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#31
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
On Dec 11, 2:43 pm, "'Key" > wrote:
> "1976VetteGuy" > wrote in message > > ... > > > > > > > To all that helped me out I thank you... > > > So from reading past posts, I am going to install the > > manual valves on > > the hoses as I think the vacuum control valve might be > > stuck in the > > closed position or something as I am not getting any flow > > to the > > heater core. > > > One last question to everyone about this...do I need to > > drain the > > coolant level down to close off these valves in the > > summer? Also, > > when they are shut off, how can I make sure the heater > > core is not > > going to rust while it is not being used? In other words, > > do I drain > > it somehow when I close off the manual valves? Or does > > the water just > > stay in there all summer? > > > Thanks again!!! > > you should get the flow going to the heater core first. > then don't drain the core. > just simply open the valves from time to time to circulate > the coolant through the heater core. > > g'day > -- > 'Key > =====- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - So I replaced the vacuum valve with a manual one and now I have heat. The old valve was all gunked up and plugged, so I thank everyone that helped me! |
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#32
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
On Dec 12, 1:32 am, WayneC > wrote:
> 1976VetteGuy wrote: > > So from reading past posts, I am going to install the manual valves on > > the hoses as I think the vacuum control valve might be stuck in the > > closed position or something as I am not getting any flow to the > > heater core. > > > One last question to everyone about this...do I need to drain the > > coolant level down to close off these valves in the summer? Also, > > when they are shut off, how can I make sure the heater core is not > > going to rust while it is not being used? In other words, do I drain > > it somehow when I close off the manual valves? Or does the water just > > stay in there all summer? > > > Thanks again!!! > > Did you price a vacuum valve? I think they are pretty reasonably priced. > Why be fiddling with a valve under the hood when you don't have to? > The heater core is made of aluminum (or possibly copper)... assuming that > you keep a 50/50 mixture of water and quality anti-freeze in your cooling > system and drain/refill every 3 to 5 years, with no leakage in the system > in between refills, then no "rusting" or other deterioration should occur > (it's just like leaving Pepsi in the can), so no need to drain the > heater core. I did look at a new vacuum valve, but it's not price that made me go with the manual valves. The original valve didn't have any vacuum line hooked up to it and I couldn't find one that wasn't being used, so I would have had to fix the vacuum problem and I just wanted to get the heat working. Besides that, most of the forums that I have read, say that the manual valves are better in the hotter days because it cuts off the supply of hot water to the heater core and makes the interior cabin much cooler. I know it's not stock or original, but I can always go back to that if I want or need to do so. Thanks for the reply!!! |
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