Root cause insight into the common BMW blower motor resistorfailures

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 05:20:37 -0700, wrote:

> If you google for 10901D it comes back with hits to Chinese chip brokers
> that show it as an Elmos 16 pin surface mount chip.

I found a Russian language description of it he
http://tinyurl.com/crg2sms
http://kazus.ru/schematics/electrica...ohistory=1&h=1

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 12:31:09 +0000, Bimmer Owner wrote:

> I found a Russian language description of it he
> http://tinyurl.com/crg2sms

Here is a google translation

REGULATOR ELMOS 10901D
Car Voltage Regulator
Category: Car
Source: Radioland country Electronics
Temperature controller cabin air KAMAZ

Source: Plans radiokonstruktsy
Simple Temperature compensated voltage regulator.
Controller together with thyristor-transistor electronic ignition unit
with a long spark, ensuring the rapid start-ups at various operating
conditions, allowed to increase battery life of up to nine years.

Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Regulator for automotive windshield

Source: MASTER KIT
The controller measures the wiper-this control is designed to use regular mode switch blades and is contactless.

Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Temperature compensated voltage regulator device in some ways superior designs.
The controller can be used as a universal device is suitable not only for
mounting on any car, but everywhere, where the generator rotor speed is
variable (eg, wind power).
Choose the appropriate control elements, it can be easily adapted to work
with any voltage (up to 400V) and excitation current (tens of amperes).

Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage regulator 2012.3702, 22.3702, 221.3702

Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage regulator 201.3702

Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage Regulator 13.3702

Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage regulator RR132A, 1112.3702

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 12:31:09 +0000, Bimmer Owner wrote:

> I found a Russian language description of it he

Googling for the Russian text, I find they appear to have
the same problem with the same FSU over he
http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/vie...838466#8838466

On 03/22/2013 05:34 AM, Bimmer Owner wrote:
> On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 12:31:09 +0000, Bimmer Owner wrote:
>
>> I found a Russian language description of it he
>> http://tinyurl.com/crg2sms
>
> Here is a google translation
>
> REGULATOR ELMOS 10901D
> Car Voltage Regulator
> Category: Car
> Source: Radioland country Electronics
> Temperature controller cabin air KAMAZ
>
> Source: Plans radiokonstruktsy
> Simple Temperature compensated voltage regulator.
> Controller together with thyristor-transistor electronic ignition unit
> with a long spark, ensuring the rapid start-ups at various operating
> conditions, allowed to increase battery life of up to nine years.
>
> Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
> Regulator for automotive windshield
>
> Source: MASTER KIT
> The controller measures the wiper-this control is designed to use regular mode switch blades and is contactless.
>
> Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
> Temperature compensated voltage regulator device in some ways superior designs.
> The controller can be used as a universal device is suitable not only for
> mounting on any car, but everywhere, where the generator rotor speed is
> variable (eg, wind power).
> Choose the appropriate control elements, it can be easily adapted to work
> with any voltage (up to 400V) and excitation current (tens of amperes).
>
> Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
> Voltage regulator 2012.3702, 22.3702, 221.3702
>
> Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
> Voltage regulator 201.3702
>
> Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
> Voltage Regulator 13.3702
>
> Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
> Voltage regulator RR132A, 1112.3702
>

you don't need to know this stuff any more than you need to know the gas
excitation voltage in a broken fluorescent tube. because you're not
going to unpot the thing and replace the chip. because it's probably
not the chip in the first place.

not trying to be rude - just trying to get you focused on the relevant
stuff - that the two options a

1. continue replacing the existing [under-rated, low tech] unit.
2. build and deploy a pwm unit instead.

#1 is really not /that/ expensive, particularly if you factor in time,
even if it is part of the bmw marketing susceptibility tax.

#2 is a much better time investment - it certainly has a much better
return than figuring out that the existing unit is not repairable later
rather than sooner.


--
fact check required

On 03/21/2013 09:31 PM, Bimmer Owner wrote:
> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
>
>> Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
>> get the current of the blower motor.
>
> That's an interesting idea.
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475041.jpg
>
> The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
> http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
>
> It's a 40 amp fuse

you don't want to try and use a 10/20A meter in the slot of a 40A fuse.
you probably already know that, but just saying.


> under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
> spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
> visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
>
> So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475043.jpg
>


--
fact check required

jim beam wrote on Fri, 22 Mar 2013 07:04:19 -0700:

> #1 is really not /that/ expensive, particularly if you factor in time,
> even if it is part of the bmw marketing susceptibility tax.

I don't know how many bmws are out there, but let's say it's a million
and then multiply that million by 100 dollars, and then let's see how
much it is in terms of expense.

On Mar 21, 11:22*am, Bimmer Owner > wrote:
> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 03:55:47 -0700, the will wrote:
> > Blower motor drawing too much amperage taking it out.
> > Change the blower motor anytime?
>
> This is an interesting approach, given that the vast majority of
> bimmer owners do NOT replace the blower motor - they replace the FSU.
>
> While the blower motor replacement procedure is a major PITA, one
> 'can' test the leads from the FSU harness connector pins #5 and #1
> which are power and ground respectively to the blower motor.
>
> Again, we don't have a circuit diagram, but it has been said that
> the blower motor takes about 6 amps (variously, depending on the speed)
> but it would take a test jig to test that in operation.
>
> To my knowledge, nobody has created that test jig (although I know
> of only one attempt, which failed):http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...&highlight=fsu
>
> It's easy enough to test the resistance of the blower motor though,
> and those results have come out at about 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
>
> It would be expensive to change a blower motor on a whim, so, how
> would YOU suggest the blower motor be tested in situ?

If it's just a typical DC motor with two leads, apply 12V and
it should run full speed. You could also measure how many amps it
draws when running. That is, IF it's just an ordinary motor.

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
> wrote:

>On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
>
>> Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
>> get the current of the blower motor.
>
>That's an interesting idea.
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475041.jpg
>
>The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
> http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
>
>It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
>spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
>visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
>
>So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult

On Mar 22, 3:04*pm, wrote:
> On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
>
>
>
>
>
> > wrote:
> >On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
>
> >> *Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
> >> get the current of the blower motor.
>
> >That's an interesting idea.
> >http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475041.jpg
>
> >The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
> >http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
>
> >It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
> >spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
> >visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
>
> >So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
> >http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475043.jpg
>
> * Why would you have to cut the wires????
> Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. *You guys make your
> lives so difficult- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

It's kind of amazing the fuse is 40 amps, no? I mean a 1 hp
motor draws ~1500W And this heater blower is 480W?
Seems like a lot to me.....

On 03/22/2013 12:43 PM, wrote:
> On Mar 22, 3:04�pm, wrote:
>> On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > wrote:
>>> On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
>>
>>>> �Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
>>>> get the current of the blower motor.
>>
>>> That's an interesting idea.
>>> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475041.jpg
>>
>>> The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
>>> http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
>>
>>> It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
>>> spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
>>> visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
>>
>>> So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
>>> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12475043.jpg
>>
>> � Why would you have to cut the wires????
>> Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. �You guys make your
>> lives so difficult- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> It's kind of amazing the fuse is 40 amps, no? I mean a 1 hp
> motor draws ~1500W And this heater blower is 480W?
> Seems like a lot to me.....
>

in this thread it's been said it draws 6A running. x 12V, that's 72W.

but the reason you have 40A is you have very high current start-up
transients. on a cold day with a gale blowing outside the car, and some
snow in the system, you could be into the 30's without too much problem.
so you need an amperage that will still blow in the event of short
circuit, but which will tolerate the above.


--
fact check required