1998 Tahoe 6.5TD Heater Hose Quick-Connect Leak

Charles Bendig wrote: "Now it's my turn to replace the quick-connect that
has corroded on my vehicle. I know it has been a while since some of you
tackled this not-so-enjoyable issue on your vehicles... But should the
heater hose come out of the quick-connect piece before trying to screw out
the connector that is threaded into the block? Or did you leave it connected
until it screwed out? The quick-connect on my vehicle is rusting/corroding
in two places: where it is threaded into the block and also where the hose
goes into the quick-connect piece. Should I use a torch to try and loosen
the threads? Will WD40 or liquid wrench help to loosen it up?
Any other steps or suggestions on this repair would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you in advance!"

I recently changed my connection on a 2000 Chevy C2500 with the 5.7 litter.
I had trouble while on the road no where near my home. I made it to a NAPA
store and bought the necessary replacement fitting. I also purchased the
tools to remove the hose but as my luck has it the fitting broke off in the
engine block. I then purchased an easy out to fit and it still would not
come out. I finally decided to use a long extension and try to wedge it in
the fitting. This worked and I was able to unscrew it from the block. Had
I been at home and had the time to let it soak in Kroil or JB Blast I would
have but broke down 300 miles from home you try what you can.

Sarge

Sarge wrote:
> Charles Bendig wrote:
Wrong Attribute of quoted text.

> I recently changed my connection on a 2000 Chevy C2500 with the 5.7 litter.
> I had trouble while on the road no where near my home. I made it to a NAPA
> store and bought the necessary replacement fitting. I also purchased the
> tools to remove the hose but as my luck has it the fitting broke off in the
> engine block. I then purchased an easy out to fit and it still would not
> come out. I finally decided to use a long extension and try to wedge it in
> the fitting. This worked and I was able to unscrew it from the block. Had
> I been at home and had the time to let it soak in Kroil or JB Blast I would
> have but broke down 300 miles from home you try what you can.
>
> Sarge

When you drive a square peg in a round hole, something has to give. I
advise not doing so as it's normially the threads on the intake, or
worse the intake that gives. The tool to use is a internal pipe
ez-out/remover. It's circular and has teath to grab in to the fitting
with out destorting it enough to crack the manifold.

Another thing that can be done is to chiesel the fitting out of the
threds carefully. Use long reach neadle nose pliers, a shop vac, what
have you to remove the debris. I almost thing these fittings should be
replaced at 100,000 mile mark. Especially on Astrovans. I see more broke
on those then I do S--10's and fullm size trucks.
Charles

Forgot to mention that when I removed the broken fitting, I replaced it
with a pipe nipple and hose-barb adapter. I cut the quick-connect part
out of the hose, hose over the adapter, two hose clamps, and I'm a
happy guy. The flex-loom around the original hose helps hold it up so
it doesn't crimp at the adapter, as do the two hose clips located
lower, one on the engine and one on the body, I think.

JLarsson

JLarsson wrote:
> Forgot to mention that when I removed the broken fitting, I replaced it
> with a pipe nipple and hose-barb adapter. I cut the quick-connect part
> out of the hose, hose over the adapter, two hose clamps, and I'm a
> happy guy. The flex-loom around the original hose helps hold it up so
> it doesn't crimp at the adapter, as do the two hose clips located
> lower, one on the engine and one on the body, I think.
>
> JLarsson
>

Use a BBC water pump to water neck hose in applications with a 45 to 90
degree bend. Other then that the barb fitting is the same as the front
carberated SBC fitting on any 68 to 88 engine. The threads are 1/2 NPT.
Charles

Charles Bendig fired up his mental motor, engaged the gears, let out
the clutch, and wrote:
>
> Use a BBC water pump to water neck hose in applications with a 45 to 90
> degree bend. Other then that the barb fitting is the same as the front
> carberated SBC fitting on any 68 to 88 engine. The threads are 1/2 NPT.
> Charles

Thanks for that info, Charles. The original hose has a couple bends
molded into it also, but if and when I have to replace that hose, I'll
remember that (hopefully <g>).

JLarsson