Plugs and wipers

P.J.Berg wrote:
>
> Another aspect of this is the fact that the valve clearance is given at
> TDC, which is not the optimal setting.
> The clearance stated is the minimal. So what you want to do is turn the
> engine over slightly back and forth with your feeler gauge in there
> until you find the biggest clearance/slack. And THAT is where you adjust
> to .10 or .15
>
> Repeat this for all eight valves and you'll know you have done the right
> thing even if it took you an hour or two.
>
> This is not a witch tale, pure physics, test drive and you will notice.

Ok. I will verify the adjustment procedure by you, that I am using.

1) turn engine in cylinder no 1 TDC (crank pulley mark up and lining
with the case seam).

2) check cylinder no 1 both valves and cyl no 2 intake valve

3) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 3 TDC

4) check cylinder no 2 intake valve

5) move to the other side and check cylinder 3 both valves and
cylinder 4 intake valve

6) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 1 TDC

7) check cylinder 4 exhaust valve

8) done

Or am I assuming wrong about the valve timings of cylinders 2 and 4
in cyl 1 and 3 TDC position? Initially I did this assumption because
it is easier to have the crank exactly at TDC position when the mark
is upwards. Cylinder 2 and 4 TDCs are harder to find exactly. Your
description made me think if it really matters at all to be exactly
at TDC and whether the cyl 2 and 4 valves are really fully closed in
cyl 1 and 3 TDC positions.

---
Olli

On Thu, 05 Aug 2010 23:05:12 +0200, Olli Lammi
> wrote:

> P.J.Berg wrote:
>>
>> Another aspect of this is the fact that the valve clearance is given at
>> TDC, which is not the optimal setting.
>> The clearance stated is the minimal. So what you want to do is turn the
>> engine over slightly back and forth with your feeler gauge in there
>> until you find the biggest clearance/slack. And THAT is where you
>> adjust to .10 or .15
>> Repeat this for all eight valves and you'll know you have done the
>> right thing even if it took you an hour or two.
>> This is not a witch tale, pure physics, test drive and you will notice.
>
> Ok. I will verify the adjustment procedure by you, that I am using.
>
> 1) turn engine in cylinder no 1 TDC (crank pulley mark up and lining
> with the case seam).
>
> 2) check cylinder no 1 both valves and cyl no 2 intake valve
>
> 3) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 3 TDC
>
> 4) check cylinder no 2 intake valve
>
> 5) move to the other side and check cylinder 3 both valves and
> cylinder 4 intake valve
>
> 6) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 1 TDC
>
> 7) check cylinder 4 exhaust valve
>
> 8) done
>
> Or am I assuming wrong about the valve timings of cylinders 2 and 4
> in cyl 1 and 3 TDC position? Initially I did this assumption because
> it is easier to have the crank exactly at TDC position when the mark
> is upwards. Cylinder 2 and 4 TDCs are harder to find exactly. Your
> description made me think if it really matters at all to be exactly
> at TDC and whether the cyl 2 and 4 valves are really fully closed in
> cyl 1 and 3 TDC positions.
>
> ---
> Olli

Sorry Olli, a cousin of mine is getting married on Saturday so we have
been out drinking today. Brain is on standby mode and not much more
tonight.

Jørn


--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On 04/08/10 07:48, Jan Andersson wrote:
> Olli Lammi wrote:
>> Hello!

--snippp--

>> 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost
>> the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the
>> vipers in "slow" speed. The wiring diagram does not reveal
>> to me, how actually the speed is controlled. Should I aim
>> at the viper switch in the steering column, wiring or
>> the motor itself to find the problem? Any suggestions?
>>
>> ---
>> Olli
>
>
> lube the shafts that go through the body. friction (corrosion and dirt) may
> be slowing them down.

Definitely. My Ghia got so bad the wipers didn't move at all last spring,
not even without wiper arms or blades.

Other shaft thoroughly rusty and the other wasn't much better, I had to heat
those shafts to almost red hot to get them out of their holes.

Some sanding and water-resistant grease later wipers work like a charm.

P.J.Berg wrote:
>>
>> Ok. I will verify the adjustment procedure by you, that I am using.
>>
>> 1) turn engine in cylinder no 1 TDC (crank pulley mark up and lining
>> with the case seam).
>>
>> 2) check cylinder no 1 both valves and cyl no 2 intake valve
>>
>> 3) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 3 TDC
>>
>> 4) check cylinder no 2 intake valve

Correction: no 2 exhaust valve

>> 5) move to the other side and check cylinder 3 both valves and
>> cylinder 4 intake valve
>>
>> 6) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 1 TDC
>>
>> 7) check cylinder 4 exhaust valve
>>
>> 8) done
>>
>> Or am I assuming wrong about the valve timings of cylinders 2 and 4
>> in cyl 1 and 3 TDC position? Initially I did this assumption because
>> it is easier to have the crank exactly at TDC position when the mark
>> is upwards. Cylinder 2 and 4 TDCs are harder to find exactly. Your
>> description made me think if it really matters at all to be exactly
>> at TDC and whether the cyl 2 and 4 valves are really fully closed in
>> cyl 1 and 3 TDC positions.
>>
>> ---
>> Olli
>
> Sorry Olli, a cousin of mine is getting married on Saturday so we have
> been out drinking today. Brain is on standby mode and not much more
> tonight.

Ooops. The procedure I wrote had a typo. Correction above (phase 4).

---
Olli

Re the .10 in and .15 out. I,ve usually set my valve clearances down to 8
thou with engine dead cold. Too tight you think?. I seem to recall
somewhere that VW dropped it down to 6 thou. Could be wrong ( happens a lot
my wife says)
John

John wrote:
> Re the .10 in and .15 out. I,ve usually set my valve clearances down to 8
> thou with engine dead cold. Too tight you think?. I seem to recall
> somewhere that VW dropped it down to 6 thou. Could be wrong ( happens a lot
> my wife says)
> John
>
>
>


in the days of 1200 the recommendation was 0.10mm but since people were
too lazy to adjust the valves when recommended, the factory changed the
spec to 0.15 to make sure the clearance would always be adequate even
with sporadic or no maintenance.

For the same reason they also eliminated the oil drain plug from the
sump plate, forcing you to open the whole plate (6 little nuts) in order
to drain the oil. People wouldn't bother cleaning the screen or clean
the accumulated gunk from the screen area when they had a convenient
drain plug.

John wrote:

> Re the .10 in and .15 out. I,ve usually set my valve clearances down to 8
> thou with engine dead cold. Too tight you think?. I seem to recall
> somewhere that VW dropped it down to 6 thou. Could be wrong ( happens a lot
> my wife says)

0.20 mm (0.008") was the clearance for engines with long rocker
studs (about 1960 to 1964 from memory). Those long studs
loosened and pulled out over time, and were replaced with short
studs. I doubt that there's more than a handful of engines left
in the world running with long studs.

Back then, I often drove very hard (I was a rally driver), and
ran my VWs with inlet on 0.20 mm and exhaust on 0.30 mm.

On short-stud engines, the recommendation was 0.10 mm (0.004"),
and I ran my inlets on that and exhausts on 0.15 mm (0.006").

The wider clearances now recommended (0.15 mm all round for short
studs) run considerably noisier, which is why they weren't
recommended back when these cars were new.

John

On Aug 3, 2:38*pm, Olli Lammi >
wrote:
> Hello!
> ------
>
> Two questions in one:
>
> 1) I changed the plugs after 12000 km had passed with the old ones
> * * (Bosch W8AC to Bosch W8AC). The number 2 cylinder had a bit
> * * different color in the old plug. (order 1-2-3-4 in the pic below)
>
> * * *http://olammi.iki.fi/olammi/tulpat20100803.jpg
>
> * * Does that colouring and deposit tell the trained eye about some
> * * problem in the number two?


Could it have anything to do with how the carb is jetted?

I use a 130 main jet and 55 idle jet. I think the size of the idle
jet depends on you altitude.

> 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost
> * * the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the
> * * vipers in "slow" speed.

The wipers on my 1973 Beetle were slow too.
After I replaced the main wiring harness, from fuse box to tail
lights, the wipers work like they are supposed to. Check everything
else first though.

Jim Ed wrote:
>
> Could it have anything to do with how the carb is jetted?
>
> I use a 130 main jet and 55 idle jet. I think the size of the idle
> jet depends on you altitude.

I have X130 main jet, g52,5 pilot jet, g45 aux jet and 110Z air
correction jet. They should all be standard.

---
Olli