89 Mustang - the plan

Every now and then, I post here looking for input on certain mods, and
one poster has replied, calling out the need for a plan, and
specifically regretting the wasted money that was spent on the car
without a larger plan. I've decided to post mine here, for a couple
reasons - to force myself to create and commit to it, to gather
feedback, and to have it online to answer questions.

Car: 1989 Mustang LX convertible (5.0), 5 speed

Goals: Agressive street - car; 'Resto-mod' appearance, keeping
original except for 'tasteful' dress-up (ie white-face gauges, limited
interior Billet); good audio (preferring sound quality over
competition level volume); enhance braking and handling for 'balanced'
performance; enhance engine performance while staying naturally
aspirated; limited, if ever, track use or street - racing

Current state:
BBK in-fender cold-air kit, 73mm mass-air meter with correct air-tube
for 24# injectors, 70mm throttle body and EGR spacer, (former owner
claims they installed 24# injectors, I have never verified), MSD
billet distributor, Accel coil, 200Amp alternator (that still only
puts out 8V @ idle... grrrr); Ford Motorsport Blue 'Hi-Miler' type
hoses; BBK equal-length shorty headers; 2 1/2" exhaust into hi-flow
cats and single chamber Flowmaster; Maximum Motorsports 4 pt strut
tower brace; MM lower 4 pt K-member brace; Steeda Tri-Ax; Stock
transmission into a 7.5" (!!) rear, rebuilt Jan 06; Kenwood KDC-X592U
head unit with Sirius connect and iPod connection; Infinity Kappa
Reference series component spkrs in door and dash, Kicker 10" sub in
trunk, Lanzar 6 ch 300W amp;

Plan (in rough order):

Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
needed

Suspension - Eibach Pro-System-Plus (springs, struts, shocks,
swaybars) and Maximum Motorsports Caster - Camber plate, MM full-
length welded - in subframe connectors

Driveline stage 1 - billet aluminum flywheel, performance clutch (King
Cobra, maybe?), aluminum driveshaft (replace rear main seal and oil
pan gasket while I'm at it)

Braking - Not yet sure how far to go, minimum SN95 caliper and master
cylinder w/larger pads and disc; stainless steel caliper pin bushing;
braided steel brake lines all around. Might go 4 wheel disc, but not
sure of $$ and complexity.

More suspension (later, will evaluate) - Rear control arms, upper
and / or lower for grip / hook-up

Driveline stage 2 - 8.8" rear with upgraded diff (Auburn, Eaton,
etc.), maybe c-clip eliminator or 31spline axles, aluminum diff cover
(for looks as much as anything else)

Engine - (long term, 1 - 2 years out) Head / Cam Intake combo; then
later bottom end rebuild
OR
Short-block swap

Along the way (no timeline, as time / money allow, sometimes between
bigger pieces): Maximum Motorsports power steering pump / lines
upgrades; wheels / tires; assorted interior dress-up / restoration;
radiator; water-pump; MSD ignition box; paint ($$$ :-)); fuel
regulator (per my last post), maybe with billet fuel rail; fuel pump;

Thoughts / opinions?

Jim C wrote:
> Every now and then, I post here looking for input on certain mods, and
> one poster has replied, calling out the need for a plan, and
> specifically regretting the wasted money that was spent on the car
> without a larger plan. I've decided to post mine here, for a couple
> reasons - to force myself to create and commit to it, to gather
> feedback, and to have it online to answer questions.
>
> Car: 1989 Mustang LX convertible (5.0), 5 speed

How many miles on the car/engine?

> Goals: Agressive street - car; 'Resto-mod' appearance, keeping
> original except for 'tasteful' dress-up (ie white-face gauges, limited
> interior Billet); good audio (preferring sound quality over
> competition level volume); enhance braking and handling for 'balanced'
> performance; enhance engine performance while staying naturally
> aspirated; limited, if ever, track use or street - racing
>
> Current state:
> BBK in-fender cold-air kit, 73mm mass-air meter with correct air-tube
> for 24# injectors, 70mm throttle body and EGR spacer, (former owner
> claims they installed 24# injectors, I have never verified), MSD
> billet distributor, Accel coil, 200Amp alternator (that still only
> puts out 8V @ idle... grrrr); Ford Motorsport Blue 'Hi-Miler' type
> hoses; BBK equal-length shorty headers; 2 1/2" exhaust into hi-flow
> cats and single chamber Flowmaster; Maximum Motorsports 4 pt strut
> tower brace; MM lower 4 pt K-member brace; Steeda Tri-Ax; Stock
> transmission into a 7.5" (!!) rear, rebuilt Jan 06; Kenwood KDC-X592U
> head unit with Sirius connect and iPod connection; Infinity Kappa
> Reference series component spkrs in door and dash, Kicker 10" sub in
> trunk, Lanzar 6 ch 300W amp;

It looks like you have some good engine mods that can be used later.
Especially if you keep near the same displacement. If you go up to 331
or 347 cid then you might need to replace a few parts. One thing to add
is subframe connectors. Now this is one mod I would recommend right
now. They are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in
handling and power to the rear wheels. The car will feel tighter than
when it was new. Finally, what's up with that 7.5" rear end? Was this
a four banger converted to a V-8?

> Plan (in rough order):
>
> Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
> needed
>
> Suspension - Eibach Pro-System-Plus (springs, struts, shocks,
> swaybars) and Maximum Motorsports Caster - Camber plate, MM full-
> length welded - in subframe connectors

I'm a big fan of Maximum Motorsports and if it were my plan I would use
all their stuff and little of anything else. Not that what you has
proposed is bad but when you mix and match components that are supposed
to work together you might get surprised with conflicts during
installation. Now this is one mod I would recommend right now. They
are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in handling and
power to the rear wheels. The car will feel tighter than when it was
new. Also, the brand of subframes you use is important, especially if
you go with some MM suspension parts.

> Driveline stage 1 - billet aluminum flywheel, performance clutch (King
> Cobra, maybe?), aluminum driveshaft (replace rear main seal and oil
> pan gasket while I'm at it)

I would do the rear end at this point too or before the above items.
IMO, it is the weak point is your drive train and the weak points are
what you should fix first or you will be fixing them unexpectedly when
they fail. I learned this the hard way too by trying to put 460 ft-lbs
of rwtq through a stock T-5. I hard a Viper spec T-56 in the car before
I knew what hit me.

> Braking - Not yet sure how far to go, minimum SN95 caliper and master
> cylinder w/larger pads and disc; stainless steel caliper pin bushing;
> braided steel brake lines all around. Might go 4 wheel disc, but not
> sure of $$ and complexity.

It sounds like you are going for a corner carver so I would recommend
getting decent brakes and make them four wheel discs. Forget going with
SN95 parts as they are a pain in the ass. I have them on my car so take
my word for it. There are lots of brands and kits to choose from in
this category. IMO, as long as you stay with a solid brand and use
their entire kit you will be fine. I also have learned that stopping a
fast car quickly is more important than getting it moving quickly.

> More suspension (later, will evaluate) - Rear control arms, upper
> and / or lower for grip / hook-up
>
> Driveline stage 2 - 8.8" rear with upgraded diff (Auburn, Eaton,
> etc.), maybe c-clip eliminator or 31spline axles, aluminum diff cover
> (for looks as much as anything else)

As I mentioned above, I would move this up to the top of your suspension
mods. For a N/A, near stock displacement 5.0L engine the 28 spline
axles are more than adequate, IMO. If you are buying axles as a
requirement of the rebuild then you might as well go with 31 spline
axles. Now here is where things can cost you if you don't have a plan.
Do you ever plan to go with five lug wheels? If you do then the
brakes and rear end you install need to be five lug too.

> Engine - (long term, 1 - 2 years out) Head / Cam Intake combo; then
> later bottom end rebuild

There are lots of good combos out there for the 5.0L. Just decide where
you want the power and torque in the rpm band and choose accordingly.

> Short-block swap

If you are going to do this then at least bump up the displacement to
333 ci. It is basically free horsepower and torque if you are buying a
short block since the prices are about the same for each.

> Along the way (no timeline, as time / money allow, sometimes between
> bigger pieces): Maximum Motorsports power steering pump / lines
> upgrades; wheels / tires; assorted interior dress-up / restoration;
> radiator; water-pump; MSD ignition box; paint ($$$ :-)); fuel
> regulator (per my last post), maybe with billet fuel rail; fuel pump;
>
> Thoughts / opinions?

My advice is research, research and research. When you think you know
all you need to know then research some more. Read the Mustang web site
forums regularly and see what people have to say that actually have
experience with speed parts. They have a wealth of information that you
can use to your benefit and, IMO, they collectively know a hell of a lot
more than most any local speed shop does about what parts actually
deliver the power manufacturers claim they deliver. Yhey also aren't
looking to make money from you so their information is more dependable.

On Jun 2, 3:25*pm, Michael Johnson > wrote:
> Jim C wrote:
> > Every now and then, I post here looking for input on certain mods, and
> > one poster has replied, calling out the need for a plan, and
> > specifically regretting the wasted money that was spent on the car
> > without a larger plan. *I've decided to post mine here, for a couple
> > reasons - to force myself to create and commit to it, to gather
> > feedback, and to have it online to answer questions.
>
> > Car: 1989 Mustang LX convertible (5.0), 5 speed
>
> How many miles on the car/engine?
>
>
>
>
>
> > Goals: Agressive street - car; 'Resto-mod' appearance, keeping
> > original except for 'tasteful' dress-up (ie white-face gauges, limited
> > interior Billet); good audio (preferring sound quality over
> > competition level volume); enhance braking and handling for 'balanced'
> > performance; enhance engine performance while staying naturally
> > aspirated; limited, if ever, track use or street - racing
>
> > Current state:
> > BBK in-fender cold-air kit, 73mm mass-air meter with correct air-tube
> > for 24# injectors, 70mm throttle body and EGR spacer, (former owner
> > claims they installed 24# injectors, I have never verified), MSD
> > billet distributor, Accel coil, 200Amp alternator (that still only
> > puts out 8V @ idle... *grrrr); Ford Motorsport Blue 'Hi-Miler' type
> > hoses; BBK equal-length shorty headers; 2 1/2" exhaust into hi-flow
> > cats and single chamber Flowmaster; Maximum Motorsports 4 pt strut
> > tower brace; MM lower 4 pt K-member brace; Steeda Tri-Ax; Stock
> > transmission into a 7.5" (!!) rear, rebuilt Jan 06; Kenwood KDC-X592U
> > head unit with Sirius connect and iPod connection; Infinity Kappa
> > Reference series component spkrs in door and dash, Kicker 10" sub in
> > trunk, Lanzar 6 ch 300W amp;
>
> It looks like you have some good engine mods that can be used later.
> Especially if you keep near the same displacement. *If you go up to 331
> or 347 cid then you might need to replace a few parts. *One thing to add
> is subframe connectors. *Now this is one mod I would recommend right
> now. *They are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in
> handling and power to the rear wheels. *The car will feel tighter than
> when it was new. *Finally, what's up with that 7.5" rear end? *Was this
> a four banger converted to a V-8?
>
> > Plan (in rough order):
>
> > Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
> > needed
>
> > Suspension - Eibach Pro-System-Plus (springs, struts, shocks,
> > swaybars) and Maximum Motorsports Caster - Camber plate, MM full-
> > length welded - in subframe connectors
>
> I'm a big fan of Maximum Motorsports and if it were my plan I would use
> all their stuff and little of anything else. *Not that what you has
> proposed is bad but when you mix and match components that are supposed
> to work together you might get surprised with conflicts during
> installation. *Now this is one mod I would recommend right now. *They
> are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in handling and
> power to the rear wheels. *The car will feel tighter than when it was
> new. *Also, the brand of subframes you use is important, especially if
> you go with some MM suspension parts.
>
> > Driveline stage 1 - billet aluminum flywheel, performance clutch (King
> > Cobra, maybe?), aluminum driveshaft (replace rear main seal and oil
> > pan gasket while I'm at it)
>
> I would do the rear end at this point too or before the above items.
> IMO, it is the weak point is your drive train and the weak points are
> what you should fix first or you will be fixing them unexpectedly when
> they fail. *I learned this the hard way too by trying to put 460 ft-lbs
> of rwtq through a stock T-5. *I hard a Viper spec T-56 in the car before
> I knew what hit me.
>
> > Braking - Not yet sure how far to go, minimum SN95 caliper and master
> > cylinder w/larger pads and disc; stainless steel caliper pin bushing;
> > braided steel brake lines all around. *Might go 4 wheel disc, but not
> > sure of $$ and complexity.
>
> It sounds like you are going for a corner carver so I would recommend
> getting decent brakes and make them four wheel discs. *Forget going with
> SN95 parts as they are a pain in the ass. *I have them on my car so take
> my word for it. *There are lots of brands and kits to choose from in
> this category. *IMO, as long as you stay with a solid brand and use
> their entire kit you will be fine. *I also have learned that stopping a
> fast car quickly is more important than getting it moving quickly.
>
> > More suspension (later, will evaluate) - Rear control arms, upper
> > and / or lower for grip / hook-up
>
> > Driveline stage 2 - 8.8" rear with upgraded diff (Auburn, Eaton,
> > etc.), maybe c-clip eliminator or 31spline axles, aluminum diff cover
> > (for looks as much as anything else)
>
> As I mentioned above, I would move this up to the top of your suspension
> mods. *For a N/A, near stock displacement 5.0L engine the 28 spline
> axles are more than adequate, IMO. *If you are buying axles as a
> requirement of the rebuild then you might as well go with 31 spline
> axles. *Now here is where things can cost you if you don't have a plan.
> * Do you ever plan to go with five lug wheels? *If you do then the
> brakes and rear end you install need to be five lug too.
>
> > Engine - (long term, 1 - 2 years out) Head / Cam Intake combo; then
> > later bottom end rebuild
>
> There are lots of good combos out there for the 5.0L. *Just decide where
> you want the power and torque in the rpm band and choose accordingly.
>
> > Short-block swap
>
> If you are going to do this then at least bump up the displacement to
> 333 ci. *It is basically free horsepower and torque if you are buying a
> short block since the prices are about the same for each.
>
> > Along the way (no timeline, as time / money allow, sometimes between
> > bigger pieces): Maximum Motorsports power steering pump / lines
> > upgrades; wheels / tires; assorted interior dress-up / restoration;
> > radiator; water-pump; MSD ignition box; paint ($$$ :-)); fuel
> > regulator (per my last post), maybe with billet fuel rail; fuel pump;
>
> > Thoughts / opinions?
>
> My advice is research, research and research. *When you think you know
> all you need to know then research some more. *Read the Mustang web site
> forums regularly and see what people have to say that actually have
> experience with speed parts. *They have a wealth of information that you
> can use to your benefit and, IMO, they collectively know a hell of a lot
> more than most any local speed shop does about what parts actually
> deliver the power manufacturers claim they deliver. *Yhey also aren't
> looking to make money from you so their information is more dependable.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The car has about 110K on it, and the previous owner tells me the
bottom end was rebuilt before he got it. Of course, I can find no
evidence of this, but it's the strongest feeling of my three previous
5.0L's.

I really appreciate the feedback, I love leveraging the collected
experience of a lot who have gone before me, and your posts are always
real well thought out.

Y'know what - that 7.5 is a MAJOR point of confusion to me. It blew
once already, and for reasons of cost and expediency at the time, I
had them rebuild it the same (wish I had that choice back). My
mechanic tells me there was a 7.5 offered stock on the car at one
time, but I can find ZERO evidence of this. The VIN engine code
(eighth digit) is E, so I believe it is a stock 5.0. I wonder if a
previous owner along the way did their own swap to another car - maybe
a 4 cyl build-up.

I'm trying to manage this in $1K at a time increments, and I know the
suspension (with subs) will be FUN, and give me seat of the pants
enjoyment, but the rear might be the smarter next step. I still go
back and forth over whether to do fun (handling) or practical (rear)
next.

One additional problem I have with planning the rear work is that I'm
not sure which axles to do. I'm happy enough with the wheels / tires
I have, so I don't really need to go to five lug for THAT reason, but
I think I will have to go 5 lug for any brake upgrade, and that will
add to the job cost when I do the rear, cause I'll have to get front
spindles and wheels / tires all the way around. (bang head...)

Maybe I could redo the rear as is (4 lug, 27 spline), and plan on
replacing the axles with 5 lug 31 splines when I do the brakes. What
has to change in the rear to go from 27 -> 31? Or could I find 31
spline 4 lugs, and upgrade 4 lug -> 5 lug when I do the brakes?

Jim C > wrote in news:c85dbf96-8c01-467e-b0ca-
:

> Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
> needed

You are not going to get any kind of good audio with any kind of speakers
mounted in plastic with no reflex space behind them. Not to mention that
they are pointed at each other, not at you. Boxes in the cargo deck are a
must for starters.

On Jun 2, 11:50*pm, elaich > wrote:
> Jim C > wrote in news:c85dbf96-8c01-467e-b0ca-
> :
>
> > Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
> > needed
>
> You are not going to get any kind of good audio with any kind of speakers
> mounted in plastic with no reflex space behind them. Not to mention that
> they are pointed at each other, not at you. Boxes in the cargo deck are a
> must for starters.

Good point, but this is a convertible - there is no rear deck. I know
that with a convertible, audiophile sound is not gonna happen, between
wind noise and the great big void between the trunk and passenger
compartment where the top is most often folded down. What I want to
get is the best I can spending on the low side of reasonable money (I
enjoy good sound every time I drive, but in choosing where to spend my
money, preference goes to performance). My theory is to build a
'sound stage' where the rear seat (forward - facing, behind a trim
piece which is slotted, but covered with carpet), is the real lower /
mid-range crunch, the door speakers facing the front seat passengers
provide the mid-range drive, and the tweeters in the dash drive the
highs 'in your face'. Whadya think? Other ideas? The other
limitation is keeping the interior close to stock, in line with the
'resto-mod' idea.

On Jun 2, 2:25 pm, Michael Johnson > wrote:

> > Suspension - Eibach Pro-System-Plus (springs, struts, shocks,
> > swaybars) and Maximum Motorsports Caster - Camber plate, MM full-
> > length welded - in subframe connectors
>
> I'm a big fan of Maximum Motorsports and if it were my plan I would use
> all their stuff and little of anything else. Not that what you has
> proposed is bad but when you mix and match components that are supposed
> to work together you might get surprised with conflicts during
> installation.

Mike,

My old LX had Koni shocks/struts, Eibach progressive springs, Steeda
chrome moly subframes/strut tower/g-load brace and M/M camber/caster
plates and it was a wonderful combination. The only conflict I had
was the C/C plates & strut tower brace. I had to reshape the strut
tower brace a bit for clearance, but other than that it all worked
great together.

I agree on Maximum Motorsports. They make great products!

Patrick

Jim C wrote:
> On Jun 2, 3:25 pm, Michael Johnson > wrote:
>> Jim C wrote:
>>> Every now and then, I post here looking for input on certain mods, and
>>> one poster has replied, calling out the need for a plan, and
>>> specifically regretting the wasted money that was spent on the car
>>> without a larger plan. I've decided to post mine here, for a couple
>>> reasons - to force myself to create and commit to it, to gather
>>> feedback, and to have it online to answer questions.
>>> Car: 1989 Mustang LX convertible (5.0), 5 speed
>> How many miles on the car/engine?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Goals: Agressive street - car; 'Resto-mod' appearance, keeping
>>> original except for 'tasteful' dress-up (ie white-face gauges, limited
>>> interior Billet); good audio (preferring sound quality over
>>> competition level volume); enhance braking and handling for 'balanced'
>>> performance; enhance engine performance while staying naturally
>>> aspirated; limited, if ever, track use or street - racing
>>> Current state:
>>> BBK in-fender cold-air kit, 73mm mass-air meter with correct air-tube
>>> for 24# injectors, 70mm throttle body and EGR spacer, (former owner
>>> claims they installed 24# injectors, I have never verified), MSD
>>> billet distributor, Accel coil, 200Amp alternator (that still only
>>> puts out 8V @ idle... grrrr); Ford Motorsport Blue 'Hi-Miler' type
>>> hoses; BBK equal-length shorty headers; 2 1/2" exhaust into hi-flow
>>> cats and single chamber Flowmaster; Maximum Motorsports 4 pt strut
>>> tower brace; MM lower 4 pt K-member brace; Steeda Tri-Ax; Stock
>>> transmission into a 7.5" (!!) rear, rebuilt Jan 06; Kenwood KDC-X592U
>>> head unit with Sirius connect and iPod connection; Infinity Kappa
>>> Reference series component spkrs in door and dash, Kicker 10" sub in
>>> trunk, Lanzar 6 ch 300W amp;
>> It looks like you have some good engine mods that can be used later.
>> Especially if you keep near the same displacement. If you go up to 331
>> or 347 cid then you might need to replace a few parts. One thing to add
>> is subframe connectors. Now this is one mod I would recommend right
>> now. They are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in
>> handling and power to the rear wheels. The car will feel tighter than
>> when it was new. Finally, what's up with that 7.5" rear end? Was this
>> a four banger converted to a V-8?
>>
>>> Plan (in rough order):
>>> Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
>>> needed
>>> Suspension - Eibach Pro-System-Plus (springs, struts, shocks,
>>> swaybars) and Maximum Motorsports Caster - Camber plate, MM full-
>>> length welded - in subframe connectors
>> I'm a big fan of Maximum Motorsports and if it were my plan I would use
>> all their stuff and little of anything else. Not that what you has
>> proposed is bad but when you mix and match components that are supposed
>> to work together you might get surprised with conflicts during
>> installation. Now this is one mod I would recommend right now. They
>> are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in handling and
>> power to the rear wheels. The car will feel tighter than when it was
>> new. Also, the brand of subframes you use is important, especially if
>> you go with some MM suspension parts.
>>
>>> Driveline stage 1 - billet aluminum flywheel, performance clutch (King
>>> Cobra, maybe?), aluminum driveshaft (replace rear main seal and oil
>>> pan gasket while I'm at it)
>> I would do the rear end at this point too or before the above items.
>> IMO, it is the weak point is your drive train and the weak points are
>> what you should fix first or you will be fixing them unexpectedly when
>> they fail. I learned this the hard way too by trying to put 460 ft-lbs
>> of rwtq through a stock T-5. I hard a Viper spec T-56 in the car before
>> I knew what hit me.
>>
>>> Braking - Not yet sure how far to go, minimum SN95 caliper and master
>>> cylinder w/larger pads and disc; stainless steel caliper pin bushing;
>>> braided steel brake lines all around. Might go 4 wheel disc, but not
>>> sure of $$ and complexity.
>> It sounds like you are going for a corner carver so I would recommend
>> getting decent brakes and make them four wheel discs. Forget going with
>> SN95 parts as they are a pain in the ass. I have them on my car so take
>> my word for it. There are lots of brands and kits to choose from in
>> this category. IMO, as long as you stay with a solid brand and use
>> their entire kit you will be fine. I also have learned that stopping a
>> fast car quickly is more important than getting it moving quickly.
>>
>>> More suspension (later, will evaluate) - Rear control arms, upper
>>> and / or lower for grip / hook-up
>>> Driveline stage 2 - 8.8" rear with upgraded diff (Auburn, Eaton,
>>> etc.), maybe c-clip eliminator or 31spline axles, aluminum diff cover
>>> (for looks as much as anything else)
>> As I mentioned above, I would move this up to the top of your suspension
>> mods. For a N/A, near stock displacement 5.0L engine the 28 spline
>> axles are more than adequate, IMO. If you are buying axles as a
>> requirement of the rebuild then you might as well go with 31 spline
>> axles. Now here is where things can cost you if you don't have a plan.
>> Do you ever plan to go with five lug wheels? If you do then the
>> brakes and rear end you install need to be five lug too.
>>
>>> Engine - (long term, 1 - 2 years out) Head / Cam Intake combo; then
>>> later bottom end rebuild
>> There are lots of good combos out there for the 5.0L. Just decide where
>> you want the power and torque in the rpm band and choose accordingly.
>>
>>> Short-block swap
>> If you are going to do this then at least bump up the displacement to
>> 333 ci. It is basically free horsepower and torque if you are buying a
>> short block since the prices are about the same for each.
>>
>>> Along the way (no timeline, as time / money allow, sometimes between
>>> bigger pieces): Maximum Motorsports power steering pump / lines
>>> upgrades; wheels / tires; assorted interior dress-up / restoration;
>>> radiator; water-pump; MSD ignition box; paint ($$$ :-)); fuel
>>> regulator (per my last post), maybe with billet fuel rail; fuel pump;
>>> Thoughts / opinions?
>> My advice is research, research and research. When you think you know
>> all you need to know then research some more. Read the Mustang web site
>> forums regularly and see what people have to say that actually have
>> experience with speed parts. They have a wealth of information that you
>> can use to your benefit and, IMO, they collectively know a hell of a lot
>> more than most any local speed shop does about what parts actually
>> deliver the power manufacturers claim they deliver. Yhey also aren't
>> looking to make money from you so their information is more dependable.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> The car has about 110K on it, and the previous owner tells me the
> bottom end was rebuilt before he got it. Of course, I can find no
> evidence of this, but it's the strongest feeling of my three previous
> 5.0L's.

With that many miles you should do a compression and leak down test for
the cylinders to see if there is excessive wear. This might rearrange
the order of your engine modification or change them some.

> I really appreciate the feedback, I love leveraging the collected
> experience of a lot who have gone before me, and your posts are always
> real well thought out.

It doesn't matter what you plan to do, someone else has already done it
and can offer you some excellent advice. The trouble is finding and
communicating with that person. Places like this and other popular
Mustang sites are where you can meet them.

> Y'know what - that 7.5 is a MAJOR point of confusion to me. It blew
> once already, and for reasons of cost and expediency at the time, I
> had them rebuild it the same (wish I had that choice back). My
> mechanic tells me there was a 7.5 offered stock on the car at one
> time, but I can find ZERO evidence of this. The VIN engine code
> (eighth digit) is E, so I believe it is a stock 5.0. I wonder if a
> previous owner along the way did their own swap to another car - maybe
> a 4 cyl build-up.

The are only two ways that 7.5" rear end got there. It was originally a
four cylinder or someone took out the 8.8" and replaced it with a 7.5"
rear. Why someone would do that is beyond me. I doubt it will last
long behind a strong running engine.

> I'm trying to manage this in $1K at a time increments, and I know the
> suspension (with subs) will be FUN, and give me seat of the pants
> enjoyment, but the rear might be the smarter next step. I still go
> back and forth over whether to do fun (handling) or practical (rear)
> next.

I would increase that increment amount or vary the amount at each
milestone. Most items you plan to do will likely exceed that amount.
The engine alone will take around $3,000 for the short block, intake,
heads, cam, roller rockers, push rods etc. Then add more if you aren't
doing the work yourself.

> One additional problem I have with planning the rear work is that I'm
> not sure which axles to do. I'm happy enough with the wheels / tires
> I have, so I don't really need to go to five lug for THAT reason, but
> I think I will have to go 5 lug for any brake upgrade, and that will
> add to the job cost when I do the rear, cause I'll have to get front
> spindles and wheels / tires all the way around. (bang head...)

If you are doing the differential at the same time then I would go with
31 spline. If you are using the stock differential then you will need
to stay with 28 spline axles.

> Maybe I could redo the rear as is (4 lug, 27 spline), and plan on
> replacing the axles with 5 lug 31 splines when I do the brakes. What
> has to change in the rear to go from 27 -> 31? Or could I find 31
> spline 4 lugs, and upgrade 4 lug -> 5 lug when I do the brakes?

You will have to swap the differential if go from 28 to 31 spline later.
If you get a complete rear end that needs no work then I would just
keep the stock parts for a while. If you get one that needs rebuilt
then put the good stuff in it.

Jim C wrote:
> On Jun 2, 11:50 pm, elaich > wrote:
>> Jim C > wrote in news:c85dbf96-8c01-467e-b0ca-
>> :
>>
>>> Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
>>> needed
>> You are not going to get any kind of good audio with any kind of speakers
>> mounted in plastic with no reflex space behind them. Not to mention that
>> they are pointed at each other, not at you. Boxes in the cargo deck are a
>> must for starters.
>
> Good point, but this is a convertible - there is no rear deck. I know
> that with a convertible, audiophile sound is not gonna happen, between
> wind noise and the great big void between the trunk and passenger
> compartment where the top is most often folded down. What I want to
> get is the best I can spending on the low side of reasonable money (I
> enjoy good sound every time I drive, but in choosing where to spend my
> money, preference goes to performance). My theory is to build a
> 'sound stage' where the rear seat (forward - facing, behind a trim
> piece which is slotted, but covered with carpet), is the real lower /
> mid-range crunch, the door speakers facing the front seat passengers
> provide the mid-range drive, and the tweeters in the dash drive the
> highs 'in your face'. Whadya think? Other ideas? The other
> limitation is keeping the interior close to stock, in line with the
> 'resto-mod' idea.

If this is a convertible then get those subframes in next. You need to
get good ones since the convertible bodies flex like hell. You will be
amazed at the improvement in handling and over tightness of the chassis.

"Michael Johnson" > wrote in message
...
> Jim C wrote:
>> On Jun 2, 3:25 pm, Michael Johnson > wrote:
>>> Jim C wrote:
>>>> Every now and then, I post here looking for input on certain mods, and
>>>> one poster has replied, calling out the need for a plan, and
>>>> specifically regretting the wasted money that was spent on the car
>>>> without a larger plan. I've decided to post mine here, for a couple
>>>> reasons - to force myself to create and commit to it, to gather
>>>> feedback, and to have it online to answer questions.
>>>> Car: 1989 Mustang LX convertible (5.0), 5 speed
>>> How many miles on the car/engine?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Goals: Agressive street - car; 'Resto-mod' appearance, keeping
>>>> original except for 'tasteful' dress-up (ie white-face gauges, limited
>>>> interior Billet); good audio (preferring sound quality over
>>>> competition level volume); enhance braking and handling for 'balanced'
>>>> performance; enhance engine performance while staying naturally
>>>> aspirated; limited, if ever, track use or street - racing
>>>> Current state:
>>>> BBK in-fender cold-air kit, 73mm mass-air meter with correct air-tube
>>>> for 24# injectors, 70mm throttle body and EGR spacer, (former owner
>>>> claims they installed 24# injectors, I have never verified), MSD
>>>> billet distributor, Accel coil, 200Amp alternator (that still only
>>>> puts out 8V @ idle... grrrr); Ford Motorsport Blue 'Hi-Miler' type
>>>> hoses; BBK equal-length shorty headers; 2 1/2" exhaust into hi-flow
>>>> cats and single chamber Flowmaster; Maximum Motorsports 4 pt strut
>>>> tower brace; MM lower 4 pt K-member brace; Steeda Tri-Ax; Stock
>>>> transmission into a 7.5" (!!) rear, rebuilt Jan 06; Kenwood KDC-X592U
>>>> head unit with Sirius connect and iPod connection; Infinity Kappa
>>>> Reference series component spkrs in door and dash, Kicker 10" sub in
>>>> trunk, Lanzar 6 ch 300W amp;
>>> It looks like you have some good engine mods that can be used later.
>>> Especially if you keep near the same displacement. If you go up to 331
>>> or 347 cid then you might need to replace a few parts. One thing to add
>>> is subframe connectors. Now this is one mod I would recommend right
>>> now. They are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in
>>> handling and power to the rear wheels. The car will feel tighter than
>>> when it was new. Finally, what's up with that 7.5" rear end? Was this
>>> a four banger converted to a V-8?
>>>
>>>> Plan (in rough order):
>>>> Audio - 6 1/2" 2 or 3 way speakers in rear seat; tweak 'n tune as
>>>> needed
>>>> Suspension - Eibach Pro-System-Plus (springs, struts, shocks,
>>>> swaybars) and Maximum Motorsports Caster - Camber plate, MM full-
>>>> length welded - in subframe connectors
>>> I'm a big fan of Maximum Motorsports and if it were my plan I would use
>>> all their stuff and little of anything else. Not that what you has
>>> proposed is bad but when you mix and match components that are supposed
>>> to work together you might get surprised with conflicts during
>>> installation. Now this is one mod I would recommend right now. They
>>> are fantastic and you will feel an immediate difference in handling and
>>> power to the rear wheels. The car will feel tighter than when it was
>>> new. Also, the brand of subframes you use is important, especially if
>>> you go with some MM suspension parts.
>>>
>>>> Driveline stage 1 - billet aluminum flywheel, performance clutch (King
>>>> Cobra, maybe?), aluminum driveshaft (replace rear main seal and oil
>>>> pan gasket while I'm at it)
>>> I would do the rear end at this point too or before the above items.
>>> IMO, it is the weak point is your drive train and the weak points are
>>> what you should fix first or you will be fixing them unexpectedly when
>>> they fail. I learned this the hard way too by trying to put 460 ft-lbs
>>> of rwtq through a stock T-5. I hard a Viper spec T-56 in the car before
>>> I knew what hit me.
>>>
>>>> Braking - Not yet sure how far to go, minimum SN95 caliper and master
>>>> cylinder w/larger pads and disc; stainless steel caliper pin bushing;
>>>> braided steel brake lines all around. Might go 4 wheel disc, but not
>>>> sure of $$ and complexity.
>>> It sounds like you are going for a corner carver so I would recommend
>>> getting decent brakes and make them four wheel discs. Forget going with
>>> SN95 parts as they are a pain in the ass. I have them on my car so take
>>> my word for it. There are lots of brands and kits to choose from in
>>> this category. IMO, as long as you stay with a solid brand and use
>>> their entire kit you will be fine. I also have learned that stopping a
>>> fast car quickly is more important than getting it moving quickly.
>>>
>>>> More suspension (later, will evaluate) - Rear control arms, upper
>>>> and / or lower for grip / hook-up
>>>> Driveline stage 2 - 8.8" rear with upgraded diff (Auburn, Eaton,
>>>> etc.), maybe c-clip eliminator or 31spline axles, aluminum diff cover
>>>> (for looks as much as anything else)
>>> As I mentioned above, I would move this up to the top of your suspension
>>> mods. For a N/A, near stock displacement 5.0L engine the 28 spline
>>> axles are more than adequate, IMO. If you are buying axles as a
>>> requirement of the rebuild then you might as well go with 31 spline
>>> axles. Now here is where things can cost you if you don't have a plan.
>>> Do you ever plan to go with five lug wheels? If you do then the
>>> brakes and rear end you install need to be five lug too.
>>>
>>>> Engine - (long term, 1 - 2 years out) Head / Cam Intake combo; then
>>>> later bottom end rebuild
>>> There are lots of good combos out there for the 5.0L. Just decide where
>>> you want the power and torque in the rpm band and choose accordingly.
>>>
>>>> Short-block swap
>>> If you are going to do this then at least bump up the displacement to
>>> 333 ci. It is basically free horsepower and torque if you are buying a
>>> short block since the prices are about the same for each.
>>>
>>>> Along the way (no timeline, as time / money allow, sometimes between
>>>> bigger pieces): Maximum Motorsports power steering pump / lines
>>>> upgrades; wheels / tires; assorted interior dress-up / restoration;
>>>> radiator; water-pump; MSD ignition box; paint ($$$ :-)); fuel
>>>> regulator (per my last post), maybe with billet fuel rail; fuel pump;
>>>> Thoughts / opinions?
>>> My advice is research, research and research. When you think you know
>>> all you need to know then research some more. Read the Mustang web site
>>> forums regularly and see what people have to say that actually have
>>> experience with speed parts. They have a wealth of information that you
>>> can use to your benefit and, IMO, they collectively know a hell of a lot
>>> more than most any local speed shop does about what parts actually
>>> deliver the power manufacturers claim they deliver. Yhey also aren't
>>> looking to make money from you so their information is more dependable.-
>>> Hide quoted text -
>>>
>>> - Show quoted text -
>>
>> The car has about 110K on it, and the previous owner tells me the
>> bottom end was rebuilt before he got it. Of course, I can find no
>> evidence of this, but it's the strongest feeling of my three previous
>> 5.0L's.
>
> With that many miles you should do a compression and leak down test for
> the cylinders to see if there is excessive wear. This might rearrange the
> order of your engine modification or change them some.

89 with 110k miles is lite. It must have sat somewhere.
read the plugs
if compression is near 60 in any one of them you may have carbon build up in
the heads, head job.
if compression is not withing 10% across all then may have to rebuild
(stuff out of 5.0 mags and books)
I passed up modifying a 89 ex cop car as the compression was high (in the
60's) on a few and had some at 45, so I bought a 93 ex cop car checked it
nice and even
should run 45 to 52 roughly. Cops used to auction off the 5.0's a while
back. You might want to check your motor mounts too, see if the fan blade
is buzzing the bottom edge of the fan guard on an 89.
Then do a leak down.

>
>> I really appreciate the feedback, I love leveraging the collected
>> experience of a lot who have gone before me, and your posts are always
>> real well thought out.
>
> It doesn't matter what you plan to do, someone else has already done it
> and can offer you some excellent advice. The trouble is finding and
> communicating with that person. Places like this and other popular
> Mustang sites are where you can meet them.