Replacing swing axle rubber boots

Hello out there,

has anyone done, tried or has information about the replacement of the
rubber boots on a 1200 swing axle transmission?
I possible I want to you the original (non splitted) boots.
The manual says you have to revert the boot a then pull it over the
semisphere bit on the axle shaft.

Any suggestions?

Beetlenut wrote:
> Hello out there,
>
> has anyone done, tried or has information about the replacement of the
> rubber boots on a 1200 swing axle transmission?
> I possible I want to you the original (non splitted) boots.
> The manual says you have to revert the boot a then pull it over the
> semisphere bit on the axle shaft.
>
> Any suggestions?

You can only use the original boots if you
are willing to disassemble the axle. It is a lot of work.

See:
http://www.ckoon.org/vw/tranny/tranny.html
The first 3 or 4 pages deal with disassembly
of the Swing axle.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

> The manual says you have to revert the boot a then pull it over the
> semisphere bit on the axle shaft.
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I suggest you find a better manual :-)

The boot installs from the OPPOSITE end of the axle housing. To
remove the axle housing tube from the bearing carrier simply drive out
the taper-pin and press the two apart. You will also have to remove
the brake line bracket, which is welded to the axle housing tube.
After replacing the boot and reassembling the axle housing, you weld
on a new bracket.

That is how the job is done at the good shops, which nowadays you can
count on one hand and have a couple of fingers left over.

As Jim said, it's a lot of work. Which is why VW offered a split boot
as a field-repair part.

Split boots have a bad reputation for leaking, among do-it-
yourselfers. This is because 99% of them are improperly installed, in
that they position the seam on the TOP. Then compound that error by
over-tightening the nuts. The instructions say to place the seam on
the NEUTRAL axis, which means HORIZONTALLY. And the nuts should NOT
compress the material of the boot. Their task is to merely draw the
edges together; sealing is accomplished by a rib & groove arrangement
cast into the boot.

-Bob Hoover

Veeduber wrote:
>>The manual says you have to revert the boot a then pull it over the
>>semisphere bit on the axle shaft.
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> I suggest you find a better manual :-)
>
> The boot installs from the OPPOSITE end of the axle housing. To
> remove the axle housing tube from the bearing carrier simply drive out
> the taper-pin and press the two apart. You will also have to remove
> the brake line bracket, which is welded to the axle housing tube.
> After replacing the boot and reassembling the axle housing, you weld
> on a new bracket.
>
> That is how the job is done at the good shops, which nowadays you can
> count on one hand and have a couple of fingers left over.
>
> As Jim said, it's a lot of work. Which is why VW offered a split boot
> as a field-repair part.
>
> Split boots have a bad reputation for leaking, among do-it-
> yourselfers. This is because 99% of them are improperly installed, in
> that they position the seam on the TOP. Then compound that error by
> over-tightening the nuts. The instructions say to place the seam on
> the NEUTRAL axis, which means HORIZONTALLY. And the nuts should NOT
> compress the material of the boot. Their task is to merely draw the
> edges together; sealing is accomplished by a rib & groove arrangement
> cast into the boot.
>
> -Bob Hoover
>
>


And avoid the cheap stuff, it dryrots within one year regardless of
climate. It is somewhat hard to find the good quality parts, so much so
that I won't even try to tell you where to get them.

Jan

>
> And avoid the cheap stuff, it dryrots within one year regardless of
> climate. It is somewhat hard to find the good quality parts, so much so
> that I won't even try to tell you where to get them.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That sounds like natural rubber, which decomposes (ie, hardens) when
exposed to oxygen and ozone -- and dissolves when exposed to oil or
tranny lube :-)

Volkswagen used 'Buna' for its axle boots. Buna is synthetic rubber
(Neoprene here in the States).

Split boots are often made of polyurethane, molded with a series of
accordion pleats to provide the required flexibility.

-Bob Hoover

On Nov 6, 2:23 am, Veeduber > wrote:
> > And avoid the cheap stuff, it dryrots within one year regardless of
> > climate. It is somewhat hard to find the good quality parts, so much so
> > that I won't even try to tell you where to get them.
>
> >--------------------------------------------------------------------------*---------------
>
> That sounds like natural rubber, which decomposes (ie, hardens) when
> exposed to oxygen and ozone -- and dissolves when exposed to oil or
> tranny lube :-)
>
> Volkswagen used 'Buna' for its axle boots. Buna is synthetic rubber
> (Neoprene here in the States).
>
> Split boots are often made of polyurethane, molded with a series of
> accordion pleats to provide the required flexibility.
>
> -Bob Hoover

Hey Bob
On the 59 beetle I'm restoring I had the axle tubes powder coated good
thing the brake line holder bolts on. not sure what could be done for
the welded on type in this case.

I haven't located a set of solid boots, Who sells the best quality?

Mario
Vintage Werks resto.

>
> I haven't located a set of solid boots, Who sells the best quality?
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Just fill the cracks with bondo.

-Bob Hoover

Veeduber wrote:
>> I haven't located a set of solid boots, Who sells the best quality?
>>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Just fill the cracks with bondo.
>
> -Bob Hoover
>

ROFLMAO !!! HaHaHaHa

Veeduber wrote:
>> I haven't located a set of solid boots, Who sells the best quality?
>>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Just fill the cracks with bondo.
>
> -Bob Hoover
>
HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa !!!!!!!!

nice one

On Nov 6, 5:18 am, " > wrote:
> On Nov 6, 2:23 am, Veeduber > wrote:
>
>
>
> > > And avoid the cheap stuff, it dryrots within one year regardless of
> > > climate. It is somewhat hard to find the good quality parts, so much so
> > > that I won't even try to tell you where to get them.
>
> > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------- *---------------
>
> > That sounds like natural rubber, which decomposes (ie, hardens) when
> > exposed to oxygen and ozone -- and dissolves when exposed to oil or
> > tranny lube :-)
>
> > Volkswagen used 'Buna' for its axle boots. Buna is synthetic rubber
> > (Neoprene here in the States).
>
> > Split boots are often made of polyurethane, molded with a series of
> > accordion pleats to provide the required flexibility.
>
> > -Bob Hoover
>
> Hey Bob
> On the 59 beetle I'm restoring I had the axle tubes powder coated good
> thing the brake line holder bolts on. not sure what could be done for
> the welded on type in this case.
>
> I haven't located a set of solid boots, Who sells the best quality?
>
> Mario
> Vintage Werks resto.

Mario, you worthless waste of breath, I laugh everytime somebody shuts
you down. I hope you wake up tomorrow and have a real ****ty day, you
sorry ass****. Punch Sherri in the face and tell her I said hi.