97 Taurus SHO brake issue

Hi All!

Last summer my RL brakes overheated so much that the pads melted to the
disc. I took it into meineke (not happy with the local dealer's
previous work) and they replaced the calipers, etc.

The symptom would be a howling just after releasing the brakes after
they had heated up.

After a week of driving, the howling was still there, though less. They
adjusted the emergency brake while the car was on the rack.

It still howls, not very often, and usually when cold. They seem to
think that the wheel bearing has gone.

My brakes are pulsating now too (started in late April) but I am not
sure which wheel yet. I'm no auto buff, just a geek

I have a Fluke IR thermometer so I drove around braking, then measured
the discs. Between 0-60f hotter on the left wheel (it fluctuates) while
the others are consistent and the same temp (fronts and RR)

Meineke put remanufactured calipers on last summer.

My mileage has been as low as 15mpg in the city, 25hwy.

Could the bearing have gone bad, or am I paying $300 for a new wheel
that I don't need?

What is the best way to figure this out?

They also said they fired the guy who adjusted my emergency brake on the
rack, that it should have be done on the ground.

Meineke says they use "A C E bearing hub assemblies" and
the part is $216.

How does this sound?

Thanks

"none" > wrote in message
...
> Hi All!
>
> Last summer my RL brakes overheated so much that the pads melted to the
> disc. I took it into meineke (not happy with the local dealer's
> previous work) and they replaced the calipers, etc.
>
> The symptom would be a howling just after releasing the brakes after
> they had heated up.
>
> After a week of driving, the howling was still there, though less. They
> adjusted the emergency brake while the car was on the rack.
>
> It still howls, not very often, and usually when cold. They seem to
> think that the wheel bearing has gone.
>
> My brakes are pulsating now too (started in late April) but I am not
> sure which wheel yet. I'm no auto buff, just a geek
>
> I have a Fluke IR thermometer so I drove around braking, then measured
> the discs. Between 0-60f hotter on the left wheel (it fluctuates) while
> the others are consistent and the same temp (fronts and RR)
>
> Meineke put remanufactured calipers on last summer.
>
> My mileage has been as low as 15mpg in the city, 25hwy.
>
> Could the bearing have gone bad, or am I paying $300 for a new wheel
> that I don't need?
>
> What is the best way to figure this out?
>
> They also said they fired the guy who adjusted my emergency brake on the
> rack, that it should have be done on the ground.
>
> Meineke says they use "A C E bearing hub assemblies" and
> the part is $216.
>
> How does this sound?
>
> Thanks
I'd first look & see if there is a flexible brake fluid line supplying
fluid to that particular wheel. If so, replace it--just the flexible part.
The inside can deteriorate & act as a valve, preventing the fluid (applied
by the brakes to that caliper) from releasing pressure & flowing back
towards the master cylinder. The effect could be just as if a brake pedal
were held down tightly, applying braking force to that one wheel. (When the
bad flex hose acts as a valve the other way, that particular caliper
responds as if there is no fluid/pressure getting to it, allowing it to
free-wheel when brakes are applied.) HTH & good luck, s

Here is a picture of the rear left brake hose (from the brake section
of the www.rockauto.com auto parts catalog):
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Raybesto...l?BH380416.jpg

The hose does have a flexible center. It would be interesting if an
$11 hose did cause all this trouble.

sdlomi2 wrote:
> "none" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi All!
> >
> > Last summer my RL brakes overheated so much that the pads melted to the
> > disc. I took it into meineke (not happy with the local dealer's
> > previous work) and they replaced the calipers, etc.
> >
> > The symptom would be a howling just after releasing the brakes after
> > they had heated up.
> >
> > After a week of driving, the howling was still there, though less. They
> > adjusted the emergency brake while the car was on the rack.
> >
> > It still howls, not very often, and usually when cold. They seem to
> > think that the wheel bearing has gone.
> >
> > My brakes are pulsating now too (started in late April) but I am not
> > sure which wheel yet. I'm no auto buff, just a geek
> >
> > I have a Fluke IR thermometer so I drove around braking, then measured
> > the discs. Between 0-60f hotter on the left wheel (it fluctuates) while
> > the others are consistent and the same temp (fronts and RR)
> >
> > Meineke put remanufactured calipers on last summer.
> >
> > My mileage has been as low as 15mpg in the city, 25hwy.
> >
> > Could the bearing have gone bad, or am I paying $300 for a new wheel
> > that I don't need?
> >
> > What is the best way to figure this out?
> >
> > They also said they fired the guy who adjusted my emergency brake on the
> > rack, that it should have be done on the ground.
> >
> > Meineke says they use "A C E bearing hub assemblies" and
> > the part is $216.
> >
> > How does this sound?
> >
> > Thanks
> I'd first look & see if there is a flexible brake fluid line supplying
> fluid to that particular wheel. If so, replace it--just the flexible part.
> The inside can deteriorate & act as a valve, preventing the fluid (applied
> by the brakes to that caliper) from releasing pressure & flowing back
> towards the master cylinder. The effect could be just as if a brake pedal
> were held down tightly, applying braking force to that one wheel. (When the
> bad flex hose acts as a valve the other way, that particular caliper
> responds as if there is no fluid/pressure getting to it, allowing it to
> free-wheel when brakes are applied.) HTH & good luck, s

On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 22:56:38 GMT, none > wrote:

>Hi All!
>
>Last summer my RL brakes overheated so much that the pads melted to the
>disc. I took it into meineke

If you took it to Meineke you can expect problems.
They recommend services based on quotas from the corporate office as
opposed to what needs to be done to fix the car.
Find a good independent brake and front end shop.

Don
www.donsautomotive.com


> (not happy with the local dealer's
>previous work) and they replaced the calipers, etc.
>
>The symptom would be a howling just after releasing the brakes after
>they had heated up.
>
>After a week of driving, the howling was still there, though less. They
>adjusted the emergency brake while the car was on the rack.

Almost certainly it shouldn't have been touched.

>It still howls, not very often, and usually when cold. They seem to
>think that the wheel bearing has gone.

They are probably guessing.

>My brakes are pulsating now too

Rotor(s) warped/thickness variation from severe heat.

> (started in late April) but I am not
>sure which wheel yet. I'm no auto buff, just a geek
>
>I have a Fluke IR thermometer so I drove around braking, then measured
>the discs. Between 0-60f hotter on the left wheel (it fluctuates) while
>the others are consistent and the same temp (fronts and RR)
>
>Meineke put remanufactured calipers on last summer.
>
>My mileage has been as low as 15mpg in the city, 25hwy.
>
>Could the bearing have gone bad, or am I paying $300 for a new wheel
>that I don't need?
>
>What is the best way to figure this out?

Find a real mechanic who does not work at a franchise place.

>They also said they fired the guy who adjusted my emergency brake on the
>rack, that it should have be done on the ground.

This makes no sense. Well.....might make sense to fire the guy but
not how to adjust the parking brake.

>Meineke says they use "A C E bearing hub assemblies" and
>the part is $216.
>
>How does this sound?

OK except you need a full reliable diagnosis first!

>Thanks