has to be done with a special hose
setup that has valves, you don't want to crimp fuel lines to test
it yourself, it's real bad on the hose.

Get a fuel pressure gauge with drain. Sears has it, so do most
auto stores.
http://www.allproducts.com/manufactu...512717936.html
or similar.

To check the regulator.
Measure the rail with the engine running, it should be about 31 psi.
Take the vac line off and the pressure should jump by about 8-10 psi.
(if gas runs out the hole on the regulator, it's shot)

If your getting good fuel pressure then it might be the CPS sensor.
Although that usually results in no start at all.

--
DougW

The gas drains to the tank, if it is a fuel check valve problem, not the
engine. If it is in the fuel pump, you will have to drop the tank to get at
it. It is not too bad if the tank is near empty, but rusted bolts can be a
problem. The manual I have (2003 TJ) claims that the fuel tank check valve
is mounted onto the top of the fuel tank or fuel pump module. The picture
shows two check valves and a fuel management valve on or near the top of the
tank. One of these is the one that could be giving you the problem, and the
other two are doubtless part of the emissions (vapor recovery) system. I
recommend first putting a pressure gauge on the fuel rail test port, to
verify that this is indeed the problem. If it is, the pressure should be
zero or real close after leaving the vehicle for a while.

Earle

> wrote in message
ps.com...
> I purchased a 97 TJ with 60,000 miles a couple of months ago. When I
> first got it, it always started right after I cranked the engine. There
> were a few times, however, where the engine would take a couple extra
> seconds to start. It probably only happened twice in the first two
> months I had it. Then last week it became very difficult to start (cold
> or warm). It is to the point where you have to hold the key for a good
> 5 seconds or more. To get around this problem, I turn the key to "on"
> but not "start" for a few seconds. I repeat that about three times and
> then try starting the truck. It then starts without a problem. Someone
> suggested that I need a new fuel check valve. Since the valve is stuck
> open, the gas drains to the engine, and you now have to "prime" it in
> order to get it to start. Does this seem like the proper diagnosis? And
> can I get a new check valve, or is it part of the fuel pump? Has anyone
> replaced this part before, and is it something I can do myself?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Ok. I'm going to try to see if I can rent one of those gauges tomorrow.
I'll let you guys know what results I come up with in a couple of days.

(And yes, I did mean fuel draining to the tank, not the engine).