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jack pad slot height



 
 
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  #11  
Old September 17th 17, 12:52 AM posted to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 931
Default jack pad slot height

On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 14:13:00 -0400, micky >
wrote:

>In rec.autos.tech, on 16 Sep 2017 11:18:14 -0400,
>(Scott Dorsey) wrote:
>
>>micky > wrote:
>>>Unfortunately, the engine failed on the Sebring last Sunday, after I had
>>>the car for 10 weeks and 800 miles! That will teach me not to buy a
>>>2.7L engine. So yesterday I bought another Solara, and even though I've
>>>had one for 6 years, I don't remember if it has a pinch weld or not.

>>
>>So, what failed? Did the car come with a log so you could see that
>>maintenance had been done on it?
>>--scott

>
>No log. It was one of 4 gold Sebrings for sale on ebay motors that
>week, and it was the newest, in the best cosmetic condition, and it had
>only 72,000 miles. The others had more. When I got it there was a
>sticker on the windhield that it had the oil changed only 1000 miles
>earlier, but who knows what happened before that. I didnt' try to check
>carfax, largely because I never have before, but I did this time and
>even the free version has more information than I expected, at least
>when the maintenance/repairs are done by a reporting shop. (What % of
>shops participate in this?)


Well, if the maintenance shows up, you know it was maintained. If it
doesn't show up you don't know i9f it was maintained or not, so you
check in other ways or just walk away.
>
>Some part inside the engine. I was only going 65 and when I got to a
>toll booth, the engine stalled. And wouldn't restart. When cranked the
>engine sort of jingled, like shaking a key ring. Not a single cylinder
>ignited and it didn't sound like a normal engine during cranking without
>ignition. My mechanic told me what a problem Chrysler 2.7L engines
>were when he inspected it so I could get plates, but I've always had
>good luck** with used cars, so I still wasn't worried. Even though I
>lost 4000 dollars, I'm still not upset, because for 6 years I wanted a
>gold Sebring, and for 10 weeks and 800 miles I had one. That's more than
>most people can say.
>
>Apparently what happens is one of the dohcams stops, the timing *chain*
>stalls or breaks, and iirc it's an interference engine. I didn't worry
>about that since it had a chain, not a belt, but chains break too it
>seems.


What year was the Sebring?? The 2.7 makes me think early( 1st
generation) which is the "time bomb" Mitsu****ty engine. Nothing cheap
to repair on a Mitsu.
>
>Don't tell me I could have fixed it cheap. It's gone now and I don't
>want to hear it. It was a nice car except I could feel every bump. So
>I went back to a Solara. In the first 8 weeks I had the car, I drove
>both on the same streets, and on one street, the Sebring really shook on
>several places -- I couldn't see while driving what made the bump, which
>was an inch long and ran the width of the road -- but in the Solara, I
>felt nothing and could barely hear anything. I hate to praise the car,
>which had several small things I didn't like in comparison to any of the
>LeBarons, but the ride is good. They were both quiet.
>
>I had 3 Chrysler LeBArons in a row, for 23 years, and I don't remember
>their ride being rough. The Sebring was never a copy of the Lebaron --
>made in a different plant I think and various things were different --
>but do you think there is a chance that when daemler owned Chrysler they
>changed the car to be more European, meaning, I'm told, a stiffer
>suspension and the bumps I felt???

..
>
>Another difference might have been that whenever I took my eyes off the
>highway, to get a banana from the passensger seat, or even to adjust the
>radio, I would stray into another lane??? Maybe I shouldn't do those
>things but I've done them in all the other cars without leaving my lane.
>Maybe I just needed more time with the car to learn how to drive
>straight in highway driving even during a 5 or 10 second distraction,
>but it happened almost every time. If I still had the car I'd drive it
>without my hands and see how that went, but I didn't notice any other
>handling problem.


Perhaps not all Sebring convertibles drove that badly - mabee you just
got one that was damaged/abused.
>
>
>**This was the 7th used car I've bought and I think only for one have I
>spent more than 100 dollars on repairs in the first two years. Maybe
>it's more than that but not much. The one exception needed a repaired
>transmission, didn't have high gear, which I think cost me 1000, but
>this was during the convertible shortage and I had to check out 12
>counties in and around NYC with 15 million people to find even one I
>wanted, so I would have bought it even if I'd noticed.


When you buy based on a specific desire - for instance a convertible -
and are willing to "settle" for anything to get that "feature" you
often end up over paying for a "bad deal".
Ads
  #13  
Old September 17th 17, 03:53 AM posted to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
Bob F
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 75
Default jack pad slot height

On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote:
>
> What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
> thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in
> the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot?
>
>
> I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld
> line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it
> up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came
> with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack
> with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking
> it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were
> stupid enough to put the jack there.
>
> But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch
> weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside.
>
> What good is that?
>


I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib
because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out
over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat
surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away,
like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end.
  #14  
Old September 17th 17, 05:26 AM posted to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 383
Default jack pad slot height

In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:53:17 -0700, Bob F
> wrote:

>On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote:
>>
>> What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
>> thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in
>> the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot?
>>
>>
>> I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld
>> line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it
>> up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came
>> with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack
>> with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking
>> it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were
>> stupid enough to put the jack there.
>>
>> But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch
>> weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside.
>>
>> What good is that?
>>

>
>I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib
>because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out
>over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat
>surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away,
>like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end.


That sounds pretty good. It would mean the notch is there only to
position the pad, and the pad is used so that the rib wouldn't just be
sitting on the jack's "saddle" at the two places on its circumference.

If you're right, the guy who made his own seems to have made the notch
too deep.

The scissors jack in the trunk also had a notch, but I didn't measure
how deep it was compared to the rib, and alas, the car is gone now,
never to return. But maybe I'll find another one to check some day.
  #15  
Old September 17th 17, 05:51 AM posted to rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 931
Default jack pad slot height

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 00:26:32 -0400, micky >
wrote:

>In rec.autos.tech, on Sat, 16 Sep 2017 19:53:17 -0700, Bob F
> wrote:
>
>>On 9/5/2017 10:21 AM, micky wrote:
>>>
>>> What good is a jackpad with a slot if the slot is not deeper than the
>>> thing it holds? Isn't the idea that the weld area fits completely in
>>> the slot and the car is supported on either side of the slot?
>>>
>>>
>>> I accidentally came across a jack pad with a slot in it, so the weld
>>> line on unibody cars doesn't hold the weight of the car when you jack it
>>> up. And that's when I realized a) I need that, b) the jack that came
>>> with the car has a slot, but if I jack it up at home I use a better jack
>>> with no slot, c) there is already damage from people before me jacking
>>> it up, and d) the drain holes in the fender could be damaged if I were
>>> stupid enough to put the jack there.
>>>
>>> But...... the slots range from 1/4 inch to 0.63 inches, and my pinch
>>> weld is almost an inch high on the outside and higher yet on the inside.
>>>
>>> What good is that?
>>>

>>
>>I would think that they want the jack to be lifting on the welded rib
>>because that is where the most stiffness is to spread the weight out
>>over more of the frame, rather that putting the weight on the flat
>>surface that can then dent in. Once it dents, its strength goes away,
>>like denting the side of a beer can when trying to squash it from the end.

>
>That sounds pretty good. It would mean the notch is there only to
>position the pad, and the pad is used so that the rib wouldn't just be
>sitting on the jack's "saddle" at the two places on its circumference.
>
>If you're right, the guy who made his own seems to have made the notch
>too deep.
>
>The scissors jack in the trunk also had a notch, but I didn't measure
>how deep it was compared to the rib, and alas, the car is gone now,
>never to return. But maybe I'll find another one to check some day.

The notch in the jack is to prevent the jack from sliding out fromm
under the car, or the re-enforced portion of the pinch weld from
slipping off the jack. The notch is never deep enough to let the flat
surface of the rocker panel contact the jack, as the sheet metal of
the rocker panel is not anywhere near strong enough to support the
vehicle on the jack
 




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