Weak Semiphores - are they still good?

Hi all
I am in the process of getting 1955 ragtop with semi4's.
Owner told me the semi's are acting tired - with the switch engaged,
they want to rise but don't seem to have the strength. One they are
up, they stay up, and will lower when the switch is disengaged.
I read somewhere that either semis work or they are completely dead.
Is this true - if so, maybe I will not have to get new semi's - can
they be fixed??- maybe ground wires and terminal ends of wires need to
be cleaned(?)
Much to learn about this bug ( will get in in mid -Nov)

I'm sure I'll be bothering people on this group about this age car -
never had a bug so old
- had 8 bugs so far, all 67 -73

Thanks so much

Matt S.

"MATT S." > wrote in message
om...
> Hi all
> I am in the process of getting 1955 ragtop with semi4's.
> Owner told me the semi's are acting tired - with the switch engaged,
> they want to rise but don't seem to have the strength. One they are
> up, they stay up, and will lower when the switch is disengaged.
> I read somewhere that either semis work or they are completely dead.
> Is this true - if so, maybe I will not have to get new semi's - can
> they be fixed??- maybe ground wires and terminal ends of wires need to
> be cleaned(?)
> Much to learn about this bug ( will get in in mid -Nov)
>
> I'm sure I'll be bothering people on this group about this age car -
> never had a bug so old
> - had 8 bugs so far, all 67 -73
>
> Thanks so much
>
> Matt S.

I have a 55 oval ragtop with semaphores. The design is very simple. An
electromagnet (when energized) pulls a metal rod down the center of the
magnet winding.. The rod is hinged to the semaphore which then opens out.
When the turn lever is returned to neutral (it is not self cancelling) the
electromagnet deenergizes and a spring pulls the arm in (and the rod up).
There is a small metal tab which releases the entire semaphore unit for
service and repair. I cannot be sure but I think that some light machine oil
judiciously applied to the rod where it enters the magnet windings may solve
the problem. Another possibility is corrosion at the hinge points for the
lighted arm.

Howard


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"MATT S." wrote:
>
> Hi all
> I am in the process of getting 1955 ragtop with semi4's.
> Owner told me the semi's are acting tired - with the switch engaged,
> they want to rise but don't seem to have the strength. One they are
> up, they stay up, and will lower when the switch is disengaged.
> I read somewhere that either semis work or they are completely dead.
> Is this true - if so, maybe I will not have to get new semi's - can
> they be fixed??- maybe ground wires and terminal ends of wires need to
> be cleaned(?)
> Much to learn about this bug ( will get in in mid -Nov)
>
> I'm sure I'll be bothering people on this group about this age car -
> never had a bug so old
> - had 8 bugs so far, all 67 -73
>
> Thanks so much
>
> Matt S.



Seen it. Charging system not in perfect condition, battery not in
perfect condition, and check the fuses and wire terminals everywhere
too.

If nothing else helps, the semaphonre electro magnets can be rewound,
even to make them work on 12V. The windings may be damaged or corroded
somehow.

Jan

Thanks so much!,
I'll check out the things that are mentioned;, and post back.
Wonder who rewinds semiphores - if that is needed. I'm guessing it is
a specialty as it appears to be a tight winding. Only have seen a pic
or two of the "internals" of semiphores - so maybe I'll have to wait
and see up close about the windings & figure things out.

Matt S.





Jan Andersson > wrote in message >...
> "MATT S." wrote:
> >
> > Hi all
> > I am in the process of getting 1955 ragtop with semi4's.
> > Owner told me the semi's are acting tired - with the switch engaged,
> > they want to rise but don't seem to have the strength. One they are
> > up, they stay up, and will lower when the switch is disengaged.
> > I read somewhere that either semis work or they are completely dead.
> > Is this true - if so, maybe I will not have to get new semi's - can
> > they be fixed??- maybe ground wires and terminal ends of wires need to
> > be cleaned(?)
> > Much to learn about this bug ( will get in in mid -Nov)
> >
> > I'm sure I'll be bothering people on this group about this age car -
> > never had a bug so old
> > - had 8 bugs so far, all 67 -73
> >
> > Thanks so much
> >
> > Matt S.
>
>
>
> Seen it. Charging system not in perfect condition, battery not in
> perfect condition, and check the fuses and wire terminals everywhere
> too.
>
> If nothing else helps, the semaphonre electro magnets can be rewound,
> even to make them work on 12V. The windings may be damaged or corroded
> somehow.
>
> Jan

Not much can damage the windings it's just a coil. If not a mechanical
problem, if both sides slow check common wiring and grounds. I don't know
the circuit but if you could disconnect one and connect directly to a 6v
battery you might find out that it works great and then you would find out
that 6 volt systems create alot of problems due to corroded or bad
connections- esp in bug where there is alot of wire from battery to switch
to those semaphores. As suggested a bad connection would cause twice the
problems on a 6v system as a 12v system, and you got a old car. I would go
thru every connection on the car and check it is clean and tight and avoid
the 12v conversion (purist). If you need 12v for tunes get a 6-12v
converter just for that.

Got a voltmeter? With signal on measure from batt+ to sem coil batt
connection. Then batt- to sem coil ground connection. In both cases 0
voltage drop ideal, but expect some. Work your way back to the battery to
find where change in voltage drop is largest and you just passed the bad
connection.

Those copper connections are probly loose or tarnished and I don't know how
to clean them if I could go back 30 years when I had my 1960 I would try
tarn-x on them then rinse off but don't know if that's good idea or not. I
had some problems on fuse block. I also couldn't get it to start very well
so I wired a 1 1/2 volt dry cell battery in glove box with a DPDT switch to
give me 7 1/2 volts just to the ignition coil when I started it then
switched it back to 6v after it started. Started right up every time- coil
didn't use much juice and battery lasted longer than car.
Dave


"MATT S." > wrote in message
om...
> Thanks so much!,
> I'll check out the things that are mentioned;, and post back.
> Wonder who rewinds semiphores - if that is needed. I'm guessing it is
> a specialty as it appears to be a tight winding. Only have seen a pic
> or two of the "internals" of semiphores - so maybe I'll have to wait
> and see up close about the windings & figure things out.
>
> Matt S.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jan Andersson > wrote in message
>...
> > "MATT S." wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all
> > > I am in the process of getting 1955 ragtop with semi4's.
> > > Owner told me the semi's are acting tired - with the switch engaged,
> > > they want to rise but don't seem to have the strength. One they are
> > > up, they stay up, and will lower when the switch is disengaged.
> > > I read somewhere that either semis work or they are completely dead.
> > > Is this true - if so, maybe I will not have to get new semi's - can
> > > they be fixed??- maybe ground wires and terminal ends of wires need to
> > > be cleaned(?)
> > > Much to learn about this bug ( will get in in mid -Nov)
> > >
> > > I'm sure I'll be bothering people on this group about this age car -
> > > never had a bug so old
> > > - had 8 bugs so far, all 67 -73
> > >
> > > Thanks so much
> > >
> > > Matt S.
> >
> >
> >
> > Seen it. Charging system not in perfect condition, battery not in
> > perfect condition, and check the fuses and wire terminals everywhere
> > too.
> >
> > If nothing else helps, the semaphonre electro magnets can be rewound,
> > even to make them work on 12V. The windings may be damaged or corroded
> > somehow.
> >
> > Jan

There are trashed,,,!
I say, cut out the pillars all together, and replace them with smooth
pillars from another bug.

Then send me the *bad* ones with the semaphores in them, so i can
properly dispose of them for you

;-)

vwluvrs

Ok, thanks I'll get my sawzall and - HEY no! - no waaay!

you're a baaaad person!

Thanks anyway

Matt S.



vwluvrs > wrote in message >...
> There are trashed,,,!
> I say, cut out the pillars all together, and replace them with smooth
> pillars from another bug.
>
> Then send me the *bad* ones with the semaphores in them, so i can
> properly dispose of them for you
>
> ;-)

Dave, thanks so much for the tips, I'll definitely give it a try.
Great suggestions
I'm a purist too, want to keep this original.
Matt S.

"Dave" > wrote in message m>...
> Not much can damage the windings it's just a coil. If not a mechanical
> problem, if both sides slow check common wiring and grounds. I don't know
> the circuit but if you could disconnect one and connect directly to a 6v
> battery you might find out that it works great and then you would find out
> that 6 volt systems create alot of problems due to corroded or bad
> connections- esp in bug where there is alot of wire from battery to switch
> to those semaphores. As suggested a bad connection would cause twice the
> problems on a 6v system as a 12v system, and you got a old car. I would go
> thru every connection on the car and check it is clean and tight and avoid
> the 12v conversion (purist). If you need 12v for tunes get a 6-12v
> converter just for that.
>
> Got a voltmeter? With signal on measure from batt+ to sem coil batt
> connection. Then batt- to sem coil ground connection. In both cases 0
> voltage drop ideal, but expect some. Work your way back to the battery to
> find where change in voltage drop is largest and you just passed the bad
> connection.
>
> Those copper connections are probly loose or tarnished and I don't know how
> to clean them if I could go back 30 years when I had my 1960 I would try
> tarn-x on them then rinse off but don't know if that's good idea or not. I
> had some problems on fuse block. I also couldn't get it to start very well
> so I wired a 1 1/2 volt dry cell battery in glove box with a DPDT switch to
> give me 7 1/2 volts just to the ignition coil when I started it then
> switched it back to 6v after it started. Started right up every time- coil
> didn't use much juice and battery lasted longer than car.
> Dave
>
>
> "MATT S." > wrote in message
> om...
> > Thanks so much!,
> > I'll check out the things that are mentioned;, and post back.
> > Wonder who rewinds semiphores - if that is needed. I'm guessing it is
> > a specialty as it appears to be a tight winding. Only have seen a pic
> > or two of the "internals" of semiphores - so maybe I'll have to wait
> > and see up close about the windings & figure things out.
> >
> > Matt S.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Jan Andersson > wrote in message
> >...
> > > "MATT S." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all
> > > > I am in the process of getting 1955 ragtop with semi4's.
> > > > Owner told me the semi's are acting tired - with the switch engaged,
> > > > they want to rise but don't seem to have the strength. One they are
> > > > up, they stay up, and will lower when the switch is disengaged.
> > > > I read somewhere that either semis work or they are completely dead.
> > > > Is this true - if so, maybe I will not have to get new semi's - can
> > > > they be fixed??- maybe ground wires and terminal ends of wires need to
> > > > be cleaned(?)
> > > > Much to learn about this bug ( will get in in mid -Nov)
> > > >
> > > > I'm sure I'll be bothering people on this group about this age car -
> > > > never had a bug so old
> > > > - had 8 bugs so far, all 67 -73
> > > >
> > > > Thanks so much
> > > >
> > > > Matt S.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Seen it. Charging system not in perfect condition, battery not in
> > > perfect condition, and check the fuses and wire terminals everywhere
> > > too.
> > >
> > > If nothing else helps, the semaphonre electro magnets can be rewound,
> > > even to make them work on 12V. The windings may be damaged or corroded
> > > somehow.
> > >
> > > Jan