New Clutch For Super Charged/boat pulling 4-Runner Recommendation

In article >,
says...
> On Sun, 02 Apr 2006 19:44:16 -0400, Mike Romain >
> wrote:
>
> >Then he needs practice on the clutch and something strong like a
> >centerforce clutch.....
> >
> >One trick for hills is to use the emergency brake to hold the vehicle
> >instead of riding the clutch. That works really well because it frees
> >up the leg. No matter the clutch, riding it kills it. Low reverse is
> >barely crawling at an idle on most vehicles....
>
>
> Not sure what vehicles you are talking about except maybe a old truck
> with a granny reverse which a 4 runner does not have else he would not
> be having clutch issues.
> -----------------
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
>


Thanks for the comments. The original clutch has 100k on it, I want to
replace it, and seeking experiences/suggestions with something other
than a stock OEM replacement which is all I'm really asking here. The
flywheel will be replaced as well instead of having it machined. The
centerforce clutch is an option I've researched a bit, but have heard
exedy is better.

I'll take a look at the deeper axle gears too, but with 4WD low its
definitely crawling - and I do use the emergency brake to hold it when
needed. I live in Colorado, and even going over the 10,000 ft mountain
passes, there is generally no problems at all with power and gearing.
Its quite impressive actually.

In article >,
says...
> On Sun, 02 Apr 2006 19:44:16 -0400, Mike Romain >
> wrote:
>
> >Then he needs practice on the clutch and something strong like a
> >centerforce clutch.....
> >
> >One trick for hills is to use the emergency brake to hold the vehicle
> >instead of riding the clutch. That works really well because it frees
> >up the leg. No matter the clutch, riding it kills it. Low reverse is
> >barely crawling at an idle on most vehicles....
>
>
> Not sure what vehicles you are talking about except maybe a old truck

> with a granny reverse which a 4 runner does not have else he would not
> be having clutch issues.
> -----------------
> The SnoMan
> www.thesnoman.com
>


Thanks for the comments. The original clutch has 100k on it, I want to
replace it, and seeking experiences/suggestions with something other
than a stock OEM replacement which is all I'm really asking here. The
flywheel will be replaced as well instead of having it machined. The
centerforce clutch is an option I've researched a bit, but have heard
exedy is better. And really wondering about the Safari Tuff clutch made
by Exedy, for applications such as mine.

I'll take a look at the deeper axle gears too, but with 4WD low its
definitely crawling - and I do use the emergency brake to hold it when
needed. I live in Colorado, and even going over the 10,000 ft mountain
passes, there is generally no problems at all with power and gearing.
Its quite impressive actually.

On Mon, 03 Apr 2006 10:48:54 -0400, Mike Romain >
wrote:


>
>He stated he had a 4 high and a 4 low range. I have 3.31 gears with 33"
>tires and a Dana 300 t-case and my low reverse is a 'very' slow walking
>speed. Same for low 1st. My Cherokee is the same in low reverse.
>


Make no mistake, 3.31 is WAY too tall for 33's and anyone that thinks
otherwise is kinding themselves. Relistically with today OD trannies
you need a 4.10 with that combo unless you have a big block or a
diesel. The only way you can get a clutch to survive is to gear it
deep enough for the load that the clutch sees little slipage of torque
loads across it. Unlike a Torque Converter in a automatic which
multiplies torque when "slipping" a clutch does not and all the lost
energy goes to heat in the clutch. If you take 3.31 gear with a 33's
and you use low rang in reverse you have a maxium effective gear ratio
of about 29 to one. When you factor in tire size, 100 ft lb or engine
torque your wheel torque is only about 2000 ftlbs of tractive effort
(assuming no drive line lossses which there are). When you compare
this to a old P/U with a 6, 4.11 gears and a 4sp with a granny gear of
about 7 to 1 in reverse, you get the same effective ratio before you
even use low range. In low range on that truck, 100 ft lbs of engine
torque would yeild 5000 lbs of tractive effort. Below is a simple
chart on the effect of tire size on pulling power. Low rang should
never be consider a substitute for improper gearing for tires size and
load. They were never designed for that.

http://forum.snoman.com/viewtopic.php?t=53
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

rr wrote:
> In article >,
> says...
> > On Sun, 02 Apr 2006 19:44:16 -0400, Mike Romain >
> > wrote:
> >
> > >Then he needs practice on the clutch and something strong like a
> > >centerforce clutch.....
> > >
> > >One trick for hills is to use the emergency brake to hold the vehicle
> > >instead of riding the clutch. That works really well because it frees
> > >up the leg. No matter the clutch, riding it kills it. Low reverse is
> > >barely crawling at an idle on most vehicles....
> >
> >
> > Not sure what vehicles you are talking about except maybe a old truck
>
> > with a granny reverse which a 4 runner does not have else he would not
> > be having clutch issues.
> > -----------------
> > The SnoMan
> > www.thesnoman.com
> >
>
>
> Thanks for the comments. The original clutch has 100k on it, I want to
> replace it, and seeking experiences/suggestions with something other
> than a stock OEM replacement which is all I'm really asking here. The
> flywheel will be replaced as well instead of having it machined. The
> centerforce clutch is an option I've researched a bit, but have heard
> exedy is better. And really wondering about the Safari Tuff clutch made
> by Exedy, for applications such as mine.
>
> I'll take a look at the deeper axle gears too, but with 4WD low its
> definitely crawling - and I do use the emergency brake to hold it when
> needed. I live in Colorado, and even going over the 10,000 ft mountain
> passes, there is generally no problems at all with power and gearing.
> Its quite impressive actually.

Yes, 4WD low should give you a low enough gear to pull or push that
load easily up a steep grade without stressing the clutch too much. I
would not bother with lowering the overall gearing any more because you
will be stuck with it at highway speeds.

100k on a clutch is about right in my experience, so I don't know if a
heavy duty clutch will get you much more than added pedal pressure to
deal with. If it was my car I would stick with the OEM clutch.

On Tue, 04 Apr 2006 10:40:18 -0400, Mike Romain >
wrote:


>I guess my gears work well for my use....
>
>Lower gears would be nice I guess, but I can think of lots better ways
>to blow a grand or more....


You should check out link below and look at the effect of axle ratio
on traction not to mention driveline wrap up and motor mount strain.
If you think you do well now off road, you will be amazed at how much
better it would do in sand and such with 4.10 or 4.56's.


http://forum.snoman.com/viewtopic.php?t=63
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

hey that cool

On 4 Apr 2006 05:31:15 -0700, "John S." > wrote:

>Yes, 4WD low should give you a low enough gear to pull or push that
>load easily up a steep grade without stressing the clutch too much. I
>would not bother with lowering the overall gearing any more because you
>will be stuck with it at highway speeds.
>
>100k on a clutch is about right in my experience, so I don't know if a
>heavy duty clutch will get you much more than added pedal pressure to
>deal with. If it was my car I would stick with the OEM clutch.


4lo should be used sparely for this usage. Also I have gotten over
200K out of clutches if they are treated right so I do not agree that
100K is normal. I once pulled a engine out of a old 4x4 truck many
years ago that had had a very hard life. It had a 4 speed with a true
granny gear and the clutch showed little wear even after 185k of very
hard usage. It would have went another 100K plus easy. Overall drive
ratio for the load being "clutched" and the way it is operated has a
far stronger bearing on clutch life than the odometer does.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com