tips !

Any body got any useful tips ? Use this thread.

one I used today.

I had to renew a flexi brake hose. The nut that holds the rigid hose to
the flexi hose connector was not going to budge.
Used an 11mm spanner, it rounded the nut.
Filed some flats on and used a 10mm spanner, it rounded again.
Vice grips wouldn't hold.
penetrating oil was on for a couple of days before.


Cant use heat on a brake line ! (brake fluid - very flammable)

what I did was - got my 11mm spanner and tack welded it to the nut.
Carefully not to heat it up too much.

Took three goes but it came loose in the end.

Be careful also not to weld it on good and proper as you have to get
your spanner off when its loose !





On a similar note, once I had to remove a door from my split bus. The
hinge bolts have no heads - you use a cross top screw driver.

It appeared someone else had tried before me ! chewed up the top, no
grip for the screw driver.

take a nut of about the same size as the head. Weld through the center
of the nut onto the bolt you are trying to remove. This also works if
you shear the head off a bolt.


As for most tips like this -- take your time and get comfey ! lots of
patients helps :-)


Rich

tricky wrote:

> On a similar note, once I had to remove a door from my split bus. The
> hinge bolts have no heads - you use a cross top screw driver.
>
> It appeared someone else had tried before me ! chewed up the top, no
> grip for the screw driver.
>
> take a nut of about the same size as the head. Weld through the center
> of the nut onto the bolt you are trying to remove. This also works if
> you shear the head off a bolt.
>

An impact driver is the ticket for bolts like these. If you don't have
one, you can also just take a "disposable" screwdriver and after
applying some penetrating oil hammer the crap out of it, this will break
loose the threads. But the real impact driver works better because it
will also try to rotate the screw while you're doing this. They're not
expensive, only about $15 or so. Just went through this on the latch
strikers for my '55 Stude coupe project.

nate


--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Hi Nate

Tried an impact driver 1st.
On the bottom hinge, you cant get enough swing with your lump hammer -
the wheel arch / step are in the way !

Rich


Nate Nagel wrote:
> tricky wrote:
>
>> On a similar note, once I had to remove a door from my split bus. The
>> hinge bolts have no heads - you use a cross top screw driver.
>>
>> It appeared someone else had tried before me ! chewed up the top, no
>> grip for the screw driver.
>>
>> take a nut of about the same size as the head. Weld through the center
>> of the nut onto the bolt you are trying to remove. This also works if
>> you shear the head off a bolt.
>>
>
> An impact driver is the ticket for bolts like these. If you don't have
> one, you can also just take a "disposable" screwdriver and after
> applying some penetrating oil hammer the crap out of it, this will break
> loose the threads. But the real impact driver works better because it
> will also try to rotate the screw while you're doing this. They're not
> expensive, only about $15 or so. Just went through this on the latch
> strikers for my '55 Stude coupe project.
>
> nate
>
>

In article >,
tricky > wrote:

> On a similar note, once I had to remove a door from my split bus. The
> hinge bolts have no heads -- you use a cross top screw driver.
>
> It appeared someone else had tried before me! Chewed up the top, no
> grip for the screw driver.

You use an impact screwdriver (no, it doesn't go into your air gun)...

Each time you hit the tool at the back, it simultaneously advances and
rotates to loosen your screw. It's an old idea and such tools have been
around for a long time.

<http://www.brandsonsale.com/impact-screwdriver.html>

....and it is called PHILLIPS, not "cross top"! ;-) In addition, the
"square bit" ones are actually called ROBERTSON. Star ones are TORX.

--
___
|___| '61 - VW
(o\_|_/o) Bug! ALEA -- 35.9 BHP and not a bit more!
_U___U_

Hi

I used the term Cros top to avoid confusion in different countrys. some
people call them posidrive too. I think there is a slight difference in
the design of the "cross".

I already tried the impact driver as per last post ;-)


I do like the impact driver, mine has changed shape cuz I hit it so hard
! but it just didnt work in this situation. The welded nut worked a treat !

Rich


Red Bug wrote:

> In article >,
> tricky > wrote:
>
>
>>On a similar note, once I had to remove a door from my split bus. The
>>hinge bolts have no heads -- you use a cross top screw driver.
>>
>>It appeared someone else had tried before me! Chewed up the top, no
>>grip for the screw driver.
>
>
> You use an impact screwdriver (no, it doesn't go into your air gun)...
>
> Each time you hit the tool at the back, it simultaneously advances and
> rotates to loosen your screw. It's an old idea and such tools have been
> around for a long time.
>
> <http://www.brandsonsale.com/impact-screwdriver.html>
>
> ...and it is called PHILLIPS, not "cross top"! ;-) In addition, the
> "square bit" ones are actually called ROBERTSON. Star ones are TORX.
>

In article >,
tricky > wrote:

> some
> people call them posidrive too. I think there is a slight difference in
> the design of the "cross".

POSIDRIVE is a hack... only in the US! Different enough from Phillips
that when you get something with those screws, the standard Phillips
screwdriver doesn't quite fit well and the screw is buggered... Of
course, you can't buy a Posidrive screwdriver except in the US!

--
___
|___| '61 - VW
(o\_|_/o) Bug! ALEA -- 35.9 BHP and not a bit more!
_U___U_

"Red Bug" > wrote in message news:blocked- > POSIDRIVE is
a hack... only in the US! Different enough from Phillips
> that when you get something with those screws, the standard Phillips
> screwdriver doesn't quite fit well and the screw is buggered... Of
> course, you can't buy a Posidrive screwdriver except in the US!
>
> --


Posidriv system screws and bits are excellent...however you must use the
proper tool for the fastener no matter whether you are talking about screws,
bolts, nuts, women, etc... Posidriv was developed by the Phillips screw
company, which is the same company that developed the cross-head screw. The
also have a squaredrive system, which is not a "Robertson" drive..Robertson
is a commonly accepted term for sqaredrive screw systems, but is actually
just the name of the company that developed them, just as Phillips designed
the "phillips" screw system..just as all copy machines are not Xerox, all
cross heads are not "Phillips", all sqaredrives are not "Robertson", and all
blue concrete screws are not "tapcons"....

In article <KhwTd.2455$Sn6.1876@lakeread03>,
"Joey Tribiani" > wrote:

> Posidriv system screws and bits are excellent... However you must use the
> proper tool for the fastener no matter whether you are talking about screws,
> bolts, nuts, women, etc...

Except the tools are NOT available outside of the US! Often, furniture
from IKEA, etc. comes with these bloody POSIDRIVE screws but those of us
NOT IN THE US have to do our best to assemble with stnd. Phillips
screwdrivers... There's NO OPTION if you can't buy the right tool!

> Robertson
> is a commonly accepted term for sqaredrive screw systems, but is actually
> just the name of the company that developed them...

And it is a very good system... better than Phillips for torque... And
the screw sticks on the end of the driver nicely! That's the best part!
I wish they were used more widely. At least a "square bit" screwdriver
is going to fit the square-holed screws that you're ever going to come
across. With "cross-head" screws, you have a chance it'll be the
original Phillips type but another chance it will be Posi-drive, and
with no correct tool to use with these types, you struggle along and
usually end up with messed up screw tops. It's like BETA and VHS all
over again, except that that with the tapes, at least one of them won
out.

Harrumph!

--
___
|___| '61 - VW
(o\_|_/o) Bug! ALEA -- 35.9 BHP and not a bit more!
_U___U_

I've heard people refer to the posidrive screws as a "blunt point phillips" which isn't entirely accurate of course.
You can sometimes grind down the point on an old phillips screwdriver and get a somewhat better fit. (I bought the
correct drivers years ago) There's more to it than just the shorter tip though. I've never figured out what the benefit
of the posidrive style fastener was but there must have been something. Is it a type of assembly line fastener?

--
>>>Mike
'64 sunroof Beetle
'55 semaphore Beetle

"Mike64Bug" > wrote in message
ink.net...
> I've heard people refer to the posidrive screws as a "blunt point
phillips" which isn't entirely accurate of course.
> You can sometimes grind down the point on an old phillips screwdriver and
get a somewhat better fit. (I bought the
> correct drivers years ago) There's more to it than just the shorter tip
though. I've never figured out what the benefit
> of the posidrive style fastener was but there must have been something.
Is it a type of assembly line fastener?
>

the posidriv style is better than a standard crosshead screw in a higher
torque situation...they were designed to withstand more torque without
damage or rounding...