76 Difficult Cold Starts

"Fred" > wrote in message et>...
> <<...The main metering wells are leaking since the solder plugs that close
> the drilled ports have gotten loose. Take the carburetor off and buy a
> rebuild kit that has the foam plug that you can install between the throttle
> plate and the bowl. This will cure the hard start problem...>>
> --------------
>
> Those plugs under the bowl may or may not be leaking. The foam piece that
> some kits have to prevent the plugs from leaking does not work. It just
> absorbs the fuel if anything which does not help the situation. If you
> suspect leaking plugs (under the bowl), the best way to fix it is to drill
> out the original plugs, tap the holes and installed allen screws with good
> sealer.... or install press-in plugs with epoxy. Since this is a bit of a
> pain for the average backyard mechanic (and dangerous too because if you
> slip with the drill your could destroy the carb), another method that seems
> to work well is simply covering the entire existing bowl plug area with good
> quality epoxy. Make sure to clean and rough-up the area thoroughly before
> applying epoxy. Let the epoxy set for at least a whole day before
> reassembling the carb etc. I have epoxied carbs this way and found the
> epoxy to still be holding strong years later with zero leakage from the
> plugs. In general, you may just want to rebuild your carb and give it a
> full "blueprinting". This way you will know your carb is good.


I think I am going to replace the HEI module soon. Even if it's not
the problem (if there even is a problem) it sounds like it is a good
idea to replace it. Can a bad module also cause a miss? I've noticed
what may be a very slight miss, mostly in the 2-3K RPM range. Did not
really improve with the tune-up parts. I've also thought about
replacing the coil, too.

BTW, the engine and related is one of the GOOD points of this car.
Lately, I've had the rearend rebuilt and have replaced many of the
rear suspension and drivetrain components, etc. Rear wheel bearings
are next (I know - expensive) as well as a bunch of front-end stuff
like control arm bushings and possibly ball joints and tie rod ends.
I think the car sat for a long time under a carport before I bought it
and many of the bearings, seals and bushings on the chassis just
didn't take it well. It's only got 73K miles on it. Thanks for all
the advice.

On 1 Sep 2004 21:18:30 -0700, (daveo76) wrote:

>My relatively stock, L48 '76 is getting more difficult to cold start.
>I'm probably up to 10 seconds of total cranking time for most
>overnight cold starts. It starts fine after sitting all day at work
>and it also starts great hot. The choke appears to be working fine.
>I've recently replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, --
>all the normal tune-up parts. While replacing the fuel filter I
>cranked it for a sec. to clear the line and check flow. Fuel was
>pumped out immediately, but do I need to check fuel pressure to rule
>out the pump? Can you rent fuel pressure gages from an auto parts
>store? Any thing else I should check?
Now that you've got all thopse detailed explanations out of the way...
my 79 had the same problem... I replace the battery cables and frame
cables/groundung strap. I think the total cost was my timer and about
$20.00 to NAPA. Haven't had a starting problem since. I got the tip
on here several years ago.... and when I spliced into the removed
cables.. they were terribly corroded inside. They looked fine from
the outside..... Just a little wisedom..

On 1 Sep 2004 21:18:30 -0700, (daveo76) wrote:

>My relatively stock, L48 '76 is getting more difficult to cold start.
>I'm probably up to 10 seconds of total cranking time for most
>overnight cold starts. It starts fine after sitting all day at work
>and it also starts great hot. The choke appears to be working fine.
>I've recently replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, --
>all the normal tune-up parts. While replacing the fuel filter I
>cranked it for a sec. to clear the line and check flow. Fuel was
>pumped out immediately, but do I need to check fuel pressure to rule
>out the pump? Can you rent fuel pressure gages from an auto parts
>store? Any thing else I should check?
Now that you've got all thopse detailed explanations out of the way...
my 79 had the same problem... I replace the battery cables and frame
cables/groundung strap. I think the total cost was my timer and about
$20.00 to NAPA. Haven't had a starting problem since. I got the tip
on here several years ago.... and when I spliced into the removed
cables.. they were terribly corroded inside. They looked fine from
the outside..... Just a little wisedom..